Eleaf GS Air Fan
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My new GS tanks are in San Fran...yea! Maybe I will have my package by the end of the week? I've lost two of the GS Airs to stripped connectors; one M and a MS. I figure I will keep the glass tank part for spares, eventually I'm going to break one. 
Thank goodness for this thread because this little inexpensive tank is perfect for me. I was looking to replace my protank minis and was leaning towards the aspire nautilus when I stumbled on the info on the GS Air. I wanted to stay with one brand so I didn't have to purchase multiple coils. Luckily the M and MS came out about that time and I have stocked up! Right now I only use two types of tanks, the GS Airs and the iSub.
As for the 1.2 coil, I dropped a bit of juice directly on the coil to saturate the cotton. I let it sit for about 10 minutes, dropped a bit more juice on the coil and fired it up. I didn't have any dry hits and I was afraid to burn the cotton. I'd heard once you burn, its done. I normally was vaping at around 11w but with the cotton I find setting the wattage around 13 and it works just fine!
Thank goodness for this thread because this little inexpensive tank is perfect for me. I was looking to replace my protank minis and was leaning towards the aspire nautilus when I stumbled on the info on the GS Air. I wanted to stay with one brand so I didn't have to purchase multiple coils. Luckily the M and MS came out about that time and I have stocked up! Right now I only use two types of tanks, the GS Airs and the iSub.
As for the 1.2 coil, I dropped a bit of juice directly on the coil to saturate the cotton. I let it sit for about 10 minutes, dropped a bit more juice on the coil and fired it up. I didn't have any dry hits and I was afraid to burn the cotton. I'd heard once you burn, its done. I normally was vaping at around 11w but with the cotton I find setting the wattage around 13 and it works just fine!
Generally, I do the same as you, but those new Air coils are stubborn buggers... really tightly packed. I put in the 4 drops to save me about 10-15 minutes' wait time. Just dry pull priming, the coil took about 15-20 minutes to saturate thoroughly.I read a lot of posts about priming stock pre-made coils. Here's my method:
I don't.
When I first started vaping, I read a lot to make sure I did the right things, a lot of sites, and people, said prime the coil by putting juice in the wick holes. I did this at first, but one day the engineer in me realized that doing that is no better, in fact if you use only a few drops in each hole not even as good, as just putting the coil in the filled tank, taking a few hits with power off, shaking it around a bit to get the air out, and letting it sit 5 or 1o minutes and then drawing a couple times unpowered and then start at low power, around 8 Watts, and take gentle short puffs the first few hits, then I''m good to go at whatever power I want.
Think about it. If you are putting drops in the coil head, a few drops on one side slot or hole, a few on the other, I guess if you are patient enough, you will saturate the wick in maybe 5 or 10 minutes or so, lol. instead I get a lot more juice up in the wick taking a draws unpowered with ALL the wick holes sucking in juice due to the vacuum being pulled when I draw. A lot faster and more efficient than letting only the wicking action of the cotton against ambient air pressure slowly saturate the coil as you try to pry drops into those little holes.
If I were going to going to prime a coil, I would use Cheechako's method, that way at least you get the inside of the wick around the coil saturated first, and i would probably put 5 or 6 drops or so. But i don't prime because I don't have to and you can't make me.
Well actually I do prime, but i do it by taking draws with the coil in the tank. A superior method. *Ducks* lol
When I got mine, it looked like the inside of the base might be SS, its rather hefty, but quite sure that part isn't a "copper alloy." but the air flow control ring is just chrome plated metal of some sort, the same as the GS-MS and GS Air, that might be the copper alloy. It will be interesting to hear what you find out!
I have both kinds of new coils, cotton 1.2s, 1.5 duals, 10 minutes seems to do it for me if I take dry pulls and then wait the 10 minutes, dry pull again, fire it on low. Your method makes sense, I am sure it save wait time if you put the drops right on the coil.
I never felt the need to prime before either, but with the GS Air coil being enveloped in liner, I started.I read a lot of posts about priming stock pre-made coils. Here's my method:
I don't.
When I first started vaping, I read a lot to make sure I did the right things, a lot of sites, and people, said prime the coil by putting juice in the wick holes. I did this at first, but one day the engineer in me realized that doing that is no better, in fact if you use only a few drops in each hole not even as good, as just putting the coil in the filled tank, taking a few hits with power off, shaking it around a bit to get the air out, and letting it sit 5 or 1o minutes and then drawing a couple times unpowered and then start at low power, around 8 Watts, and take gentle short puffs the first few hits, then I''m good to go at whatever power I want.
Think about it. If you are putting drops in the coil head, a few drops on one side slot or hole, a few on the other, I guess if you are patient enough, you will saturate the wick in maybe 5 or 10 minutes or so, lol. instead I get a lot more juice up in the wick taking a draws unpowered with ALL the wick holes sucking in juice due to the vacuum being pulled when I draw. A lot faster and more efficient than letting only the wicking action of the cotton against ambient air pressure slowly saturate the coil as you try to pry drops into those little holes.
If I were going to going to prime a coil, I would use Cheechako's method, that way at least you get the inside of the wick around the coil saturated first, and i would probably put 5 or 6 drops or so. But i don't prime because I don't have to and you can't make me.
Well actually I do prime, but i do it by taking unpowered draws with the coil in the tank. A superior method. *Ducks* lol
I agree on that somewhat. I put juice in the air hole too. If you fill a tank, a vacuum is created when you assemble it and turn it up and the juice flow doesn't just immediately run in through the juice holes. The juice has to displace the air in the wick and it does it easier outside the tank when it is new. Sometimes I don't prime them at all, but I always prime my RTAs.I read a lot of posts about priming stock pre-made coils. Here's my method:
I don't.
When I first started vaping, I read a lot to make sure I did the right things, a lot of sites, and people, said prime the coil by putting juice in the wick holes. I did this at first, but one day the engineer in me realized that doing that is no better, in fact if you use only a few drops in each hole not even as good, as just putting the coil in the filled tank, taking a few hits with power off, shaking it around a bit to get the air out, and letting it sit 5 or 1o minutes and then drawing a couple times unpowered and then start at low power, around 8 Watts, and take gentle short puffs the first few hits, then I''m good to go at whatever power I want.
Think about it. If you are putting drops in the coil head, a few drops on one side slot or hole, a few on the other, I guess if you are patient enough, you will saturate the wick in maybe 5 or 10 minutes or so, lol. instead I get a lot more juice up in the wick taking a draws unpowered with ALL the wick holes sucking in juice due to the vacuum being pulled when I draw. A lot faster and more efficient than letting only the wicking action of the cotton against ambient air pressure slowly saturate the coil as you try to pry drops into those little holes.
If I were going to going to prime a coil, I would use Cheechako's method, that way at least you get the inside of the wick around the coil saturated first, and i would probably put 5 or 6 drops or so. But i don't prime because I don't have to and you can't make me.
Well actually I do prime, but i do it by taking draws with the coil in the tank. A superior method. *Ducks* lol
Where is the info on the acquisition? As far as speculation goes, I believe iSmoka was originally a division of Joyetech.
Yes, that's why I do unpowered draws, to pull a vacuum, that will equalize the pressure and start pulling a vacuum on the coil side, sucking in juice. I would prime my RTA's too hahaI agree on that somewhat. I put juice in the air hole too. If you fill a tank, a vacuum is created when you assemble it and turn it up and the juice flow doesn't just immediately run in through the juice holes. The juice has to displace the air in the wick and it does it easier outside the tank when it is new. Sometimes I don't prime them at all, but I always prime my RTAs.
for this coil your normal voltage might not be the best choice
Regarding life of the coil or just overall performance?
It seems to be vaping really well. I have backed down the voltage a bit but I'm at 14.5w on 1.3ohm. Some where in the 4.3v area
I've taken apart a GS Air cotton coil, as I know you have, but it was a first for me, very thick cotton wrap like a cartridge poly wrap in a cartomizer! I am going to take apart a nautilus mini coil soon, I am eager to see what that is like cotton wise, I've heard other say that two of the four holes are blocked to make it wick around, I want to seeeee lol.I never felt the need to prime before either, but with the GS Air coil being enveloped in liner, I started.
I do dead draws to prime too, but if you pre moisten the coils, you will suck a lot less..Yes, that's why I do unpowered draws, to pull a vacuum, that will equalize the pressure and start pulling a vacuum on the coil side, sucking in juice. I would prime my RTA's too haha
Here's the trademark data for "Eleaf." It shows as a registered trademark of Joyetech. The last modification showing on the trademark was as of 11/2013, so I imagine the proceedings for the aquisition of iSmoka started then and finished up in mid 2014 (so far as I can remember). Eleaf/iSmoka are now wholly owned subsidiaries of Joyetech.
ELEAF Trademark of Joyetech (Changzhou) Electronics Co., Ltd. - Registration Number 4429683 - Serial Number 85677872 :: Justia Trademarks
They're similar material to the cotton in the Air heads, but more in a packed "pad" for lack of a better word.
I'm aware of that trademark as I posted that a few posts back. That doesn't show me that the 2 Shenzhen companies merged or iSmoka was bought by Eleaf. All it shows is they trademarked the name in the U.S.. I would really like to see the info that shows iSmoka as being owned by Joyetech. On there China sites they are represented as 2 different companies manufacturing different products at 2 different locations. Until I see something else, I will still assume iSmoka was always owned by Joyetech.
I read a lot of posts about priming stock pre-made coils. Here's my method:
I don't.
When I first started vaping, I read a lot to make sure I did the right things, a lot of sites, and people, said prime the coil by putting juice in the wick holes. I did this at first, but one day the engineer in me realized that doing that is no better, in fact if you use only a few drops in each hole not even as good, as just putting the coil in the filled tank, taking a few hits with power off, shaking it around a bit to get the air out, and letting it sit 5 or 1o minutes and then drawing a couple times unpowered and then start at low power, around 8 Watts, and take gentle short puffs the first few hits, then I''m good to go at whatever power I want.
Think about it. If you are putting drops in the coil head, a few drops on one side slot or hole, a few on the other, I guess if you are patient enough, you will saturate the wick in maybe 5 or 10 minutes or so, lol. instead I get a lot more juice up in the wick taking a draws unpowered with ALL the wick holes sucking in juice due to the vacuum being pulled when I draw. A lot faster and more efficient than letting only the wicking action of the cotton against ambient air pressure slowly saturate the coil as you try to pry drops into those little holes.
If I were going to going to prime a coil, I would use Cheechako's method, that way at least you get the inside of the wick around the coil saturated first, and i would probably put 5 or 6 drops or so. But i don't prime because I don't have to and you can't make me.
Well actually I do prime, but i do it by taking unpowered draws with the coil in the tank. A superior method. *Ducks* lol
I'm going to have to read all the different methods of priming and incorporate them all. I like this coil now that it's saturated and vaping good. I've never had an organic cotton coil and it seems it needs a bit more care to prime, or it's just this specific coil.
All I've ever done up until today was put the coil in a filled tank and take a bunch of dry unpowered hits for about 5 minutes until i didn't see any air bubbles float up. I never gave much thought to priming coils other than that.
That didn't work too well for this coil. It didn't work at all.
On the second coil I put about 8-10 drops in the holes in the coil until it wouldn't absorb anymore and put it in a filled tank and did the dry hits and started off low watts. I still got a bit of an odd flavor at first but not burnt taste.
It took a few hits to get it to vape well.
That's similar to what I go through with a new coil in any tank I have. The higher the VG the longer it takes to prime. Sometimes it takes 15 minutes or more for a coil to really start performing right.
According to the site Cloudman posted ismoka is/was owned by Joyetech:
ISMOKA Trademark - Serial Number 85863070 :: Justia Trademarks
ISMOKA - Reviews & Brand Information - Joyetech (Changzhou) Electronics Co., Ltd. Changzhou, Jiangsu, - Serial Number: 85863070
iSmoke is also abandoned according to those sites... you can apply for it for only $159.00... lol...
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