I have three ProVarii. Not one extended warranty have I purchased. I don't think that this fact makes the extended warranty a "rip off", but I do agree with your sentiment.
Does the MOD really Matter
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I have three ProVarii. Not one extended warranty have I purchased. I don't think that this fact makes the extended warranty a "rip off", but I do agree with your sentiment.
Ummm no. I didn't come for knowledge and had no idea it was going to turn into a long drawn out boring all about The Darwin thread.....justifications by it's owners I've already read before. I stupidly kept reading thinking it would get back to whether the mod really matters.
Well... we did establish that the Mod really matters
. The conclusion was... Buy a Provari... 
Well... we did establish that the Mod really matters
That is pretty far from my conclusion.
3.5 amp limit....
Build yourself a mech...
Well... we did establish that the Mod really matters......
Yep.......the only mod that really matters is the one you like.....
Yep.......the only mod that really matters is the one you like.....
That is pretty far from my conclusion.
3.5 amp limit....
Build yourself a mech...
If you are using a 1.2 ohm coil, you are limited to 3.5 amps. And only when you have a fresh battery can you use that many.
4.2/1.2=3.5
4/1.2=3.33
etc.
I run a 1.2 ohm coil all battery long with no loss of voltage even with the last draw on my ProVari. There is zero advantage to a mechanical, and many disadvantages, when coil ohms are 1.2. It is only below that resistance that the mechanical begins to assert its unregulated advantages.
Tapped out
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I wish that were true. Every mod I've purchased (other than the ProVari) has lasted longer than a month, but less than six months. 2 Vamos, 3 twists, one winder, one eGo passthough and one regular eGo. I should have just purchased a second ProVari.
Edit: though to be fair, the electronics in all but one of those was not the point of failure.
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You guys take all this way to serious, my joking around tends to get me in trouble but eh. I had fun getting there.I found the key to life once, only to find the lock was broken, since then I have found lots of neat places to stick that key!!!
Sent from my: Etch A Sketch
Just a friendly post to set the record strait.....
Evolv had a policy to warranty the Darwin and would send out a "loaner" Darwin before the customer had to send their unit in for warranty repair (most repairs were for minor tweaks as the units were still vapable). That way the customer would have a Darwin to use during the time the warranty work was being done. The unit would be then sent in, repaired and sent back to the owner with the "loaner Darwin" to be returned to Evolv.....The need to show "proof of purchase" came to be because some customers were not sending the "loaner Darwins" back.....thus they were stealing the "loaner" and selling it (no proof of purchase on these stolen units). Thus, the stolen units could not be warrantied, nor could worn out batteries be replaced for 25 bucks.....and the Evolv's 2 year warranty was transferrable also should the original purchaser decide to sell their unit.........
NOTE: a post from 2011...... note the word stolen.....
First of all I would like to Thank everyone for their input on this thread and constructive criticisms throughout...
Secondly you were dead on in your posts about his inaccurate, information and inability to answer the questions.
1. There are no Plastic switches
2. There is no way the arm could ever spin 360 degrees
3. Why is he, NOT answering the question about The Darwin, a loaner that he never returned (therefore Stolen) and continues to divert from why he didn't have it repaired and sell it.
I think those that care will be able to read through his posts and see where the fault lies here...
The weirdest thing about the whole thread is that I have never received any any repair requests from he OP of the thread. The item she is upset with are easily fixed and completely covered under The Warranty??? Oh well I guess we will see where that goes.
Thanks again to EVERYONE that posted and showed your Trust in Evolv and NHaler
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Mechanicals have many advantages beyond the ability to deliver amazing power at low resistance.
Mechanical Advantages:
- Very simple.
- Very cheap to buy. Easy to make. Easy to repair.
- Nearly unbreakable... Limited only by the metal used to make it.... Solid stainless steel anyone? Will survive EMP...
- Will survive getting wet / water submerged... Other than the individual cell. (Juice leaking through your 510-connector into your precious regulating circuitry?)
- Power efficient. No wasted power on electronics, PWM, LEDs, etc.
- Size efficient. Only as big as required to 'house' battery cell, switch connector and a spring.
- Power output only limited by cell.
- No circuitry to 'fry' from overloading / shorting. Sure the provari may not do this...very often... but I've had friends bring me vamos, lavatubes, ego-twists and other regulated devices with fried mosfets a plenty.
- Safe to use Genesis style atomizers... Stainless Steel wicks without a short destroying your device.
- You should be using IMR batteries anyway... Might as well get their potential out of them...
- Allows for high power sub-ohm builds (.50 - 1.0 ohms)
For 4.2/.5 = 8.4 amps = 35.3 watts...
or 4.2/1.0 = 4.2 amps = 17.6 watts...
or anywhere in between you could desire... I tend to prefer .7 ohms.
So... question about mechanicals....
If you know NOTHING about batteries or building or anything... can you just screw a tank on out of the box, stick a battery in the mechanical, and vape, with no adjusting besides the volt to taste (because you know nothing about voltage, just whether your juice tastes burnt or flavorless with no vapor)... and it just works, with nothing else to fiddle with ever for years?
Do they have the same safety precautions as Provaris do? That is, it will shut off if the atomizer has a problem, instead of ever blowing up?
If you know NOTHING about batteries or building or anything... can you just screw a tank on out of the box, stick a battery in the mechanical, and vape, with no adjusting besides the volt to taste (because you know nothing about voltage, just whether your juice tastes burnt or flavorless with no vapor)... and it just works, with nothing else to fiddle with ever for years?
Do they have the same safety precautions as Provaris do? That is, it will shut off if the atomizer has a problem, instead of ever blowing up?
If you know nothing about anything... I don't know of a single atomizer / coil that will screw onto any device, mech or provari, and be good for "years". Assuming you know "NOTHING" about voltage or batteries or anything, using a Provari might also be outside of your comprehension level. Being as it adjusts voltage.
Safer chemistry high drain IMR cells are not going to spontaneously 'explode'. These are also what the Provari 'requires'. A mechanicals only safety fuse is the coil being melted/breaking the circuit or a hot-spring melting from too much power draw.
But on a whole to answer your question.. Yes. You could get a pre-made clearomizer / cartomizer between 1.8 and 2.4 ohms (pro-tank, ce4/stardust, boge with tank, etc.) screw it onto a mechanical and be vaping away happily for some time. If 1.8 ohms is too hot for you, get a 2 or 2.4 ohm pre-made atomizer head. You could even get a savvy friend or B&M employee to build you a 1.2 ohm microcoil on cotton in one of your device for a real treat...
To be honest in the situation of a complete idiot... They are probably best off with either a mechanical with a protected cell or a standard ego battery regulated to 3.7 volts.
Your post seems to be imply that a Provari, or other VV/VW device, is quite simply idiot proof, and ready to go. I would disagree. You need to understand ohms law, the current limitation of the device, etc. If using a 1.2 ohm coils you couldn't go beyond 4.2 volts. If using a 2 ohm device you can go up to 6 volts. But to actually get a handle on your Provari experience you need to understand watts, voltage, current, resistance and their relationships.
IF you knew none of that, and your device was too hot at 4.2 volts and turning it up said ERROR... What would you do? Suffer if you didn't realize v = I*R and thus you had to increase the resistance to reduce the power to be within the current limitations at a voltage higher than 4.2..
If you want a big satisfying cloud... how do you achieve it on the Provari? Without some knowledge and picking an optimal resistance and voltage you are shooting in the dark.
Safer chemistry high drain IMR cells are not going to spontaneously 'explode'. These are also what the Provari 'requires'. A mechanicals only safety fuse is the coil being melted/breaking the circuit or a hot-spring melting from too much power draw.
But on a whole to answer your question.. Yes. You could get a pre-made clearomizer / cartomizer between 1.8 and 2.4 ohms (pro-tank, ce4/stardust, boge with tank, etc.) screw it onto a mechanical and be vaping away happily for some time. If 1.8 ohms is too hot for you, get a 2 or 2.4 ohm pre-made atomizer head. You could even get a savvy friend or B&M employee to build you a 1.2 ohm microcoil on cotton in one of your device for a real treat...
To be honest in the situation of a complete idiot... They are probably best off with either a mechanical with a protected cell or a standard ego battery regulated to 3.7 volts.
Your post seems to be imply that a Provari, or other VV/VW device, is quite simply idiot proof, and ready to go. I would disagree. You need to understand ohms law, the current limitation of the device, etc. If using a 1.2 ohm coils you couldn't go beyond 4.2 volts. If using a 2 ohm device you can go up to 6 volts. But to actually get a handle on your Provari experience you need to understand watts, voltage, current, resistance and their relationships.
IF you knew none of that, and your device was too hot at 4.2 volts and turning it up said ERROR... What would you do? Suffer if you didn't realize v = I*R and thus you had to increase the resistance to reduce the power to be within the current limitations at a voltage higher than 4.2..
If you want a big satisfying cloud... how do you achieve it on the Provari? Without some knowledge and picking an optimal resistance and voltage you are shooting in the dark.
Sorry buddy, you would be right when comparing a mech to most regulated devices, but when compared to a ProVari, I'm going to have to agree with EddardinWinter on this one.
Once I show someone how to turn the power (voltage) up and down on a ProVari. That's usually all they need to know to get started. I understand ohm's law, watts, voltage, current, and resistance, but I still screw the atomizer on, adjust the voltage until it tastes good and happily vape...without once needing an understanding of everything you wrote.
For example, if I knew how to completely tear apart and rebuild my truck's engine, would that add to my enjoyment of driving said truck? Probably. Do I need to know how to to do that in order to drive it? Of course not. The same applies here.
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No... the Provari is idiot proof. I'm evidence of that. I'm a smart person, but I don't have ANY real interest in electricity or mechanics (which means the RBA I'm getting will be a challenge). I want something that works for idiots.
You went right off on a tangent, I wasn't talking about what you screw into the battery, I was talking about the battery. But yes, my first atomizer was an iclear 16, and all I literally did was squish juice into it, screw it on my MVP2 and vape. Then, I got a Vivi Nova BDC and Protank 2, and that's all I did. Squish juice into them, and vape. And when the vape got yucky, I unscrewed the head, threw it away, screwed in another and vaped. there is no mechanics involved, other than the ability to open a jar of peanut butter.
When I got my Provari, all I did was unscrew my Vivi Nova tank from my MVP2, and screw it onto my Provari, and vaped. That's it.
That's called idiot proof, because an idiot can open a jar of peanut butter, and that's all the skillset I needed.
Frankly, I didn't even know how to set my Provari when I got it. I didn't check a single button, I just screwed my topper, added a battery and vaped. And didn't bother to figure out the buttons for a week or so (I THINK the default setting is 4.0 or 4.2). And after I figured it out, I changed the setting once... because my juice tasted burnt. Then, I was right back there again doing nothing.
It took another week or 2 before I decided I should figure out what the buttons were for... nor did I ever turn it on or off, because I didn't know how, and didn't care. You mean everyone doesn't turn off their units by unscrewing and removing the battery? That's still how I do it. It stays on when the battery goes back in, and is off when the battery comes out. What's to know?
Now, about 2 1/2 months into vaping, I'm learning about RBA. I STILL don't know much about it, I haven't done it yet, but given that I bought a bunch of them, I'm going to figure them out.
The point was... I didn't need to. I could have continued to use my Provari happily with only the ability to open a jar of peanut butter.
Now is that true of a Mechanical? Which one? I'm not being sarcastic, I really would like to know. All the mechanical sites confuse the heck of of me, wiring, ohms, volts, meters. What the heck. I just want something I can screw a $10 vivi nova into and vape, just like I can with a Provari.
. I'm a smart person, but I don't have ANY real interest in electricity or mechanics (which means the RBA I'm getting will be a challenge). I want something that works for idiots. You went right off on a tangent, I wasn't talking about what you screw into the battery, I was talking about the battery. But yes, my first atomizer was an iclear 16, and all I literally did was squish juice into it, screw it on my MVP2 and vape. Then, I got a Vivi Nova BDC and Protank 2, and that's all I did. Squish juice into them, and vape. And when the vape got yucky, I unscrewed the head, threw it away, screwed in another and vaped. there is no mechanics involved, other than the ability to open a jar of peanut butter.
When I got my Provari, all I did was unscrew my Vivi Nova tank from my MVP2, and screw it onto my Provari, and vaped. That's it.
That's called idiot proof, because an idiot can open a jar of peanut butter, and that's all the skillset I needed.
Frankly, I didn't even know how to set my Provari when I got it. I didn't check a single button, I just screwed my topper, added a battery and vaped. And didn't bother to figure out the buttons for a week or so (I THINK the default setting is 4.0 or 4.2). And after I figured it out, I changed the setting once... because my juice tasted burnt. Then, I was right back there again doing nothing.
It took another week or 2 before I decided I should figure out what the buttons were for... nor did I ever turn it on or off, because I didn't know how, and didn't care. You mean everyone doesn't turn off their units by unscrewing and removing the battery? That's still how I do it. It stays on when the battery goes back in, and is off when the battery comes out. What's to know?
Now, about 2 1/2 months into vaping, I'm learning about RBA. I STILL don't know much about it, I haven't done it yet, but given that I bought a bunch of them, I'm going to figure them out.
The point was... I didn't need to. I could have continued to use my Provari happily with only the ability to open a jar of peanut butter.
Now is that true of a Mechanical? Which one? I'm not being sarcastic, I really would like to know. All the mechanical sites confuse the heck of of me, wiring, ohms, volts, meters. What the heck. I just want something I can screw a $10 vivi nova into and vape, just like I can with a Provari.
I'm afraid that is exactly the same kind of response you would get from 90% of ProVari owners (the ones who don't even know this forum exists and also don't know mechanical mods exist). All they know about ProVari is that Heidi Klum owns one, so it must be good, right?
I think you're thinking Kathleen Heigle, I'm pretty sure Heidi Klum never smoked.
.
Well, earlier in this thread you said you liked 1.2 ohms. I don't want to argue with you. If you like mechanicals, fine. They are nice and offer unregulated power advantages below 1.2 ohms, I agree with you on that. I own and love two mechanicals.
But I observe you only note power at 4.2 volts...my ProVari can put out 4.2 from the first press of the battery until the last. A mechanical, unless on a kick (which is technically no longer a mechanical) can only put out 4.2 volts for a few draws. Quickly, the battery will drain to the 3 volt ranges. The consistency of a ProVari output is very appealing to my vaping profile.
I see PlanofMan has already replied to your bulletin points, so I move forward without further comment.
Tapped out
the more facts the better...... I use kicks and now a dna 20 so I think Evolv is worth supporting.
If you must say VV / VW is superior to straight mechanical... The kick 2 really seems to be the best bet:
Output Power: 5 Watts to 15 Watts
Output Voltage: 2 Volts to 6.3 Volts
Output Current: 6 Amps
atomizer resistances: 0.5 Ohms to 3.3 Ohms
low battery cutoff: 2.7 Volts loaded
Output Power: 5 Watts to 15 Watts
Output Voltage: 2 Volts to 6.3 Volts
Output Current: 6 Amps
atomizer resistances: 0.5 Ohms to 3.3 Ohms
low battery cutoff: 2.7 Volts loaded
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