I haven't tested any XL cartos, but there seems to be still big issues with regular size. Even if I dry burn them, they still have some burning taste in them. My pictures above are from my standard size R4 and you can clearly see where that burning taste is coming. Coil is burnt in black and it is clearly the source for this. It seems to me that the coil has also burnt that wicking material in two pieces. I suppose thw wicking material should be in loops also in standard size cartos.
E2 Revision 4 Cartomizer Discussion
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I haven't tested any XL cartos, but there seems to be still big issues with regular size. Even if I dry burn them, they still have some burning taste in them. My pictures above are from my standard size R4 and you can clearly see where that burning taste is coming. Coil is burnt in black and it is clearly the source for this. It seems to me that the coil has also burnt that wicking material in two pieces. I suppose thw wicking material should be in loops also in standard size cartos.
The black you see on your coil and wick builds up on all cartomizers and atomizers. The only thing really different now is that the E2 has it out in the open for all the world to see.
My own personal experience is that I got marginally better performance with my r3 & 3.5 ptb modded shorts than I am getting with my r4 xl's. I have felt forced to mod the r4's with ptb as well to get decent performance from them. I wish now that I had ordered some r4 shorts so I could have made a better comparison to the r3's that I am still using in rotation with the r4's.
The r4 for me was a disapointment. Yes it works and blows filler cartos away. My disappointment lies in the fact they perform no better than the r3's. In fact the flavor of at least one juice I use (TV waffles) is less distinct. The filler ring is even harder to remove for the first time without destroying it. The sleeve on the cup makes ptb modding more difficult.
Just to be clear I'm using the 510 versions with an eGo batt.
I should get my shorties on Monday and I'll post what I think about the camparison with the R3 XL's.
Btw, am I missing something in this cartomizer cause I can't figure out why there is two separate holes for filling e-liquid?
The liquid is going in the same tank isn't it?
I could just take out the filler ring and put my 0.8 ml e-liquid directly from the side and put another middle-ring without holes from another carto in the same place where the filler ring was and then put the original middle ring back and then my drip-tip.
The liquid is going in the same tank isn't it?
I could just take out the filler ring and put my 0.8 ml e-liquid directly from the side and put another middle-ring without holes from another carto in the same place where the filler ring was and then put the original middle ring back and then my drip-tip.
Yes. The liquid is going into the same tank and there is no real reason for two filler ports. I generally yank the filler ring out and use a syringe to fill down the side of the cup much as you describe.
And again - yes - once the filler ring is gone you can use the other ring, flat side against the cup, to seal things with your drip tip or the stock mouth piece in place after that.
It's my opinion that these things are being manufactured by people that aren't really testing what they produce. It looks like they just got lucky with the basic unit and then totally dropped the ball with the filler ring design, wicks, etc.
I guess it really doesn't matter to the fly by night Chinese manufacturers. Make a few bucks on this or that and then just completely retool to produce another product. Today it's E2's. Tomorrow, who knows?
These definitely wick MUCH better without the filler ring in. So far I'm running 50/50 on whether or not they leak without the filler ring.
One hole is for filling and the other hole is required for an air vent.
Are you using something to replace the filler ring nav, or vaping them on an open reservoir?
I pull the filler ring and use two middle rings with my drip tip. The drip tip tightens up against the two rings and makes a really good seal against the top of the cup. Some of them leak from the slots and some don't like this.
That tells me what I needed to know. My findings about leaks are the same as yours. Some leak and some don't. However, some leaks happen between the stem of the cup and the metal tube. The shrink tubing usually seals it, but this seal can be broken when disturbed. This can easily happen when the filler ring is pried from the cup. It can be shrunk back down with heat, but not without removing the assembly from the tube.
But then, a few do leak at the slots. You can usually stop this leak by replacing the filler ring with a white rubber mouthpiece. The groove on the under side is an exact fit on the rim of the cup. If nothing else, it may tell you if the leak is at the slots or the cup stem.
I've successfully used this mouthpiece numerous times without any heat damage from the coil. It's much easier to install and remove than an original filler ring. You've probably seen me write on this subject before, but I repeated it here mostly for the benefit for others who may not have seen it.
I tried the white mouth piece and it changed the flavor and left a brown spot on the bottom of the rubber which tells me the rubber can't take the heat.
I pop the filler rings out and just stick the little flat bottom ring back in against the cup, saves me literally minutes of fannying around on refills and doesn't seem to make any difference to performance or leaking.
Brown spots also occur on the original filler ring. Usually more than on the white one. Worse yet on banjo's.
... which is one of the reasons I use the middle ring now. That silicone middle ring is pretty tough. No signs of melting or stain-age.
I've used the middle one too. They are made out of the same thing as the filler ring, but the flats do not get as close to the coil. However, some of them leaked on a few of my E2's. I have not done extensive testing with any of them though, because I usually use my brass filler tips.
You sure about that? The filler rings I have here appear to be made out of lighter stuff than the middle rings. I've had a few leak a little into the airtube as well, but I just figured that particular carto had a wick/slot combo prone to letting juice get in the cup.
I find on those the best thing to do is just lay them down on something that will elevate the mouthpiece slightly. I have a drink coaster on my bed table that's about 1/8" think and it seems to be enough of an incline to do the job.
I'm not absolutely sure. They both look and feel the same to me, and both burn the same with a torch.
And yes. I figure that a particular carto has a wick/slot combo prone to letting juice get in the cup. That's why I use a white mouthpiece to eliminate it, heheh. I'm looking at one right now. It is an R3.5 with Salem Menthol in it. Been using it that way since I first got it.
Sometimes I lay one elevated like you do. I even lay them flat without anything to seal the cup, and the mouthpiece keeps it from leaking out. Gotta be careful with those. If I forget while using it, it will spill out if tilted too far past horizontal.
I've seen the marks on the original filler rings, but it's only on the new ones that have that inner lip that sits inside the cup. I think that inner lip is also part of the wicking issue. For some reason my juices tasted weak when I used the white mouthpiece, otherwise it seemed to do a fantastic job.
I really like the 6ml bottle mod. I've fluffed my wick which helps a bit, cut the wick channels on the bottom plug a bit which helped a little as well, but the 6ml bottle is like a steam train.
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