BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

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Rossum

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I must say after using the dna-40 for a while now I've come to realize two things.

A) it burns through batteries like there's no tomorrow
B) I do see a few benefits over the mech mods in that you have the ability to "fine tune" your vape and find the sweet spot of your liquid. With duals metered at 0.35 I get a great vape at 29W but if I bump it up to 31.5W I get a stellar vape. I guess this ability to find the sweet spot is an arguable benefit. However you sacrifice battery life because at that wattage my batteries drain 20-30% faster at least
Interesting how people's experiences vary. I run feeders exclusively; several mechs, a DNA30 and a DNA40. All of them use 18650s. The 40 is the only one on which I can consistently drain a whole 6ml bottle on a single charge.

Are you running your 40 Temp Limiting mode?
 
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Quigsworth

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got a drill press guys. I believe I need a vice and some bits (naturally) for drilling out attys to convert to bottom feeding. probably some oil to make it easier to drill out as well. I plan on making a trip to home depot after work today. what should I pick up?

tbh, don't use oil to bf an rda. it's not necessary and the taste will linger (rapid tap is the worst) just use an old juice you don't like. typically the smallest bit you'll find in HD is a 1/16" (can be kinda big, depends on the pin)
 

KurrptSenate

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tbh, don't use oil to bf an rda. it's not necessary and the taste will linger (rapid tap is the worst) just use an old juice you don't like. typically the smallest bit you'll find in HD is a 1/16" (can be kinda big, depends on the pin)

lol my wife's grandfather used just that when we did my derringer. I gave it an ultra sonic bath in simple green. I didn't notice any lingering taste but that's my "go to" for machine oil and other things.

nice tip about the juice.

what kind of vice should I get for holding the pin when I drill it out?
 
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Roscoe01

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lol my wife's grandfather used just that when we did my derringer. I gave it an ultra sonic bath in simple green. I didn't notice any lingering taste but that's my "go to" for machine oil and other things.

nice tip about the juice.

what kind of vice should I get for holding the pin when I drill it out?
Here is a trick that I use. clamp a piece of hardwood or lexan to your drill press table and drill a hole in it the size of your pin. Flip your bit upside down and use the blunt end to press your pin into the hole u just drilled. Then swap to the bit you want to drill your pin with. You will have a dead center straight hole every time.[emoji1] I drill most of my attys with 1/16. If m2 screw in bottom I slot the insulator instead.

My 2c.
 
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Quigsworth

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lol my wife's grandfather used just that when we did my derringer. I gave it an ultra sonic bath in simple green. I didn't notice any lingering taste but that's my "go to" for machine oil and other things.

nice tip about the juice.

what kind of vice should I get for holding the pin when I drill it out?

It's usually easiest to drill the vertical hole while the pin is still in the RDA...drill a hole in a block of wood the 510 will just fit in and hold it with your fingers (if you even need to, you're not using a bunch of force here)...for the horizontal hole, put a shallow slot in the same block of wood to stop the pin from rolling around and hold it with a pair of smooth jaw needle nose...how's that for budget bf'ing?
 

KurrptSenate

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Here is a trick that I use. clamp a piece of hardwood or lexan to your drill press table and drill a hole in it the size of your pin. Flip your bit upside down and use the blunt end to press your pin into the hole u just drilled. Then swap to the bit you want to drill your pin with. You will have a dead center straight hole every time.[emoji1] I drill most of my attys with 1/16. If m2 screw in bottom I slot the insulator instead.

My 2c.

sounds awesome. you wouldn't happen to have a picture for reference would you?

tbf, I own 2 drills, a hammer, some screw drivers, and now this drill press lol. her grandfather had 4 of them and hooked me up with this one. i'll be reduced to using this guy on the floor of my cluttered garage.

/note to self: get a clamp
 
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turbocad6

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Thanks for that Turbo, nice work. BTW what's that white stuff around the tacts, looks like filler???

that white is JB weld, but it's there water weld. biggest difference is that the waterweld gives you a bit more working time than the grey stuff. the grey stuff sets up in like 3 or 4 minutes, where this one stays usable for well over 10 minutes, up to 15 minutes even and it sets slower too so once it does start to set up it will get semi firm but still allow you to tweak position a bit as it's a bit more plastic as it's setting up, the grey stuff goes from soft clay to solid stone in a very short time. this stuff is nice to work with but yeah, it's white :)

20150428_105537_zpso9l3voqd.jpg




I must say after using the DNA-40 for a while now I've come to realize two things.

A) it burns through batteries like there's no tomorrow
B) I do see a few benefits over the mech mods in that you have the ability to "fine tune" your vape and find the sweet spot of your liquid. With duals metered at 0.35 I get a great vape at 29W but if I bump it up to 31.5W I get a stellar vape. I guess this ability to find the sweet spot is an arguable benefit. However you sacrifice battery life because at that wattage my batteries drain 20-30% faster at least

yeah, I agree with rossum that the dna40 allows me to burn through more ejuice per charge than anything else, and yeah, being able to fine tune it is a pretty cool thing. especially when now, you don't even need to build to a "target". you could build a set of duals at 1 ohm and they'll vape as good as your .35 build, or even better since you can now have much more surface area at the same power level



Turbo nice brass DT btw on the nuppin, is that your creation?

yeah made that tip orignally for this nuppin

IMG_20150126_013352_zpsdblnsidp.jpg
 

CaptSteve

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Interesting how people's experiences vary. I run feeders exclusively; several mechs, a DNA30 and a DNA40. All of them use 18650s. The 40 is the only one on which I can consistently drain a whole 6ml bottle on a single charge.

Are you running your 40 Temp Limiting mode?

Hey Ross,
No I'm using it in wattage mode simply because I really didn't like nickel and I haven't ordered yet that Ti you use (I'll order now in fact to try it).
I'm using one week old AW IMR's 2200mAh (the new one's) and they drain way faster than what they do on my mechs which I change them out when they reach 3.8-3.7v.
When the batt indicator reaches about 1/3rd I start getting the "Weak Battery" message on the display.
 
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CaptSteve

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got a drill press guys. I believe I need a vice and some bits (naturally) for drilling out attys to convert to bottom feeding. probably some oil to make it easier to drill out as well. I plan on making a trip to home depot after work today. what should I pick up?

I've found that the best way to drill out atty posts is not fixing them under a drill press and attempting to achieve the perfect alignment (almost impossible). Reverse the process and it becomes much easier and more accurate.
Attach the atty post to the drill press chuck and turn it. On the drill press's table attach a chuck and fit the drill bit so it's stationary and lower the atty post to the drill bit. The fact that the post is turning will center the hole perfectly.
Of course you must start by having the two opposing chucks perfectly aligned and you can achieve that by getting a steel plate and attaching it with bolts to your drill press table. Then chuck up on the drill press a drill bit which is the same size as the second chuck's shank and drill the hole. Attach your second chuck to the plate using the hole you drilled (and a lock nut) and now you can achieve pretty much perfect alignment every time effortlessly.

It's called a homemade lathe (on the cheap and it works) :D
 

studiovap

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I've found that the best way to drill out atty posts is not fixing them under a drill press and attempting to achieve the perfect alignment (almost impossible). Reverse the process and it becomes much easier and more accurate.
Attach the atty post to the drill press chuck and turn it. On the drill press's table attach a chuck and fit the drill bit so it's stationary and lower the atty post to the drill bit. The fact that the post is turning will center the hole perfectly.
Of course you must start by having the two opposing chucks perfectly aligned and you can achieve that by getting a steel plate and attaching it with bolts to your drill press table. Then chuck up on the drill press a drill bit which is the same size as the second chuck's shank and drill the hole. Attach your second chuck to the plate using the hole you drilled (and a lock nut) and now you can achieve pretty much perfect alignment every time effortlessly.

It's called a homemade lathe (on the cheap and it works) :D
Yes this is very good advise. Now I have a mini lathe, and one drill bit lasts and lasts, when I was trying to drill out pins by clamping the pin and spinning the drill bit I went through many drill bits and had bits break off in the pins from time to time writing off the pins. With the lathe where the pin is spinning it's a joy drilling pins. Whatever you do remember to keep the pin cool if it's ss otherwise you work harden it and you are screwed, your juice is the perfect lubricant and coolant as when it starts to vaporise you know you have to let it cool and you then keep the ss drillable.
 

turbocad6

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yeah captain that jb waterweld is nice, if you haven't tried it then def do try it. the working time is great. I was able to knead up a ball of it and take my time setting the 3 buttons one at a time and then set up the inner magnet holder, then go back and tweak the buttons to perfectly flush all with just the one mix, yet in about an hour it's hard as a rock and ready to work

yeah, I do the same, drill bit in the lathe chuck and pin in the drill chuck on the tail end of the lathe, even then it's somewhat hit and miss when you start trying to go an inch or more but now with the SS needles I don't need really long bores anymore

I also have a spare chuck that I can clamp into my mill's vice or bolt down to the table in a T slot and can do the same, chuck the bit stationary and then spin the part being drilled in the mill like a reverse lathe

I took a few pics while making the button panel to give some ideas of how to hold down difficult stuff. just clamp a block of wood in the vice, mill the top flat and true and then that can be a great working platform, can even screw directly to it to clamp or hold things. this is where having a nice range in the Z axis really helps though


20150427_194025_zps7ayvze5k.jpg


20150427_194211_zpsy7krymav.jpg
 

CaptSteve

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I've done something similar on my mill too Turbo for milling odd shapes that can't be clamped in the vice. I'm busting my head now how to make a jig to mill curves and arcs but I need to be able to adjust the jig to vary the curves. I'm along the lines of making a plate which pivots around a single point on the mill table and adjusts in length to be able to vary the curve cut.
 

turbocad6

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Hey Ross,
No I'm using it in wattage mode simply because I really didn't like nickel and I haven't ordered yet that Ti you use (I'll order now in fact to try it).
I'm using one week old AW IMR's 2200mAh (the new one's) and they drain way faster than what they do on my mechs which I change them out when they reach 3.8-3.7v.
When the batt indicator reaches about 1/3rd I start getting the "Weak Battery" message on the display.


what's pretty cool to me is now running the dna40 without a display, it's just permanently set to 450deg and ~25 watts. now with this one I don't even need to think when sticking a coil in there, I just twist up a piece of Ni and stick it in there and it vapes perfect, don't know the resistance, don't even care, it vapes great and it's protected from ever getting a dry hit. whatever piece of wire I stick between the posts just vapes right, no display means no tinkering or playing with it, just simply vape it blind and it's still a great vape every time :) that said, I will eventually swap it out for another with a display but honestly I could see just calibrating one and sticking it into a mod blind instead of just a simple mosfet, it's kinda like a mosfet on steroids :)
 

Quigsworth

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what's pretty cool to me is now running the dna40 without a display, it's just permanently set to 450deg and ~25 watts. now with this one I don't even need to think when sticking a coil in there, I just twist up a piece of Ni and stick it in there and it vapes perfect, don't know the resistance, don't even care, it vapes great and it's protected from ever getting a dry hit. whatever piece of wire I stick between the posts just vapes right, no display means no tinkering or playing with it, just simply vape it blind and it's still a great vape every time :) that said, I will eventually swap it out for another with a display but honestly I could see just calibrating one and sticking it into a mod blind instead of just a simple mosfet, it's kinda like a mosfet on steroids :)

Interesting thought, would a big screen 40 work without its screen attached?

It would obviously be the most expensive FET ever...but ya, just have one screen for the calibration many DNA40's
 

turbocad6

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yes, that's what I'm using, a big screen with a damaged plug... if the plug wasn't damaged then the screen can be used just for adjustment and then removed again, the module functions fine without the screen and retains it's programed settings indefinitely.

i'm not a hunt around and adjust up and down kinda guy, I set it and that's it for the most part so I'm not missing the screen all that much tbh. on my brass mod when it was dna20 I never even bothered to make up down button actuators just because didn't even need them, left it pinned at 20 :)
 
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custom-classic

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I've got 3 dna 40's just sitting on my bench. Not really sure what I'm gonna do with 'em..... I imagine I'll stick 'em in something at some point. Loving the mech's right now....

Picked up a tumbler last week. I've had two in there tumblin' for a couple hours. Really liking the results so far.... I think I'll let 'em go overnight and see how they turn out in the morning.

1YCQ391.jpg
 

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