Eleaf istick 50w Owners Group

[JeremyR]

eleaf says 5 hours at one amp..

Whatever stuff I have it seems to charge faster than 5 hours to me.. I'm usually shocked how fast it charges in a short time.

I would have to time it, if I can ever pit it down that long when I'm awake.

 

[alexmot]

First, thanks for this thread. It was a wealth of information for me before I purchased my iStick50 about a month ago.

I've experienced just about every non "send it back to the retailer" issue that's in this thread, and most of them I can write off as human error / oddities / learn to press the fire button.

Yesterday, I learned a new trick while screwing around with atomizer coils. Reproduction steps are below:

1. Set iStick to some reasonable wattage (I like mine in the 5.5-6.0W range).
2. Confirm that the settings are locked via pressing the up/down button and seeing "Locked" on the screen.
3. Confirm that the unit is in variable wattage mode (big number on screen ends in "W" -- in my case, it reads 5.5W)
4. Remove any atomizer / tank from the unit (as if you are switching tanks).
5. If you don't have an eGo adapter, screw one in (I've only tested this with mine in)
6. Click the fire button once quickly to power the screen. Mine says 5.5W on the screen.
7. Take a metallic object and gently swoosh it around inside the eGO connector. I've used car keys and a loose atomizer with very good results.
8. Confirm that wattage has changed significantly. Mine maxes out at 20.0W if I swoosh around a bit.
9. Re-install tank.
10. Confirm that unit is now locked in at 20W.

Based on the above, I would imagine that folks set to VW run a slight risk of modifying their locked-in settings when swapping tanks.

Unless nobody else can reproduce this. Then I'm going to jump on the piss and moan bandwagon.

 

[DanJiblets]

I use a 2 amp charger and did notice the eleaf and charger were quite warm last night when I charged it. Maybe I'll go back to my old 1 amp charger. It's just convenient using the same charger I already have plugged in for my phone.

 

[DanJiblets]

Does anyone here use a 30w istick? I'm going to be getting another to go with my 50w, I'm debating between a 30w, or another 50w. I want the 30 for the more compact size for work mainly. I don't go above 16 watts on my subtanks, so no issue there. My main concern is going to half of the battery life. Not sure if I'll make it a day with the 30w or not. I'd imagine I'd get a day out of it though. Hmm decisions.

 

[Bikenstein]

I like the 30w too. Sometimes more than the 50. The 30 should get you through at least 8 hrs. of chain vaping. Mine will last me about 11 hrs and I vape pretty much 4 or 5 mils/day

 

[MoralFibre]

Yer bog standard (smart) phone charger is usually 1-2.5 amps - my Nokia charger is 1.5.
These things are great at charging the Eleaf. Beats half an amp off my USB2 'puter port (if you guys have USB3, you should be getting .9 amps).
Other USB plug-in chargers can go up to 5, even 6, amps.

 

[MoralFibre]

I should add....these Eleaf things really suck eh! - I mean... great vaping, awesome power and lasts for days.

But where's the bottle opener! ?#@$%??
And where's the 4000 lumen torch recessed into the silver lined USB port?!!@$%?

Sucks eh!

 

[Bikenstein]

Maybe you'd like one of these $49.17 Digital Vapor 1600mAh Rechargeable E-Cigarette Battery - w/ LED fashlight + MP3 + FM radio + microSDHC / US plug at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[MoralFibre]

Not bad for a single cell device (If only it were 4400 )
I'll wait for the Eleaf update
Very cool though. Bookmarked!

 

[Dioxyde]

Wall adapters could make a difference. Im not 100% sure how istick acts but I assume similar to other USB charge devices. In that if you plug into a computer USB it will only draw .5 amps so it doesn't damage the PC. 2 of the pins in the USB detect if it PC or not. And the istick may restrict to .5 amps regardless of the power rating if it detects on these pins. So it would possibly take 10 hours to charge.

I know for sure nearly all car chargers are this way too. In that they restrict to .5.. Some of the more expensive ones aren't.

Not sure if this is the case. But just in case..

I did not know that about the istick, you might be on to something there. The 1 amp adapter I used has a built in led intended to change green when whatever it's plugged into is done charging, it seems plausible that the extra circuitry may have the istick thinking it's plugged into a computer, thereby reducing the charge to a measly 500 mah.

 

[Syfi]

Here's my trip through iStick land. Started with 2 Istick 20s that the wifey still uses daily for her work kit. Both are still running strong and are charged daily. I was maxing out my Sigelei Mini on my setup and thought 'what the heck', I'll get the iStick 50w, since the 20w have worked so well. I get one of the pre-release from VapeNW and have been nothing but pleased so far with the design and performance. Up until a few days ago.

First sign was the battery just shutting down. Press fire button and nothing...blank screen...no 5-click restart. USB to reset/restart and things were fine for a short while afterward. Also started noticing the smaller display numbers had part of the number cut off, or not displaying, particularly the 4 and 7.


Last night I was vaping along on my Lemo2 (0.6 ohm oem coil, 70/30 Vg/Pg). Always had her locked @ 0.6ohm, 4.2v, 30.0w. All of a sudden I got a Pyroclastic blast from the tank. I look at the display and it's showing 5.8 v & 1.2 ohm. I'm always in wattage mode but adjustment didn't help. Every hit changed the number readings. I then swapped over to voltage mode and I could smoke her, but the ohms and watts changed constantly, but voltage remained steady.

I figured it was as good a time as any to open 'er up and do an upgrade I'd been wanting to try.
Long story short, removed the LiPos and replaced with Li-Ion INR18650-30Q (max 15A) Samsungs.
Fit was a little tight since the 30Qs are a hair longer, but just enough space to fit. No problem with battery temps (stays around 28-29).
So now I have essentially a 6000mah iStick 50W!

Now the strange part is that it is now reading my Lemo2 at twice the ohms (1.2 should be 0.6), but at least it stays constant now. I can adjust according to the 1.2 ohm and she smokes just like she did when adjusted for 0.6 ohm. Installed my Billow w/ 0.6 dual-coil build and she's been vaping perfectly all day without any flux in the readings (locked @ 0.6 ohm, 4.2v, 30.0w). Only difference is the Billow has a copper pin?!

Charged batts before install and with 12 hrs of vaping under it's belt it has just now dropped down a hair from the charge indicator. I'll smoke 'er down till she tells me to recharge and see what kinda life I'll get. Should get at least a couple-o-days before recharging.

 

[inspects]

Wow....that's taking it to the rodeo......

 

[Dioxyde]

I figured it was as good a time as any to open 'er up and do an upgrade I'd been wanting to try.
Long story short, removed the LiPos and replaced with Li-Ion INR18650-30Q (max 15A) Samsungs.
Fit was a little tight since the 30Qs are a hair longer, but just enough space to fit. No problem with battery temps (stays around 28-29).
So now I have essentially a 6000mah iStick 50W!

Please instruct.

 

[Bikenstein]

Please instruct.

You might like this one. 2 3100 Efest batteries. It's not in English but he still shows all the steps to replace the batteries.

 

[Dioxyde]

Well after viewing that I think I can say that between cars and computers I got enough confusing projects to worry about, for the time being..

 

[Syfi]

Please instruct.

Wanted to try it after watching the infamously terrible YouTube vid! Plus I do know my way around a solder iron.
Was somewhat easier then I thought she'd be. Just de-soldered the top & bottom 'Y' wires from the tabs on the LiPos and soldered directly onto the flats of the Li-Ions. I taped the Li-Ions together with the rubber foam seperator that was in between the LiPos and soldered. A sticky rubber pad covered the top and bottom over the soldered tabs and help hold the batts together. There was extra padding/tape on the bottom of the LiPos presumably to keep the originals from rattling, which was handy for the new batts to fit snugly. Just applied the pad and a layer of the yellow tape & install. Make sure the buttons line up and the rubber for the 2 adjust arrows is correctly back in place. You'll see what I mean when you deconstruct her.

 

[xpen]

First, thanks for this thread. It was a wealth of information for me before I purchased my iStick50 about a month ago.

I've experienced just about every non "send it back to the retailer" issue that's in this thread, and most of them I can write off as human error / oddities / learn to press the fire button.

Yesterday, I learned a new trick while screwing around with atomizer coils. Reproduction steps are below:

1. Set iStick to some reasonable wattage (I like mine in the 5.5-6.0W range).
2. Confirm that the settings are locked via pressing the up/down button and seeing "Locked" on the screen.
3. Confirm that the unit is in variable wattage mode (big number on screen ends in "W" -- in my case, it reads 5.5W)
4. Remove any atomizer / tank from the unit (as if you are switching tanks).
5. If you don't have an eGo adapter, screw one in (I've only tested this with mine in)
6. Click the fire button once quickly to power the screen. Mine says 5.5W on the screen.
7. Take a metallic object and gently swoosh it around inside the eGO connector. I've used car keys and a loose atomizer with very good results.
8. Confirm that wattage has changed significantly. Mine maxes out at 20.0W if I swoosh around a bit.
9. Re-install tank.
10. Confirm that unit is now locked in at 20W.

Based on the above, I would imagine that folks set to VW run a slight risk of modifying their locked-in settings when swapping tanks.

Unless nobody else can reproduce this. Then I'm going to jump on the piss and moan bandwagon.

That happens (randomly, on atom swapping) to me as well, without the need to replicate it on purpose [emoji2]
My istick 50W seems to default at 20W, like yours, and it likes to get back there from time to time. It just seems to forget what your previous W setting was.
It doesn't bother me as I tend to stay around 20W anyway, but I can see how someone may be pi$$ed by that behaviour..

 

[JeremyR]

First, thanks for this thread. It was a wealth of information for me before I purchased my iStick50 about a month ago.

I've experienced just about every non "send it back to the retailer" issue that's in this thread, and most of them I can write off as human error / oddities / learn to press the fire button.

Yesterday, I learned a new trick while screwing around with atomizer coils. Reproduction steps are below:

1. Set iStick to some reasonable wattage (I like mine in the 5.5-6.0W range).
2. Confirm that the settings are locked via pressing the up/down button and seeing "Locked" on the screen.
3. Confirm that the unit is in variable wattage mode (big number on screen ends in "W" -- in my case, it reads 5.5W)
4. Remove any atomizer / tank from the unit (as if you are switching tanks).
5. If you don't have an eGo adapter, screw one in (I've only tested this with mine in)
6. Click the fire button once quickly to power the screen. Mine says 5.5W on the screen.
7. Take a metallic object and gently swoosh it around inside the eGO connector. I've used car keys and a loose atomizer with very good results.
8. Confirm that wattage has changed significantly. Mine maxes out at 20.0W if I swoosh around a bit.
9. Re-install tank.
10. Confirm that unit is now locked in at 20W.

Based on the above, I would imagine that folks set to VW run a slight risk of modifying their locked-in settings when swapping tanks.

Unless nobody else can reproduce this. Then I'm going to jump on the piss and moan bandwagon.

Welcome Alex, thanks.

You are correct, we talked about this the other day. On way i can happen is with ohms detected outside of its working range at the wattage locked.. This will cause it to adjust instantly to the limits. (Safety feature, software design)

While threading on an atty, or a loose coil, poor connection ect.. ... it could detect high ohms through partial connection or low ohms from a parial short. In your case it sounds like it got a partial short - .31 ohms. Which raised it to 20w. The minimum power at .31 is 20w at 2.5v. - Min voltage.
(It could also go down to 20 with an ohm of 5 detected. 10v, 20w)

 

[xpen]

That was my original assumption, now I'm convinced it just occasionally defaults back to 20W, always on atom swap.. Occam's razor to the rescue [emoji57]

 

[HDMontana]

That happens (randomly, on atom swapping) to me as well, without the need to replicate it on purpose [emoji2]
My istick 50W seems to default at 20W, like yours, and it likes to get back there from time to time. It just seems to forget what your previous W setting was.
It doesn't bother me as I tend to stay around 20W anyway, but I can see how someone may be pi$$ed by that behaviour..

I usually run mine at 17 watts. It started to switch to 20 watts on its own, after a few firings. I ran the watts setting up to 50 and then back down to lowest setting, 3 or 4 times. Set it back to my preferred setting of 17 watts, and it has stayed there for last few days.

HD