Coppervape BF Mod

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woodhippy

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ST Dog

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Hope it works for you.
I have this one www.ebay.com/itm/221816055932

Notice the lock button on the hand piece? Makes tool changes a lot easier than having to use the on on the Dremel.

While I know the Dremel version includes the square drive nut for the tool, the one you got doesn't mention it. It should have one, but you never know these days.

I think the larger piece to attach to the Dremel might be a bit easier to work with too.
 
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woodhippy

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Hope it works for you.
I have this one www.ebay.com/itm/221816055932

Notice the lock button on the hand piece? Makes tool changes a lot easier than having to use the on on the Dremel.

While I know the Dremel version includes the square drive nut for the tool, the one you got doesn't mention it. It should have one, but you never know these days.

I think the larger piece to attach to the Dremel might be a bit easier to work with too.

I do not have a Dremel, Mine is a cheap harbor freight.
 

ST Dog

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I do not have a Dremel, Mine is a cheap harbor freight.

Same applies though. The lock at the end of the shaft v/s having to use the one on the motor.

The inner shaft is square and fits into a nut that replaces the collet nut.

The outer housing of the shaft attaches to the threaded section on the motor housing (have to remove the trim ring) just like several other attachments.
 

benley73

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Quick unrelated , post 20 % off code = (HZJNBQT8) steam Crave Aromamizer Supreme 30mm RDTA on pre sale ,now 10ml and 5ml with spare glasses an postless deck capable of up to 6mm id dual coils, shipping at 20th dec they say , live pre sale steam crave site now on Facebook or direct , 48 usd or 39.52£ cheaper than the Mod Farther RTA , with a juice flow control , Sorry for hijacking thread ,

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334a785844cfc55b3c8d3dc879615ab5.jpg
 

ThaFuzz

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Fyi for all you bottom feeder diyers, dremel makes a drill press workstation and a keyless chuck that may be of some interest to you all ($60 for the pair of them, dremel brand, from home depot)also, dremel brand bits are lousy for stainless steel (i broke 2 this weekend) newest bf in my house
2016-12-05 12.40.04.jpg

Freakshow mini got bfed this weekend , notched the screw and drilled the center pin.vapes like a dream
 

Mowgli

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I just received my Brass & Silver Coppervape mods.
I'm trying them with an existing .25Ω build on a Tobeco Velocity V1.
I use an inline volt reader and get 4.2 volts from a used Samsung 25R
I put the Velocity on and it drops to 3.4v under load.
The battery's not new but it's not trash either.

Is that within a tolerable expected output range or will I get much better results from a fresh battery? .8Ω drop under load = OK?

The Velocity is sporting dual 28/32 fused claptons but only 4.5 wraps.
Should I just try a simple dual 24ga .25Ω build?
Should I expect much less sag from that?

Thanks
 

zoiDman

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I just received my Brass & Silver Coppervape mods.
I'm trying them with an existing .25Ω build on a Tobeco Velocity V1.
I use an inline volt reader and get 4.2 volts from a used Samsung 25R
I put the Velocity on and it drops to 3.4v under load.
The battery's not new but it's not trash either.

Is that within a tolerable expected output range or will I get much better results from a fresh battery? .8Ω drop under load = OK?

The Velocity is sporting dual 28/32 fused claptons but only 4.5 wraps.
Should I just try a simple dual 24ga .25Ω build?
Should I expect much less sag from that?

Thanks

I just put a Fresh LG HG2 in my CV.

I get 4.15v with No Load.
And 3.75v with a .35 Ohm Single Coil SS Build in a NarDa FT Clone.

That LG HG2 is about 6 Months old. And has being part of a 4 Battery/2 Mod rotation. So it probably has about 90 or so Charges on it.
 
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Mowgli

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I just put a Fresh LG HG2 in my CV.

I get 4.15v with No Load.
And 3.75v with a .35 Ohm Single Coil SS Build in a NarDa FT Clone.

That LG HG2 is about 6 Months old. And has being part of a 4 Battery/2 Mod rotation. So it probably has about 90 or so Charges on it.
So you're saying these Sammy R25's are tired.
I have some unused ones I can dedicate.
I'll see what kind of drop the new ones give.
When I build to get as close to my 60W+ range I enjoy I should use the loaded voltage to compute what build to make?
 

puffon

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    Something to check:
    Both my CVs had burs on the firing pin screw, which prevented the screw face from making solid contact.
    Careful filing or sanding will remove them. (you don't want remove the surrounding gold plating tho)
    Looks like they used a wrong size screwdriver, when assembling.
     

    zoiDman

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    So you're saying these Sammy R25's are tired.
    I have some unused ones I can dedicate.
    I'll see what kind of drop the new ones give.
    When I build to get as close to my 60W+ range I enjoy I should use the loaded voltage to compute what build to make?

    Your Batteries could be Showing some Age. It could also be that your CV needs a little Fine Tuning.

    I would take your CV Apart and give it a Good Cleaning. And hit the all the Contact areas with some 400 or 600 Sandpaper.

    The Transfer Bar/Spring on mine were kinda Oxidized when I got mine. A little Gentle rubbing with some 600 Sandpaper made it Shiny and Happy.

    I would also put a Clean piece of Printer Paper on a Very Flat surface. Then rub the Lower Body section on it at the Split Line.
     

    Mowgli

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    Cleaned contact areas, transfer bar and top of the bottom half with 1000 grit.
    Picked the debris out of magnetized holes with ceramic tweezers.
    Wiped down both mods with isopropyl on a vaper towel.
    .6v sag on silver & .55v on brass :) better than .8v
    New R25s needed a charge up from 3.6 and they're almost ready.
    Thanks guys
     
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    zoiDman

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    Cleaned contact areas, transfer bar and top of the bottom half with 1000 grit.
    Picked the debris out of magnetized holes with ceramic tweezers.
    Wiped down both mods with isopropyl on a vaper towel.
    .6v sag on silver & .55v on brass :) better than .8v
    New R25s needed a charge up from 3.6 and they're almost ready.
    Thanks guys

    Cool.

    Don't forget to hit the Flat Tops and the Negative Ends of your Batteries with that 1000 Grit Emery Cloth.
     

    zoiDman

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    Pretty good mod @ .25Ω with 24ga. I'm not impressed with the atty though.
    I just got a couple of Tobeco Velocity V2s so I'll wash one up and give her a toot.

    Yeah... CV would have Crushed It if they had coupled the Mod with an above average RDA.

    But for the Price, and with How Much I Like the Mod, it's all Good.
     
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    Mowgli

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    14.9 oz brass CV/Velocity V2 vs 7.6 oz aluminum CV combo
    I'm starting to like the CV atty enough now that I have airflow dialed in.
    It's a cheap POS but it's Velo style & it works OK. They'll be good backups.

    I have another used Boxer getting delivered Tuesday (orange!). That'll make 5.
    $40 for a dual 18650 SXj mod that needs a board.
    I have 8 spare $25 SX350j boards in the hoard so no problem mon.

    A couple of styling squonkers making PB Toffee fog

    15384475_1876596042571217_3932823014562621172_o.jpg
     
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    muzichead

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    Its impossible to measure voltage drop in a CV or any device like it. To get the true VD, you will need to measure the sag of the battery direct and out of line with the atty. It's easy to do on a device like a Reo because you can remove the door and put your test leads directly on the battery ends and fire the device. Once you get the battery sag you can then measure the drop from the atty end and then do your simple math from there. For this reason you will never get a true VD reading on a CV or similar device...
     
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