Calix v2

[AshF83]

The top oring of the pin (the one closer to the SS cup) should not go completely in the center hole of the base. It should sit on the inner grove on the center of the base like a cushion (also used for electric insulation). If you changed the o ring with one of the orings provided as an accessory, make sure you didn't put on the one that goes in the bottom of the pin or vice versa. The smaller one goes on the bottom of the pin.
Its highly likely that the liquid doesn't come from the side of the SS cup, but from the center air hole of the cup. Overfeeding and very low positioning of the coil can cause that.
If it appears that the o ring is mangled, let us know and we will change your base.
When machining finishes on the base, the hole where the pin goes in is sharp so it can mangle the o rings, so we smoothen out the edge on that corner by hand. We didn't notice the problem for the first few days, so some bases got out without the last proccess. It's a very simple fix, that can be done with a drill bit or a Philips screwdriver (with the correct diameter of course). Just place the screwdriver/drill bit in the hole, so the angled sides come in contact with the corner (where the base meets the hole) and twist it a few times both ways. We use a 6mm drill bit for steel. I am just mentioning the tip because I hear " can I fix it by myself?" all the time when any problem arises and it's exciting! We can change the base none the less

Many thanks for getting back to us @Billie-cig.

I don't have a spare o-ring left (I've already swapped it for the spare) and don't have the delicate fingers to drill into the unit. Can I get this to you good folks to work your magic?

On a side note, I am also experiencing an issue with the posts in that they move. No matter how much I tighten it, I notice a little bit of movement after I screw it down - not sure if this is linked at all... I have not experienced any such problems with the V1 which is working like champ. Flavour is always A1 mega.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

[Billie-cig]

Many thanks for getting back to us @Billie-cig.

I don't have a spare o-ring left (I've already swapped it for the spare) and don't have the delicate fingers to drill into the unit. Can I get this to you good folks to work your magic?

On a side note, I am also experiencing an issue with the posts in that they move. No matter how much I tighten it, I notice a little bit of movement after I screw it down - not sure if this is linked at all... I have not experienced any such problems with the V1 which is working like champ. Flavour is always A1 mega.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Of course we can check it out for you. Send us an email so we can work on the details. We will send you a couple of new o rings as well when we return the base. Propably due to rough usage, constant very hot builds or overtightening, the insulators between the posts need changing.We have them as a spare as well. But just to be sure, are you putting the brass spacer/rod between the post and a screwdriver on the side air hole of the pin to tighten it? Because otherwise it won't tighten enough.

 

[newyork13]

Hey anyone have any good pictures of dual coil builds on the Calix?

I've seen lots of pics on the Apollo, and it's the same cup, but the walls of the Calix deck mean I can't make most of them.

Also, the video for dual coils on Calix / Apollo has been banned in the USA because it contains copyrighted music...

UPDATE:

Here's what I tried-

28g Kanthal, 5 wraps each, came to 0.47 ohms...I fired it at 25 watts.

Wicking was difficult and didn't work.
I wicked through the coils, and kept both tails, placing them in the channel the same way I would normally do.

I think I'll re-wick, and keep only one tail, like many dual coils set ups do.

Next I will try Clapton wire (36g Kanthal wrapped around 28g Kanthal), and also I'll try a single coil of 26g Kanthal.

Ya know, I've only built single coil set ups. Looking at your very nice dual pic, I can't even figure out how to wick the damned thing.
Looking forward to hearing about your solution, and any pics showing the wick arrangement. Maybe something I'll want to try at some point.

 

[newyork13]

I have another question.
Soon as I sell or at least post my kfl5, I'd like to get another Calix.
I'm very happy with the draw on the Pico. It's perfect for me.
But, I'd like to get a P3 connector model.
Can the airflow on the Nano be set to be equal to that of the Pico, or will it always be airier because of the side airflow and large airflow hole?

 

[HBcorpse]

Ya know, I've only built single coil set ups. Looking at your very nice dual pic, I can't even figure out how to wick the damned thing.
Looking forward to hearing about your solution, and any pics showing the wick arrangement. Maybe something I'll want to try at some point.

Well, the wicking didn't work, but here is how I did it.
Before I could get the wick in, I had to lift the coils above the walls of the cup, wick it, then lay the coils back down.

Kept both tails of wick, and placed them in the usual spot, in front of the feed holes.

While it worked, it was nice.
Ended up with dry hits.
Trashed it.

May try this again, with less wick.
I suspect keeping both tails choked the liquid feed. If I try again, I'll cut one tail off.

-----------

Now I'm running dual coils again, only rotated 90* from the position of these coils.
Wicking on this new setup goes straight through like a normal single coil.
I used 29g Kanthal, around a 1/16" drill bit (1.5mm).

I'll update here later with pictures.

----------------

Can the airflow on the Nano be set to be equal to that of the Pico, or will it always be airier because of the side airflow and large airflow hole?

The airflow on any v2 Calix base can be dialed down quite a bit, but in my experience, it can't match that of the v1/Pico.
Your mileage may vary.

 

[Billie-cig]

When making dual coils, it is better to put them on the sides (on top) instead of in the SS cup. I don't have a dual coil photo but I have a triple coil and quad coil with the same setup logic.

I will taked a pic of a dual coil as well, so you can better see the positioning. On the Calix, the coils need to be a little more on the center of the SS cup.

 

[HBcorpse]

When making dual coils, it is better to put them on the sides (on top) instead of in the SS cup. I don't have a dual coil photo but I have a triple coil and quad coil with the same setup logic.

I will taked a pic of a dual coil as well, so you can better see the positioning. On the Calix, the coils need to be a little more on the center of the SS cup.

Thank you Billie!

Very interesting, and not what I had imagined at all!

How does the airflow hit these coils, if they are so far away from the pin?

-------------

Here's how I've got mine set up:

I wicked from either side of each coil, and cut the opposite end of the wick off at the edge of the cup.
For the tail I left, I wicked it normally, as if I only had one coil.

With 1.5 turns of juice control, it's keeping up!

This is 29g Kanthal, around a 3/32" drill bit (2.3/2.4mm).
On my Provape Radius, it reads at 0.65 ohms, and I'm running it at 25 watts.

---------

Also, for anyone wondering...
If you have the juice control open at least 1/2 turn, you can get access to your deck without draining your tank.
Just crack the juice flow open, turn your tank upside down, and unscrew the base.
You may need to keep a finger on the drip tip, to keep the chimney from spinning.
But it's working for me!

 

[HBcorpse]

Can I just mention how much fun I'm having trying new builds on my Calix?

This is the most fun I've had with vaping since I built my first coil!

Truly love this device!

In fact, it's really the only atomizer I've been using lately!

The Calix v1/Pico is like an upgrade in quality of vape, when compared to a Kayfun Lite.

The Calix v2 is an upgrade, when compared to the KF4 and KF5!

I currently now own 6 Calix atomizers!

Two v1's
One Pico
Three v2's (P3 x 2 / 510 x 1)

I have two original Pyrex tubes, four full size plexi tubes, three nano size plexi tubes, and now two Cage sleeves (Square and Angled).

I obviously can't get enough Calix!

This is the day I envisioned, when I got my first Calix and realized how much of a platform it would become.

I've sent contact to Steam Tuners to see if they have any plans on some aftermarket accessories for the Calix.

Sure, I would prefer that ByLeo make other stuff, but Steam Tuners does a really good job of re-imagining ways to use great atomizers!

In fact, I don't have a single Kayfun of any model, running without a Steam Tuners accessory!

Good that they're in Greece too!
I think it's safe to say Greece is a big driving force in the vaping community!
Hail Greece!

 

[ToolmanTexas]

@HBcorpse, in your experience, what is your favorite build/setting on the V2 for a tight MTL with best flavor?

And is it your opinion that the V1 is better suited for MTL than the V2?

 

[HBcorpse]

@HBcorpse, in your experience, what is your favorite build/setting on the V2 for a tight MTL with best flavor?

My OLD sweet spot for any tank, used to be a 28g - 5/6 wrap - 7/64" aka 2.8mm coil.
It would ring out around 1.0-1.1 ohms, and I would fire it at 10 watts (or equivalent voltage) on a Provari v2.5/P3/New Classic.

Since I got the Radius, which is 18650, and subsequently have a battery that lasts days...my sweet spot is evolving.

I have been finding that dual coil, 0.5-0.6 ohm builds are great, fired at 25 watts.

I have achieved this build in several ways, and have yet to decide which is best.

I have used 28g on 1/16" bits, 3/32" bits.
I have used 29g on both those bits.
Still testing on those.

It's great on the v2 because of the wider airflow.
In my experience, more airflow needs a hotter build. Hotter builds are achieved through more surface area. This is why the sub-ohm dripper guys typically use larger wire (26g or even 24g).

The v2 doesn't really have "settings" per se, but I like the grub screw backed out to set flush with the outer part of the base.

And is it your opinion that the V1 is better suited for MTL than the V2?

That's a tricky one.

RAMBLE ALERT!

I started with cartos, back in 2010. Dripper cartos to be exact.
Then came punch & tank cartos. Way better. So good, in fact, that I stayed with those until way after the "modern Age" of vaping was born. Many say that's when the first Kayfun was introduced.

I don't really know, as I wasn't paying attention.

Once I found the Kayfun Lite, it was WAY more airy than my beloved carto tanks.
I had a hard time hitting it MTL.
So I taught myself to do a modified lung hit on the KFL. Crazy right? So many people can believe that my method works for me, but it does.

All that being said, I have experienced the Calix v1/Pico to be very similar in airflow to the Kayfun Lite...just smoother and a better vape!

The Calix v2 (P3 or 510 doesn't matter) is much more airy. Even "closed off" all the way, I'd say it's like 1.5-2x the airflow of the v1/Pico.

Don't get me wrong, it's definitely an amazing option! In fact I've got two v2's running and currently only one v1/Pico.

So, for MTL? I don't know. I would recommend the v1/Pico, as I've got a very good friend (@stanleybb50) who is a tight-draw MTL fan, and he loves the v1/Pico draw.
As for me, I do a modified lung hit on many things people consider MTL...so they're all lung tanks to me!

 

[ToolmanTexas]

My OLD sweet spot for any tank, used to be a 28g - 5/6 wrap - 7/64" aka 2.8mm coil.
It would ring out around 1.0-1.1 ohms, and I would fire it at 10 watts (or equivalent voltage) on a Provari v2.5/P3/New Classic.

Since I got the Radius, which is 18650, and subsequently have a battery that lasts days...my sweet spot is evolving.

I have been finding that dual coil, 0.5-0.6 ohm builds are great, fired at 25 watts.

I have achieved this build in several ways, and have yet to decide which is best.

I have used 28g on 1/16" bits, 3/32" bits.
I have used 29g on both those bits.
Still testing on those.

It's great on the v2 because of the wider airflow.
In my experience, more airflow needs a hotter build. Hotter builds are achieved through more surface area. This is why the sub-ohm dripper guys typically use larger wire (26g or even 24g).

The v2 doesn't really have "settings" per se, but I like the grub screw backed out to set flush with the outer part of the base.



That's a tricky one.

RAMBLE ALERT!

I started with cartos, back in 2010. Dripper cartos to be exact.
Then came punch & tank cartos. Way better. So good, in fact, that I stayed with those until way after the "modern Age" of vaping was born. Many say that's when the first Kayfun was introduced.

I don't really know, as I wasn't paying attention.

Once I found the Kayfun Lite, it was WAY more airy than my beloved carto tanks.
I had a hard time hitting it MTL.
So I taught myself to do a modified lung hit on the KFL. Crazy right? So many people can believe that my method works for me, but it does.

All that being said, I have experienced the Calix v1/Pico to be very similar in airflow to the Kayfun Lite...just smoother and a better vape!

The Calix v2 (P3 or 510 doesn't matter) is much more airy. Even "closed off" all the way, I'd say it's like 1.5-2x the airflow of the v1/Pico.

Don't get me wrong, it's definitely an amazing option! In fact I've got two v2's running and currently only one v1/Pico.

So, for MTL? I don't know. I would recommend the v1/Pico, as I've got a very good friend (@stanleybb50) who is a tight-draw MTL fan, and he loves the v1/Pico draw.
As for me, I do a modified lung hit on many things people consider MTL...so they're all lung tanks to me!

@HBcorpse, thanks for the in-depth response. I'm definitely a single coil vaper and do not like dual coil builds.

Funny to hear someone saying the draw on the KFL was too airy! All you ever hear now is how restrictive it is lol.

Again, thanks for your insight. Very much appreciated!

 

[AshF83]

Of course we can check it out for you. Send us an email so we can work on the details. We will send you a couple of new o rings as well when we return the base. Propably due to rough usage, constant very hot builds or overtightening, the insulators between the posts need changing.We have them as a spare as well. But just to be sure, are you putting the brass spacer/rod between the post and a screwdriver on the side air hole of the pin to tighten it? Because otherwise it won't tighten enough.

Thank you @Billie-cig,
A legend you are!

I will pop you an email now.

Thanks for the info, I generally aim to build around 1.1 ohm and only build single coils = satisfying vape.
Truely a delightful tank to vape with.

I am not sure what you mean but will pop you an email to work out the details. Thanks again billie-cig, service is second to none, you guys are awesome! [emoji108] [emoji106]

 

[HBcorpse]

For those interested, here's a much better shot of how I am wicking my dual coil setup:

(The long tails will get trimmed down to "normal" length, as if this was a single coil build.)

This is:
-29g Kanthal
-5/64" drill bit AKA 2.0mm
-5/6 wraps
-0.58-0.60 ohms
-Fired at 25 watts on Provape Radius
-Juice flow open 1.5 turns

 

[OC513]

Billie or anyone else that can help. My Calix V2 airflow screw comes loose every day and the draw gets too airy so I have to tighten it down again. I keep the screw one full rotation from fully locked down. Each day when I notice the draw is too airy I have to turn that screw 3 or 4 full rotations to get back to the draw I like. Any suggestions for keeping that screw set? I was thinking maybe a lil dab of Loc Tite?

 

[HBcorpse]

Billie or anyone else that can help. My Calix V2 airflow screw comes loose every day and the draw gets too airy so I have to tighten it down again. I keep the screw one full rotation from fully locked down. Each day when I notice the draw is too airy I have to turn that screw 3 or 4 full rotations to get back to the draw I like. Any suggestions for keeping that screw set? I was thinking maybe a lil dab of Loc Tite?

Definitely don't use Loctite.

You can use some Teflon tape.
Same effect, just not permanent or semi-permanent.
1 wrap should be enough to snug that screw down!

@Billie-cig, would you ever consider making a high-heat resistant plastic screw for the airflow?
I remember SvöeMestö made a plastic grub screw for the KF4, and it solved the same issue.

I've got a V2 base that gets a wiggly grub screw myself, but luckily, I have it set flush with the outside of the base, and so turning it back in is very easy with a finger.

 

[OC513]

Definitely don't use Loctite.

You can use some Teflon tape.
Same effect, just not permanent or semi-permanent.
1 wrap should be enough to snug that screw down!

@Billie-cig, would you ever consider making a high-heat resistant plastic screw for the airflow?
I remember SvöeMestö made a plastic grub screw for the KF4, and it solved the same issue.

I've got a V2 base that gets a wiggly grub screw myself, but luckily, I have it set flush with the outside of the base, and so turning it back in is very easy with a finger.

Sounds good. I'll try that. I didn't think loc tite was permanent. Thought it was putty like. Gonna head out after work and get some teflon tape. Thanks.

 

[HBcorpse]

Sounds good. I'll try that. I didn't think loc tite was permanent. Thought it was putty like. Gonna head out after work and get some teflon tape. Thanks.

There are different levels of Loctite.
The blue kind can be cracked loose again, but you'd never get it out of the threads, and risk sucking it into your build if it chips off.

The red kind activates with a lack of oxygen/air, so when you a bolting something down, and there is no other side to the bolt hole, the threads squeeze all the air out and the Loctite activates. This one is more permanent.

Loctite also makes their own superglue type product, which is useful in winter weather, if you get little cracks in your fingertips or knuckles.

Teflon tape is the best non-permanent, non-messy way to tighten the threads on something like the Calix v2 grub screw.

Send us some pics when you're done!

 

[Billie-cig]

I'll check it out for an acetal screw, but I can send a replacement if needed. Maybe the specific screw is a bit thinner on the threads. Since the spcific screw is pressed, it can happen. Just send me a PM to let me know

 

[HBcorpse]

I'll check it out for an acetal screw, but I can send a replacement if needed. Maybe the specific screw is a bit thinner on the threads. Since the spcific screw is pressed, it can happen. Just send me a PM to let me know

I'm ok with mine!

Maybe @OC513 could benefit from a new screw, if the Teflon tape doesn't work?

 

[nuvole]

I will not suggest using Loctite or any sort of glue in vaping stuff...