Chalice III

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Henry Etta

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Just received my Chalice 3 I scored on the classies! I have wanted a Chalice for a loooong time, but really couldn't see sending that kind of $$ on something with no AFC.
I really like the airflow on this a lot. I have mine wide open and it's perfect. And my AFC ring is loose enough to adjust easily, but tight enough to hold the setting.
My first build was spaced 29g, which was ok. Then tried to stick some MM wire in there (not even close :( if anyone has done this successfully, please tell me how!), then settle on twisted 30g- 5 wraps, 1/16th ID, .9ohm. It's awesome! I've been using a Derringer & Nuppin, and was worried about the vapor density from such a tiny atty (got rid of all my small attys a while ago), but it really puts out. I don't think this thing will ever leave my mini. Now, if I could only figure out a way to get my Reo sanblasted to match (with a polished door)...
 

rudy4653

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Just received my Chalice 3 I scored on the classies! I have wanted a Chalice for a loooong time, but really couldn't see sending that kind of $$ on something with no AFC.
I really like the airflow on this a lot. I have mine wide open and it's perfect. And my AFC ring is loose enough to adjust easily, but tight enough to hold the setting.
My first build was spaced 29g, which was ok. Then tried to stick some MM wire in there (not even close :( if anyone has done this successfully, please tell me how!), then settle on twisted 30g- 5 wraps, 1/16th ID, .9ohm. It's awesome! I've been using a Derringer & Nuppin, and was worried about the vapor density from such a tiny atty (got rid of all my small attys a while ago), but it really puts out. I don't think this thing will ever leave my mini. Now, if I could only figure out a way to get my Reo sanblasted to match (with a polished door)...

What kind of finish do you have on your REO? You can strip the paint and it will be raw aluminum underneath that you can then polish/buff out. I did that to the door of my black anodized mini and came out great!
 

Henry Etta

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My mini is a TRA, and the "tumbled raw" has kinda worn away, so it's more of a brushed finish now. I may try to polish the whole thing, or maybe just the door. I've seen sand blasted aluminum that looks close... not sure if that would be a possibility for a finish on the reo body.
Wow, I really can't get over this little thing. I've learned to squonk just right so there's no gurgling at all, and it obviously won't leak.
I am so glad there is an abundance of these now.
 

Henry Etta

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Logo is facing the firing button :facepalm:. Not that I'm a big fan of branding, even a Chalice... it just bugs me a little. (Yep, totally OCD. That's a big reason why I have Pekos- I hate the overhang of 22mm attys on a Reo.) But it actually works best that way because the airhole is facing up when I vape, which means less chance for gurgling.
I did manage to get some Mundy wire in there tonight. And haven't even lost a spring!
 

Spydro

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I prefer to have the inside single air hole up when I vape

Since all of my III's are on new Mini 2.1's with adj 510's I could do that.. but haven't had any issues so haven't bothered. For S&G I just checked all 3 of mine, and none of them have the single hole up when vaped... one mostly to a side, 2 mostly down. More interesting maybe was that no 2 of the 3 have that single hole in the same place, they are at 3 different locations in relation to the branding... and on only 1 of them is the single hole directly in line with one of the 3 intake holes. They work great so mute points, but not precision placements.
 

Rossum

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The relationship between the logo and the inside air hole does indeed seem to be rather casual.

I don't care which way the logo faces, but it's best if the inner air hole faces away from you; this helps prevent juice from getting into the air channel and the resulting gurgles.
 
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