Custom Box Switch Safety

[a0ls0n]

Does anyone know if using an angel-eye switch like this can be used on a custom unregulated 18650 box safely? it is rated for 12 volts, but I couldn't find out anything about amps or resistances. Will the high drain battery damage the led that lights up when the button is pressed? If this is not a good switch, what would you recommend?

 

[Nightly_Paradox]

Most of the halo switches had built in resisters in them to prevent the LED from burning out. The switch will last if it is a mosfet box. I had wanted to use that exact switch in my first build but decided not to due to space constraints.

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[a0ls0n]

Most of the halo switches had built in resisters in them to prevent the LED from burning out. The switch will last if it is a mosfet box. I had wanted to use that exact switch in my first build but decided not to due to space constraints.

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is a mosfet necessary/recommended for a single 18650 mod?

 

[Nightly_Paradox]

Necessary nah, unless you feel like replacing your for switch often. The reason for the mosfet is; it acts as a relay sending a lower amperage to your switch while applying a full current to the 510 (think relay)

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[a0ls0n]

Necessary nah, unless you feel like replacing your for switch often. The reason for the mosfet is; it acts as a relay sending a lower amperage to your switch while applying a full current to the 510 (think relay)

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Basically, this is my plan. not exactly a box, but the mechanics are the same. If i were to use a mosfet, where would it fit in?

 

[Nightly_Paradox]

Interesting, building an e-pipe?

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[a0ls0n]

Interesting, building an e-pipe?

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I wanted something a little classier than your average mod

 

[dc99]

Mosfet is pretty much a have to. A switch that could handle the current of an unregulated mod would be gigantic. There only around 4 bucks or so with the resister

 

[Nightly_Paradox]

I wanted something a little classier than your average mod

I like the idea, if you look at the basic shape of a pipe. You could fit a switch large enough to handle the amperage where you would traditionally load tobacco in a standard pipe.

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[dc99]

In that case you could use a mechanical switch like this. http://fatdaddyvapes.com/eBay/Photos/Pushers.jpg

 

[a0ls0n]

In that case you could use a mechanical switch like this. http://fatdaddyvapes.com/eBay/Photos/Pushers.jpg

Do you know if you can solder straight to that? I was considering a mechanical switch, I just saw the angel eye switch and liked it

 

[dc99]

Don't really have to solder anything. It just makes contact between the ground and positive. If you like the angel eye just use a mosfet.

 

[a0ls0n]

what I came up with:

A spring underneath the battery will keep it from touching the positive contact. When the button (a copper slug) on top of the "bowl" is pushed, the whole battery will slide down, and touch the positive lead, completing the circuit. The purple and orange lines are the heavy gauge copper wires that I will use. The orange negative wire is soldered directly to the button. A clearance channel will be cut into the back of the battery chamber to allow the negative wire to slide with the battery. Both wires lead to a 510 adapter which the RDA will be screwed into. The chuff cap on the RDA will be inserted and glued into a wooden mouthpiece. The top of the RDA can be removed along with the mouthpiece to drip it.

P.S. Sorry I didn't have a more aesthetically pleasing banana for scale.

 

[a0ls0n]