Dripbox 2 is here

[kbriggs]

But I'm more curious whether your battery gauge is accurate? Is the cutoff too early at say 3.7V?

It never actually cuts off. It continues to output less and less voltage well after 0 bars. But 3.7 is the "nominal" voltage for an 18650 so that should be near the 50% mark (not the 20% mark) and should be able to still produce the expected output. But I'm seeing reduced output when the battery still has 3.85 volts in it. The only other single battery regulated mod I have is my eVic Mini so I'll probably try the same test on it when I get a chance.

Currently I replaced my .39 fused clapton build with a .97 round-wire build and was running it at 30 watts tonight. Which, by the way, produces a lousy vape in my Goon 24 compared to what I'm used to. The sacrifices I make for science. Anyway, I'm still at 5 bars after an hour so this will have to continue tomorrow.

 

[kbriggs]

So I finished my low wattage experiment (0.97 ohms at 30 watts) and experienced no voltage drop until I hit 0 bars on the battery indicator. It put out a consistent 5.4 volts over a 3.5 hour period of heavy chain vaping before dropping to 5.1 volts at 0 bars. I took the battery out at that point where my charger showed it had 3.55 volts in it. I put that battery in my eVic Mini and the gauge there showed roughly 25% to 30% left.

So I think it still quits a little early but if I was a low wattage vapor I wouldn't really have any complaints. The real problem is vaping over 60 watts. That's where I got the premature voltage drops before the battery indicator hit 0 bars. But to make sure I'm being fair I plan to run my 0.39/65 watt build in my eVic Mini (all my other mods are dual or triple battery) and see how far it will maintain the correct voltage output.

 

[business2091]

Ah thanks for the experiment. I used to go higher and higher in wattage use with all the development in coil builds and the push of high watt devices on the market, until the point my cheap soul kicks in and don't want me to go through tons of juice anymore lol. So I went back to single coil and no longer use past 30W. I guess you were the more appropriate one to test the high wattage performance of this device

Sent from my Pixel

 

[kbriggs]

I had an interesting result with my eVic Mini test to compare against the DB2. I put the same 30Q battery in it and topped it with another Goon with the same single fused clapton build as my first test. Except it read at 0.40 instead of 0.39. I set it for the same 65 watts. Now the eVic does not show a live voltage reading while firing, just the static calculated voltage of 5.10. But it does give a live amp reading, which was 12.7 for that build and wattage. And it held that for the first 90 minutes of heavy use, where the battery indicator was still at about 67% full. So at that point it looked like it would blow away the DB2. But then at the 2 hour mark, I noticed the amp output had dropped to 12.1 (which calculates out to 4.8v) while the battery indicator still showed about 55% full. I then removed the battery and measured it and it showed 3.81 volts in my charger.

So the eVic gauge more accurately reflected the charge left in the battery (compared to the DB2) but it had the opposite problem of reflecting how much of a full power vape you had left. Both of them starting dropping output voltage at around 3.8 volts remaining in the battery. So the DB2 gauge was actually more accurate that the eVic in that regard, which is the more important metric. But the eVic lasted 30 minutes more getting there. I guess the main lesson is that I need a dual battery squonker.

 

[GeorgeS]

@kbriggs thanks for the experiments.

I use my DB2 in TC mode with a fairly low power build. While the pessimistic battery gauge is troubling for my OCD (I've never been able to bring myself to discharge to a "battery low" or some such message) I've resigned the DB2 to "at home" use as the dismal battery indicator would drive me nuts while out and about.

Its hard to say if Kanger will ever provide us a firmware update to fix the battery gauge or not.

 

[zoiDman]

I had an interesting result with my eVic Mini test to compare against the DB2. I put the same 30Q battery in it and topped it with another Goon with the same single fused clapton build as my first test. Except it read at 0.40 instead of 0.39. I set it for the same 65 watts. Now the eVic does not show a live voltage reading while firing, just the static calculated voltage of 5.10. But it does give a live amp reading, which was 12.7 for that build and wattage. And it held that for the first 90 minutes of heavy use, where the battery indicator was still at about 67% full. So at that point it looked like it would blow away the DB2. But then at the 2 hour mark, I noticed the amp output had dropped to 12.1 (which calculates out to 4.8v) while the battery indicator still showed about 55% full. I then removed the battery and measured it and it showed 3.81 volts in my charger.

So the eVic gauge more accurately reflected the charge left in the battery (compared to the DB2) but it had the opposite problem of reflecting how much of a full power vape you had left. Both of them starting dropping output voltage at around 3.8 volts remaining in the battery. So the DB2 gauge was actually more accurate that the eVic in that regard, which is the more important metric. But the eVic lasted 30 minutes more getting there. I guess the main lesson is that I need a dual battery squonker.

One thing I'll throw out there is that Some (Many?) Mods do not Accurately Output displayed Voltages/Wattages when you approach the Top End of their Voltage/Wattage range.

I'm not an eVic Mini owner. So I can't speak for what eVic Mini does when it is set at the Top End of the Wattage Range. Only that I have seen many Output Graphs for mods that show a Fall Off when they are set to the top end of their range.

BTW - Is this the Battery you were using while doing the above Testing?

Samsung INR18650-30Q 15A 3000mAh Bench Test Results

For a Regulated Mod that has 90% Efficiency, 65 watts for a Battery outputting 3.81 volts, you would have a Battery Amp Draw of about 18.96 amps.

That would be as hard (if not a little over the edge) as I would want to Push that Battery.

 

[kbriggs]

BTW - Is this the Battery you were using while doing the above Testing?
Samsung INR18650-30Q 15A 3000mAh Bench Test Results

Yes, but note that Samsung gives it a very conservative amp rating. Mooch's test shows it to be a true 20A battery whereas the browns LG's are really only 18A.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachments/image-jpeg.600623/#subs

I don't remember if I mentioned it in this thread but I also tried an LG HB6 battery in the DB2, which is a true 30A battery but with only 1500 mah capacity. It gave me half the full power vape (only 45 minutes) and then starting dropping voltage.

 

[zoiDman]

Yes, but note that Samsung gives it a very conservative amp rating. Mooch's test shows it to be a true 20A battery whereas the browns LG's are really only 18A.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachments/image-jpeg.600623/#subs

I don't remember if I mentioned it in this thread but I also tried an LG HB6 battery in the DB2, which is a true 30A battery but with only 1500 mah capacity. It gave me half the full power vape (only 45 minutes) and then starting dropping voltage.

just wanted to mention it for Anyone reading that post.

Because some readers may Focus on the Frontend Amp Draw (at the Atomizer) verses the Backend Amp Draw (at the Battery) when thinking about a Regulated Mod.

 

[Lim_Vap3]

I recently bought a kangertech dripbox 2, when my 18650 is fully charged and I use device the battery last for about 30-45 minutes in the dripbox this surely isn't normal, what cause this? Is my device faulty. My wattage is between 30-45

 

[business2091]

I recently bought a kangertech dripbox 2, when my 18650 is fully charged and I use device the battery last for about 30-45 minutes in the dripbox this surely isn't normal, what cause this? Is my device faulty. My wattage is between 30-45

Return it while you can. It's a faulty one, although all the newer ones seem to be "faulty", now that "faulty" seems to become the synonym of "norm" for this product.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[retired1]

I recently bought a kangertech dripbox 2, when my 18650 is fully charged and I use device the battery last for about 30-45 minutes in the dripbox this surely isn't normal, what cause this? Is my device faulty. My wattage is between 30-45

Enough. Cross posting the same question all over ECF is not permitted.

 

[zoiDman]

I recently bought a kangertech dripbox 2, when my 18650 is fully charged and I use device the battery last for about 30-45 minutes in the dripbox this surely isn't normal, what cause this? Is my device faulty. My wattage is between 30-45

What type of Batteries are you using?

 

[business2091]

How's everyone's mod holding up? Mine started peeling in the same manner as it has done on my Dripbox 160. If it weren't for a high price ($40+ vs $26 that I had paid) and the possibility of getting a faulty one (early cutoff), I would get a new one just to make it through the wait for next interesting product. But now I have to keep touching the peeled paint everyday into the summer.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[jblack741]

Ok just got my dripbox2 after getting the dripbox160 because I am very happy with it. The DB2 is solid and I like the performance... but!!!!.... I can't turn my unit off! (5 presses of fire button). When I try to turn the unit off it simply switches modes (watts, tt, ti, ss). I contacted Kanger and they said they had a firmware download and sent me the link... ok I said great and got the download. It's not a firmware file but the frontend to their version of escribe... So now i'm waiting to here back from them behind my PC rant. I believe this issue can be resolved with a firmware fix and don't want to go through the hassles of returning the unit to the retailer.