While all that may be true, the dna 40 does not do TEMP CONTROL for all the wires that the Pico can. Titanium, SS. That's the reason I never bought a DNA40.
Eleaf iStick "pico"
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While all that may be true, the dna 40 does not do TEMP CONTROL for all the wires that the Pico can. Titanium, SS. That's the reason I never bought a DNA40.
Good point Mac...
Since I have (yet) to "advance" to using TC...I, obviously, overlooked that distinction...
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Eleaf iStick Pico RESIN 75W TC Tempreture Control Box Mod - $36.99
Good deal on the new Pico Resin! And you can pick your color! Very tempting!
Good deal on the new Pico Resin! And you can pick your color! Very tempting!
I'm waiting on 2 from there myself (the green and the red, mods only). Received a 5-pack of resin Merlin-type shaped drip tips from Fasttech yesterday and a couple of them look like they might match, so I'm eager to get these in.
If there was a Pico with a DNA60 board i would have to have it. The size of the pico is so desirable to me I have pretty much no interest in anything else, even if it could shine my shoes. And now my perferred rda in black is sitting on an all black pico so I have my stealth mod.
Does anyone have any hands on experience with knowing if the iStick Pico 75W Resin is lighter than the regular iStick Pico 75W? I have two older iStick Pico 75s. They are still my go-to vaping devices, even though I don't bother much with the TC functionality. I MTL with Kayfun Mini V3s most of the time on my Picos. MTL style vaping and TC don't seem to mix very well, regardless of the topper used, at least for me - at least when using a KF Mini V3.
It is hard to tell what the weight is of a Pico is compared to a Pico Resin, but it looks like maybe the resin one is about 75 grams, and the non-resin one is about 90 grams? But that is just based off of what I've read from specifications online - which I know cannot be counted on as very reliable.
I like the idea of the resin model (the blue or the red in particular!), as it should provide some weight savings, and I would be able to do away with using a silicone sleeve to provide better grip. Any opinions on this? I like small, lightweight gear, but am heavily invested in using rechargeable 18650 batteries I can switch out anytime I want in my devices. I tried stuff that uses much smaller rechargeable batteries (like the 800mah ones), but that just never worked out as well, and I'm done playing the built-in battery game.
It is hard to tell what the weight is of a Pico is compared to a Pico Resin, but it looks like maybe the resin one is about 75 grams, and the non-resin one is about 90 grams? But that is just based off of what I've read from specifications online - which I know cannot be counted on as very reliable.
I like the idea of the resin model (the blue or the red in particular!), as it should provide some weight savings, and I would be able to do away with using a silicone sleeve to provide better grip. Any opinions on this? I like small, lightweight gear, but am heavily invested in using rechargeable 18650 batteries I can switch out anytime I want in my devices. I tried stuff that uses much smaller rechargeable batteries (like the 800mah ones), but that just never worked out as well, and I'm done playing the built-in battery game.
The weight difference sounds like half an ounce. Once a few people have them we'll find out of they feel different. I won't own a mod that can't take a silicone sleeve. It helps with grip but it also reduces shock, gets rid of the clonk every time I set it down and preserves the paint job. As far as MTL and temp control, that's what i do and it works fine. I use an rda exclusively. I get no dry hits which lets me vape a lot on a reletively dry wick which is enough a lot of the time and helps reduce my daily ml's. Temp control is just watts mode with a temperature limit. It lets me have a warmer vape even when the coil starts to get dry. With a tank you're getting the same vapor production on every puff and that isn't necessarily the optimal thing.
That's SO me! I am an accident going somewhere to happen. Despite my silicone sleeve on the pink Pico that I'm using, I dropped it in my kitchen onto the ceramic tile floor after bouncing off of a chair.
The only thing that happened was that one of the threads ripped off of the the sleeve of EUC coil I had in my Atlantis... Mod and tank (have the steel diamond cut-out tank on it) are still fine, but the coil sleeve is toast (have to order another). I initially thought about not using a silicone sleeve for the Resins (they're so purdy!
), but I ordered a clear (mostly clear anyway) silicone sleeve for them anyway. It will still allow most of the colors to show through, but my little beauties will still be beautiful down the road (Hell, I may even drop it on a road at some point).
I've never dripped before. Everything I rebuild has been on RTAs, and I've not found any RTA to work consistently well for MTL TC - though I know there are those out there that seem to be pulling it off. It seemed like a great idea to me at first (temp control), but my interest in it has waned. It just ended up being more trouble than it's worth for me. Of course, I am a MTL chain vaper, and that may very well be why it never worked well for me.
Yes, I like the extra protection silicone sleeves give my devices as well, but I don't like how silicone sleeved hardware tends to hangup in my pocket on the draw. I would prefer to see more rubberized finished devices that give you some grip and protection, but don't get stuck in your pockets so much. These resin Picos look like they may accomplish a similar result to being rubberized, just using a different material as the finish.
Those resin Picos are pretty cool looking. The colors can vary pretty widely from all the pics I've been looking at online. Many pics I've seen go well beyond simple descriptions such as red, green, yellow or blue. It makes me wonder if there is much point to selecting a color beforehand as you can with some of the pre-sales going on out there. I'd still probably go with "blue" anyway.
Currently running around 15 RTAs in temp mode on a wide variety of mods from picos, VCT minis, dicodes, yihi etc and works just fine even for tight M2L. No reason why it should work better on big, cloudy builds. Maybe i could help you get it working?!?! What rig you have and what sort of builds have you tried (and what TC-capable mod)??
Currently running around 15 RTAs in temp mode on a wide variety of mods and works just fine even for tight M2L. Maybe i could help you get it working?!?! What rig you have and what sort of builds have you tried (and what TC-capable mod)??
Hey @TheotherSteveS ...I'd appreciate some help with TC...
I've never used TC because it seems so complicated...
I'm a quite satisfied MTL Tootle Puffer...I'm usually at 8-10 WATTS (VW) on my PICO...
I have a Cubis Pro tank...that uses BF SS316 1.0Ω heads (which I believe have Stainless Steel coils)...
What buttons would I push on the ol' PICO to give TC a try???
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Ok bud!! I have never used SS at all but in principle, the pico SHOULD be able to do it I think. I am hoping that someone chimes in here!
Click fire button 3 times to access mode selection (VW, Temp NI,Temp SS...) select Temp SS.
Click fire button 4 times to access watt adjustment applied during TC. Use + - to select desired watts
hth
I assume the built-in SS setting is for 316. I guess @gerrymi can give it a try!
SS should be for 316 or 316L, if the preset does not give the desired result, use custom TCR.
http://www.eleafworld.com/wp-content/themes/searchlight/rar-files/iStick-Pico-User-Manual.zip
http://www.eleafworld.com/wp-content/themes/searchlight/rar-files/iStick-Pico-User-Manual.zip
TC is pretty optional if 8-10 watts in power mode is getting it done for you. I use a pico almost exclusively with an rda in TC mode, 30 max watts, 400 degrees. I use 28 guage stainless at about 1.3 ohm so pretty close to what you have. What I'm learning from the Arctic Fox firmware is my coil rarely reaches 400 degrees if it is saturated with liquid and 30 watts only happens for an instant most of the time. In power mode I would be a 20 watt vaper. TC lets me have mostly that experience with faster ramp up and no dry hits from the rda.
tc is the only way to go in a RDA imo. I prefer it in my tanks as well for a longer draw and steady/consistent warmth but I occasionally switch my tanks (I only use SS) to VW mode for bit, but it's mostly to remind myself why I generally vape in TC mode.
Note: I vape a lot lower ohm and higher wattage. I am usually in the 0.15 - 0.25 range at 75 - 125w (400 - 450f) but I have one build right now (that someone sent me to test) in a g2 that is 0.08ohm in a goon clone and it is amazing. My tester Quad Flex RDA is on a smy sdna75 so that one is built in the 0.3 - 0.4 range and running in the 40 - 50w range in TC mode.
And I'm interested in the opposite of clouds. I'm looking for texture, throat hit, a bit of a nic buzz, and a barely perceptible amount of flavor. If I hold my breath for a few seconds there is almost nothing visible exhaled. That's what I'm after. I also like that I almost never need a spare battery and when that's an issue I carry the Mega. (I'm avoiding carrying spare batteries in clothing I'm wearing.) Keeping power down and ohms high makes my vaping life less complicated.
The Arctic Fox firmware is interesting. I'm learning from the real time display and from having the max temp displayed for each puff. The pico and vtc mini behave quite differently in TC mode. I'd like to understand why.
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