Crap luck with nickel/temp control

[Rymesis]

On Thursday I went out and got a Invader Mini 50w temperature controlled mod but it's only given me nightmares.

Everything gets near too hot to touch in temp control, cotton IS burning
Nickel coils seem to be an absolute nightmare and I've recoiled and wicked everything
multiple times but it's either crap flavor, or not working at all what so ever.

Lemo, absolute TRASH on it, not a single thing I've done has worked.
(No flavor, actually BURNS the cotton when it actually DOES work with the mod)
Holy Grail, barely any flavor, but does actually produce vapor
Rebuilt Atlantis coil, acts like trash when it does work, barely any vapor
Magma, Not even the hint of flavor, burning cotton black while still soaking wet but some vapor.

I've already had the issue that touching coils never work for me with Nickel, unlike royal wire.
I've tried higher ohms, lower ohms, raising temp, lowering temp.
But everything still gets nearly hot enough to burn skin.

I've tried from 20w-40w, 370-500F temp.
Anything below 20w doesn't even bother to produce anything other than a wisp of vapor and no flavor.

Am I the only one having these issues? I'm about ready to just start using it with my Royal Wire
At least with that I get consistent results.

 

[Shigura]

Hopefully I'm reading this right, your not rolling your ni200 wires that your coils are touching right?

 

[RAWRferal]

What kind of wire do you have? Is it ni200?

 

[Rymesis]

ni200 28 gauge
Coils are built non-touching, but it's like they're still getting hotspots too.(I'm sure they aren't touching)
They are secured well in the posts
I'm still wicking like I always have with japanese cotton

 

[Shigura]

ni200 28 gauge
Coils are built non-touching, but it's like they're still getting hotspots too.(I'm sure they aren't touching)
They are secured well in the posts
I'm still wicking like I always have with japanese cotton

Thats quite interesting, don't think i've ever came across this before at least not on my TC mods. Perplexing to say the least and i'm sure thats an understatement for you right now. I haven't thrummed through the forum thread for this yet: New TC mod - Invader mini - specs online! | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[jseah]

I was told that nickel works best with spaced coils. I have an Origen RDA and an Origen Genesis RTA with nickel coils made for me by the B&M I frequent, and Subtank Mini, Nautilus Mini, and Atlantis all using pre-made nickel coils (purchased from Vaporshark) and haven't had any issues with them on a Vaporshark rDNA40, SX Mini M Class, and a Vaporflask V3 clone. The only issue that I had (which I can't figure out) is the Subtank Mini that I am using the nickel OCC in doesn't seem to be detected by the Vaporshark. Every time I put that tank on the rDNA40, I get the check atomizer message. This tank works fine with the SX Mini M Class, so I use it on that. My second Subtank Mini with a kanthal OCC works fine in the rDNA40.

 

[salemgold]

Sounds like your Invader may be defective. It should not be burning the cotton even if the cotton were dry.

 

[helmut75]

I´m vaping 95% of my Atomizers with Nickel Builds, and everything works fine with my sharks and Hana.
U need absolutely clean threadings and absolutely Ohm-stable atomizers (like Squape (r), Vapor Giant, IN'AX, Tilemahos, Erlkönigin, Kayfun 3(.1)/Lite and so on), so things like Kayfun4 (spring in + is crap) and Lemo (+-pin made with 2 pieces touching each other) are out.
Only Mod with DNA40 i dont use Ni200 is the RailBox, because it changes resistance caused by construction, will try smth out to get this working too (the spring in the 510 of the RailBox isn´t strong enough to hold the pluspin accurate enough).

For Temperature Protection u should adjust it the way that it always runs into protection, than it will work fine and won´t burn your wick.
I´m vaping @ ~200-240°C

 

[EagleLobes]

I used the Lemo with nickel before I got the Lemo 2 and found that nickel worked best if, instead of threading the legs through the holes, I wrapped the legs around the screws. And make sure to tighten the screws good. As long as the 510 was tightened, it always worked fine. And if I used contact coils the flavor was better than spaced coils.

 

[Rymesis]

I tried both through the holes and around the screws, neither worked with it. Constant "Open atomizer" or the resistance went crazy(There's no way I'm building a 0.68 ohm nickel coil like it thinks)
On my eleaf ohm checker it clocked out at 1.56 ohms(What?) So the Lemo is pretty unviable for me.

I built dual touching coils last night on my Holy Grail and I'm messing with it some now, at 400F i get dry hits, not terrible full on dry hits like with Kanthal but still enough to make me cough.
I dropped the temp to 350f and I'm playing with it some now (I built the coils and pulsed them at very low wattage to make them how I do Kanthal coils)

 

[MoDmAnDaN]

Dry or "pulse" firing a ni200 wire is pretty much useless on TC mods. Pulsing was a way of burning off residual chemicals and annealing the wire. Since most TC mods will only fire a max of 570F, the wire just doesn't get that hot.

I own 2 SX Mini M series mods and thrown all kinds of builds on my Subtanks (kanger) and my delta 2s. I've only had one build that produced a burning vape and that was due to my coils touching each other. Other than that, it's been vaping bliss!!

I currently run a 28 gauge twisted with 7 wraps. Gets me at 0.057 ohm, which I set to 450F.

BTW, IMO ni200 coils don't produce the quite the amount of flavor that a Kanthal coil does, but it's a minor issue to me.

 

[BlueSnake]

As others have already stated, something is terribly wrong. Either your mod is defective or you do not have it setup correctly. If the TC is working and you're set at 400 or below, the cotton should never burn, even if it's completely dry.

If you are getting fluctuating ohm readings that usually means there is some connection problem, either where the coil attaches or at the 510 connection.

Whatever is going on, you have a major malfunction.

 

[peraspera]

You might want to contact your vendor if you have ruled out any iffy 510 connections or build issues. Poor soldering on TP mods, particularly the ground, seems to wreak total havoc with temperature protection.

 

[ArdDarvis]

(without reading everyone's posts) I read that it is essential to build and dry fire on another devcie before attaching your atty to a TC mod. I have no experiences with this, but I've read that the board is constantly checking the coil, and if you're building on it, it's simply going to get the wrong idea about it.
So, build your stuff on another mod, get it right, then screw it in to your TC mod.

Also, I read about a "settling stage" where the chip is trying to get an initial "feel" for what is attached to it. So, maybe, screw on your atty and just let it sit for 20 minutes, then give it a shot.

I have no idea what I"m talking about, just trying to spread information that I've read. Hope you get it to work. Returns are a pain.

 

[K_Tech]

Although I only have one TC mod, with most atomizers, it works quite well. Something is sounding seriously wrong, this is not the way TC should be working, even if you're wrapping wonky coils.

 

[ArdDarvis]

I found the write up I was referring to. It's a good read, maybe it'll help you out.

DNA40 Ni200 the basics - build and info | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[Rymesis]

I do get fluctuating ohm readings, though the Lemo is just insanity. Nothing works on it, and if I have a proper built coil and it's trapped under the screws then it makes no connection and just says "Open atty"
On my eleaf ohm reader it's reading 0.61 in between constantly losing connection

 

[Rymesis]

Well with dual touching micro coils on my Holy Grail, temperature control finally seems to be working as it's suppose-to.
I guess there's such a thing as too big of a coil in a RDA with Nickel

 

[OICUVAPE12]

I have a Invader mini and experienced the same issue. I found that with a stable build it works great for awhile. If it sits for 30 plus minutes and I pick it up and fire it I get nothing. It acts as if its just gone to sleep. I have to press the fire button like 30 times for it to wake up and then previous settings have changes to lower values. I have noticed that removing the battery and putting it back in helps re-calibrate. I have contacted seller and was told they will get with Manufacturer to see if this is a known issue. I also have a fire button issue where I can press the button lightly to feel it engage or click but nothing happens. Only if I really mash it down will it fire consistently. Man, I am bummed out because this thing looks and feels great IMO. I was hoping it was just mine! I am going to try a few more tests with a standard coil (other than Nickle out of TC Mode) and then no Atty at all and see if the Sleep issue continues. I will update with my findings.

 

[OICUVAPE12]

Update! Same "Sleep" issue regardless of Wattage Mode, Temp Mode or with out Atty attached at all! Something is wrong with my HeatVape Invader Mini. I have also noticed when I hit the Fire button Screen flickers twice every time.