Coppervape BF Mod

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TheWestPole

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What exactly needed to be Drilled?

The clearance hole for the positive post screw in the underside of the deck. It was a little out of alignment. All you have to do is open it up a bit. Drill, Dremel, whatever.
 
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zoiDman

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The clearance hole for the positive post screw in the underside of the deck. It was a little out of alignment. All you have to do it open it up a bit. Drill, Dremel, whatever.

Gotcha. Thanks.

If I hear about the Possibility of a Hard Short on something I'm going to use on a Regulated mod, it is Definitely something I take note of.

But if I hear of something where a Hard Short could occur when used on a Mech, that gets my Bat RADAR Blinking on High.
 

TheWestPole

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Gotcha. Thanks.

If I hear about the Possibility of a Hard Short on something I'm going to use on a Regulated mod, it is Definitely something I take note of.

But if I hear of something where a Hard Short could occur when used on a Mech, that gets my Bat RADAR Blinking on High.

I hear ya. It never showed up as a hard short, just a little firing weirdness and burnt taste. I thought I'd left a shaving behind from the BF conversion, took it apart, and only then saw the carbon from the arching.

Gotta repeat though: Great little BF RDTA!
 

zoiDman

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I hear ya. It never showed up as a hard short, just a little firing weirdness and burnt taste. I thought I'd left a shaving behind from the BF conversion, took it apart, and only then saw the carbon from the arching.

Gotta repeat though: Great little BF RDTA!

The Design is Interesting.

Flavor wise, how would you compare it to a NarDa or a Hadaly?
 

TheWestPole

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The Design is Interesting.

Flavor wise, how would you compare it to a NarDa or a Hadaly?

Same ball park, but with a smaller chamber volume than those so you can equivalent flavor with a smaller build. The 24g Kanthal seemed a bit too aggressive at first, whereas it wouldn't in Narda and Hadaly.

To me, Hussar RDTA vapes more like a 16mm atty (Odis-16, for example) though smoother and more consistent, as you expect comparing an RDTA to an equivalent rda.
 
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zoiDman

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Same ball park, but with a smaller chamber volume than those so you can equivalent flavor with a smaller build. The 24g Kanthal seemed a bit too aggressive at first, whereas it wouldn't in Narda and Hadaly.

To me, Hussar RDTA vapes more like a 16mm atty (lOdis-16, for example) though smoother and more consistent, as you expect comparing an RDTA to an equivalent RDA.

Cool.

Might just have to get One.
 

teddy.it

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Just an FYI...

My 1st Coppervape Kit didn't come with an O-Ring for the Bottle. And since the Bottle didn't leak, I never thought about it one way or another.

It wasn't until I got a V2 Mod as a Backup (to a Backup) that I noticed that it included a Bottle O-Ring.

But since I wasn't getting any leaking, I never put the O-Ring in my V1.

Where deos the o-ring sit? Thanks
 

Train2

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Several folks have found the need to fiddle with the firing pin (the screw) to ensure good contact. One person had a misplaced magnet I think interfering with good conductivity.
Me personally, I have 3 of them (black, brass, and alum) and they all have been working perfectly with REALLY minimal maintenance...

Do you have to modify/replace parts with this mod when you receive it? I had one awhile back and had trouble with it firing consistently. I made an offer for another one as I'm back into sqounking and don't have a mech sqounker yet.
 

jcash74

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Several folks have found the need to fiddle with the firing pin (the screw) to ensure good contact. One person had a misplaced magnet I think interfering with good conductivity.
Me personally, I have 3 of them (black, brass, and alum) and they all have been working perfectly with REALLY minimal maintenance...
Thanks for the response. I have a aluminum one on the way. I wanted to ask the experts so I am able to get the best experience possible from it.
 

zoiDman

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Do you have to modify/replace parts with this mod when you receive it? I had one awhile back and had trouble with it firing consistently. I made an offer for another one as I'm back into sqounking and don't have a mech sqounker yet.

I have 3 CV's also. And the All worked well right out of the Box. No real Modifying or Replacement parts needed.

About the Only thing that might be Needed is a Good Cleaning and possibly removing any Burrs with a piece of Fine Sandpaper or a File. But that pretty much goes for Any Mechanical Mod.
 

zoiDman

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Any thoughts on a replacement for the o-ring?

I'm not enthralled with the stock part.
One of mine has already broke.
I want to find something more durable.

The first 2 CV's I got were very early v1's. And they Didn't even come with a Bottle O-Ring. And I haven't had any Leaking/Seeping what so ever with them.

I'll dig out a Caliper when I get a chance and take some Dims off the Bottle O-Ring if no one posts them.

Is your Bottle Leaking right now when used without the O-Ring?
 
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Heartsdelight

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The first 2 CV's I got were very early v1's. And they Didn't even come with a Bottle O-Ring. And I haven't had any Leaking/Seeping what so ever with them.

I'll dig out a Caliper when I get a chance and take some Dims off the Bottle O-Ring if no one posts them.

Is your Bottle Leaking right now when used without the O-Ring?
I've told a few people about the o ring & I have suggested they use any driptip o ring that will fit & they have used it successfully on the Boxer clone bottles.
 

zoiDman

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I've told a few people about the o ring & I have suggested they use any driptip o ring that will fit & they have used it successfully on the Boxer clone bottles.

A Drip Tip O-Ring might be a Tad Small for the CV Bottle. But ya never know.
 
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