By Leo : Attys, mods, Drip-tips, tanks [CLOSED}

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Billie-cig

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Alright I've got a problem. The glass section was broken on my Calix this weekend and I'm having trouble removing the remaining bottom steel portion of the glass tank from the base. Does anyone have a recommendation for getting this off? I can't grip it with pliers and there is still bits of glass on the base...I actually just received the steel tank so I have a replacement but cannot seem to get the bottom steel part of the tank off!!

You can use paper towels to grip
Thanks for all the input folks but no luck yet. It very difficult to get a good grip on that tiny ring
We made a video to help. It might take some time for Youtube to process it :)
 

nuvole

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After several attempt, finally something that works for Calix.
3 x AWG 32 twisted, 2mm diameter about 7 turn.

calix_3x32_1.2_03.jpg
 

qorax

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After several attempt, finally something that works for Calix.
3 x AWG 32 twisted, 2mm diameter about 7 turn.

calix_3x32_1.2_03.jpg

Whaaaat? The Calix is my favorite 22mm atty today. Everything works fine on it. But yes, that setup of yours is sleek ;)
 

Billie-cig

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After several attempt, finally something that works for Calix.
3 x AWG 32 twisted, 2mm diameter about 7 turn.

calix_3x32_1.2_03.jpg
Please check the video more closely.
Its optimal to run the wire through the sides of the cap, not the top. This way the temperature drops, you don't have this much of a distance for the wire to go without wick and there are no spots for a short.
Also, don't make a complete loop on the wire that connects two spots together. That can create a short too. :)
 

Billie-cig

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Can someone help me with the difference between the standard Apollo and the XTR? Is it just the air control?
The side air holes of the XTR are a lot bigger and the chamber is bigger as well. It is made for cloud chasing. Only the upper body changes between the Apollo RDA and the XTR :)
 

Billie-cig

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But now, Hairy Hand rulez again! :thumbs:

Billie, perfect customer service, that video, I am very impressed.
Hope it helps the poor broken glass victim.
Thank you!
I certainly hope it helps. He actually put on a quartz tube on a base and thightened it until the tube broke. Hairy handz didn't get injured though :D
 

qorax

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Here are some pics with the correct way to build in the SS cup. Forgive the condition of the cup, as it is my own and its the prototype. I left the wires at the screws a bit longer to show where they finish. I hope it helps :)
2015-05-27%2019.24.31.jpg

Bill, I'm sorry to be differing here. This system of attaching the legs work well for a spaced coil (I'm doing the same on my Apollo with a Ni200 build. Pics in my Apollo thread), but for a microcoil it is wiser to move the coil legs over the terminal walls (like I did in my Calix video).

That ensures a "shorter leg", b'coz you place the coil angular and just about the minimum excess wire is left out to be trapped in the terminal screws. And my Calix is performing superbly since it's receipt & build :)
 

Billie-cig

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Bill, I'm sorry to be differing here. This system of attaching the legs work well for a spaced coil (I'm doing the same on my Apollo with a Ni200 build. Pics in my Apollo thread), but for a microcoil it is wiser to move the coil legs over the terminal walls (like I did in my Calix video).

That ensures a "shorter leg", b'coz you place the coil angular and just about the minimum excess wire is left out to be trapped in the terminal screws. And my Calix is performing superbly since it's receipt & build :)
That is just the fullproof way to get the more flavor and the safest builds. If the portions that are touching the poles are not tight in place, even a bit of liquid that can go through between the pole and the wire during the process of vaporization or a very small movement can create a loss in conductivity or a short.
I am not saying it is not plausable, but it is better to have them tight in place. Or else it is like driving a car with the battery poles unthreaded and the wires just positioned on the poles. It is not immposible, just not recommended. Or like vaping with a mechanical mod without having threaded all the pieces tightly :)
The other reason is that even the tails of the coil (especially in micro coils) can be saturated and regulated by the wick which in this case stays on top of the tails, right until they get to the screws.
Again, I am not saying you can't do it with the wires from the top. It will just need constant attention, knowledge and we always recommend the more fullproof way, to minimize problems :)
 

Krisma

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Billie

I am having a mental blank need need some help.

I have just put one of my anyvape tanks on my Mecha head and I am not getting enough air flow. It normally gets it air from holes in the threads and channels in the base of the tanks no different to a carto tank or the Sophia. I vaguely remember a trick mentioned to fix this but I can't find it again. The trick might have been to get bottom airflow ?

At the moment it works because I have left it loose but the wobble is a bit annoying. Any thoughts.
 

Billie-cig

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The ΣΟΦΙΑ has a center hole on the bottom, so it takes air from the Mecha. But as I saw on the reviews, the specific device doesn't take air from below, just from the holes on the threads of the 510 connector (I might be mistaken, that's how it seems on videos). But,it should get air from the sides, since it has channels. I will get one tomorrow, put it on the Mecha and let you know :)
 

Krisma

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The ΣΟΦΙΑ has a center hole on the bottom, so it takes air from the Mecha. But as I saw on the reviews, the specific device doesn't take air from below, just from the holes on the threads of the 510 connector (I might be mistaken, that's how it seems on videos). But,it should get air from the sides, since it has channels. I will get one tomorrow, put it on the Mecha and let you know :)

Thank you. I will have a play this afternoon and see if I can fix it as well. It looks so cute together

e3677883f90aa54d5d543341212fb891.jpg
 
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