Coppervape BF Mod
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He means attach the button screw and button side first, then do the the positive pin and bottle side next. I too find that easier, because it can be attached looser and is easier to fiddle with to move the spring-bar out of the way.
For reference, I managed to snap the head off the positive pin/bottle screw, so I'm using a Fat Daddy Vapes M2.5 squonk pin - I had to file the head down to ~1.5-2mm, and take ~3mm off the threaded section. Because the head on this is slightly longer than the standard screw, I've had to use the large white/clear O-ring on the main 510 seat. Also, rather than file the threads off further, I used the small plastic shim on the positive pin screw that are supplied in the box, in order to allow the bottle to screw on tight (the threads only go so far into the bottle cap).
I've just rebuilt the switch, and here's my method to maximise the strength of the connections while still having a smooth button:
1) Make sure the 510 seat (the main housing that holds the 510 threads) is screwed in tight. If your atty's pin is too long, you can take this off and place the white/clear O-ring on as above.
2) Take the button screw, and layer on the spring-bar, then O-ring (the small black one that fits snug), then insulator. Place this through the hole, then thread the button on. Do this loosely just to hold them together while giving plenty of movement in the spring-bar, so you can swing it to the side
3) Place the positive pin through the 510 hole and either push something in there to hold it in, or, simply screw on an atty. Layer on the small optional shim (if using), then the wide insulator. Swing the spring bar over and put this on, then attach the bottle loosely.
4) Remove the atty, and tighten both sides a little at a time. Be aware of the spring bar, make sure it isn't getting pushed to the side as you tighten. If it starts to, just wiggle the bottle cap a little to move it back. Tighten to where you feel comfortable, but definitely not too much, as someone else in this thread broke the button and I managed to snap the head off the positive screw.
The reasoning for each layer is as follows:
Button screw: The spring bar goes first (from the head outwards) because you want this to be touching the head of the screw. The O-ring goes second because you want it to apply tension to the spring bar against the head. The insulator is obviously necessary, but if you place the O-ring after this, the insulator is trying to flatten out against the spring bar, which actually pulls the button down and reduces the button travel.
Positive pin: The shim (if using) goes first (from atty-to-bottle) because you want the insulator to go next. It goes next because the wide shape of the insulator helps to hold the spring-bar flat which pushes the button upwards (kind of inverse to the other side). The spring-bar goes last A) so that it's insulated, obviously, and B) so that it is in contact with the bottle-cap, which helps the connection.
Using this, I measure a voltage drop of 0.0453V with a 4.00V battery, 3.547V across a 0.19 ohm coil. I polished the mod 4 days ago, and this is better than my black rhodium/copper Limitless mod clone, and sliiightly better than my copper Stingray X clone, both after a fresh polish.
I think it is Easier for me to get the Bottle Side Going First. Then the Button. Then Tighten the 510 Pin. But there are Lots of ways to Skin a Cat.
NOTE: No Cats were Hurt during the Reassemble of the Coppervape BF Mod.
I had problems getting mine to fire in a consistent manor and had ended up damaging the plastic fire button. I overtightened the screw and the barrel of the button snapped off.
I contacted coppervape via face book and asked if I could buy some spare parts. They offered to send me some spares free of charge with my next order. At that point I was not overly impressed with the mod and was certainly not considering a second mod and just wanted to buy the spares. They agreed to send some spares but wanted to charge me $12 for postage. (this was the minimum postage charge via their carrier) I declined the offer as I thought the postage charge was too high for a few grams of spare parts.
I did point out to them that providing decent backup spares was important, that maybe they should consider using a different carrier for sending out spares. I also said that I had managed to resolve the issue myself and while I was used to modifying/repairing vaping equipment many would have just slated the mod and the manufacturer on the forums.
I got up this morning and an unexpected package was waiting for me on the door mat. They had sent out a replacement button, spring and screw free of charge.
Mod is up and running and working better than it ever did with the original parts, I have gone from disappointed in the mod and the customer service, to a happy bunny!
I contacted coppervape via face book and asked if I could buy some spare parts. They offered to send me some spares free of charge with my next order. At that point I was not overly impressed with the mod and was certainly not considering a second mod and just wanted to buy the spares. They agreed to send some spares but wanted to charge me $12 for postage. (this was the minimum postage charge via their carrier) I declined the offer as I thought the postage charge was too high for a few grams of spare parts.
I did point out to them that providing decent backup spares was important, that maybe they should consider using a different carrier for sending out spares. I also said that I had managed to resolve the issue myself and while I was used to modifying/repairing vaping equipment many would have just slated the mod and the manufacturer on the forums.
I got up this morning and an unexpected package was waiting for me on the door mat. They had sent out a replacement button, spring and screw free of charge.
Mod is up and running and working better than it ever did with the original parts, I have gone from disappointed in the mod and the customer service, to a happy bunny!
This is exactly how I did it and thanks for clarifying what I mean tub building upside down. After you put the screw through you have enough room while everything is perfectly aligned to screw the firing Byron into the screens few turns to hold it then go back to screwing in as per usual.
Thanks for the heads up on the bottle top. I've probably been over tightening that and I'd be surprised if at least one isn't structurally weaker between the mods.
Thanks for he info on rebuilding it. Sounds complicated. If I break mind I'll order the parts you recommend and read again.
Surely there is some 510 or part of s 510 that's a drop in for this. Or copper some can sell a parts kit? I'd regret see them raise the price s bit and add extra switch and bottle top and bar. Material cost would be nothing and they could charge $5
How did you file the pin ? I'm not very good with this stuff. Not because of s lack of inclination. I just haven't spent much time doing fielding with these things. Due to this aluminum mod I learned how to refinish and now I've refinished w couple pieces that look great. So if you can tell me if you used a dremel or whatever is appreciate it.
Also how do
You measure voltage drop. Is like to get hard facts in my mods. A couple I have seen much better / worse than Others. And does it help to leave a slightly coats finish on contact points ? Was this voltage drop on brass or aluminum ? Black or white ?
For tightening the screw a god guideline not to over tighten. Push it down. Tighten until the screw Just goes flat. No more than half a turn past that. The bar chases the screw to sit at an angle when the button is depressed if you're not tightening enough. And more creates longer brow and risks breakage.
Thanks for your help! Great post.
The issue with doing it this way is the tiny o ring on the button side that sits underneath the bar. You didn't happen to lose this did you ? It's a real
Pain to
Me to have to try and slide that tiny thing around and line it up. That's why I built it upside down and the button side first. Fwiw. Not saying you're wrong or even my way is better. Just explaining why. And curious if you're missing the o ring which would make rebuilding the other way much easier.
I'm probably just clumsy and you find it simple to get that tiny o ring in place.
It's Funny you Mentioned that Tiny Black O-Ring.
Because the First Time I took the Switch apart and then put it back together, it didn't Work. Something was Seriously Wrong. And I could figure out what was Going On.
I had to get out my 2nd Coppervape and look at the Switch. And that is when I saw that O-Ring.
I had done Everything on my Desk. And the Center Drawer was pulled out about 3/4 of an Inch. And Sitting Half On/Half Off the edge of the center drawer was that Tiny O-Ring.
I Grabbed it Quick. Because I know that if an O-Ring that size interacts to the Earth's Gravitational Field, and plummets to the Floor, they tend to Undergo a Dimensional Change. Never to be seen in this Multi-Verse again.
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I am a Big Believer in the "Best Way" to do something is the Way that works Best for You. I like My Tech. And it works Best for Me. But if someone Tries another Tech and they like that Better, then that is what they Should use.
A vice with soft jaws would be ideal, but since I don't own one, I use a set of mole grips (they're like pliers that lock) to grip the head, then I held the grips, braced against my leg, while I filed the threads with a flat jeweller's file (just a tiny file). Do the threads first because it leaves the head thicker to make it easier to grip. After you've filed some length off the threads, taper them a little bit so that the burrs don't stop it threading into the bottle cap. When the threads are filed, swap it round in the grips and do the head, trying your best to keep it flat. You can put the grips on the threads but only if you wrap a few layers of tissue or rubber bands or, y'know, something first just to make sure you don't damage them.
It took me a bit of trial and error, first time was spot on in length but I filed the head a bit too much and couldn't get any grip with the allen key to tighten it. Then I discovered that the 510 seat comes out and the O-ring in the box, so I did another one (the fat daddy vapes pins came as a pack of 3), this time leaving the head a bit longer.
Whatever you end up doing don't forget to wash the pin well before you bring it anywhere near your mod, it might be annoying to keep washing, filing and checking but the last thing you want is a short on your mod or metal filings in your lungs. You can wash out the hole in the pin by filling the squonk bottle with water and squonking it through the pin.
As for voltage drop, I use a multimeter. I set it to voltage, and test the battery voltage first. Then I put the battery in the mod. Hold the two multimeter leads on the coil posts on your mod, and fire it. It helps to have a third hand to fire it, because you want to have good contact with the leads so the multimeter will stabilize quickly before you end up burning your wick/yourself. It'll fluctuate a bit to start with, but it should settle on a value. This is the voltage across your coil. With the battery voltage, coil voltage, and coil resistance, you can figure out everything else:
Amps is coil volts/coil res, or Vcoil/Rcoil, to use better notation.
Since amps are the same everywhere in the circuit (a simple one like this anyway), you can work out the resistance of the mod, using:
Vbatt - Vcoil = Vmod
Vmod/Amps = Rmod
Power to your coil = Vcoil^2 /Rcoil
Power from the batteries = Vbatt*Amps (or Vbatt^2 /(Rcoil+Rmod), same thing)
Bear in mind Rmod is everything, the mod, battery, atty, everything but the coil itself. Since batteries are about 0.01 ohms, you're never really going to get below 0.02 ohms.
The voltage drop on mine was on the brass one. I believe aluminium might be better immediately after a polish, but brass doesn't form an oxidation layer as fast. As far as conductivity, plated contacts are going to be better, but it varies from mod to mod, some might have an uneven surface, etc. Copper mods almost always hit hardest, but they need a good polish often to keep them at their best. I use nevr-dull to get oxidation off, or do any cleaning really, gets everything up nice and shiny and lasts forever. My coppervape is getting a little tarnished so I'll post up some before and afters next time I have a go at it.
Thanks for the detailed response. I familiar with multimeter for computers and such I just wanted to confirm the measurement spots me should have been more clear. That said you should copy that to a note and repost it for a sticky in the hardware sub. Very good instruction.
.pi use sunshine cloths for mild deoxidation and cape cod for heavy polish.
.pi use sunshine cloths for mild deoxidation and cape cod for heavy polish.
Does anyone know the the size of that "little" oring ... they're so small, it wouldn't be a bad idea
to have some spares.
to have some spares.
Hand check Coppervape which arrived a few minutes ago. Popped on the NarDA I'd already built (haven't tried the included atty yet) and it's working great. Already love it.
Hand check Coppervape which arrived a few minutes ago. Popped on the NarDA I'd already built (haven't tried the included atty yet) and it's working great. Already love it.
That is Exactly what I use. Only mine is Black.
How does the Finish Feel?
Finish is great. Edges are generally soft, a bit sharp only around the bottle opening, but that can be easily fixed. Can't believe how nice it is for the money.
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Yeah. I was kinda Blown Away when I got mine. And although it Hoped it would be Nice, it FAR Exceeded my Expectations for a 30 Dollar Squonk Mod.
Totally agree.
My guess is that included atty is not going to be so great with the bottom air open. The air ports on the deck are kinda short and I expect some leaking. No matter. Probably works fine with side air. But if I ordered today, I'd go for the mod only at $26. Ridiculously good value.
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I kinda treated the RDA that came with the Coppervape the same way I treated the RDA that came with the DripBox 60w.
And that was if it Worked, Cool. But if it Didn't, No Big Deal. Because the Price for the Kit was so Inexpensive. The Kit Price was worth it for the Mod Alone.
I'm about 3 Heart Beats away from Buying a Silver Coppervape on FT. I don't Need it, I have two Black Ones. But for 26 Bucks?
The Silver Looks Killer with a NarDa.
Have you tried the included atty yet?
The "silver" is just the bare fine-brushed aluminum, no coating. Big upside is you can make look like new with little effort when you accumulate the inevitable scuffs and scratches. I stripped the plaint off my white original DripBox for that reason.
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