CAM-M

[hildicat]

Still use mine daily, and love nearly everything about them, but the constant juice leaking under the firing button is getting tiresome. Yes, its easy enough to field strip and clean up but I wish there was a way to eliminate the leaks. Seems to me the culprit is the 510 setup, specifically the insulator. My dream is that someone has figured a way around this, maybe a different insulator, or even swapping the whole 510 for something like the VT510.

If you've found a solution please let us know.

 

[pwheeler]

I'd be interested to find out, too. Mine is shelved until something can be figured out.

 

[hildicat]

There's got to be an easy and relatively inexpensive way to fix this. The former factor is perfect, squeezing dual batteries and 10+ mls of juice in such a compact space is genius. I would love to replace mine with a TMOD dually but that's far outside my budget.

In the mean time, I've added a couple kanger 160's to the rotation. They satisfy in terms of power, but the form factor isn't as convenient as the Cam, barely 7ml capacity, and one of mine has developed a Phantom leak around the bottle!!! It also bugs me that the battery cut-off is 3.6v. 3.3-3.4 seems more reasonable to me for a dual battery regulated device.

 

[pwheeler]

I have 2 of the Kanger 160's and love them. Of course, my hands may be larger than yours, but they work for me. I might toy with that CAM-M and see if another 510 might work somehow. I agree it's got a good form factor. I've just gone more into regulated mods more than mechanicals right now. Of course, my mechanicals are with me forever. I even tried a stint at regulated mods and tanks. Loved them at first, but I can't seem to get the flavor out of them I thought I got before. I guess I'm spoiled by the regulated squonkers, and my LBC is king of them all.

 

[Walter Ego]

My CAM had the same issue with the leaky 510. I used a counter-sink bit to open up the top of the 510 till the bevel was below the vent slots. Then I added a drip tip o-ring around the 510 on my atty and the leaking stopped.

 

[pwheeler]

That sounds like a cheap, effective cure. I'll look into what I can do with it.

 

[hildicat]

My CAM had the same issue with the leaky 510. I used a counter-sink bit to open up the top of the 510 till the bevel was below the vent slots. Then I added a drip tip o-ring around the 510 on my atty and the leaking stopped.

Nice!
Can you by chance share a photo?

 

[Walter Ego]

I hope you can see this OK.

I opened up the 510 to the base of the vent slots, then with the o-ring sandwiched under the atty the juice can't get out of the 510 connection.

 

[hildicat]

Huh? I always thought the leak was coming from somewhere underneath. Just to be clear, this solved the problem of constantly getting juice between the button and copper plate?

 

[Walter Ego]

Yup

 

[pwheeler]

I always thought it was coming from the insulator area. I did have a leaky insulator and replaced it, but I still get some between the plate and button. It's worth a try!

 

[TwistedThrottle]

gonna try this over the weekend. Thanks!!!

 

[hildicat]

I implemented Walter's fix this morning and so far so good. I will take it all apart Sunday after using it for a couple of days and report my findings. Fingers crossed for a dry button!

 

[hildicat]

Well, sad to say that after squonking a full bottle through this thing I took it apart today and sure enough there was some liquid between the button and copper plate. It wasn't terrible, but this was only two days and would surely build up. On to plan B if anyone has another suggestion...

 

[pwheeler]

Back to the drawing board. I'm thinking of a VT as soon as I see if it will work.

 

[Tamer El-Meehy]

Does the juice leak on its way up or on its way down from the 510?


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