Coppervape BF Mod

[Jeff M.]

Quick question:

Whenever I screw down a new atty, or even just adjusting the airflow on some RDAs, the 510 wants to screw further down into the mod. This, in turn, shortens the throw of the switch, sometimes to the point of autofiring. For fixing a threaded piece in place I would normally use medium (blue) Loctite or similar thread locker. The only electrically conductive thread lockers I can seem to find are of the "permanent" variety (ie must heat the parts to 350 degr F to break the bond). I don't want to have to go through all that just to clean the CV every once in a while. Is there a product that will act like a medium thread locker for this purpose? Any other options to keep the 510 from rotating?

 

[puffon]

Quick question:

Whenever I screw down a new atty, or even just adjusting the airflow on some RDAs, the 510 wants to screw further down into the mod. This, in turn, shortens the throw of the switch, sometimes to the point of autofiring. For fixing a threaded piece in place I would normally use medium (blue) Loctite or similar thread locker. The only electrically conductive thread lockers I can seem to find are of the "permanent" variety (ie must heat the parts to 350 degr F to break the bond). I don't want to have to go through all that just to clean the CV every once in a while. Is there a product that will act like a medium thread locker for this purpose? Any other options to keep the 510 from rotating?

It shouldn't be moving.
Use a flat screwdriver to hold the 510 pin and turn the bottle "cap" to tighten.
Be careful not to overtighten, the pin is made of plated brass.
Locktite shouldn't be necessary.

 

[zoiDman]

Quick question:

Whenever I screw down a new atty, or even just adjusting the airflow on some RDAs, the 510 wants to screw further down into the mod. This, in turn, shortens the throw of the switch, sometimes to the point of autofiring. For fixing a threaded piece in place I would normally use medium (blue) Loctite or similar thread locker. The only electrically conductive thread lockers I can seem to find are of the "permanent" variety (ie must heat the parts to 350 degr F to break the bond). I don't want to have to go through all that just to clean the CV every once in a while. Is there a product that will act like a medium thread locker for this purpose? Any other options to keep the 510 from rotating?

Do you mean that the Entire 510 Connector is Turning? Or is it just the 510 Pin inside the 510 Connector?

Because if it is Just the 510 Pin, do what puffon said above.

 

[TheWestPole]

Simple Switch Modification

I don't know about you, but when I get firing inconsistencies more often than not the problem is in the switch, specifically the electrical connection between the spring and the contact screw. Too tight or too loose can both mess with firing consistency. The switch design relies on the o-ring to keep constant contact between the spring and screw while allowing the button to be turned for locking purposes. Not an ideal design for consistent firing.

Yesterday I took a page out of Custom Classic's book and freed the contact point from the button assembly. First I used the existing screw to fix the insulator to the button so it acts as a retaining ring. Second I made a thin brass contact disk and soldered it to the end of the spring. Third I insulated the middle of the spring in case it shifts out of position. As long as your bottle cap stays tight on the center pin it won't.

Much improved firing consistency now and goodbye to fiddling with the switch. Haven't tried this with a stock button yet--been using a clear one I made--but the principle applies.

 

[TheWestPole]

Do you mean that the Entire 510 Connector is Turning? Or is it just the 510 Pin inside the 510 Connector?

Because if it is Just the 510 Pin, do what puffon said above.

My question too. I thought he meant the connector, but not sure.

 

[Jeff M.]

It shouldn't be moving.
Use a flat screwdriver to hold the 510 pin and turn the bottle "cap" to tighten.
Be careful not to overtighten, the pin is made of plated brass.
Locktite shouldn't be necessary.

I do this already to keep the positive/BF pin from moving while installing the bottle. That isn't the issue.

Do you mean that the Entire 510 Connector is Turning? Or is it just the 510 Pin inside the 510 Connector?

Because if it is Just the 510 Pin, do what puffon said above.

The entire 510 connector. It is threaded into the top of the mod. The underside has two holes, probably meant for a spanner of some sort. You can use anything pointed, like a dental pick or awl, to spin the 510 up or down.

 

[zoiDman]

...

The entire 510 connector. It is threaded into the top of the mod. The underside has two holes, probably meant for a spanner of some sort. You can use anything pointed, like a dental pick or awl, to spin the 510 up or down.

Gotcha.

I have never gotten mine to Turn. So I'm not sure what is the Best to Do?

Maybe someone who has can chime in.

 

[ST Dog]

Mine stays put when I turn it.

The 2 holes are in a separate piece from the outer shell though.

 

[b.m.]

Simple Switch Modification

I don't know about you, but when I get firing inconsistencies more often than not the problem is in the switch, specifically the electrical connection between the spring and the contact screw. Too tight or too loose can both mess with firing consistency. The switch design relies on the o-ring to keep constant contact between the spring and screw while allowing the button to be turned for locking purposes. Not an ideal design for consistent firing.

Yesterday I took a page out of Custom Classic's book and freed the contact point from the button assembly. First I used the existing screw to fix the insulator to the button so it acts as a retaining ring. Second I made a thin brass contact disk and soldered it to the end of the spring. Third I insulated the middle of the spring in case it shifts out of position. As long as your bottle cap stays tight on the center pin it won't.

Much improved firing consistency now and goodbye to fiddling with the switch. Haven't tried this with a stock button yet--been using a clear one I made--but the principle applies.


View attachment 669875 View attachment 669877

That's a pretty cool idea.Any pics of the button you made?I've been thinking of trying to make a new better looking button,but haven't gotten around to trying yet.

 

[TheWestPole]

The entire 510 connector. It is threaded into the top of the mod. The underside has two holes, probably meant for a spanner of some sort. You can use anything pointed, like a dental pick or awl, to spin the 510 up or down.

I'd try torquing it hard in the full up position. If it still backs out when tightening an atty, re-tighten adding a drop of epoxy at the shoulder. That might be enough.

 

[TheWestPole]

That's a pretty cool idea.Any pics of the button you made?I've been thinking of trying to make a new better looking button,but haven't gotten around to trying yet.

No locking feature, so I'll be removing the ON/OFF.

 

[zoiDman]

When FDV started to have shipping Problems, someone asked where they can get Stainless Steel M3 BF Pins?

I just saw this while poking around FT...

$7.81 YFTK Replacement Bottom Feeder Pin for Speed Revolution RDA (5-Pack) 5-pack - 316 stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[puffon]

When FDV started to have shipping Problems, someone asked where they can get Stainless Steel M3 BF Pins?

I just saw this while poking around FT...

$7.81 YFTK Replacement Bottom Feeder Pin for Speed Revolution RDA (5-Pack) 5-pack - 316 stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Yep.
Now they need to make SS M2.5 pins....

 

[benley73]

When FDV started to have shipping Problems, someone asked where they can get Stainless Steel M3 BF Pins?

I just saw this while poking around FT...

$7.81 YFTK Replacement Bottom Feeder Pin for Speed Revolution RDA (5-Pack) 5-pack - 316 stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Good length on them too , usually there 10mm max 12mm , these are 13mm , i have 9 x at 18mm from states from Amazon used 1 of them .
for a rda i needed a longer pin for , think it was Velocity rdta with small glass tank under it ,

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[zoiDman]

Good length on them too , usually there 10mm max 12mm , these are 13mm , i have 9 x at 18mm from states from Amazon used 1 of them .
for a rda i needed a longer pin for , think it was Velocity rdta with small glass tank under it ,

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Yeah... Much easier to make a BF Pink Shorter. Then it is to make it Longer.

 

[Asbestos4004]

Yeah... Much easier to make a BF Pink Shorter. Then it is to make it Longer.

you have to be willing to challenge yourself.... Make em longer, man. Earn it!

 

[TheWestPole]

Yeah... Much easier to make a BF Pink Shorter. Then it is to make it Longer.

you have to be willing to challenge yourself.... Make em longer, man. Earn it!

 

[Sir Kadly]

you have to be willing to challenge yourself.... Make em longer, man. Earn it!

My spam folder is full of emails selling ways to do just that

 

[Bad Ninja]

Yeah... Much easier to make a BF Pin Shorter. Then it is to make it Longer.

*Shakes head*

Go get the pin stretcher from my tool box.

 

[Heartsdelight]

Thanks , been 7mths now and still no definite diagnosis for her , Aplastic anemia MDS , and possibly leading to lukemiea , ? , Bone marrow transplant might not even work yet ,? They holding off for a little longer see if can diagnose it to treat it properly ,

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I'm so sorry