Confirmed reason to look for safe batteries...
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I don't think Sony ever expected that a product designer would even consider creating something that ran at close to the CDR. Especially with those temperatures. It's a maximum rating and needs to be derated for reliability and decent cell life. For vapers and the vaping industry though the CDR seems to be more of a every day nominal rating to be regularly exceeded.
One of my biggest peeves is the pulse rating, no one want to understand this is to protect the cell from damage, like when a motor or fan pulls the burst wattage to get started. its not supposed to be continuously put to use all day.
The things vapors do to these cells make it not hard to understand why the big companies refuse to actually support us, and we instead have to buy the cells through 3rd party resellers.
It can't be intended to run continuously like that and be at safe temperatures without active cooling. But the discharge test is a continuous discharge under load. For the test to maintain the 30A for the full discharge, Sony also have to be continuously decreasing the resistance as the battery voltage drops. It gets ridiculously hot without a cooling system. But, somehow, Sony rated it to withstand this extreme circumstance. More extreme, in my opinion, than would happen with a mod that self fired for 5 minutes.
Arrgghhh...."pulse ratings". Makes me foam at the mouth just thinking about how that's abused!
some body please explain to me the inherent safety and function
of a magnet switch.
thank you
mike
of a magnet switch.
thank you
mike
If used in a mech mod, I agree. The cell voltage would drop and the discharge current would also drop since it's a fixed resistance load.
But if it's a regulated mod running in VW or TC mode then the situation could be even worse than when doing a constant-current discharge (like Sony does for their tests). The chip will ramp up the current as the cell voltage drops in order to maintain the power level or temperature. Hmm...the output is pulsed though, gets mire complicated and my brain is calorie deprived right now.
Those in the know...does the average/RMS current draw increase in VW/TC modes as the cell voltage goes down?
I don't think there is any. I've had the same spring in one of my mechs for over 2 years now, it's been heavily used, and it doesn't feel any weaker today than it did then. Still stands up without firing with any atty you put on it. I'm sure there is probably some measurable loss in stiffness but not any functionally speaking.
These magnets also break easily because they are thin and brittle, depending on when this happens it can easily cause an auto-fire situation. While it's possible to break springs by over stressing them anything a mod can survive the spring inside will too. Not so with magnets.
Personally I think springs feel much, much nicer than magnets anyway, although that's totally personally preference. The force with a spring is basically linear, again not so with magnets. Look into the mathematical relationship between distance and magnetic force, and then look into how linear springs work and you'll see that springs give a more consistent force throughout the travel of the button.
Also because of magnetic torque the magnetic force changes slightly if the magnets are rotated, like if you press a button off-center and it tilts the button, the magnet within rotates slightly and is no longer perfectly parallel to the other one and the force changes.
Try to press two switch magnets together by themselves, a force repels against you pressing, but it also moves around in all different directions and takes a lot of effort to stabilize them enough to press together. That same thing is going on inside the switch which causes a more squishy feel in my opinion.
Just personal preference on the feel, but springs aren't going to break anywhere near as easy as magnets.
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a good spring would work too. All I meant was for OP to purchase some replacement for the switch so that it doesn't self fire.
It's a bit like the old PC thing some people spent thousands on top end hardware and skimped out on the power supplies now we have vapers taking chances with crap batteries I don't and never will understand the logic. Efest are one company I'd tell everyone to avoid they just rewrap and misrepresent other manufacturers just pay for the original battery and cut out the middle con.
meh efests are fine in regulated box mods, sure i wouldn't toss one in a mech with a .2ohm coil, but they are fine for the other stuff.
Agreed while not " better" then a spring many of the magnets take more force to depress
My only issue is paying more for someone else's battery, buy at least they use good cells
Didn't know that water was actually a bad idea,
but to the OP, an IRON POT might be a good idea.
Here's where I have my charger:
bought that pot in a kitchen place; it's painted so, it's not something I'd actually use for food anyway; you can see the pot cover on the right.
If I ever get a problem with a battery, the plan is to drop it in the iron pot and put to cover on top.
So far so good, haven't had any of my 18650's vent on me and I think the chances are low, but in event of a problem, I've got my shtf-plan
that kinda reminds me of the mod in my hand right now;
it's an astro with an 18650 and a kick with a 30mm veritas on top.
When I am rewicking it, I can stand it up vertically no problems.
The problem comes when I get to used to doing that, and I put the veritas topcap on.
OOps: just adding the topcap is enough to weigh down on the spring!
fried my wick a couple times because of that.
Yes, I realize it was my own fault, and realized the danger a long time ago. I did get a king V2 that had a recessed firing pin AND a lock, but that one has a "hot button" to it.
Funny you mention a kick. I have a Nemesis which is a pain to lock because of the .5 threading. For that reason, I got a kick for that mod. Since most kicks don't go above 15w, I use that with a tank setup.
I realize I should put a magnet in the mod that got hot.. it is a SS caravela clone. The only reason it fired while it was upright, was because it was dark in the room. I usually visually inspect to make sure it's locked, but it's too dark to see. It probably would've been firing longer if I didn't see the bit of vapor coming up from the drip tip and thought "oh sh......"
I did leave one quick part out... First I saw it autofiring, then I knocked it off the switch, then I tried to pick it up... found out it was too hot, then grabbed a dry wash cloth, took off the bottom cap in case it was venting then listened for any more activity.. I didn't hear any hissing or anything, that's when I put it in the water. The battery was in the tube when I ran water on it. It wasn't dunked into water, but the water flew on the SS mod and atomizer as it layed across the drain. It stayed lik that for a good 20 seconds. I did pick the mod up and put it back in the towel first... then I dunked both the battery and the mod in the sink. I didn't think it was venting ATM, but I didn't want it to get to that point. I didn't see any popped top or bottom cap., but I was thinking more of it conducting electricity than exposed lithium.
Didn't know that water was actually a bad idea,
but to the OP, an IRON POT might be a good idea.
Here's where I have my charger:
bought that pot in a kitchen place; it's painted so, it's not something I'd actually use for food anyway; you can see the pot cover on the right.
If I ever get a problem with a battery, the plan is to drop it in the iron pot and put to cover on top.
So far so good, haven't had any of my 18650's vent on me and I think the chances are low, but in event of a problem, I've got my shtf-plan
I use a pyrex baking dish because I dont always keep an eye on my batteries while charging.
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