Customer and Product Support Thread.

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star4024

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what can u say about a country that poisons its own babies with formula contaminated with jet fuel?? How is it even possible to accidently mix up the two?? Are they produced in the same factory? Remember a few years ago when our dogs started to die from china pet food and now it is from tainted pet treats?? Cant even say they are trying to harm our country when they hurt their own babies. Are they all insane? vape with the caution and common sense that you have..They are all nuts:blink:
 

WA3PNT

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V8 Issue/Question

Been using my V8 for several weeks. New rubberized Black unit arrived at home, and I'm out on the Rodeo Circuit, so it will be next week before I can use the new unit.

Had an issue arise today with my Black V8. Charged the batteries, filled a CE5+, set the output to 3.2 VOlts, and when I fired the V8 it immediately went to 5.0 Volts and the Blue LED at the switch blinked several times. Thought it might be a shorted CE5+, but checked it with my Provari, and it showed 2.1 Ohms. Also the CE5+ vaped normally on the Provari.

Back on the V8, set to 3.2 Volts, and again the V8 went to 5.0 Volts with a blinking LED. Pulled the batteries for a while, reinstalled the batteries after checking the ego adapter for any short/issues. Also put the adapter on the Provari with the CE5+ to verify it was not an adapter issue.

Back on the V8, and the same problem (5.0 & blinking LED)

Set it aside, and when I tried it about 15 minutes later, it is functioning normally.

Has anyone else experienced this (Did not see it in previous posts)?

Could this be the "overheat" protection kicking in (although the unit was not hot)?

Any help or explanation appreciated..

RodeoGeorge
 

gormly

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V8 Issue/Question

Been using my V8 for several weeks. New rubberized Black unit arrived at home, and I'm out on the Rodeo Circuit, so it will be next week before I can use the new unit.

Had an issue arise today with my Black V8. Charged the batteries, filled a CE5+, set the output to 3.2 VOlts, and when I fired the V8 it immediately went to 5.0 Volts and the Blue LED at the switch blinked several times. Thought it might be a shorted CE5+, but checked it with my Provari, and it showed 2.1 Ohms. Also the CE5+ vaped normally on the Provari.

Back on the V8, set to 3.2 Volts, and again the V8 went to 5.0 Volts with a blinking LED. Pulled the batteries for a while, reinstalled the batteries after checking the ego adapter for any short/issues. Also put the adapter on the Provari with the CE5+ to verify it was not an adapter issue.

Back on the V8, and the same problem (5.0 & blinking LED)

Set it aside, and when I tried it about 15 minutes later, it is functioning normally.

Has anyone else experienced this (Did not see it in previous posts)?

Could this be the "overheat" protection kicking in (although the unit was not hot)?

Any help or explanation appreciated..

RodeoGeorge


It has happened to me several times (on different units) I was told when I tried to ask about it that it was the protection circuit, "too much vape in your time" I think was the exact response I received. When I let it sit, it goes back to normal after a bit. Very odd (or good maybe). It also might be a short in the adapter and the circuit kicks off then as well so not just regulated to heat.

I did short it once trying to get a reading with alligatorless pins on my multimeter and it blinked and then a while later it was working again
 

txtumbleweed

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Mine had a somewhat similar problem. It went to low voltage reading and I changed batteries and it went to 5.0 V like normal but when I tried to vape it it went to low voltage again. I replaced with another set of batteries and same thing. I tried several different sets of batteries and Cartos and all to no avail. If I hold the power button down it will go from lo to 5V and it will fire at 5 V but I can't adjust voltage up or down. I sent in a ticket regarding it.
 

gormly

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This why 2 batteries in series (7.4v)is not a good idea for low voltage vapping (3.4-3.9v) .


Not sure why that would be the case, I do not believe the problems reported in a few units indicate a stacked battery issue, if anything they indicate isolated shorts or more likely circuit board issues.

If you are not using the full voltage of the stacked batteries then by definition you are changing the voltage and would be the same at any voltage not equaling the output of the two batteries.

(2) 3.7v batteries putting out 7.4v and being stepped down to 6v is exactly the same as being stepped down to 3.4.
The same components are being used and in the same manner, so I do not see how a lower voltage would be an issue. Granted I am no expert but this is how I understand it, if I am wrong, please explain. I'd like to know.

I am not challenging you personally here, just do not want maybes, might be's or just personal opinions floating out here, if there is a scientific reason, I'd like to know.

Also, it's worth it to know that there are about 300+ of these out there right now and the problems I have had reported are a small fraction.
 

gormly

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I was talking of my personal experience with MD VV box. Not related to Ovale. Just the same problem.

Understood, but I'd still like to know what you meant by "This why 2 batteries in series (7.4v)is not a good idea for low voltage vapping (3.4-3.9v)"

If you know something I am not aware of it is helpful to all of us.
I'm no expert :)
 

Andyhrn

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I think this would help. Direct from ECF.

"Current advice

So that is the basic information we have at this date. As a result, the following advice can be given at this time:
For ultimate safety, use a single-battery mod.
For high-voltage, use a single-battery mod with a booster circuit of some kind."

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...61-exploding-mods-update-february-2012-a.html

Here's expert who could explain 2 batteries issue.

What I meant is the batteries are overheating faster with a low voltage.
Another reason is just practical:why does someone needs 2 batteries 7.4 v mod with the low voltage vapping ? Isn't it more convenient to use an one battery mod (and replace only the one battery )?
 

txtumbleweed

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I think this would help. Direct from ECF.

"Current advice

So that is the basic information we have at this date. As a result, the following advice can be given at this time:
For ultimate safety, use a single-battery mod.
For high-voltage, use a single-battery mod with a booster circuit of some kind."

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...61-exploding-mods-update-february-2012-a.html

Here's expert who could explain 2 batteries issue.

What I meant is the batteries are overheating faster with a low voltage.
Another reason is just practical:why does someone needs 2 batteries 7.4 v mod with the low voltage vapping ? Isn't it more convenient to use an one battery mod (and replace only the one battery )?

The ones that have exploded have all been the RCA 18340 batteries and all have been in metal tube mods. None of the box mods of wood or plastic have had any issues according to the article. I feel these are as safe as any e-cig and safer than many other APV's. Using the batteries in series and reducing the voltage down instead of up provides a much longer charge. My two 18350 batteries in my V8 hold a charge much longer than my 18650 LT vaping the same carto.
 

gormly

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I think this would help. Direct from ECF.

"Current advice

So that is the basic information we have at this date. As a result, the following advice can be given at this time:
For ultimate safety, use a single-battery mod.
For high-voltage, use a single-battery mod with a booster circuit of some kind."

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...61-exploding-mods-update-february-2012-a.html

Here's expert who could explain 2 batteries issue.

What I meant is the batteries are overheating faster with a low voltage.
Another reason is just practical:why does someone needs 2 batteries 7.4 v mod with the low voltage vapping ? Isn't it more convenient to use an one battery mod (and replace only the one battery )?


Got ya, but ECF's stance doesn't apply here as it is not a tube mod. For one, this is made of plastic and will easily vent any gasses that might cause a problem, it is not a pressure chamber by any stretch of the imagination.

For exclusive low voltage, I actually agree with you here, however, this is not intended to be just a low voltage device, it is for those who want to use all voltages. Maybe someone likes his or her high ohm carto AND a LR and doesn't want to carry two batteries units.

You really shouldn't equate a V8 or similar box mod with a tube mod, they are not the same and perform and react differently.

I am not the slightest bit worried about this mod and have no hesitation at all selling it, I would however have serious hesistation selling a two battery tube mod. I don't like them, I think they inherently unsafe (but mostly because of the inexperienced user)

Proper venting is critical for a tube mod, not so much for one with side by side batteries made of plastic. :)
 

WA3PNT

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And on the side note the batteries discharge unevenly.

If you have two batteries in series that are discharging unevenly, it is because the internal resistance of the batteries are not equal. This could be due to one battery being older than the other, or one battery not being up to spec.

I'd suggest charging both batteries and immediately after installing them check the voltage of each one while under load. I'd bet better than even money that there will be a difference in their voltages, which again indicates that one is not up to spec.

RodeoGeorge
 

caffeinator

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Hopefully a quicky question here...kinda musing out loud as it were.

On account of the charger "issue" on the Ovale V8 kits, would be a better idea for me to buy:

* the body-only (I believe you told me it does come with the adapter as I'm getting a E2 Apollo and want to use it pronto.. :))
* a "real" charger (I planned on getting a multi-battery charger anyways..I don't have a lot of outlets for multiple batts)
* 4 18350 batteries (in rotation, that should last awhile eh)

I won't need the tips or atty from the kit as I have that covered, I can't think of anything else in the kit I'd need?

This way, I'd have a choice of a nice multi-charger and non-generic batteries. I didn't actually add things to the cart, but just a rough guess..I think I could end up paying about the same as the kit price and get a better charger and batteries to boot.

Does that make sense? :2cool:
 

gormly

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Hopefully a quicky question here...kinda musing out loud as it were.

On account of the charger "issue" on the Ovale V8 kits, would be a better idea for me to buy:

* the body-only (I believe you told me it does come with the adapter as I'm getting a E2 Apollo and want to use it pronto.. :))
* a "real" charger (I planned on getting a multi-battery charger anyways..I don't have a lot of outlets for multiple batts)
* 4 18350 batteries (in rotation, that should last awhile eh)

I won't need the tips or atty from the kit as I have that covered, I can't think of anything else in the kit I'd need?

This way, I'd have a choice of a nice multi-charger and non-generic batteries. I didn't actually add things to the cart, but just a rough guess..I think I could end up paying about the same as the kit price and get a better charger and batteries to boot.

Does that make sense? :2cool:

The charger issue is fixed. But yes, even still, in my opinion it would be better to get a better charger and the AW's.
The charger that comes with the kit now is still generic, you can do better, same with the batteries.
 

caffeinator

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The charger issue is fixed. But yes, even still, in my opinion it would be better to get a better charger and the AW's.
The charger that comes with the kit now is still generic, you can do better, same with the batteries.

Thanks!

Yeah, those small kit chargers kinda scare me, though I haven't actually had an issue with one...yet.
I'm in an apt. building that is over 100 years old and last fully remodeled in the 1970's I think. There are two grounded (3-prong) outlets in the whole place, and I don't think those are actually grounded out right as my UPS shows them as all crap. Fortunately, I have a Maha C-9000 charger for my many NiMh AA's and that beasty I do trust. If they still made a Lithium charger, I'd buy it. :)

Probably can find a SysMax/NiteCore Intellicharger i4 V2 for a good price of around $25 shipped (IMHO, it beats the pricer Pila easily), if not then a Pila w/ 32mm spacers for the 18350's or mebbe a XTAR MP2 II.
 
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Data4

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Hi. I ordered an iTaste VV from you about 2 weeks ago, and I love it. I love it so much that when it unexpectedly stopped working a little while ago, I just about freaked out. I'm not sure what happened. The charge is still pretty fresh, but when I press the button, nothing happens. Likewise when I press the 2 buttons for the LED screen. I tried plugging it in to the charger, and what happens is the LED screen will go into what looks like a test pattern, and the main button repeatedly cycles through the red, yellow, and green lights. Red and yellow will blink once, and green blinks 3 times. It repeats this pattern over and over.

My first thought was that the logic in the battery needed to be reset somehow, like when you have to reset portable electronic devices either by holding certain buttons down and powering on, or by a pinhole button (which the iTaste doesn't have, of course). I checked the manual and there was nothing there about this problem. Any idea what could be going on? I've not dropped or otherwise abused the device, and this just happened randomly a little while ago. Thanks!
 

JZXJ

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V8 Issue/Question

Been using my V8 for several weeks. New rubberized Black unit arrived at home, and I'm out on the Rodeo Circuit, so it will be next week before I can use the new unit.

Had an issue arise today with my Black V8. Charged the batteries, filled a CE5+, set the output to 3.2 VOlts, and when I fired the V8 it immediately went to 5.0 Volts and the Blue LED at the switch blinked several times. Thought it might be a shorted CE5+, but checked it with my Provari, and it showed 2.1 Ohms. Also the CE5+ vaped normally on the Provari.

Back on the V8, set to 3.2 Volts, and again the V8 went to 5.0 Volts with a blinking LED. Pulled the batteries for a while, reinstalled the batteries after checking the ego adapter for any short/issues. Also put the adapter on the Provari with the CE5+ to verify it was not an adapter issue.

Back on the V8, and the same problem (5.0 & blinking LED)

Set it aside, and when I tried it about 15 minutes later, it is functioning normally.

Has anyone else experienced this (Did not see it in previous posts)?

Could this be the "overheat" protection kicking in (although the unit was not hot)?

Any help or explanation appreciated..

RodeoGeorge

The adapter is shorting out, reseat it and try not to over tighten your tank,carto, clearo. I noticed the ego adapter that comes with the rubberized V8 is slightly different in design and has not caused this problem yet. The adapter on my original V8 does this all the time if I overtighten or shift it accidentally.
 

Koman

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If you have two batteries in series that are discharging unevenly, it is because the internal resistance of the batteries are not equal. This could be due to one battery being older than the other, or one battery not being up to spec.

I'd suggest charging both batteries and immediately after installing them check the voltage of each one while under load. I'd bet better than even money that there will be a difference in their voltages, which again indicates that one is not up to spec.

RodeoGeorge

Didn't know that about batteries. Thanks for clearing it up!
 

Andyhrn

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Just received my order. Thanks for the fast shipping.
Now a bad news about CE3. 4 of them has damaged connectors (manufacture fault). There's a splinter between central pole and connectors core. Insulation damaged too. Resistance reading is OK but I haven't tried them yet with PV. Opened just one but can see others cartos through the wrap .
View attachment 121881 View attachment 121882
P.s. This is not a splinter. It's a piece of a hard wire sticking out of insolation. Not funny at all.
 
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