DID Repairable Atomizer

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elfstone

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How do you minimize the airy draw of the DID atomizer? Please help!

According to a lot of users of Genesis atties out there, you tend to actually get used to it and, eventually, like it more than tighter draws. The 'trick' is to try to draw very gently / slowly - this will then allow a richer mixture without changing the air intake... Also make sure that the airhole is aligned with the wick, and that all else works well - wicking is good, you have no shorts etc.

That said, some have done several things - I can't vouch for these just passing them on: you can use an appropriately sized syringe needle, measure it up and carefully cut a small segment then lodge it into the hole. You should leave enough sticking in on the inside so you can remove it later, but must be careful not to have it touch the coil / wick. I also read somewhere about painsatkingly carefully place a tiny amount of silver solder (lead free) around the circumference of the hole, but I don't solder so I have no idea how easy or hard that would be.

I prefer an easier draw, if that is what everyone is referring to. Just can't talk myself into buying a tank that costs as much as my PV. Gonna give the Viv Nova a shot first in spite of the mixed reviews here.

Oh, well - and how is the comparison valid? Your APV is a tube. Perhaps with some very basic consumer electronics components inside. It costs what it costs, though, and you get to use it for a long time and the cost is made ok. It keeps you vaping for pennies a day considering replacement batteries every so often...

The same with this - it's not a tank. It will allow you to vape for pennies a day using ever available materials for rebuilding. A wick can last a couple of months maybe more. $70 worth of mesh can last you a year, probably more. Kanthal wire is ridiculously cheap and once you get the hang of it a coil will last several weeks, maybe more. If it works, this thing pays for itself.

According to this post in reference to Scott Bonner's review, manufacturer Jim Damianidis recommends rolling your mesh to the same diameter as the wick hole. I've yet to receive my DID, so I'm ill-equipped to judge the efficacy of this method as pertains to your complaint.

This doesn't have anything to do with the airy draw, but it's a good point - the wick hole in the DID is apparently larger than in other Geneses so it could leak, I guess, if the wick is too thin. I'm also thinking of finding some PTFE insulator that would fit in there and see if I can use it better that way.
 

Monoxxide

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Guess i post this question in here.
I ordered a DID last week, now im trying to get everything here for when it arives.
I did find mesh 325/325 and 400/400 , also got kanthal 32 from ebay.

Now im looking for a gasburner thingy but there are a couple of options out here. Some go to 650 degrees celcius some go up to 1800 degrees celcius. Price ranges go in big jumps to, is there anything i should keep in mind on to wich kind of burner i order or are they all good for wat we use them?
 

martinc

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Guess i post this question in here.
I ordered a DID last week, now im trying to get everything here for when it arives.
I did find mesh 325/325 and 400/400 , also got kanthal 32 from ebay.

Now im looking for a gasburner thingy but there are a couple of options out here. Some go to 650 degrees celcius some go up to 1800 degrees celcius. Price ranges go in big jumps to, is there anything i should keep in mind on to wich kind of burner i order or are they all good for wat we use them?

Got 2 butane burners and 1 pen style that do the job very well from China,like $4 each

Propane tank from the hardware store would do the trick for cheap as well
 
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