Coppervape BF Mod
- Thread starter Layzee Vaper
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Hey all, just registered after neglecting to do so for years. Ordered a few of these the other day and I can't wait for them to get in.
Question for all of the current owners: Have you done a full teardown yet? If so, how is the button assembly constructed? Hopefully it's pretty simple and we could figure out a way to use some custom buttons
Question for all of the current owners: Have you done a full teardown yet? If so, how is the button assembly constructed? Hopefully it's pretty simple and we could figure out a way to use some custom buttons
Brilliant idea! A nice wooden 14mm convex one would be perfect imo
I've had my Coppervapes for 2 weeks now, one aluminum, one brass. The only problem I've experienced was the aluminum one sometimes wouldn't fire until I whacked it on the heel of my hand. Tightening the bottle cap in a turn or so seems to have fixed that right up. The brass one is a solid piece of ordnance that can double as a weapon, not something I want to trot about with in my pants pocket. It was coated with some crappy varnish that rubbed off and discolored, I stripped it down with some wet/dry paper and a nylon scrub pad to bare brass.
I had problems at first with the atty. It was easy to over fill it and have juice running out the bottom vent. I couldn't dial in the airflow to anything I liked. Figured I'd toss it, but before I did I gave it a whirl with the chuff cap. I have never liked chuff caps or even over-size drip tips, but it works a charm with this atty with the airflow wide open on both vents. I've got them set up with dual 26ga SS, 3mm, 9 wrap coils that come out to .3ohms. I shortened up my wicks and tucked them behind the vents leaving a gap around the feed tube, and no juice leaks into the vents. In fact, no juice even makes it into the well. I squonk it right up to the top of the coils, hold it for a second to let the wicks saturate, and vape away. Another nice feature of the chuff cap is you can look right down into the atty to see how much juice you are getting into it.
The 10ml bottle rocks. The extra bit of diameter makes it as easy to squeeze as those squishy Italian bottles, but with better control. Oh, yeah, and it holds 10ml...
I had problems at first with the atty. It was easy to over fill it and have juice running out the bottom vent. I couldn't dial in the airflow to anything I liked. Figured I'd toss it, but before I did I gave it a whirl with the chuff cap. I have never liked chuff caps or even over-size drip tips, but it works a charm with this atty with the airflow wide open on both vents. I've got them set up with dual 26ga SS, 3mm, 9 wrap coils that come out to .3ohms. I shortened up my wicks and tucked them behind the vents leaving a gap around the feed tube, and no juice leaks into the vents. In fact, no juice even makes it into the well. I squonk it right up to the top of the coils, hold it for a second to let the wicks saturate, and vape away. Another nice feature of the chuff cap is you can look right down into the atty to see how much juice you are getting into it.
The 10ml bottle rocks. The extra bit of diameter makes it as easy to squeeze as those squishy Italian bottles, but with better control. Oh, yeah, and it holds 10ml...
For those that missed it, as Johnny Dill suggested 3m 1500 wet dry works perfectly on the brass.
Haha,i completely agree,the brass is a heavy beast haha.
I got the aluminum and brass ones too.I've been using the aluminum all week,i haven't used the brass one yet though,but it will definitely be a house mod due to the weight.
How do you adjust it for a different atty? My silver velocity mini 1 sits perfect. The black v2 mini sits up a little higher. I know there was a white collar piece to adjust this but I can't figure out how it goes in the 510 connector.
Thanks in advance,
Cash
stand up and fight for your right to vape!
Thanks in advance,
Cash
stand up and fight for your right to vape!
To raise the hight of the centre pin you have to remove the pin and add the white collar piece between the pin and the existing insulator.
You can also lower the whole 510 connector in the body of the mod, there are a couple of holes on the underside of the 510 so that you can adjust the hight.
Neither are very user friendly, a deeper 510 with a screw adjustable centre pin would have been much easier....
I picked up a 3-pack of 3M Scotch-Brite 37448 yesterday. Excellent product. 
-Perfect for a final buff; it has slightly less sheen than 1500 paper IMO. Great for keeping mods {with minor scuffs & scratches from use} looking great. The "depth" of these pads makes them easy to use compared to sandpaper. 
-Perfect for a final buff; it has slightly less sheen than 1500 paper IMO. Great for keeping mods {with minor scuffs & scratches from use} looking great. The "depth" of these pads makes them easy to use compared to sandpaper.
I'll have to pick up some of those ScotchBrite pads!
P.s: FT added the mods as well as single replacement bottles today.
P.s: FT added the mods as well as single replacement bottles today.
Fasttech has the silver and brass
$32.56 Coppervape BF 18650 Mechanical Mod Kit - authentic / 1*18650 / w/ 10ml dropper bottle / stainless steel + aluminum at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$45.21 Coppervape BF 18650 Mechanical Mod Kit - authentic / 1*18650 / w/ 10ml dropper bottle / stainless steel + brass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$32.56 Coppervape BF 18650 Mechanical Mod Kit - authentic / 1*18650 / w/ 10ml dropper bottle / stainless steel + aluminum at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$45.21 Coppervape BF 18650 Mechanical Mod Kit - authentic / 1*18650 / w/ 10ml dropper bottle / stainless steel + brass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
No need to buy mod specific bottles though,a standard 10ml juice bottle fits these.I have a bunch for my diy juice,and they fit perfect.
The supplied "adjustment shim" is thicker than it needs to be IMO; I made one out of very thin shim stock to correctly clock the atty air holes to my liking.
Additionally, I figured you could just replace the entire 510 for an adjustable FDV item, but it's not that simple. -These 510 threads are bigger in diameter than the FDV Classic 510 Insert. So much for that!
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For those of you who are experiencing firing issues with these the fix is to completely dissemble top and re-orient the small O-ring in the little desk underneath the firing pin what's happening is parts of it are getting shifted to the side now I know that some of you may lay down the ring then the O-rings and put the brass on top but that's really kind of a silly way of doing it flip it upside down and build it with the screw through it then everything is lined up perfectly
If I need to take it apart and take a picture I will it's no big deal but basically if you just take the rod off the connecting rod that has the bended it flip it upside down build the switch upside down with the screw below it you're going to get everything to line up perfectly how many put it through the whole you can kind of move it side to side to center it out as you tighten screw you'll see what I mean it will go perfectly through the whole and all the crunchiness is gone and then as far as the orientation both of my mods are similar in the screw is at the 10 o'clock position assuming the bottle is 6 o'clock
If you have the button in a comfortable throw position you'll see the side of the screw towards the bottle is higher. Due to the pressure from, the firing bar. So the screw head is not flat when it meets the battery top. The tighter the screw the more flat but the longer the throw.
Mainly though the o ring and disk being off causes a lot of issues. And if you don't build the bar off the top plate. And try to lay the ring and o ring down put the bar over. Then a ) it's super frustrating b) it won't stay in position or build properly. Taking. Both off and redoing them off device made the switchEs so much better
I understand there's some supposition that certain numbers are better than others but so far on my brass mods and my stainless steel mods the kind of standard over the counter that I took a picture of are working perfectly
I'm curious how much better that number is. Or if that number isn't just the same as the heavy duty pads.
You don't mean the shim on the underside of the top plate below the metal fire bar do you ?
That one has to be thick to level the screw out or you're firing with a trigger that should be like _ but ends up like /
Finally
There's a benefit to buying multiple colors. Especially with the brass. You can distribute a bit of weight. To even things out slightly. And imo make s nice mixture. I'm sure black and which changes would look nice. But I like this for a change up
If I need to take it apart and take a picture I will it's no big deal but basically if you just take the rod off the connecting rod that has the bended it flip it upside down build the switch upside down with the screw below it you're going to get everything to line up perfectly how many put it through the whole you can kind of move it side to side to center it out as you tighten screw you'll see what I mean it will go perfectly through the whole and all the crunchiness is gone and then as far as the orientation both of my mods are similar in the screw is at the 10 o'clock position assuming the bottle is 6 o'clock
If you have the button in a comfortable throw position you'll see the side of the screw towards the bottle is higher. Due to the pressure from, the firing bar. So the screw head is not flat when it meets the battery top. The tighter the screw the more flat but the longer the throw.
Mainly though the o ring and disk being off causes a lot of issues. And if you don't build the bar off the top plate. And try to lay the ring and o ring down put the bar over. Then a ) it's super frustrating b) it won't stay in position or build properly. Taking. Both off and redoing them off device made the switchEs so much better
I understand there's some supposition that certain numbers are better than others but so far on my brass mods and my stainless steel mods the kind of standard over the counter that I took a picture of are working perfectly
I'm curious how much better that number is. Or if that number isn't just the same as the heavy duty pads.
You don't mean the shim on the underside of the top plate below the metal fire bar do you ?
That one has to be thick to level the screw out or you're firing with a trigger that should be like _ but ends up like /
Finally
There's a benefit to buying multiple colors. Especially with the brass. You can distribute a bit of weight. To even things out slightly. And imo make s nice mixture. I'm sure black and which changes would look nice. But I like this for a change up
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I am speaking of the 510 positive pin- that the juice flows through. CV supplies a plastic washer, presumably to adjust the 510 higher if needed. I found that to be much too thick; I made a very thin washer out of brass shim stock that goes between the positive pin and the plastic bushing/insulator. {to raise the 510 pin slightly} -Works perfect to clock the deck where I want it when atty is installed snug.
Just a FYI.
The 1st time I completely Disassembled/Reassembled the 510 and Switch, I kinda Struggled getting it back to together and having the Switch be Smooth.
A Tech that I found works Well is to...
Drop the 510 Center Pin into the 510 Connector and make sure that it is Fully seated.
Now screw an Atomizer into the 510 Connector. This keeps the 510 Center Pin Seated.
Put the Insulator and Brass Bar onto the 510 Pin.
Screw on the Bottle onto the 510.
You Can't screw the Bottle on Tight because the 510 Pin will Turn. But that's actually what you want.
Reassemble the Switch making sure that the Small O-Ring is still on the Firing Pin.
Remove the Atomizer and with a Small Flat Screwdriver, snug up the 510 Pin while Holding the Bottle.
---
The Key to all of this was having an Atomizer in the 510 Connector. Because without one, it is a Test of Dexterity to get the Bottle Connected without the Switch being slightly out of Alignment. Causing the Switch to be Crunchy.
The 1st time I completely Disassembled/Reassembled the 510 and Switch, I kinda Struggled getting it back to together and having the Switch be Smooth.
A Tech that I found works Well is to...
Drop the 510 Center Pin into the 510 Connector and make sure that it is Fully seated.
Now screw an Atomizer into the 510 Connector. This keeps the 510 Center Pin Seated.
Put the Insulator and Brass Bar onto the 510 Pin.
Screw on the Bottle onto the 510.
You Can't screw the Bottle on Tight because the 510 Pin will Turn. But that's actually what you want.
Reassemble the Switch making sure that the Small O-Ring is still on the Firing Pin.
Remove the Atomizer and with a Small Flat Screwdriver, snug up the 510 Pin while Holding the Bottle.
---
The Key to all of this was having an Atomizer in the 510 Connector. Because without one, it is a Test of Dexterity to get the Bottle Connected without the Switch being slightly out of Alignment. Causing the Switch to be Crunchy.
^^ good. Bt do the firing pin first upside down on the bar. Then deal with the atomizer. Imo. Much easier
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