Cigaverte Firebox review

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Giraut

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Cigaverte Firebox bottom feeder VV/VW mod

firebox-cigaverte.jpg


(This is mostly a repost of this post, with a few edits, and photos added)

This is a review of the Firebox bottom feeder VV/VW mod from French vaping retail chain Cigaverte. It was designed and made exclusively for Cigaverte, and to my knowledge, is the only bottom feeder that sports VV/VW and a screen that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

It is supplied with a ACA 510 Bridgeless atomizer, which is a Cisco knockoff, also made exclusively by/for Cigaverte, that works really quite well.


Salient features of the device (in no particular order):

- It's heavy. And I mean HEAVY! The case is like 1mm thick steel. You can vape and work out for the next arm wrestling championship with that thing.

- No really, you have no idea how heavy it is...

- Despite the case being bomb-proof, the screen is protected by a thin flexible plastic sheet. It feels like your thumb could go through it and crush the LCD. Go figure...

- The button has a heavy action. Also, being the only button to vape and navigate the menu, the menu navigation isn't terribly fast - you "select" a menu item by not pressing long enough. It's functional enough though, unless you like to vary your power settings all the time. The button is heavy enough that you'll constantly think about pressing it hard enough: oftentimes you'll find youtself in the middle of a puff, and suddenly the vape will stop coming, and you'll realise you've subconsciously released pressure on the button (because it's just a little to hard to be natural), and the device has gone into the settings menu. On the plus side, it won't activate inadvertently in your pocket.

- The bottle is a LDPE thingy with a syringe in it, to draw liquid from the bottom. The upside is, you don't have to tilt your mod upside down to feed the atty. The downside is, when you unscrew the bottle, you inevitably press on it ever so slightly, and juice gets wasted. Also, you need to screw the bottle reaaally carefully, lest you strip the bottle's threading. You can also remove the syringe if you prefer feeding the atty by tilting the device upside down, ala V-MOD. It's nice to have both options.

- The default ACA atomizer has a tight draw. Add the beauty ring, and the airflow is even more impeded, which leads to self-feeding. I've drilled eight holes in the beauty ring (very easy, you can't go wrong if you drill at the bottom of each of the 8 flutes on the cone) and enlarged the atty's vent holes, and now it's all peachy. Definitely plan on doing that if you want to be happy with it. Once the draw is loose, it vapes like a champ - and 15W in the supplied atomizer is plenty powerful enough to make impressive clouds.

- The supplied drip tip is metal. Unless you like burning your lips, you'll have to change it to a plastic drip tip.

- It can take a Mini A7, and if you want to use it as a backup battery for a clearo, I've tried it with a Mini Protank 2 and an Evod with a 510 extender. The catch cup is 14 mm in diameter exactly, so those clearos sit nice and tight in it. However, the beauty ring can only accept a 9 mm atty, so you won't be able to use it with the Mini A7, and that's too bad because the beauty ring also stabilizes the topper and protects the 510 connection (it's a heavy-duty steel cone that protects the entire atty-510 connector assembly incredibly well).

- The battery cap has a buttery smooth thread, and it feels nice, solid and well made (and heavy, like the rest of the case). The battery compartment is very tight however: my batteries cames with a QC sticker, and I had to remove it to get the battery to slide in. On the upside, when you install it, you just let it drop and it slowly and gracefully slides in. Very satisfying in a completely nonessential sort of way :)

- It has a small, unobtrusive hole for a lanyard between the beauty ring and the battery cap. Very, very useful!

- The bottle compartment has a metal thread that matches the bottle's threading and a small screw that acts as a stop to prevent you from screwing the bottle too far in. When you insert the bottle, a small needle connected to the bottom of the 510 connector slides into the bottle's tip and completes the juice connection. The aforementioned needle is electrically connected to the mod's PCB with what looks like a small gauge wire - but it's adequate obviously - and the base of the needle is embedded in some kind of white goop, cement or epoxy resin of some kind. It doesn't look terribly pretty inside, but it seems functional.

- The inside of the metal "bridge" that forms part of the casing at the bottom of the bottle compartment sports 3 tabs that protrude inside the compartment. They form a kind of scale, to determine how much juice is left in the bottle. Unfortunately, they protrude a little too much, and tend to scratch the side of the bottle when you screw it in and out. It's not really a problem, but if you're .... about how your bottle looks, you'll have to file down and deburr the tabs a bit.

- It's small enough to fit comfortably in a small shirt pocket (althougth the impressive weight of the thing will make you fear for your shirt pocket's seams), and almost small enough to qualify as a stealth vaping device, if you have big hands.

- It has a proper power supply. If you don't like mechanicals and you prefer to have protection against shorts and a 10s puff time limit, this is one of the few bottom feeders that do a proper job of it.

- It's power-hungry: if you vape a lot, you'll need two 18500 batteries to get you through the day at 11W. One battery will last long enough to process about 3 ml of juice.

- It's cheap.

In short, if you like small, bomb-proof, electronic, and don't mind a little DIY to make it truly perfect, this is the bottom feeder for you.


Photos

(These photos show the beauty ring with the vent holes I've drilled in it. The stock ring doesn't have these holes. Also, the device doesn't come with a lanyard or a battery.)

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spado

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Oct 14, 2012
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You have no idea how much this review helped me and got me going (ahah).
I am currently managing a co-op for it in Italy and this just made it for me, I can"t wait anymore for it ahah.
I have a couple of insights to share with you guys anyway.
First off, the manufacturer. It is Sbody Ecig in China, the same manufacturer of the Vaporshark too.
Also, what is somewhat interesting is that Yihi, the company behind the Chinese chips found in Sigelei products and most of all the new 20/30/35W chips which are set by tilting the mod, when they first released their chip they provided pictures of this mod saying it was a design for their chip. Here the vaporjoes blog entry where he was talking about it: http://vaporjoes.com/blog2/2014/01/17/shock-and-awe-the-chi-na-20-dna-20-replica-30w-coming-2/
What if we could simply open the mod and replace the chip with the new 35W SX350?
And what if we could also mod it a bit and put a new more ergonomic button at the side and maybe prolong the battery holder tube to make it fit 18650?
To us, here in Italy, bottom feeding is the highest pleasure in terms of flavour, simplicity of use and even the best equilibrium between liquid and battery capacity: (7/8ml), which an 18650 on a DNA30 provides (about 7ml with a US18650VTC4 at 12/13W)...

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
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Giraut

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Spado - Thank you very much for the information you provided. Very interesting.

Now, a quick update on the Firebox:

Topper

The Firebox really comes to life with a Mini A7 instead of the default atty that's supplied with it. I mean, the ACA atomizer works well - as well as a Cisco anyway - but a Mini A7 works better.

Mechanically, the Mini A7 is great with the Firebox because the bottom of the body lands on the catch cup and stabilizes the entire atty. Once tightened, it's almost unbreakable. Unfortunately, it also has an unfortunate side effect: the flow of air through the atty stops completely, because the Mini A7's vent holes are at the bottom, around the 510 connector. To alleviate this problem, you'll have to file one or two flats on the shoulder of the atty's body at the bottom, to let air flow between the atty and the catch cup.

So again, unfortunately, some DIY is required here. It's not really a problem though, unless you really want to buy something that requires zero work to perform. But then, if you want that, why would you buy an RDA in the first place eh? :)

Bottle socket

The thread that retains the bottle in the socket in a little too high up in the socket. As a result, the bottle's thread only engages over half a turn before the bottle hits the stop screw. If you overdo it too often, you might damage the bottle's thread, so you have to be extra-careful when you screw the bottle in, and that's annoying. Other than that, it's perfectly functional though.

Button

Yes it's on the front face, and yes it's not terribly optimal if you're used to having it on the side or on the top. However, after a short time, you learn to hold the device with your entire hand, with your pinky under the box, and press the button with the first phalanx of your thumb instead of your thumb tip. It has become second nature to me and it feels quite natural now.

Software bug / weak power circuit / safety feature?

Not an everyday occurence, but since I've noticed it, I may as well mention it: if your topper happens to short out in the middle of a vape (typical intermittent shorts that can happen in a Mini A7 when the long post has been overtightened), the device immediately shuts down, and sometimes won't restart with 5 button presses, in which case you'll have to remove and reinstall the battery cap to reboot it completely.

If the short happens before the start of the vape, it's detected and nothing happens. It's only when the short occurs after the vape starts. In other words, when you press the button to vape, the device measures the resistance once then feeds power to the coil, not expecting the resistance to change afterward. If it does change (which is not normal), it handles the situation less gracefully.
 
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Giraut

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Replying to myself here, but...

I've solved the following problem:

The thread that retains the bottle in the socket in a little too high up in the socket. As a result, the bottle's thread only engages over half a turn before the bottle hits the stop screw. If you overdo it too often, you might damage the bottle's thread, so you have to be extra-careful when you screw the bottle in, and that's annoying. Other than that, it's perfectly functional though.

In fact, it's not the thread in the socket that's too high, it's a feature in the bottle's tip that shouldn't be there. I believe the mod has been designed with a bottle that originally had a different tip.

The bottle's tip (at least the one that shipped with my Firebox, as well as the 5 spares I've ordered) has a narrowing inside, near the top, that prevents the bottle from going up the socket all the way: right after the mod's needle enters the tip, it bottoms out on this narrow section. I opened up the narrowing with a 2.2 mm drillbit, and now the bottle screws in properly and solidly over 3 turns. No need to be careful when screwing it in anymore.

Here's a photo showing the extraneous feature that needs drilling out in the bottle's tip:

cigaverte_firebox_bottle_tip_fix_zps566241ba.jpg
 

Giraut

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Bad news: the 510 thread is stripped. It didn't take long, and it's not like I haven't been careful either.

My Firebox is now unusable. End of the review...

EDIT: WAIT! It's not dead yet!

Okay so the thread is pretty toast. But there's enough of it left to grab onto a brand new Mini A7 - with a brand new 510 connector - somewhat securely.

So I've added a small spring inside the new Mini A7's 510 connector, to push the adjustment screw downward and ensure contact with the Firebox' center post without having to tighten down the atty too hard, and I've enlarged the beauty cone to stabilize the atty side-to-side. Now it's back to life, and happily vaping away again.

The enlarged beauty cone doesn't look half bad either with the Mini A7. Check it out:

cigaverte_firebox-enlarged_cone_zpsa14fed4f.jpg


And with the heat sink I added the other day:

cigaverte_firebox-enlarged_coneheat_sink_zps6dc25207.jpg


I'll keep using it as long as it deigns working, but I suspect I'll run into trouble again next time I have to unscrew the atty for some reason. Hopefully never, but I wouldn't count on it...

I like this little mod for a lot of reasons, but I have to say, it's getting harder and harder to keep liking it. It's not a very well made product if I'm honest. Strangely enough, the case is SUPER strong, the electronics are solid and well made, the battery case is well made, but the most important thing - the 510 connector and catch cup - is complete garbage. And it ships with a bottle that's not fully compatible with the connector too.

So I have it, I paid for it, and I like it. But my advice is, if you're planning on buying one, put your money elsewhere: it's an enjoyable little thing, but it needs WAAAY to much attention, modding and TLC to work properly. And THAT is now the end of the review :)
 
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Giraut

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Update:

I've contacted Cigaverte to let them know of my box' shortcomings. They've agreed to send me a dead unit for free, to scavenge spare parts, upgrade them and rebuild my Firebox the way it should be. That's very classy of them!

Provided the dead Firebox coming my way has a 510 socket that's still in good shape, I plan on having it hard-chrome-plated by my local surface treatment shop, to strenghten the thread. I also plan on mounting a spring to the center post, and adding a side go-go button on the box.

Come to think of it, it's a good unit to hack, if you're into that sort of thing...

More to come then, stay tuned :)
 
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Giraut

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Bought one to play with, let the battery slide in and like you said, little bit tight but now it won't come out LOL

I did warn you... :)

I got the dead Firebox in the mail by the way. I have a feeling it's not as dead as Cigaverte thinks it is. Probably just a loose connector on the PCB or something. With any luck, I'll be able to repair it.

As soon as get around to modifying it, to add a second fire button, I'll post instructions on how to do it. Hopefully this week-end.
 

David1975

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You have no idea how much this review helped me and got me going (ahah).
What if we could simply open the mod and replace the chip with the new 35W SX350?

You wouldn't happen to know where I could find a SX300 to try this, would you? I figure the 300 would work better because (from pictures I've seen) the button and screen is already located roughly where it would need to be for the MOD...
 
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AaronY

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You wouldn't happen to know where I could find a SX300 to try this, would you? I figure the 300 would work better because (from pictures I've seen) the button and screen is already located roughly where it would need to be for the MOD...

interested in hearing how your experiment goes
 
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