We will expect a full report. LOL Pics plz as well.
If it works I will post pics
We will expect a full report. LOL Pics plz as well.
I don't know how far back in this thread it is but what worked for me was 4x1mm buna 70 from Oringsandmore.com.Metric Buna O-rings 4 x 1mm Price for 50 pcs
This is the advice 52anddone gave me and the link to the rings.
ok thanks a lot,
i`m in the UK so not cost effective to get from them but i know what to look for now,
did you fit the o-ring on top of insulator or underneath please?....was there any agreed best way of doing it?
thank you.
hello,
can someone confirm if the best way of doing the o-ring over the centre post to stop leaking is by sitting the o-ring "on top" of the peek insulator or underneath the insulator?......
(only a brief try but i could`nt get the insulator out)
i`ve read through the thread and posts but still not sure if it turned out better one way than the other.
i got some 4x1mm silicone o-rings but when they arrived first impressions were they looked tiny.....measured them and they are 4mm but there is barely a hole in the middle of them,
i tried stretching them over the post but they keep snapping, not enough stretch to them,
even though they`re supposed to be 1mm thick they look like they will be maybe too much of a squeeze as well to get down in the narrow part between the back of the post and the insulator cup.
i will have to try and find some others
For anyone still interested in the "o-ring fix" postings, that conversation starts on page 109 and continues for several pages.
Woah, you are GOOD!!! (how did you ever find that!)
I think just tightening everything up, without bothering with the o-ring at first, is something worth trying. Give it a go and let us know how it works for you.
This is such a great forum and thread with great people willing to help other vapors with advice and or different techniques to improve things.thanks everyone, i will still give it a go.....
i agree, it is a great tank, i`ve had it for quite a while actually but not used it as much as i would like, i`ve always generally had it in rotation but i`d kind of gave up on it as well after all the what the?....why the?....how the? lol with the seeping.
i did learn it`s a tank that needs a bit more care and attention when wicking with stuffing the wick channels and shaping the wick away from the air hole, along with it needing a 3mm ID coil, which i found out the hard way like quite a few did i think, but it`s always seeped at best,
i`ve only generally got through a tank or so before it starts and i don`t think i could wick it any better.
time passed and for some reason i decided to go looking again and found this thread
i have tried tightening the air post under the 510 screw but it did`nt move so pretty sure this has`nt been an issue,
if the o-ring makes only a slight improvement i`ll be happy, i think its worth a try at least for the sake of a pound or two.
and yes this is a long thread lol.....i must of read around half of it going backwards and forwards and luckily found the informative bits for a fix around pages 109 and 114 etc,
but still was`nt sure if i was better going under or above the insulator.
i`ve found the proper o-rings over here so i`ve just got to wait for them to arrive next week sometime and i will let you know how i get on.
thanks again
I started back on page 60 and worked my way up till I "re-found" it. I knew that there were pictures, so I went 2 pages at a time till I got to some pic's then slowed down to Zero in on the posts I wanted.
How ya do'in Kat, Good to see ya.
I'm also in the beginning stages of another experiment with the Siren (22mm and/or 25mm versions), using SS Wire Rope instead of KGD/Rayon for the below deck wicking. I'm just now finding my source for some wire rope to use. Till I get some Wire Rope, I might try to use some SS Mesh (I have a bunch of that already from my Fev 3 and 4) and already know how to roll it I think to fit in the deck wick holes. So (2) experiments I guess.