By Leo : Attys, mods, Drip-tips, tanks [CLOSED}

[dems86]

Premade NR-R-NR wires used to be easier to find, but since not as many attys require it anymore I think many places stopped carrying it.

I know there are still a few vendors who carry just the premade wire though, I remember seeing not too long ago

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Card Carrying Member/Co-Founder

 

[tmcase]

We don't have just premade wires in stock. We only have cups with premade coils inside.

Oh, ok, thanks.

 

[nebulis]

Consider the one I suggested: 1,7 Ohm . I don't really trust their details (0,2 mm = 32 gauge, res or nores part?) but I use these and they work.
I prefer 2,0 ohm but with somewhat less wattage the end result is the same. They also don't have this black oxidation substance on the res part, everything nice and clean.

The 2 Ohm ones work as well. You don't have to use the pre-made coiling, de-coil/straighten it and make your own diameter.

 

[petemoss]

The premade R-NR wire that's black in the middle is actually nichrome. fasttech carries those, Stormy's too. They feel a little stiffer and have less ohms per inch compared to Kanthal. I like to flame the nichrome wires and that removes the funny taste but some people (like Busardo) still claim they can taste the nichrome.

 

[nebulis]

The premade R-NR wire that's black in the middle is actually nichrome. fasttech carries those, Stormy's too. They feel a little stiffer and have less ohms per inch compared to Kanthal.

Yes, this black stuff makes it stiffer.
But "native" Ni-Chrom ist not really darker than Kanthal (I have them both at home), in any case not that dark and unglossy. The 0,17 Ohm one, the one they call "Authentic Kanthal Nichrome", is also NiChr but it does not have this dark stuff on it.

 

[archimede]

There are titanium ready wires at esmokeguru which i use for my ithaka and penelope. They are at 0.5, 1.0 and 1.5 ohms. The performance is much better than NiCr ready wires. A little pricey but worth i think.

 

[tmcase]

Hmm...I've never tried titanium. Might be worth a try. Thanks.

I'm not much of a nicrome fan but have some that doesn't taste funny.

 

[nebulis]

Spring cleaning for 2 Slim Tanks, after 5 months. 5 months not without cleaning, I do clean them every other day, but without taking out all the o-rings.
Now it was time, because one of the ladies was slightly incontinent.

Here they are, shiny clean - there was not much to clean anyway, with my minimum flavour policy:

I think only two of the o-rings need to be replaced and wanted to ask you about it: do you tend to routinely replace all on
Big Cleaning Day? - The two bottom ones are the incontinency suspects:

 

[nebulis]

Your ultimate trick please, how to get the bottom back on the tube or the tube back into the bottom.

It is as if the o-ring or the tank or whatever simply grew bigger . O-ring into the fridge??

 

[Billie-cig]

Your ultimate trick please, how to get the bottom back on the tube or the tube back into the bottom.

It is as if the o-ring or the tank or whatever simply grew bigger . O-ring into the fridge??

You can put liquid on them to make them slide easier. The tubes don't have a perfect diameter unfortunately so they might need a bit more force to get in place some times
You can also sand the o ring a bit on the outside or try to put the tube upside down.
Pic for example

 

[stanleybb50]

So just a report back on my Calix usage:

I've been Rollin with a:

-2.4mm micro coil
-28g,
-7 wraps?
-1.6 ohm
-koh Gen do cotton with the sides removed and packed pretty tight in there
-KF4 drip tip
-indirect feed
-only opening like 135 degrees to start on the full tank and then quickly go down to around 90 degrees after I reach like 75% tank.
-Dropped the watts down to at around 10 with a boost of 2 on a Provari P3.
-Nicoticket Wakonda.

Anyway this has been a more reliable and consistent vape than I've personally ever experienced. Outstanding flavor as well. Even cloud production with my MTL hits are impressive. Especially considering 10 watt puffs.

Still excited for the future tank options and potential p3 base!


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[nebulis]

Thank you billie. As to force, I did my best

View attachment 458658

Maybe the rings do get a bit thicker/bigger when used.
I took my last new one for one of the tanks but did not have any more for the second. So I applied some more brutal force for the second but it ruined the o-rings (and my hand ).

Lesson learned. New sleek o-rings or old fat o-rings and sandpaper ...

Let's wait for some news on byleo.eu. I need new o-rings, who knows, maybe as a side-dish?

 

[Billie-cig]

Thank you billie. As to force, I did my best

View attachment 458658

Maybe the rings do get a bit thicker/bigger when used.
I took my last new one for one of the tanks but did not have any more for the second. So I applied some more brutal force for the second but it ruined the o-rings (and my hand ).

Lesson learned. New sleek o-rings or old fat o-rings and sandpaper ...

Let's wait for some news on byleo.eu. I need new o-rings, who knows, maybe as a side-dish?

Sure thing!
That's excessive force
You should first put the top cap before putting the bottom on, or use a paper towel so you don't hurt yourself

 

[stanleybb50]

So just a report back on my Calix usage:

I've been Rollin with a:

-2.4mm micro coil
-28g,
-7 wraps?
-1.6 ohm
-koh Gen do cotton with the sides removed and packed pretty tight in there
-KF4 drip tip
-indirect feed
-only opening like 135 degrees to start on the full tank and then quickly go down to around 90 degrees after I reach like 75% tank.
-Dropped the watts down to at around 10 with a boost of 2 on a Provari P3.
-Nicoticket Wakonda.

Anyway this has been a more reliable and consistent vape than I've personally ever experienced. Outstanding flavor as well. Even cloud production with my MTL hits are impressive. Especially considering 10 watt puffs.

Still excited for the future tank options and potential p3 base!


-Sent via Tapatalk

I just threw the stock tip back on though and I gotta say, the design sure does look good.

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[thewomenfolk]

I've never broken a cup in over a year and only have one problem with the Sofia. When trying to get the bottom metal base pin up into that tiny hole in the bottom of the ceramic cup it just usually doesn't want to happen. First, the wire inside that tiny bottom ceramic piece obstructs the hole, so getting the pin in there is difficult, and at the same time, lining up the two parts to go together is just difficult because the pin is not stationary. As for the obstruction with having the wire on the side of the cup, that makes it even more difficult to get the cup into the base. I suppose I could widen the base at the threads or file down the cup a little? Anyhow, it doesn't present the problem that getting the bottom pieces together does.

As for putting that one little wire into that bottom cup hole, I just use the Philips end of the tiny China screwdriver. That's not a problem.

Recently I've been using a very small round file to spin round and round in that tiny bottom piece of the cup, to widen it just a bit so the pin can not be so obstructed going into it. I do believe this helps with getting that pin in place.

With all that said, building the Sofia is certainly doable and worth the effort as you all know!

 

[stanleybb50]

Annnnd back to the KF4 tip! Haha

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[qorax]

I just threw the stock tip back on though and I gotta say, the design sure does look good.

-Sent via Tapatalk

I just love the stock driptip & AFC adapter combo of the LiX ~ they look soooooo cool

 

[thewomenfolk]

I can't find premade wires (nr-r-nr), only ceramic cups with silica and spools of resistant wire and spools of non resistant wire. Help!

tmcase - you can get the NR-R-NR at FT at the link below (these are 1.8 ohms but you can also get the 1.5 ohms as well). Click on the down arrow above the 'Add to cart' button and be sure to get the "tightly coiled" ones (unless you want the loosely coiled ones). They're dirt cheap and I've been using them for over a year with no problems at all on the Sofia.

$2.05 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 30*30mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[tmcase]

tmcase - you can get the NR-R-NR at FT at the link below (these are 1.8 ohms but you can also get the 1.5 ohms as well). Click on the down arrow above the 'Add to cart' button and be sure to get the "tightly coiled" ones (unless you want the loosely coiled ones). They're dirt cheap and I've been using them for over a year with no problems at all on the Sofia.

$2.05 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 30*30mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Thanks twf. I'll add them to my next FT shopping spree.

 

[petemoss]

tmcase - you can get the NR-R-NR at FT at the link below (these are 1.8 ohms but you can also get the 1.5 ohms as well). Click on the down arrow above the 'Add to cart' button and be sure to get the "tightly coiled" ones (unless you want the loosely coiled ones). They're dirt cheap and I've been using them for over a year with no problems at all on the Sofia.

$2.05 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 30*30mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Wouldn't it be better to buy the plain uncoiled wires and wrap it yourself? I've always wrapped on a 1/16" drill bit and found that a smaller diameter coil gives much better air flow. Even a 0.5mm decrease in coil diameter makes a noticeable difference in airflow.