Best straight to USB, no battery product?

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patkin

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I have 4 ego c upgrade passthroughs (650 and 1000) and pretty much use those exclusively but my backup box contains three of the true mini passthroughs as pictured. They work very well with a 2 amp on a power strip... and it must be 2 amp to get the highest volt output. I don't vape that high anway so if you don't either, its no big deal. The only draw backs are the length of the cord. I got them from two different places and the cords vary... you need to use "contact us" and ask usually... the other is the stability of the cord. I haven't used mine much... just tested... but most people say the wiring breaks within weeks or a couple of months depending on how carefully they're used. Some put duct tape on it to help keep it from moving so much. I'm trying to think of something I can attach other than that. All this said, I much prefer my ego cs as they do essentially the same thing but I can take them away from a power source (portability) and given the wire problem, they last a lot longer. Two of mine, in rotation, are still going strong at 5 months. I paid around $20 each.... divided by 5, that's $4.00 a month... but they're still going strong so it figures less actually. One of my minis was $15.00 and the other two $12.00 each. If the wiring broke at two months, that's $7.50 or $6.00 a month plus inconvenience ordering and using.
 

charmschool

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I'm also looking for a decent VV PT, but I use 1.5 ohm cartridges, and most I've found don't support higher voltage with the LR carts. I've been checking out the Pearl VV from Vaprlife. A little $pendy, but if it works, I'll spring for it. I can't seem to find much in the way of reviews though. The Pearl PT
 

four2109

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Yes, the wear point in the cord will be right at the base of the device. Especially if you park it in a cupholder where you bend it in the same place every time you put it down. It makes sense to reinforce it or find a better place to park it. I wish it had a mini USB connector on the base, but then it would be $25!
 

WillyB

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You can't do that, not without a battery involved anyway. The current output of a computer USB port is only 500 mA. Max. Vaping draws a lot more current than that, even if it is in very short bursts when you push a button. You would be frying out computer USB ports right and left if you tried to vape directly off a computer port without a battery acting as a "current buffer" so to speak.. Is it worth it in order to avoid a battery?
I've been using PTs (not USB battery devices which aren't pass throughs BTW) from day one on a computer, and I've also used the same ports for charging all sorts of devices.

I've never had a atty/carto which would fire with 500mA. Computer ports can and will provide much more then 500mA.
 

Herennow

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Universal Serial Bus - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Some USB devices require more power than is permitted by the specifications for a single port. This is common for external hard and optical disc drives, and generally for devices with motors or lamps. Such devices can use an external power supply, which is allowed by the standard, or use a dual-input USB cable, one input of which is used for power and data transfer, the other solely for power, which makes the device a non-standard USB device. Some USB ports and external hubs can, in practice, supply more power to USB devices than required by the specification but a standard-compliant device may not depend on this.

In addition to limiting the total average power used by the device, the USB specification limits the inrush current (i.e., that used to charge decoupling and filter capacitors) when the device is first connected. Otherwise, connecting a device could cause problems with the host's internal power. USB devices are also required to automatically enter ultra low-power suspend mode when the USB host is suspended. Nevertheless, many USB host interfaces do not cut off the power supply to USB devices when they are suspended.[citation needed]

Some non-standard USB devices use the 5 V power supply without participating in a proper USB network which negotiates power draws with the host interface. These are usually referred to as USB decorations. The typical example is a USB-powered keyboard light; fans, mug coolers and heaters, battery chargers, miniature vacuum cleaners, and even miniature lava lamps are available. In most cases, these items contain no digital circuitry, and thus are not Standard compliant USB devices at all. This can theoretically cause problems with some computers, such as drawing too much current and damaging circuitry; prior to the Battery Charging Specification, the USB specification required that devices connect in a low-power mode (100 mA maximum) and communicate their current requirements to the host, which would then permit the device to switch into high-power mode.

Some devices, when plugged into charging ports, draw even more power (10 watts or 2.1 Amps) than the Battery Charging Specification allows. The iPad and MiFi 2200 are two such devices.[69] Barnes & Noble NOOK devices also require a special charger that runs at 1.9 Amps.[70]
USB Power Delivery specification

In July 2012 the USB Promoters Group announced the finalization of the USB Power Delivery ("PD") specification, an extension that specifies using certified "PD aware" USB cables with standard USB type A/B connectors to deliver up to 100 W of power at 20V. For PD-aware cables with USB-micro B/AB connectors the maximum power supported is up to 60W at 20V, 36W at 12V and 10W at 5V. In all cases, either host-to-device or device-to-host configurations are supported.[71] The intent is to permit uniformly charging laptops, tablets, USB-powered disks and similarly higher power consumer electronics, as a natural extension of existing European and Chinese mobile telephone charging standards.[72]
Powered USB

Powered USB is a proprietary extension that adds four additional pins supplying up to 6 A at either 5 V, 12 V, or 24 V. It is commonly used in point of sale systems to power peripherals such as barcode readers, credit card terminals, and printers
 
Wow... 2.78 amps.

I wonder if that would Fry my Computer USB port. Or make my Wall Wort get Hot?

That's possible! Fortunately, most regulated wall warts are smarter than that and will simply allow the voltage to sag at the output rather than destroy themselves in a spectacular fashion. Unregulated ones generally have voltage sags and spikes depending on load anyway and I try not to use them.

Your USB on your computer, unless extremely modern, shouldn't be used. You could have protection failure and blow the motherboard. Even on extremely new computers, I'd rather blow out a $15 wall wart than a new computer. Wall warts are cheap and I'll toss it with a shrug and a muttered curse.

It's wise, if you're going to use that much wattage/amperage when vaping, to use a 3 amp or better wall wart.

Now if you're using a battery passthrough, the map may change a bit. They draw power from the battery and, if they're smart, cut charging while you're vaping and resume it afterward. Draw on the USB is only what the charging circuitry can handle--on my Volt X2, about 200 mAh and well below the spec.
 

four2109

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WillyB, Do you remember the member that cooked his employers computer by vaping on it. I think it was a desktop. Just not worth the risk to me. It was a couple of years ago.
I read an article the other day about some laptops having different power levels on different ports, but I don't know if that's common, or if they are ever marked differently.
 
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