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Could someone explain why this kanger atomizer rated 1.8 ohms is vaping at 2.4 ohms? How about flooding one day and dry hits the next?

Discussion in 'New Members Forum' started by mhuckins, Feb 16, 2014.

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  1. mhuckins

    mhuckins New Member

    Feb 16, 2014
    United States
    I asked this question over at r/electronic_cigarette and only got one reply- that the 1.8 ohm atomizer isn't "the best rated from Kanger" and a suggestion that I order an Aerotank base. While I appreciate the gentleman's reply I was hoping for a bit more information on why I'm experiencing gurgling one day and dry hits the next, whether or not I'm right about the flavor wicks, or just some good advice on how I can be happier with my set up. So here's the post:

    Just moved over to a protank II from a DCT. I've tried cheaper clearomizers before but kept going back to cartos. I'm running this protank on a SmokTech SID with 70/30 vg/pg juice.

    My cartos are rated 1.5 ohms with an error of 0.2. I've never had a carto from Smok outside of that error. I'm very dismayed that the first atomizer I've tried is so far off of it's rating. This is the 1.8 that came in the box with the protank.

    Yesterday I was having flooding issues. Today I've been experiencing dry hits. I disassembled the atomizer, cleaned the wicks, dry burned, and only popped one of the flavor wicks back on. I'm under the impression that the thicker juice will cause more dry hits and taking one of the flavor wicks off will help with that. Why would I have the flooding and gurgling just the day before? I'm convinced by the end of today I'll be putting that second flavor wick back on because of flooding.

    So far I'm not entirely convinced that the protank is for me. Any ideas what is going on?
  2. mitch655

    mitch655 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Nov 1, 2013
    Northwest GA, USA
    The kanger factory coils are just that factory coils they are never right on the money 1.8 , 2.2 i usually buy the 2.2 and they come out to 2.3 or 2.4 most of the time. I always take out one of the flavor wicks and turn the plastic piece upside down seems to help on dry hits. I've noticed that it gurgles more if I lay it on it's side rather than stand it up.
  3. mhuckins

    mhuckins New Member

    Feb 16, 2014
    United States
    Of course the atomizers aren't going to be right on the money but an error of 0.6 ohms seems excessive. Poor quality control.
  4. Susan W.

    Susan W. Provarinati in fideliam ☆ Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Apr 30, 2013
    Torrance, CA
    I've never had one that is more than 0.2 off. 0.6 seems excessive. I believe two heads come with the Protank, one is a 1.8 and the other is a 2.2. Could it be possible that it's really a 2.2 one?
  5. mhuckins

    mhuckins New Member

    Feb 16, 2014
    United States
    I've got the 2.5 that came in the box in my hand. I've checked the ohm rating on the side of the atomizer a few times while I was dealing with the dry burn issues. I'm certain I'm running the 1.8. I'm gearing up to test a few of the extra 1.8's I bought.

    I should mention that I did check on the kanger website to make sure this is an authentic protank and the extras I got are sealed in foil in a pretty kanger box.
  6. grimlock1974

    grimlock1974 Full Member

    Dec 18, 2013
    Raleigh, NC
    The last 2 boxes of Kanger coils I got seem to have quality issues. I always get 1.8's, but I have measured anywhere from 1.6 to 2.3. A couple leaked bad.
  7. Huckleberried

    Huckleberried Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 10, 2013
    Louisville, KY, USA
    The head should have the ohms lasered on the side of the base. Mine have been all over the place. I learned to rebuild them, no longer an issue.
  8. Crunchy2k

    Crunchy2k Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Jan 31, 2014
    Left Coast
    My 1.8 coil was prone to flooding right out of the box. The 2.2 coil was perfect. I popped the tower off the head and found the coil seated such that wick was pulled down on both sides. I eased the coil up, centered the coil over the air hole, put flavor wicks back in and the head works now to the bottom of glass before it floods. I have since bought two Divides and two Kanger Aero bases to go with them. My original Protank II is still stock. Occasional gurgling is normal. I find myself having less problems as my experience level climbs. I am using 80/20 and 70/30 PG/ VG DIY joose.

    As to the higher than normal ohmage, I have only seen it when there is eliquid on the contacts after a flood situation and the coil head is so poorly made as to leak from day one. Cleaning and repairing fixes it for me..4 divide heads and 1 Protank leaked more than I have liked so far.

    I only get dry burning when my watts are set too high for the sucking vacumm I'm using. I vape from 6.5 to 8 watts on an Itaste VTR. I can intentially dry burn anywhere in that range. At 12 watts, I can't suck fast enough. It burns every time. LOL
  9. mhuckins

    mhuckins New Member

    Feb 16, 2014
    United States
    My breakdown of the ten atomizers are:

    (1) 1.8 ohm
    (1) 1.9 ohm
    (5) 2.0 ohm
    (2) 2.1 ohm
    (1) 2.7 ohm

    I'm going to use this 2.3 and 2.7 to fool around with rebuilding coils. Maybe try some cotton. I have a feeling I'm going to get in deep with this.
  10. maria1232

    maria1232 Full Member

    Jan 23, 2014
    Atlanta, Ga
    This is how I got started with the rebuilding. Randomly got a faulty one and thought "maybe I should try to be badass and rebuild it"... fast forward a couple of weeks later and I have rebuilt all of mine. So much better.
  11. Train2

    Train2 ECF Guru Verified Member ECF Veteran

    May 11, 2013
    CA, USA
    I fairly consistently measure my 1.8's at anywhere from 1.9 to 2.1.
    And I'm OK with that.

    I do NOT have any real ongoing trouble with leaks or gurgles - a LITTLE gurgle sometimes, but usually when the coil's getting gunky or the battery's getting low. And I DO remove ONE peice of the flavor wicking to allow more juice to get to the coil - I find I get much better flavor and vapor that way.

    Not sure what else to try - what's your power setting?
    Oh - it is also possible that you just got a couple crappy coils. They are definitely not super on quality control - occasionally you'll just get one that craps out really quickly.

    I still use ProTanks with stock coils - but they've slowly become my third-tier vape, behind cartotanks and the dripper I just got this week, which hasn't left my desk...
  12. lavender1742

    lavender1742 Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Feb 11, 2014
    Both of the protank 2's I bought are pieces of crap. I am waiting now for my new gift to self an MVP shine and at least 1 Iclear 30b!
  13. Rickajho

    Rickajho ECF Guru Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Apr 23, 2011
    Boston MA
    Maybe that's because it's actually a 2.4 ohm coil. Did you check? Real Kanger coils with have the ohm rating etched into the bottom of the coil, in the only cylindrical area between the center post insulator and the metal washer. You will need a magnifying glass to read it.
  14. Rickajho

    Rickajho ECF Guru Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Apr 23, 2011
    Boston MA
    Well here's a few things that people do that cause problems:

    Running it too hot at too high a voltage/wattage. I can make any Kanger BCC gurgle, dry hit and spit liquid up the mouth piece by cranking the voltage up. I can also fix it by turning the voltage down. These aren't high voltage dripping attys - they are clearos and don't work well at higher voltages than necessary.

    Sucking on it like a McDonald's milkshake. Drawing too hard first gives you a mouth full of liquid, then letting go makes the excessive vacuum pull the liquid right back down - and dump it out the base of the coil. A lot of people seem to pull on these things until they are cross eyed. It doesn't work.

    Using the wrong coils. The coil for a PT/EVOD is not the same as the coil for the T3s/MT3s. Using the wrong coil in the wrong base means an incorrect fit to the base, which leads to leaking and battery connection problems.

    Removing the silicone cap from the vent tube causes leaking, flooding, gurgling and low vapor production. Some people think it's packing material or something - it isn't. It seals the mouth piece tube to prevent liquid in the tank from getting directly into the mouth piece.

    Removing top wicks. The point of any wick is to feed liquid to the coil in a controlled manner. In the Kanger design the top wicks also help to seal the space between the coil and the base of the vent tube. Remove the top wicks and you risk flooding the coil with more liquid than it can turn into vapor. Then vapor production actually goes down - not up. Then people crank up the voltage to compensate - and complain about harsh/hot/burnt vapor and - flooding, gurgling and leaking...
  15. ykalon

    ykalon Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Dec 9, 2013
    Since you are running a SID, resistance shouldn't be a problem with vw. You are running a high VG% juice, so that can in my experience cause inconsistency in wicking with standard coils. I suggest you learn how to rebuild, and use cotton instead (a very small amount). When it gets nasty taste just throw the old wick, dry burn and insert a new wick. A microcoil with 28-30ga wrapped around a 1/16 drill bit work wonders in a protank :)
  16. downInTn

    downInTn Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jan 21, 2014
  17. danny4x4

    danny4x4 Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Feb 22, 2013
    The legs of clearos are secured by the rubber/silicon grommet, so connection may sometimes be iffy. On some heads, the resistance goes up when the coil is cold and drops when you fire it. This may or may not be the issue with your head.

    For the dry hit/leaking issue, what may have happened is that you may have sucked harder than normal to get juice to the coil to avoid dry hits. The flavor wicks may have shifted out of position, leading to leaks the next moment. Using ekowool or cotton twine as flavor wicks may help as they are less prone to shifting.
  18. pauly walnuts

    pauly walnuts Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Dec 7, 2013
    Im not sure id still be using protanks if I couldnt rebuild them. After a little experimentation, getting a 1.7ohm coil that vapes like a train is like clockwork. Much better than the factory coils.
  19. ckquatt

    ckquatt Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 8, 2013
    Milledgeville, GA
    Kanger factory coils are woefully inconsistent. That's why when I get a new tank in the mail I always recoil with cotton as soon as I open them up. I just got 2 Aerotank's in the mail yesterday and recoiled them first thing! Problem solved!

    Sent from somebodys phone I found using Tapatalk.
  20. Huckleberried

    Huckleberried Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 10, 2013
    Louisville, KY, USA
    I hear ya! I sat down the other night with the intent of doing nothing but. I built 11 coils with different gauges, different drill bits and wrote down every bit of it. Now I know exactly what I want and what to use to get there. Never thought I'd be this into it all.
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