eGo/510 info

[~Daryl~]

Hi All,

History: I started out with a eGo-T 650mAh batt, a Smok RBC atty and 12mg juice. I soon decided that setup was not going to satisfy me. I went back to Tcigs. Then, a vape store advertised they were going out of biz and I dropped in. I purchased about $150 worth of gear in the long run. First, I purchased a Kanger Mini Protank 3 to go with my eGo-T batt. Then I purchased a regular Protank 3 and a Vision Spinner II batt. The dual coil heads that were provided with the tanks didn't last long before I got the burnt taste. I went back and was introduced to the new OCC enclosed wick heads. I loved them and bought all they had. In all, the heads, 4 mini protanks, 2 reg protanks, 3 eGo-T batts, 2 Vision Spinners, a bunch of tobacco and menthol juice... etc

I have a lot of questions pending, but I'll ask my main two.

(A) I ran across a seller selling 1.2ohm, 1.5ohm and 1.8ohm dual coil heads for the Kangers. I have since purchased an eGo-C Twist 900mAh battery that I'm sure I could use with any of these heads. (the Vision Spinners are really bigger than I'd like and one of them is already not holding charge, not impressed).
My main go-to is the small eGo-T and mini protank for ease of carrying. The eGo-T batts read around 3.6 to 3.7 volts (set voltage). Would the 1.5ohm and 1.8ohm coils work with the smaller eGo-T batts? (I'm thinking 1.5ohm would be fine, but 1.8ohm would be pushing it. I'm currently using 1.2ohm)

(B) I purchased a Smok Osub 40W kit off of thebay. I soon found out that lung hits are not for me. Sooo, I attached one of the regular protanks to it and it works ok, but every time it sits for a while, I have to select "is new coil" - "Y" "N" when I hit the fire lever again. (don't know what's up with that). Maybe the darn thing just knows somehow that a "Smok" tank is not attached. Maybe it has to have a "Clapton" coil? Anybody have a suggestion on a MTL tank that WILL work correctly with the Smok 40W batt? Maybe a Smok brand? (510 thread)

 

[Foggy Road]

I had/still have an old 650mah eGo T Upgrade (VV) battery. Worked great probably still would. I was once warned by one if our resident battery gurus that the 1.5 I was using was too low for the battery. Pushing the amp limit. I definitely would not be using that 1.2! The 1.8 would be perfect for your eGo T.

 

[djsvapour]

(B) I purchased a Smok Osub 40W kit off of thebay. I soon found out that lung hits are not for me. Sooo, I attached one of the regular protanks to it and it works ok, but every time it sits for a while, I have to select "is new coil" - "Y" "N" when I hit the fire lever again. (don't know what's up with that). Maybe the darn thing just knows somehow that a "Smok" tank is not attached. Maybe it has to have a "Clapton" coil? Anybody have a suggestion on a MTL tank that WILL work correctly with the Smok 40W batt? Maybe a Smok brand? (510 thread)

The Smok Osub is just a mod. It asks you about the coil because it is capable of temperature control which reads/locks the resistance. That's normal. Some auto do it, some not.
You certainly do not need a Smok tank or a Clapton coil. Almost any tank made by any make should work on it, since it can work with 0.1ohm to 3.0ohm coils (in standard variable watt) mode which covers just about everything.

Personally, I would get a Nautilus 2 tank and give it a try.

In my collection, I would use the following tanks and expect no trouble.
Joyetech Cubis (only with the 0.6ohm)
Eleaf GS range - any of them, but not the temp control coil.
Original Nautilus (mini probably)

etc. etc.

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

Welcome to ECF!

(A) Yes, those coils will work but the vapor will be less satisfying the higher resistance you use. Those are tiny heads compared to some of the factory coils in use today, and a 3.7v device will struggle to drive anything above 1.5 Ohm's. Work? Yes. Work well? Mehh...

(B) Smok tank not needed. Pretty much any 510 threaded tank will work. Sounds like you'll do best in wattage/power mode. Smok mods aren't the best at temperature control anyway.

 

[BrotherBob]

Anybody have a suggestion on a MTL tank that WILL work correctly with the Smok 40W batt? Maybe a Smok brand? (510 thread)

Welcome and glad you joined.
Might like to read:
Vape Gear – What’s Right For You?
Tanks-I would check out:
The Tron-S, with the CLR coils,the EHpro Kayfun Lite V2, Kayfun V5, and the Kanger Subtank Mini with the RBA/purch option.
40 watts will power most MTL tanks at non subohm coil usage.

 

[~Daryl~]

Foggy Road, I've been using the 1.2ohm coils for probably 5 months now and have never experienced anything like a warm batt on the eGo-T's. Albeit, maybe I just can't feel it thru the case. (Read "C" below). I'd hate to have one of the things go off like a rocket (as I've read it described)... in my face! (Maybe I can find a 90 degree angle drip tip LOL). The eGo-T's do have protection circuitry in them. I accidentally touched + to - when measuring the voltage on one of them and the power button immediately started flashing like it was going into short circuit protection mode. That's a good thing, but I know anything electronic can fail. I also know that overdrain (I'll call it) on a batt is a different thing. After I receive my eGo Twist VV, I'll probably switch over entirely to them. Depends on how I like the size.

djsvapour, Thanks for the suggestions. I will investigate them. Are any of the tanks you mentioned top filling and completely sealed at the bottom?

Coastal Cowboy, (A) Thanks, Since I already have quite a few of the 650mAh eGo's (bought some for a friend), I think I'll buy a lot of the 1.5ohm coils. They would also be good if I switch to the VV batts as I mentioned above. (I bought a regular Protank 3 for my friend too. For her Aspire K2 batt).

(B) Yes, I was instructed by one vape store to use the "Watt" setting on the Smok Osub, not the "Temp".
_________________________

I'm a penny pincher. I already purchased a lot of 50 of the newer, genuine, Kanger updated OCC 4 hole dual coil 1.2ohm heads for 92 cents each. Got to use them on something! I actually like the older 2 oblong hole heads better. That's what I'm getting ready to purchase (Albeit, clones @ $1.12 each). [Z]

(C) I read on one forum that a particular member had measured the resistance on these Kanger coils (assuming genuine). No matter what resistance they were supposedly stated to be, they all measured about 2.2ohms. Sure enough, I read the resistance on both the 1.2ohm 2 hole heads I have, and on the 1.2ohm 4 hole heads I have. The ones I tested all read around 2.2ohms (digital multimeter set on 200ohms). Any thoughts on this?
My thinking is the the differently marked ohm rating on the +ohm heads was/is just a marketing ploy by Kangertech. The actual 2.2ohm resistance of the heads assure(d) they are safe(r) to use on set voltage eGo type batts of low wattage/voltage. (I don't have any heads other than the 1.2ohm to check the resistance. [Z] Once I receive the 1.5ohm heads, I'll test and report here).
This makes me wonder how I'm getting a decent cloud with a 2.2ohm reading dual coil on 3.6V ?? 2.2ohm would mean each coil would be at 4.4ohm, correct (parallel coils)?

(D) The charger I purchased from the store going out of business only reads an output voltage of 4.2V. It is designed for charging an eGo type connection batt only. How can this charge a VV batt with a setting of 4.8V correctly? Is this maybe why the Vision Spinner quit holding a charge? (I just charged the Vision Spinner II batt, then set it on 4.8V, read it and it reads 4.8V, even though the charger says 4.2V) ?? (I'll add that I only ever used the Spinner on the 3.3V or 3.8V settings). I remember I had it set on 3.8V when I went back to the closing vape store complaining of a burnt taste with the original Kanger "exposed wick" dual coils. The vape store girl clicked it back to the 3.3v setting, assumably because the coils were "supposed" to be 1.2ohm.

(E) I misplaced some of the eGo-T 650mAh batts. If they have discharged to lower than 2V when I locate them, will they now be toast?

Thanks Again Guyz and... Sorry To Write A Book!

 

[~Daryl~]

Well, I tried to edit the above post and keep getting an error.
Scratch all the info on measuring the resistance of the Kanger coils above (Section C). I was using a cheapo digital ohmmeter. After doing some other electrical testing I noticed something wasn't right with that meter. I located my trusty Fluke meter and the 1.2ohm coils read 1.2ohm.
Could I get a moderator to edit the above post? Like completely delete the (C) section and rename the (D) section to (C)? Then, rename the (E) section to (D)?

Then, delete this post also! lol