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Yes, it did go off when I pressed the button. The problem was that I was looking at the pics as if Nico had used a red wire for the pos and neg and totally missed the black negative wire going from the negative side of the battery to the side of the atomizer connector. I was wiring it with pos and neg going to the button.
I was very disheartened and almost gave up. Glad I didn't as I had just spent some money at madvapes ordering batteries, a charger, and another button. I have two extra buttons now. Time for another mod.
I felt like a big dummy.
I was very disheartened and almost gave up. Glad I didn't as I had just spent some money at madvapes ordering batteries, a charger, and another button. I have two extra buttons now. Time for another mod.
I felt like a big dummy.
I just built one of these and let me just say...absolutely awesome design!
I did have one problem, but Im dealing with it for now. I got the parts from Radio Shack(Is it still called that? I thought it was changed). The only 2xAA battery box they had, had the lid separate about halfway in the middle of the box, so the lid was about the same dimensions as the other half of the box, instead of being basically flat. For the most part this did not present a problem, except when drilling the hole for the atty connector. The hole basically went edge to edge on the box, and after pressing in the connector, it kindof warped the box, so that when you put the lid on, it doesn't sit perfectly flush.
I did have one problem, but Im dealing with it for now. I got the parts from Radio Shack(Is it still called that? I thought it was changed). The only 2xAA battery box they had, had the lid separate about halfway in the middle of the box, so the lid was about the same dimensions as the other half of the box, instead of being basically flat. For the most part this did not present a problem, except when drilling the hole for the atty connector. The hole basically went edge to edge on the box, and after pressing in the connector, it kindof warped the box, so that when you put the lid on, it doesn't sit perfectly flush.
Dalton, I can't picture your battery box. Can you take a photo, or post a link to the item you're talking about?
on your battery box, would drilling the atty hole work better on the other end of the box.....
When I first read this post, I thought to myself that there was some reason I couldn't do that... Upon inspecting the box, I suddenly feel like a dumb***...
Enclosed 2 AA Battery Holder : Battery Holders | RadioShack.com
On the bright side, after performing a dry burn, it seems to have heated the box enough that it straightened it out and the lid fits perfectly now.
what about these from MadVapes
Mini Push Button Switch -- Red
For 3.7v I used them myself and they work well, (125vac .5 amp rated)
For 5v you will need (125vac 3 amp rated)
Mini Push Button Switch -- Red
For 3.7v I used them myself and they work well, (125vac .5 amp rated)
For 5v you will need (125vac 3 amp rated)
Those would work nicely. Thank you. I just placed an order with MV for a AA flashlight and a couple more 14500's, so I'll have to wait until the next time I make an order. I feel dumb just ordering a pack of buttons. I wonder if Radioshack has smaller buttons?
Edit: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062539
Edit: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062539
Well that box you chose, the no-switch type is a pain as you have to use the screw to hold on the back. That's all RS has though in 2AA. The ones with the switch just slide/snap on, the screw is not needed.
Your box and switch look like you got them at RS. Didn't they have the 'official' NicoStick switch?
3A 125V SPST Normally Open Pushbutton Momentary Switch - RadioShack.com
As far as the switch you have, if you carefully bend the solder tabs out/flat it could have been installed in the normal position or in the side instead of the bottom.
Your box and switch look like you got them at RS. Didn't they have the 'official' NicoStick switch?
3A 125V SPST Normally Open Pushbutton Momentary Switch - RadioShack.com
As far as the switch you have, if you carefully bend the solder tabs out/flat it could have been installed in the normal position or in the side instead of the bottom.
I had used that button, but it's far too big. I went with the smaller because the wires fit nicely with it.
As for the screw, haven't needed it with this box. It snaps down and doesn't seem to want to come up.
The other two I had built needed the screw, for some reason this one doesn't.
As for the screw, haven't needed it with this box. It snaps down and doesn't seem to want to come up.
The other two I had built needed the screw, for some reason this one doesn't.
You are right, Radio Shack in my hood did have them and I purchase them once. Same switch but cost a bit more than MV.
Why go to all the trouble of building a mod, then use a cheap, vastly under rated switch?
Hey WillyB,
Because at 3.7v you don't need a platinum\aerospace made switch, and mostly because it fits just right and lasts\works almost forever.
I tried some of those so called better made switches for $6.50 on my 5v box and they stop working after a few months, oddly enough when I installed a $2 switch it out performed. If need be I can install 2 more and still be under $6.50.
Quality is good, but it must fit the project plans & budget.
(just from my expirience)
Thank you,
Because at 3.7v you don't need a platinum\aerospace made switch, and mostly because it fits just right and lasts\works almost forever.
I tried some of those so called better made switches for $6.50 on my 5v box and they stop working after a few months, oddly enough when I installed a $2 switch it out performed. If need be I can install 2 more and still be under $6.50.
Quality is good, but it must fit the project plans & budget.
(just from my expirience)
Thank you,
Please remember N\O (normally open) means no electricity passing thru it unless you press the button.
why would you even want to change out a switch, when you can buy one for years of enjoyment (and not very costly at all in the long run)? the link willyb posted is for rated for 3A witch is perfect for pv application since we use +1A of current....
5v or 3.7v dosent really matter, you still need +1A to fire an atty...
just giving my 2cents here not trying to step on toes but willyb made a good point good sir... but now im wondering what this $6.50 dollar switch was... was it under rated? how was it soldered, and how long was it under heat?
edit- oh... its about the size form factor huh, well in a 2xaa mod box... there's plenty of room for a mosfet, well then you would need a master swicth but all in all i think it would be perfect for you if you really want to use those switches... but imho... i dont think it can still be called a nicostick at that point
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