Ego Twist broken button help.

[HPloco]

A sticky would be nice. If you ever lose the button, like I did, this is the only place I found with a HARD button replacement. It's not identical, but it works just as good. Here are side by side of an unmodified twist vs the twist after I replaced the button.

 

[Koman]

A sticky would be nice. If you ever lose the button, like I did, this is the only place I found with a HARD button replacement. It's not identical, but it works just as good. Here are side by side of an unmodified twist vs the twist after I replaced the button.

View attachment 176742 View attachment 176743

Looking nice!

 

[Kemosabe]

I have had a button press in and not come back. It has been dunked in salt water and also thrashed around on a lanyard during yard work, so I wasn't surprised. I pulled it apart and realigned the button and card and it works like new. Now That surprised me!

BTW, if you have an old Star Dust laying around, they make a great "handle" to connect to a Twist or eGo when you want to pull them apart. Just remember to go slow and gentle so you don't pull the wires apart. Gently rock it up and down and side to side until it starts to move apart and then it takes very little pressure.

I'm surprised and delighted at the use and abuse the Twist is able to take, especially for the price!

YES!! this just worked to help me fix my 1300mah spinner!! thank you!!
the button was depressed and jammed, just like the first photo in this thread. i didnt have a stardust laying around but i did have a large ego cone, which worked beautifully. i gently rocked the head out of the tube, exposing the circuit board and wires. i realigned the button, adjusted the circuit board and VIOLA. im pretty sure itll work just fine once i charge it up. the button is back to being clicky. im so happy!

 

[Tank V2]

Is the battery still can fire? My Ego suddenly stopped working ( It doesn't fire ) and opened it up. Nothing much I can do about it. Just maybe for spare parts.

 

[SimboSlice]

Vision eGo Brand is notorious for this problem; it looks like a solid build from the outside but the inside circuitry is held in place by cheap glue gun gunk that comes apart from even a small drop on to a carpet

 

[ShogaNinja]

The button getting stuck after a drop is because the shape of the button is like a "D". It's round with a flattened end. The flat part of the D goes against the top of the ridge on the inside, while the round part goes down. If this gets flipped around from a drop in any way other than this orientation you will encounter a button stuck at an angle. There is really only one way to fix it. Take a old atomizer that uses the 510 part of the eGo connection (not the cone threads) (like a Stardust works really well - or maybe a cartomizer) and pry the battery top off CAREFULLY (caring for the wires inside is kind of like caring for a baby bird). There is a 90% chance you are going to go all Hulk on it and snap a wire inside so you will most likely need a soldering iron and solder should that happen. Now all you need to do is put the button in like I said earlier with the flat part oriented at the top (not as easy as it sounds) and you're all done. Just mash it all back together. I like to take a magazine and push down on the battery into the magazine so I don't mess up my table or whatever.

NOW if you should break a wire loose you're going to have to know what wire is what and where it goes. For that I can recommend the SteelJan video (which doesn't really show you very well), OR my blog - (Do a forum search on my website for KGO repair and it'll come up) which shows you the insides of a KGO (which is close enough). The only difference is the KGO has a ground and the eGo C Twist does not. No big. You can do it.

 

[adventuredog]

Thompson and The rest of you, thanks to you guys, I was able to repair one of the two high capacity batteries that I broke this week. I dropped my Ego Twist about a week ago and broke the head off of it... While I was trying to put the button back in, I broke the wire going from the circuit board to the ego connector. Thanks to your pictures (and 3 pairs of reading glasses perched contemptuously on the bridge of my nose,) I was able to resolder the lead and stuff it all back in the tube. Of course by this time, I had forever misplaced the button and had to "monkey rigg" a substitute. I used a round plastic rivet that I broke two sides off of, then I slowly rotated the "head" side of the rivet, into the hole for the button and covered the stem of the rivet with Suguru putty. (To keep liquid out of the button hole.) I've used the "rivet" button method with old 510 batteries in the past and it works even if it isn't pretty and tends to snag on things. I am also hoping that a thin band of Suguru around the control head, will be enough to keep it from popping apart again should I accidentally sit on it or drop it again.

The 2nd battery, a Totally Wicked Ego Knockoff that I've had less than a week broke in half when I sat on it this afternoon. These things are total crap IMHO I bought two of them about a week ago and one is completely fried and the other one already has an obvious tilt to the control head. I won't buy those again. I've got old Riva's that have been charged 450 times and dropped nearly as often that still work great, so the quality just doesn't seem to be there. I was going to attempt to reolder the broken leads on that one too, until I looked at the cell itself and saw staining on the paper... Looks like it's been leaking and so the cell is now in the "Battery Recycle Box" and the head is in my desk for spare parts when the next one goes TU.

Thanks again for the detailed photo, it helped me immensely! You ROCK!

The button getting stuck after a drop is because the shape of the button is like a "D". It's round with a flattened end. The flat part of the D goes against the top of the ridge on the inside, while the round part goes down. If this gets flipped around from a drop in any way other than this orientation you will encounter a button stuck at an angle. There is really only one way to fix it. Take a old atomizer that uses the 510 part of the eGo connection (not the cone threads) (like a Stardust works really well - or maybe a cartomizer) and pry the battery top off CAREFULLY (caring for the wires inside is kind of like caring for a baby bird). There is a 90% chance you are going to go all Hulk on it and snap a wire inside so you will most likely need a soldering iron and solder should that happen. Now all you need to do is put the button in like I said earlier with the flat part oriented at the top (not as easy as it sounds) and you're all done. Just mash it all back together. I like to take a magazine and push down on the battery into the magazine so I don't mess up my table or whatever.

NOW if you should break a wire loose you're going to have to know what wire is what and where it goes. For that I can recommend the SteelJan video (which doesn't really show you very well), OR my blog - (Do a forum search on my website for KGO repair and it'll come up) which shows you the insides of a KGO (which is close enough). The only difference is the KGO has a ground and the eGo C Twist does not. No big. You can do it.

 

[Centurion]

These eGo twists are cheaply made. I've never dropped mine at all and the button routinely gets stuck in the On position. I knew what I was getting when I bought it I just expected its basic functions to work reliably.

 

[Bookworm]

These eGo twists are cheaply made. I've never dropped mine at all and the button routinely gets stuck in the On position. I knew what I was getting when I bought it I just expected its basic functions to work reliably.

I was sent an ego twist that did the same thing. The vendor sent a replacement that never had an issue. Bad quality control I guess.

I have broken an ego twist and a vision spinner by dropping them and having the buttons stick. When I tried to fix the twist, I snapped a wire. I'll try with the spinner after reading this thread. Fingers crossed.

 

[Neo]

The switch mechanism has just slipped out of alignment and the button is getting stuck in the opening
if you tap it against a table either up, down or to the side (depending on which way it has moved) you can get it to line up again and work

Genius. It actually worked!

 

[Merlin21]

So I tried this fix, of realigning the button and it worked! However, I must of messed something up because the light blinks 3 times when I press the button. Does the 3 blink mean a short? If so has anyone come across this and fix it?

Thanks for your help in the matter ladies and gents.

 

[Barto]

Is the battery still can fire? My Ego suddenly stopped working ( It doesn't fire ) and opened it up. Nothing much I can do about it. Just maybe for spare parts.

I think it can still work.

 

[br5495]

This is a problem that can occur with any eGo type battery, be it a Twist, Spinner, genuine JoyTech product, or whatever. It happens most often when the PV has been dropped or sat on. The larger, longer, or heavier the battery, the most likely it will happen. The damage done can vary, but there may be an easy fix for the most common type of damage.

All of these batteries are basically the same. The threaded fitting is pressed into a very thin wall tube, which works well for normal use. This may be considered a weakness by some people, but anything stouter would be a larger and heavier battery. This is a compromise that I am more than willing to accept.

So it's rather easy for the tube to pushed, banged, whacked or whatever to one side and knock it out of alignment with the threaded fitting. Depending on the direction of misalignment, this mishap can often move the micro switch out from under the eGo button far enough for it to become stuck when pressed.

It's easy to find out if this is the case. Just lay the battery down with the cartomizer or atomizer installed and roll it across a tabletop. If the tube is out of alignment, there will be a very noticeable wobble between the two devices.

But don't try to fix it yet. First of all, the button must be worked back to its original position. Completely. Anything less may make matters worse.

After the button is in place, screw your device firmly on to the battery. The longer the device, the better. Then determine the direction that the tube needs to be moved to realign it. Now grasp the two parts and shove them tightly towards each other while at the same time applying pressure in the direction of alignment. This action will be sort of like trying to break a pencil in two. But don't get too rough or quick with it. Try to feel what is happening. If done correctly, you will feel it sort of slip or maybe snap in place. Anything more will be too much.

Afterwards, closely inspect the joint between the tube and threaded fitting. They should be jammed tightly together with no space showing.

There are too many variables for this fix to apply to everyone, but hopefully it can help someone. I know it worked for me.

 

[S1LV3R]

Man i wish i would have found this thread months ago!! After putting mine in the bottom pocket of my cargo shorts and working in the garden, it ended up pulling the head off and snapping the wire. Not being one to give up so easily (translation= im a cheapskate) i brought it to work, pulled out the guts, saw what made it tick and soldered it back together.

After having to do that a few times i found this will be a great tip for those doing DIY fixes and re-assembling. Put the button in the head, and angle the button circuit board into it, lining up the board edges with the 2 cutouts of the head edge. See Thompson's pics on page 2 for reference. Then straighten it and press together. Whalla, perfect button alignment!!

Hope this helps some.

Silver

 

[smacuser]

I resigned myself to just hitting the bottom of the button with my thumbnail until it's done.

I keep my nail a little longer.

As for the one I ripped apart, I have it stored until one of my others die, then plan to solder the top of a dead one to the the top of that and hope it works.

 

[smacuser]

As for the one I ripped apart, I have it stored until one of my others die, then plan to solder the top of a dead one to the the top of that and hope it works.

Anyone ever try this?

 

[S1LV3R]

yes ive frankensteined(soldered) the head of one on to the circuit board/battery of another and it worked perfectly!! Till i broke that one (like 5 egos later) and finally gave up on egos and switched to the Vamo

 

[smacuser]

...frankensteined...

Took the word right out of my mouth

 

[Koman]

Great new word to add to vocabulary!

 

[edyle]

This happened to me today, and I found another method of truly fixing the device

With an old clearomizer (I had a Vision on there) you gently rock it back and forth, you'll notice the eGo 510 head will start to come out of the body. Just slowly work it until its all the way out. The pictures I took a moment ago will show better than I can describe. I thought they'd be glued or something, but its just a friction deal holding it all in there.

Mine happened to have the wire break because of a separate incident. Originally I dropped it, the button lodged in sideways w/o the light on. Figured it was either 'junk it' or try and fix it.

That top picture shows the newly soldered connection (as best I could do at 3am) and the bottom shows the wire broken off.

Don't tug on anything too much, as it all seems very very gentle. Getting the button back into place is pretty simple. Put the button into the slot, align the button on the board to outside button and gently push back together.

I also just thought seeing some of the internal components interesting

Yeah; I shoulda paid more attention to gently there.
To my surprise the whole thing popped out and with the tension in my hands the wires burst
plus some tiny piece fell to the floor hopelessly lost.