Brand new Zmax and problems.

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shatner

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Absolutely ridiculous!

I just got my Zmax today. Put some bats in and set it for 4.2V. Well, every time I go to vape it says that it's only giving 3.7 volts. ...?

Also, when I go to menu 7(voltage power), I can select "PO" or "UO". But after the that it gives me no chance to change the power. It just resets itself to 3.6V.

I'm ....ing ......, to say the least.

I'm following the directions 'to a T' and it's just not working how it's supposed to according to the very much to be desired instruction manual.

Really wish I would have bought a Provari right about now. Pathetic.
 

billherbst

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Just a small note. When the display reads "PO" that means POwer Regulation (watts). When it reads what you interpret as "UO," it actually means "VO" for VOltage Regulation. The problem with many of these displays is that they're very low-resolution. The closest they can get to a V looks like a U. Same with atty/carto resistance. What appears to be an "A" is actually a low-res way of displaying the Omega symbol for Ohms.

Sorry to read that your ZMax is apparently a dud.
 

BlueSnake

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Absolutely ridiculous!

I just got my Zmax today. Put some bats in and set it for 4.2V. Well, every time I go to vape it says that it's only giving 3.7 volts. ...?

Also, when I go to menu 7(voltage power), I can select "PO" or "UO". But after the that it gives me no chance to change the power. It just resets itself to 3.6V.

I'm ....ing ......, to say the least.

I'm following the directions 'to a T' and it's just not working how it's supposed to according to the very much to be desired instruction manual.

Really wish I would have bought a Provari right about now. Pathetic.

What make of batteries are you using and are they fully charged?

My Vmax acts wonky with generic batteries. If I use AW or Efest I have no problems.
 

shatner

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Did you check battery voltage with a meter?

They're charging now. But on the Zmax it say's they're at 3.8V

Just a small note. When the display reads "PO" that means POwer Regulation (watts). When it reads what you interpret as "UO," it actually means "VO" for VOltage Regulation. The problem with many of these displays is that they're very low-resolution. The closest they can get to a V looks like a U. Same with atty/carto resistance. What appears to be an "A" is actually a low-res way of displaying the Omega symbol for Ohms.

Sorry to read that your ZMax is apparently a dud.

I get that. But at the "V up" menu (7) it only goes to "PO" and "VO". It doesnt' give me a chance to change the power, just goes back to the standby screen. It SHOULD be allowing me to change the Wattage at that stage, according to the instructions. But it doesn't. I've tried waiting for it to allow me and ALSO holding the button down. It just goes back to 'standby' and fires the atty.
 

shatner

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Once set to Power or Voltage, let it go into standby. Then press the button until the first menu shows up. That's where you can increase, the second menu is decrease. #7 is to switch from one to the other, not actually set the level.

Thanks. It's working today, but I haven't done anything different. Weird. I have a Povari on order, also. Best of both worlds. :)
 

shatner

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AND another issue. Chinese manufacturing at it's best. No matter what (and I've followed the incredibly poor written instructions), it only shows the Ohms when firing. I've gone to 'menu 5' and selected "V", but it only shows the damn Ohms when I fire the device. ...? I don't GAF about knowing the atty Ohm when firing. If I wanted to know that, I'd check in the menu. AGHHHHH! I'm regretting this purchase.

Any insight or should I send the POS back?
 

Modnar

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AND another issue. Chinese manufacturing at it's best. No matter what (and I've followed the incredibly poor written instructions), it only shows the Ohms when firing. I've gone to 'menu 5' and selected "V", but it only shows the damn Ohms when I fire the device. ...? I don't GAF about knowing the atty Ohm when firing. If I wanted to know that, I'd check in the menu. AGHHHHH! I'm regretting this purchase.

Any insight or should I send the POS back?

When you go to the 5th menu point, you should be able to choose between "do", "du" and "dA" (dA shows the ohm of the atty when pressing the fire button... If you want to see the wattage you should select "do")
 

mnementh666

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No offense, but it sounds like you aren't fully understanding the menu system. I didn't receive an owner's manual, having bought a different version of the Z, so I can't speak about the clarity of the manual. It might be a good idea to look into the settings available, and what means what.
Madvapes has one up as a pdf that is likely the same as what you have, but maybe not.
I can give you the link if you'd like.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2
 

XtianApi

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What make of batteries are you using and are they fully charged?

My Vmax acts wonky with generic batteries. If I use AW or Efest I have no problems.

I feel better after reading your post. I bought some super cheap knock off ultrafires for less than a dollar a piece. I have an AW IMR 18650 but thought, what they hell. One of these cheap batteries lasts all day, not bad. However, I noticed that when I hold down the button, sometimes it will not fire for like two seconds, then stop again, then start again, all while holding down the button. I am pretty sure it is not the button, because of other things I have tried. I didn't think about the batteries until reading your post. Does this sound like your experience with them?
 

Marvin & Sennie

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I am having almost the exact same issue. It fires SOMETIMES with a full charge battery. HOWEVER I don't know the difference between AW and NCM batteries. I ordered AW and they haven't come yet so we ordered some others and they are NCM 18650 3.7V batteries @$7.95 each. Can that be what the problem is? UGH... that's a LOT of money for something that works only sometimes.
 

XtianApi

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I am having almost the exact same issue. It fires SOMETIMES with a full charge battery. HOWEVER I don't know the difference between AW and NCM batteries. I ordered AW and they haven't come yet so we ordered some others and they are NCM 18650 3.7V batteries @$7.95 each. Can that be what the problem is? UGH... that's a LOT of money for something that works only sometimes.
Hello. I know this can all be confusing. AW, is a brand of battery, not a type of battery. NCM is the material a battery is made out of. There are good NCMs and bad ones, depending on brand. AW is an excellent brand, and it is basically what I use in all my mods and flashlights. I do have a few Panasonic, and they are great as well and I tried cheap Chinese batteries, for fun. You can't go wrong with AW batteries. I am sure someone will tell me different, because it is a hot topic, but more people than not, like AW batteries. They are also one of the most honest about what capacity a battery is. In a Zmax, I found that protected batteries do not fit, without sanding out the end cap. So, I use AW IMR 18650 2000 mah batteries. The "AW" is the brand, the "IMR" is the material it is made out of, manganese, "18650" is the size, and "2000 mah" is the capacity, meaning how long it will run before needing a recharge. These IMR batteries can provide power to the device quicker than many other batteries. IMRs are recommended for the Zmax, from what I remember. Without them, if you use many other types, you will get mis fires. The device will fire, then stop, then start, etc. Sometimes it will go into the menu, with only one press, sometimes when you change it to power mode, it will go back to voltage. It acts crazy. This does not damage the device, it is just a pain. Also, if a battery is discharged down to 3.5 volts, the first menu will be dim, then get bright again when you click. I thought my Zmax was screwed up, but when I put an AW IMR 18650 in, everything works great. I don't know what brand you bought of the NCM, but check it out before you use it. AW brand batts give me the piece of mind I need, so it is worth the extra money to me. IMR batteries are not protected, but the Zmax is, and it will cut off before the battery gets too low. IMRs are made from a safer material, so they will not vent a huge flame, if something bad happens. Don't use IMRs in devices that don't have protection. There is more to know, of course, so just ask the forum, because most people here have more knowledge than I do. What brand are the NCM batteries. Also, be careful buying AWs, get them from a reputable dealer, because there are counterfeits out there. I know right, fake batteries.
 

XtianApi

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I feel for you. I've been through the hard knocks of Chinese mods. Now that I own a Provari and a Buzz Pro, it's a great world of vaping for me. I'm glad you have a Provari on its way. That device will give you big smiles! That is a promise :)

Can I ask you a question about your buzz pro on this thread? I have a buzz pro, and I was using IMR AW 16340s because apparently the buzz pro won't let them over discharge. Well, it did. I had a brand new, fully charge pair in there, vaped it for two days, got great battery life, but when they died, I took them out and tested them, and one of them was at 2.25 VOLTS!! and the other was at 2.5. I put them on the charger, in a safe place, where they could vent if they wanted. I charged them for three seconds then took them off. They read 3.3 volts, so they immediately shot up. Then, I decided to charge them for ten minutes. They got warm, but not hot. I don't remember them getting warm at all on the first charge. So, I may consider these batteries destroyed. What do you think, does your buzz pro protect your batteries from over discharge? I am in contact with Bovinia (spelling?) at not cigs.com
 
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