On the second question:
3.7V is what nearly all unregulated batteries will output (on average). Unregulated power starts off the charger around 4.1-4.2V, levels off near 3.7V for the majority of runtime, then slips slowly down until depleted, 3.2V-ish.
The original eGo ran a regulated 3.3V to mimic the power/response of the 510 'stick' batteries prevalent at the time.
On the first:
I too had this *exact* same question as I was searching out spare batteries for the better half. Here are all of the differences I have found in the Joyetech-branded batteries:
1. the original "ego"
- 3.3V regulated (to match the voltage of the early 510 stick batts)
- white light
- did NOT have 5-click protection
2. the ego-T
- 3.3V regulated
- white light
- 5-click on/off
3. the ego-C *exactly the same as the ego-T other than battery charge indication*
- 3.3V regulated
- 100-50% charge: white light, 50-10% light-blue light, less than 10% charge: blue light
- 5-click on/off
4. the ego-T2 Upgrade
- 3.3V regulated and 4.2-3.2V unregulated modes
- white light = 3.3V regulated
- orange = unregulated
- 5-click on/off
5. the ego-C2 Upgrade
- 3.3V regulated and 4.2-3.2V unregulated modes
- blue light = 3.3V regulated
- orange light = unregulated
- 5-click on/off
- ego-C charge indicator will work but ONLY in 3.3V regulated mode, disabled when running unregulated (orange light)
The twists are in a category all their own, running regulated mode all the time, but you can vary the voltage, with 5-click on/off. The charge indicator should mimic the regular ego-C. The ego-C Twist batts are advertised having better short circuit protection. I am unsure if this extends to the C/T Upgrade batteries or not.
All of my batteries were purchased either as part of carto kits, or standalone.
The descriptions of what you ATTACH to your ego-whatever batteries is a whole different level of complication (and the battery specs are bad enuf).
Only used 510 attys, cartomizers and clearos. Never seen or touched a type-A, type-B atomizer, or an ego-T cone atomizer much less the ego-C multi-piece setup.
This becomes especially important when shopping for spare/replacement batteries. Several vendors have ego-T2 Upgrade and ego-C2 Upgrade batteries for sale side by side, for several dollars difference in price. For me it came down to whether the charge indicator was worth an extra $3-4 on top of the ego-T2 battery at $13.
All of these battery variations are available in the popular sizes: 650, 900, and 1000mAh. More capacity=longer barrel, nothing else is changed.
Apologies if this bumped a too-old thread.
I'm bumping this too-old thread again to say THANK YOU. I started with an eGo-c upgrade only a few weeks back and I've been thoroughly confused while looking for a spare. The break down in this post clears up everything for me. It should be stickied somewhere.
I started with CE4s and had no idea til now Joyetech had "systems". I thought it was just a battery that you slapped any variety of cartomizer, tank, or clearomizer on. The battery itself is labelled -c or -t after all. I think this is the cause for misunderstanding in the first few posts here.
Thanks to everyone involved for explaining both sides. The rabbit hole just got that much clearer.
