Do Not Dry Fire Atomizers to "Clean" Them!!!

[Rickajho]

How often does everyone do the cleaning and or dry burn? Do you wait for ill effects or be proactive and clean before ill effects?

Once an atty has been used for two weeks I dry burn it weekly or the performance suffers.

When approaching this less is more, especially when you are new to dry burning. You can always come back and dry burn an atty more. But if you fire it too long, or don't wait enough for it to cool some between firings and it pops you can't undo that.

I'm not sure so sure about this matter of burning wick. It has always been my understanding that any proper wick material cannot burn. (Doesn't make sense - if it could burn at all any atty in use would taste like crap with one mistake of letting it get too dry in use.) I've seen video on YouTube of people cleaning wicking material by holding directly to a flame to clean it and it doesn't burn. It will discolor from use - but that's not the same thing. The only time I have had this problem of an atty tasting harsh - in or out of context of a dry burn - is when the atty is too dry and getting the atty properly wet has never failed to correct it.

This applies to plain old attys here. I'm not sure if this applies to CE's Stardust's etc.

 

[zoiDman]

How often does everyone do the cleaning and or dry burn? Do you wait for ill effects or be proactive and clean before ill effects?

What I realized is that an Atty or Fillerless Carto Doesn’t need to be Completely Dry before it is Refilled after Cleaning. So what I do is to Rinse the Atty or Fillerless Carto about every 3ml or so using the Hottest Tap Water I can handle. Then I Shake/Blow out as much water as Possible. The first hit or two will be a little Weak, but after that its fine.

This greatly Prolongs the time between Dry Burns.

I Dry Burn at the First Onset of that Hideous Burnt Marshmallow Taste.

 

[AttyPops]

OK then. Ya had to go there. Want to have some real fun reading? Look for cotton wick vs other wicks forum threads. Just a sec.... (goes searching)...

Here's ONE of many.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/284030-wick-materials-safe-vs-dangerous.html

Now, cotton does burn if dry. It doesn't, however, leave silica shards. Or so the proponents say.

Personally, I avoid dry burns except as a last resort resurrection method. And of course, there's always the debate of exactly what YOUR brand of atty is using for wicking.

 

[martinc]

If you have shards,its probably cheap crap fiberglass;

I vape juices that makes so much gunk on the coil that it forms a hardened bubble around it.

Dry burning it restore everything to new condition.

If you still have a burnt taste,it is because its not properly cleaned;some juice cant go away by simply dry burning,you sometimes need to break the bubble...its litterally like cement.

Now if we are talking about stardusts and the like,there is not much that can be done in that case...if its only caramelized juice,dry burn some more...no need to soak or anything.

Real silica wick WILL withstand a dry burn or 12,real BRAIDED silica wick is even better

 

[hrlw817]

This is Kinda the Entire Point of Dry Burning.

Wait..so to dry-burn, you have to have some kind of liquid in the atty? Anytime someone says or I read anything about dry-burning, there is no mention of this. I have seen countless YouTube vids and not one of them says to "put water or juice into you atty before the dry-burn".

 

[steved5600]

Soaking them in isopropyl alcohol and then rinsing them well works for me.

Everclear or Vodka are safer. If you foget and leave some in then you will vape a toxic alcohol.

 

[steved5600]

The point of dry burning is to burn off the residue that will build up on the atty coil as you use it. Accumulate enough gunk on the coil and the atty becomes useless. The more gunked up it becomes the more likely you are to fire it for longer and longer tmes, trying to get past/beyond/through/over the residue build up to get a liquid to produce vapor. And then you pop the coil in the process. As one vendor I use said, dry burning an atty might kill it by popping a coil. But not dry burning at all will definitely kill it. Accumulated gunk on the coil starts to act like an insulator.

GO to this thread there is some good info here. I'm using it. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...er-cleaned-simple-cheap-effective-method.html

 

[steved5600]

I have been filling up a jewelry cleaner with propanol and running it for a couple of minutes. That seems to clean them pretty good without any dry-burning. I have no idea if it is a "good idea" to put them in an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner filled with alcohol, though. So, if someone thinks this is a terrible idea, please let me know.

propanol the drug. Really. Medication for anxiety.

 

[DC2]

Wait..so to dry-burn, you have to have some kind of liquid in the atty? Anytime someone says or I read anything about dry-burning, there is no mention of this. I have seen countless YouTube vids and not one of them says to "put water or juice into you atty before the dry-burn".

You absolutely MUST rinse your atomizer thoroughly before dry-burning.
If you don't then you definitely are not doing it right.

Just read the thread I linked to earlier in this thread.
It explains a couple of reasons why rinsing before AND after are both very important.

 

[hrlw817]

You absolutely MUST rinse your atomizer thoroughly before dry-burning.
If you don't then you definitely are not doing it right.

Just read the thread I linked to earlier in this thread.
It explains a couple of reasons why rinsing before AND after are both very important.

I have read your thread, quite a few times actually in the past, and it really doesn't say, "leave the atty wet to dry burn". I guess I have been misunderstanding this info. I was always led to believe that you rinse out the atty, then blow through it, then dry-burn. In my mind, "blow through it" means there is no water left in the atty, therefore, the atty is dry. I also think that if there is water in the atty, it will drip on the battery and ruin it.

 

[vsummer1]

I have read your thread, quite a few times actually in the past, and it really doesn't say, "leave the atty wet to dry burn". I guess I have been misunderstanding this info. I was always led to believe that you rinse out the atty, then blow through it, then dry-burn. In my mind, "blow through it" means there is no water left in the atty, therefore, the atty is dry. I also think that if there is water in the atty, it will drip on the battery and ruin it.

Um, DRY burning is just that. After you rinse, you pulse the atty until you can see the coil glow all the way across.

As for the water dripping into the battery, I think most people are using manual's now which are sealed. And why would there be water anywhere near the battery anyway? You take the atty OFF the battery to rinse it. If you have wicks, you pat them dry then burn the coil? There will be some water left in the mesh, but that too burns off pretty quickly.

 

[hrlw817]

Um, DRY burning is just that. After you rinse, you pulse the atty until you can see the coil glow all the way across.

As for the water dripping into the battery, I think most people are using manual's now which are sealed. And why would there be water anywhere near the battery anyway? You take the atty OFF the battery to rinse it. If you have wicks, you pat them dry then burn the coil? There will be some water left in the mesh, but that too burns off pretty quickly.

See, THIS info makes sense to me. Rinse out the atty, then dry burn while it's still damp. Maybe this is why I am failing at dry burns. I rinse, then wait a bit, then dry burn. The atty is usually fairly dry by now. Thanks for the clarification. As far as getting water in the battery, I mean any water that is left over in the atty can drip onto the battery. I guess if juice can get on the battery, it won't harm it. With autos, I know this can kill them. I am one of those people that if it says, "shake for 30 seconds" I will shake for 30 seconds. No more, usually no less. So, if someone says, "rinse out your atty, blow it out, then dry-burn" I take it exactly as that.

 

[jtpjc]

So, dry burning means burn the wick dry, NOT heat a dry wick? I can see how this concept might be misinterpreted. I did.

 

[tooBerk]

I start dry burn right after i rinse out the atty well. It all takes 5-10 mins and i'm good to go.
Using biansi imist 2.2ohm atty.

 

[vsummer1]

See, THIS info makes sense to me. Rinse out the atty, then dry burn while it's still damp. Maybe this is why I am failing at dry burns. I rinse, then wait a bit, then dry burn. The atty is usually fairly dry by now. Thanks for the clarification. As far as getting water in the battery, I mean any water that is left over in the atty can drip onto the battery. I guess if juice can get on the battery, it won't harm it. With autos, I know this can kill them. I am one of those people that if it says, "shake for 30 seconds" I will shake for 30 seconds. No more, usually no less. So, if someone says, "rinse out your atty, blow it out, then dry-burn" I take it exactly as that.

Look, all that burning is going to dry the wick anyway so, kind of "self-drying" once the heat is applied.

 

[Rudy956]

I bought This and I find its working extremely well.

 

[zoiDman]

See, THIS info makes sense to me. Rinse out the atty, then dry burn while it's still damp. Maybe this is why I am failing at dry burns. I rinse, then wait a bit, then dry burn. The atty is usually fairly dry by now. Thanks for the clarification. As far as getting water in the battery, I mean any water that is left over in the atty can drip onto the battery. I guess if juice can get on the battery, it won't harm it. With autos, I know this can kill them. I am one of those people that if it says, "shake for 30 seconds" I will shake for 30 seconds. No more, usually no less. So, if someone says, "rinse out your atty, blow it out, then dry-burn" I take it exactly as that.

So, dry burning means burn the wick dry, NOT heat a dry wick? I can see how this concept might be misinterpreted. I did.

My concept of a Dry Burn is to apply Power to the Coil until all the "Gunk" is burned to Ash. About the same Concept as a Self-Cleaning Oven.

But I know that an Atomizer Coil has a Limited Lifespan. And that lifespan is governed by how many Minutes the Coil is Heated to Vaping Temperatures. And How Many Seconds it is Heated to Red Hot Dry Burn Temperatures.

So my approach to Dry Burning is to do Anything that can Minimize the Time the Power is Applied to the Coil Wire.

If I soak a Coil/Wick in White Vinegar or Gently Brush it with a Dentek Brush, Much of the Gunk is removed Reducing the Time Needed under power when Dry Burning.

Same with starting with a Semi-Cleaned, Rinsed and Dried Wick. A Dry Wick takes Less Time to Reach the Temperatures needed to Burn the Gunk to Ash.

If you want to start with a Wick that is Wet, no problem. You will Eventually get to a point where All the Moister is Evaporated and the Gunk will start to Burn. Just Smash Down the Power Button and Wait. You will be using up some of the Lifespan of the Atomizer Wire by doing so but you will sooner or later get to a point where a Dry Burn happens.

 

[vsummer1]

My concept on that is that I would have to dump a gunky atty anyway, so it is time bought on the use of the atty not lost

 

[zoiDman]

...

Just read the thread I linked to earlier in this thread.
It explains a couple of reasons why rinsing before AND after are both very important.

I haven't read that Thread but I agree that Rinsing After you Dry Burn is a Must.

And BTW... If you want to use the Atty/Filler-Less Carto right after you Dry Burn, you Don't have to wait until the Wick is completely dry to use it.

Just Shake/Blow it out and Fill It. The first 2 or 3 hits will be a Tad Weak (I Don't inhale the first couple of Hits after a Dry Burn anyway) but after that it is fine.

 

[zoiDman]

My concept on that is that I would have to dump a gunky atty anyway, so it is time bought on the use of the atty not lost

I tend to use 5 or 6 Attys/Filler-Less Cartos in Rotation.

I use one rinsing and Dentek-ing at every Refill until it needs to be Dry Bmrned. Then I put it in a Shot Glass and move on to another Attys/Filler-Less Carto.

When the Shot Glass gets to the point where I can't put anymore in, or I get tired of looking at it, I do a Vingar Soak of All the Attys/Filler-Less Cartos, Rinse and the Complete Dry by wedging them in the Grille of a Floor Fan.

When there all Completely Dry, I do a Dry Burn Session while I'm watching TV. Dry Burning while the Dallas Cowboys are being Beat is a Great Time. Then I rinse them out again and Wedge them back into the Fan.

Now I have 5 or 6 Ready to Go Attys/Filler-Less Cartos and the Cycle repeats.