Clapton and parallel builds slow firing
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USM im not sure if you saw my earlier post about building lower resistance with the box when it comes in to help increase ramp time. Its the only way ill get more power to the coils with the batteries running in parallel
Just making sure it was realized. A common misconception I see, that it's going to have more "power" because it has two batteries 
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
oh, your button will be fine on that mech, you just need to make sure all your screws under the 510 and on the end of the button are nicely secured or it can jam (hard shorting), ive never had it happen to me an also if you get a version without paint or laquer on the body you can also short by touching your topcap on the atty and the body of the mech at the same time or say if you cut your cotton and taps those areas goodluck
an also if you get a version without paint or laquer on the body you can also short by touching your topcap on the atty and the body of the mech at the same time or say if you cut your cotton and taps those areas goodluck
oh, your button will be fine on that mech, you just need to make sure all your screws under the 510 and on the end of the button are nicely secured or it can jam (hard shorting), ive never had it happen to me
If one of these "hard shortings" occur will i be in any danger or will the coil just fail to fire?
The one you need to watch for is putting the mod down on its side against something conductive, eg chucking your keys ontop of it and you bridge the circuit from anywhere on the outside of the atty to anywhere on the mod, the coil won't save you on this and your batteries will continue to drain and most prob explode.
If the screw from your button or the collar that contacts the button to the 510 come loose and you get unlucky and they bridge then it will more than likely kill your coil's and stop firing without continuing to drain and explode.
I'm making it sound really dangerous but i've never had anything come loose and have only tapped say tweezers, the topcap or a mandrel across the atty and the mod's body which will give a little spark warning you not to do it again
You can leave the batteries in the mod and undo the negative screws to them easy enough if you carry a little flathead screwdriver out and about with you, i wouldnt like to be in a situation where im out and cant disable it or say one of the negative's go a little loose, things like this never seem to happen when your sat at home next to all your screwdrivers lol
The one you need to watch for is putting the mod down on its side against something conductive, eg chucking your keys ontop of it and you bridge the circuit from anywhere on the outside of the atty to anywhere on the mod, the coil won't save you on this and your batteries will continue to drain and most prob explode.
If the screw from your button or the collar that contacts the button to the 510 come loose and you get unlucky and they bridge then it will more than likely kill your coil's and stop firing without continuing to drain and explode.
I'm making it sound really dangerous but i've never had anything come loose and have only tapped say tweezers, the topcap or a mandrel across the atty and the mod's body which will give a little spark warning you not to do it again
You can leave the batteries in the mod and undo the negative screws to them easy enough if you carry a little flathead screwdriver out and about with you, i wouldnt like to be in a situation where im out and cant disable it or say one of the negative's go a little loose, things like this never seem to happen when your sat at home next to all your screwdrivers lol
I generally plastidip all of my mechanical mods (Its a rubberized paint). This should remove any worries of current transferring. Plus, they never leave my desk with a battery in them. If they leave the desk they will never have a battery in them
Yeah a coating would be good.
I dont take mine out either i normally grab my sigelei for out and about.
I'll try take a couple of pics for you tomorrow just to show the internal parts you need to watch and how ive tightened them so they stay tight as they have till now
I dont take mine out either i normally grab my sigelei for out and about.
I'll try take a couple of pics for you tomorrow just to show the internal parts you need to watch and how ive tightened them so they stay tight as they have till now
Yeah a coating would be good.
I dont take mine out either i normally grab my sigelei for out and about.
I'll try take a couple of pics for you tomorrow just to show the internal parts you need to watch and how ive tightened them so they stay tight as they have till now
Excellent thank you!
I am having a similiar problem with my clapton test builds. I was using 26 nichrome with a 30 gauge kanthal outter wrap. At a .4 ohm single coil the ramp up time was very slow. I've got 34 gauge nichrome coming in soon so that should help matters.
My question is assuming a 26 gauge nichrome core, with 34 nichrome outer wrap, what kind of ramp up time am I looking at on a mech mod at .25 ohms. How would I get to that .25 ohms in the first place? Using steam-engine, its tell me about 5 wraps around a 2.5 bit..but I am not sure how the outer wrap will slow things down?
Did you get your mech? sorry i havent posted a pic of the inside i am inbetween laptops and cant get my pass to work but you will see inside the mech you have the screw connected to the end of you button that needs to be kinda yanked tight so it doesnt loosen and then you have a collar inside that the button screw touches to complete the circuit, make sure the collar is tight by pushing the button which will hold that collar in place Stopping it from spinning then as you are holding the button you tighten up the 510 from the top of the mech which will tighten the 510 down into the collar.... hum lol i think you need a pic?
the outside wrap of the clapton doesnt normally make a lot of difference to the ohms as the power doesnt actually run through it, it only acts like a radiator and heats up. When you fire the clapt coil you will see the outside doesnt glow the same as the core
maybe you can go a little lower on the ohms, drop a wrap or go down an id ?
Well, my first attempt after an hour was a total failure. The first coil outer wrap doubled up on me so I scrapped it. When i finally got two wires ready to wrap, I did a five wrap around a 2.5 mm bit and ended up much lower then I expected at .15 ohms. I was shooting for .25 ohms. Not sure what I did wrong. I'm going to retry with kanthal tomorrow and see if that raises me up a bit. Ultimately if I can get a similar effect at a higher ohm I'd be content.
when youve made your clap wire and you are unsure of what the ohms might be and you want to be precise you can always run the wire from your +positive to -negative without actually making the coil and alter the length of wire between the posts untill you are happy, then cut your wire the other side of the posts, take that wire and make your coil for how ever many wraps you get doesnt matter as it will still be the same ohms as you tested at.
The slow heat up is a reason why i vape all my coils at around 0.1ohms with a dual parallel mech but on a good 18650 i will go to 0.15 no problem, the only issue is the battery drains real quick and becouse im mainly at home vaping i aways swap my battery/s at 4v cus the lower you drain the battery on the high power builds the more stress you are giving it, its to do with the load stress
#26 wound around #26 would be at least 6 times the total surface area of a single #26. If it were 9x, the coil would need to be a wire 1/3 as short, for only 3x the total surface area, at 1/3 the resistance so 3 times as much power is drawn through it (if the battery losses don't reduce that). Of course Claptons aren't an exact science, but you get the idea.
A little bit better today, but the 34 gauge nichrome is a pain to work with. I think I'm gonna need to pick up 32 gauge nichrome. I also did a 26 gauge kanthal core with a 30 gauge clapton wrap. 5 wraps, around a 2.5 dual coil came in around .3 ohms...still a little sluggish on the ramp up time better better then the previous build. Hit's nice though..looks very sharp as well.
When I started using higher gauge than 32 for my claptons, it was very difficult to work with. Today, I actually prefer using 36ga. I usually run fused claptons with 26ga nichrome80 and 36ga nichrome80. Little to no ramp up time on my Sigelei, even at ~3.7v. YMMV
Here is a parallel coil on a mech. It is low resistance, much lower than what you are building. This is dual 24g parallel coils wrapped around a 2mm screwdriver. It fires instantly.... instant clouds:
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