Had to move the 510 and fill with ca. I have to buy linseed oil etc next pay
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BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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Had to move the 510 and fill with ca. I have to buy linseed oil etc next pay
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It's not pretty, but here's my project from this weekend. My first step into squonking.
Internals are the guts of a sigelei 150w, FatDaddy BF 510 and 15ml bottle. Box was built using Lexan Polycarboante. Still working on the lid, but its working great so far. The hobo v3 is an angelcigs clone but it had the BF 510 pin so I threw it on in favor of converting any of my other atties to save time this weekend. It will not last long on there.
Internals are the guts of a sigelei 150w, FatDaddy BF 510 and 15ml bottle. Box was built using Lexan Polycarboante. Still working on the lid, but its working great so far. The hobo v3 is an angelcigs clone but it had the BF 510 pin so I threw it on in favor of converting any of my other atties to save time this weekend. It will not last long on there.
wOW THAT'S ONE HELL OF A HANDFULLIt's not pretty, but here's my project from this weekend. My first step into squonking.
Internals are the guts of a Sigelei 150w, FatDaddy BF 510 and 15ml bottle. Box was built using Lexan Polycarboante. Still working on the lid, but its working great so far. The hobo v3 is an angelcigs clone but it had the BF 510 pin so I threw it on in favor of converting any of my other atties to save time this weekend. It will not last long on there.
good to see you are putting the Sigelei 150w to good use though.
Unless you have yeti sized hands I imagine you will be looking for a smaller more comfortable unit once you fall for the squonk.
I like it --good job you did.
I enjoy the homemade mods people come up with.
Just buying something from a store is nothing special-----but when you build it yourself and it works that's interesting.
I enjoy the homemade mods people come up with.
Just buying something from a store is nothing special-----but when you build it yourself and it works that's interesting.
Had to move the 510 and fill with ca. I have to buy linseed oil etc next pay
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Nice looking mod coming along real well-----nice looking wooden box-------you did a great job.....
Immediately after building this, I realized how bulky it is, but not necessarily too large for me. I made it as small as i could while fitting everything inside of it. In retrospect, I could have used a more square size box (like the Hammer Of God quad parallels), but it was a fun process with what I had laying around and $8 worth of Lexan.wOW THAT'S ONE HELL OF A HANDFULL
good to see you are putting the Sigelei 150w to good use though.
Unless you have yeti sized hands I imagine you will be looking for a smaller more comfortable unit once you fall for the squonk.
I will say that my next squonker will likely be a Reo or something similar now that I know that squonking is quite a bit more enjoyable and easier than dripping. That and I really don't want to spend another 7 hours on and off building a box that may work but not be aesthetically pleasing lol.
I think I've just held onto variable voltage vaping as a means to not worry about having a charger at work or 3 extra batteries on hand. I definitely prefer a warm to hot dense vape, and have grown quite accustomed to my claptons and other artistic coils. To the future though!
I run a heavily wicked tricro 26g nichrome, with 7-8 1.6mm ID wraps through the middle and two lots of two 2mm ID wraps up top, it comes in around 0.65 Ohms heats quick has huge flavour, thick vapor and thumpy throat hit, and runs great on a single cell. Worth a try if you like Claptons but want somthing more snappy and easier on the power.
I didn't get around to swapping out a bad V4 with a V5 this weekend as hoped...turned out the mod was going to fix was just so beat up I decided to strip it of anything worthy and binned it (a long fun summer can have that effect on a high rotation mod
)I did get the chance to connect a bottle and a Derringer to a V5 (the o ring embedded in the plate is a nice touch) and squonked some water (good sign). I couldn't get it to noticably leak but once I install it in one of my crappy mods that will be the real test...another thing I did was check to see if there was any meterable R between the funky brass coupling and the SS post...nothing my fluke could pick up and I even rotated it around while measuring...overall, it's a pretty quality piece (best QC of any FD hardware I've seen and I've got them all)...about the only thing I could see being an issue is if you got a little seepage on the SS center post an the film creating R, first thing I thought was apply some pressure with some needle nose to put the coupling holes slightly out of round and grind it on the center post...but I'll see
One good thing was the embedded o ring is well inside the outer edge of the 22mm plate...as I tend to sink the plate into the top deck material to keep things flush I'll have to turn it down a bit...I'll get to keep the deck o ring.
I like this
White Silicone Rubber Tubing, Food Grade: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Credit goes to Turbo
I use silicone tubing like that and I love it, but I use one with 1/16" ID, 3/16" OD with a 1/16th wall. I like the 1/16th ID because it fits on the fatdaddy needle pins well, easy on and off but still tight enough for no leaks and it stretches enough to fit most anything else too, I also have clear pvc in the same size and it works fine too but I like the silicone better
silicone: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOWGDK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01
high purity pvc: Tygon 2275 High Purity PVC Tubing, Clear: Industrial Plastic Tubing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
studio, this is what I was talking about with using cutters on wood
as you can see in the pic if you plunge into the side of a block you're risking pulling out wood from the back of the bit, depending on the direction of the grain, if you then run the bit in the direction of the pull out your going to def have problems, to level a block I start at a corner and then run all around the outer perimeter with the push in part of the bit as the leading edge.
I meant to show more and explain more but wanted to at least get this basic idea here to see what I mean. on metal most milling is done with the "pushing out" part of the bit as the leading edge. using the "pushing in" part of the bit as the leading edge with metal is called climb milling and can cause a lot of chatter problems, backlash chattering and vibrations because the bit is constantly trying to climb out of the work and your forcing chips into the work instead of out evacuating the chips easier, it's mostly used for only very light finish cuts on metal, but wood is kinda the opposite, you want the bit trying to climb out, because that will be pushing the wood into itself instead of trying to tear it out. when working with wood you should always be conscious of the grain direction and the bit direction and try to climb mill as much as practical to avoid pullout
silicone: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOWGDK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01
high purity pvc: Tygon 2275 High Purity PVC Tubing, Clear: Industrial Plastic Tubing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
studio, this is what I was talking about with using cutters on wood
as you can see in the pic if you plunge into the side of a block you're risking pulling out wood from the back of the bit, depending on the direction of the grain, if you then run the bit in the direction of the pull out your going to def have problems, to level a block I start at a corner and then run all around the outer perimeter with the push in part of the bit as the leading edge.
I meant to show more and explain more but wanted to at least get this basic idea here to see what I mean. on metal most milling is done with the "pushing out" part of the bit as the leading edge. using the "pushing in" part of the bit as the leading edge with metal is called climb milling and can cause a lot of chatter problems, backlash chattering and vibrations because the bit is constantly trying to climb out of the work and your forcing chips into the work instead of out evacuating the chips easier, it's mostly used for only very light finish cuts on metal, but wood is kinda the opposite, you want the bit trying to climb out, because that will be pushing the wood into itself instead of trying to tear it out. when working with wood you should always be conscious of the grain direction and the bit direction and try to climb mill as much as practical to avoid pullout
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Thanks for the tubing links...
If I can just add one more thing to Turbo's climbing vs standard milling on wood. Studio, you mentioned getting a facing tool...given the typical size of stock we use, a facing tool has the ability to shave an entire face in one pass...this will give a good example of what Turbo is talking about...one edge will look good (the edge the cutter is driving into) and the oposing edge will be ripped apart as the cutter exits. On anything with a grain (it'll even make a mess of polycarb) always face with a 50/50 pass. Hard to explain in writing but play with some scrap...it becomes 2nd nature pretty quick...one of the reasons why I've yet to find a real need for a facing bit, and just use my 1" 6 flute...keeps me out of trouble.
If I can just add one more thing to Turbo's climbing vs standard milling on wood. Studio, you mentioned getting a facing tool...given the typical size of stock we use, a facing tool has the ability to shave an entire face in one pass...this will give a good example of what Turbo is talking about...one edge will look good (the edge the cutter is driving into) and the oposing edge will be ripped apart as the cutter exits. On anything with a grain (it'll even make a mess of polycarb) always face with a 50/50 pass. Hard to explain in writing but play with some scrap...it becomes 2nd nature pretty quick...one of the reasons why I've yet to find a real need for a facing bit, and just use my 1" 6 flute...keeps me out of trouble.
This is so cool-----what a great idea---so many ways to configure----great thinking............I love this stuff !!.............
Thanks trucker. Fun to do something with all the bits and pieces laying around. Cruddy clone nemesis, failed attempt at drilling a center pin atty base, ego adapter, FD 510. Tons of tropical hardwood scraps.
Trying to decide if I like regulated squonking.
Now I can squonk on this.
Or this
Or even this.
that is really great!, you could use a ignition for a side by side
Yes that's pretty much where I got the idea from. Just have to flop things around a little.that is really great!, you could use a ignition for a side by side
Amember me?
Actually a top feeder, but squonking is squonking.
Actually a top feeder, but squonking is squonking.
Nice Crocks!
For size
I know. Everyone has built a hammond squonker. Exciting for me though
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