BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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I had the same issue with a v4.It drove me nuts for over a week trying to figure out where my leak was coming from.For several days,i thought it was my tubing leaking,so i would pull it and replace it,pull it again and glue it to the metal tube,etc.,and get a leak again,i finally realized it is the connector itself leaking,even with an o-ring it still leaks.I haven't tried a v5 yet,but not sure i want to waste any more money to take another chance.
Is that "Squonk-assist???".
As in - it squonks if you squeeze the metal bars by the bottle?
If so - genius. If not, I hereby patent the concept.
As in - it squonks if you squeeze the metal bars by the bottle?
If so - genius. If not, I hereby patent the concept.
I have the v4 and the v5 coming. On his FB he claims that orders after 9/9 should be fine, and says to send defects back to him. I'll start with the v5 and cross my fingers.
I'm about finished with the shaping. It's not a skinny "mini" but I want this to be a little tank so my friend doesn't feel the need to baby it. And it holds 9ml, so with a spare 18500, it should offer a relatively compact all day setup. I still need to attach the squonkers, make the internals, and then I can finish it. Going to try an oil product this time
Replace the o-ring that comes with the 510 with a 2mm ID o-ring, it doesn't fix it all the way, but it helps alot
I've done it on a fire button once but it was supplemental. I even have some cylinder magnets that are diameter magnetized so two together actually act like a hinge, although with limited travel. The problem though is that it's not really a secure connection. If the mod was dropped, the bars would go flying. But I do like to look at magnets for different uses...they're very handy.
Thank you for the suggestion
the delrin seems to be the biggest problem. Well that sucks, I was hoping since V's using it, it was okay.
I guess you gotta give FD props for trying, since no one else seems to be. Or not, idk
Is that "Squonk-assist???".
As in - it squonks if you squeeze the metal bars by the bottle?
If so - genius. If not, I hereby patent the concept.
Cool,thanks for the tip.I'll have to give it a try eventually when i get a new chip for that mod.The juice leaked down and got onto the chip and now it constantly auto fires,so it isn't getting any use right now haha.
i think vaughan mods the connector somehow, so they are not standard v4?
No Doffy, standard FDV V4 with the FDV BF tube, no mod to it
The FDV classic with a drilled 6 screw is still the best BF option IMHO, using it for a year & a half and no leaks.
and super easy to wire the positive using a wire soldered to a #6 brass nut, and the threads help seal the tube snuggly
and super easy to wire the positive using a wire soldered to a #6 brass nut, and the threads help seal the tube snuggly
I'm inclined to agree, the Classic is a rock solid connection (by virtue of it's threaded/manual height adjustment) but I've noticed, and this may be just my luck of the draw, if you try to use an RDA with a shortish 510, the thick deck on the Classic and then that bevel before the threads start you tend to get very few turns before the RDA bottoms out. That may be a product of it's "retrofit" design, who knows..
I've had good success chucking the Classic's body in the lathe (drill/file also works) and taking some of the deck thickness off...then if need be, take some of the height off the nylon bushing (FD went a little crazy on that)
The only other issue I have with the Classics is they're not the shortest of profiles...I like to build mods only slightly taller than an 18650, that can be tough with the Classics length and still use a Vmod 10ml....again, if FD really wanted to make the bf modders happy, offer the V4 (or V5 with no ceramic) with a longer threaded body tube (that we could trim to length if need be) with a Peek version of the Classic plug already threaded to #6-32...hell, we'll get or make our own vented screws.
Bob, you mention swapping out the o rings with oversize and that works (but you sometimes have to help the auto adjust, it no longer "floats" as good) but in the stock condition...watch the connector on any of FD's sprung floating pin 510's while you press the bottle to squonk...there's a lot of lateral stressing on the center pin/o rings that makes them leak. I agree with River...I'm not sure it's even fair to slam FD on that, they were designed for tank/dripper use after all, I'm not sure anything would prevent leaking over time, It's like using a drillpress as a mill, they weren't built to be mechanically stressed side to side like that.
When I was working with George (GDeal) on the Peko/GDNA, we talked with Dennis and suggested a design for him to pursue, even sent him a CAD, guess he didn't like it
I hear you on the tube stress, modders using the V4 should keep in mind that the more snug the squonk bottle fits, the lesser the stress
I hear you on the tube stress, modders using the V4 should keep in mind that the more snug the squonk bottle fits, the lesser the stress
You said it...I'm running a V3 and a V4 in both of my Pdib clones where the Vmod 10's "just" slide into a 3/4" hole (they're a touch thicker than the Reo 6's)...those bottles don't move (in fact I have to use needle nose to get them out)...no issues...but in my Grand conversions where the stress is front to back...not good.
For what ever reason it seems that Dennis doesn't want to commit to making a "specific to bf" 510 (opposed to just retro parts for a sealed unit), a year ago one could argue it' was a demand thing but now?
For what ever reason it seems that Dennis doesn't want to commit to making a "specific to bf" 510 (opposed to just retro parts for a sealed unit), a year ago one could argue it' was a demand thing but now?
Interesting, wonder what he's going to use as a 510?
Mold threaded ceramics? that could go badly, super rigid, no conformity...
I wish I would've noticed these before (or are they a new add?) http://fatdaddyvapes.com/eBay/Photos/V4BFSwatch.jpg
Now those may be a good 510...
That's the one i used,and it started leaking within 2 days of installing it.I may have a bad o-ring,i need to check it,but i'm pretty sure it's the connector itself leaking.
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