eVic Power Ability and Other Stuff

[KevinW]

Hi Every,

Been off analogs for sometime now and have been using Vision Spinner 1300 mah batteries with Vision V3 (CE5) clearomizers, vivi novas / SVT, and Boge cartos. With Christmas coming I am getting ready to take the next step into RBAs and my very first MOD. So happy about this moment!!!

After looking at everything I have made the choice to ask for the following:

eVic kit - Black / extra battery / eFest LUC charger / igo-L rda / AGA-T2+ or AGA-T3 / RSST RBA / wicks, wire, mesh and a Protank II (not a fan of reviews of Protank III).

The budget for the mod was $100.00 which fits the eVic Kit perfect. It was down to eVic or Lavatube V2.5 kit but went with geek factor of features and overall size. Well, to be honest I really wanted a Wizard Evolved but knew I would never get a $500.00+ mod... even from Santa lol

Anyways, I have heard a lot about the wattage and volt limits of the eVic and don't think it will be an issue for me as I don't really want sub ohms (yet ) but is this something that could change with firmware or is I a limitation of the board? Just curious....

As for the "other stuff" and purpose of the additional information... well, it's really to just get involved in the eVic section and to hopefully see posts that confirm my choice before it's to late. I'm kind of a buyers remorse type of guy... anyways I'm counting the days like a kid again..

Kevin

 

[crxess]

Your ATA-T and RST may give you a bit of grief. You will be best served building them with a bit lighter wire.(30ga)
Evic has a 10 second cutoff and thick wire takes time to heat unless you can push the wattage. Some trial and error should eventually lead to a good setup that will satisfy within eVics limits.
Protank2 is a given for performance and works great on an evic. Dripper should be simple to work with.

All of your choices are 510 connection - a small weak point on the eVic and many China mods(softer metals) Avoid pre-mature failure and disappointment. Get a support ring and use it consistently. Adjust to make contact with each device at the point the center pin has power.

 

[KevinW]

Thank you for the info... great points for a still semi-noob making the jump to this device.

RBAs: so you would suggest 30g wire for me to start. I was asking for 28, 30 and 32 so I could tinker with them to see. Would you agree or should I just get a good amount of 30 g?

Thread Saver: do you just recommend the beauty rings or do you have thoughts on the madvapes air controller?

The last thing I want is to get my first non-ego style device and wreck the threads.

Thanks again.

 

[rasmith1959]

Thank you for the info... great points for a still semi-noob making the jump to this device.

RBAs: so you would suggest 30g wire for me to start. I was asking for 28, 30 and 32 so I could tinker with them to see. Would you agree or should I just get a good amount of 30 g?

Thread Saver: do you just recommend the beauty rings or do you have thoughts on the madvapes air controller?

The last thing I want is to get my first non-ego style device and wreck the threads.

Thanks again.

The Madvapes air controller would be a good investment. Just screw that into the eVic 510 connector and leave it there. Then screw your atty into and out of the air controller. That way if you messed up the threads on the air controller it would be cheaper to replace that instead of the eVic control head.


Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

 

[Portertown]

The air controller works great. When I got my Evic about 4 months ago, the first thing I noticed was the looseness in the 510 threads. I started out by just screwing the tank on until it made contact and then screwing the "cone" between the head and the tank up to the tank. That made the tank sit tight on the 510 threads, but I was worried about the softness of the 510 threads and wondered how long they would last. That is when I got the idea about the air controller. The air controller I got was made out of SS so there is no danger of it being soft and wearing out from putting the tanks on and off like the Evic threads themselves.
As far as tanks go, I highly recommend the Kayfun lite type tanks. I know they are costly. But you can get a clone on Ebay for less than $40 at the present time. I have an original Kayfun lite and one of these clones. They are identical and the parts will ever work on each other. There are two types of Kayfun lite clones on Ebay, with the best one being the one by Tobecco. This is the clone I have and I just ordered a second one this weekend. The only difference between it and the original is the clone has adjustable air flow.
These Kayfun lite type tanks are so easy to put coils and wicks in. I use organic cotton balls from CVS for my wicks.

 

[KevinW]

Kayfun and Kayfun lite are interesting to me but I can't seem to find a 30 dollar one with glass or pyrex. That's why I asked for the AGA-T ones.

 

[PeteC2]

If you are going to match up the AGA T2 or T3 with an evic, I recommend using 32 guage kanthal. You'll get a quicker firing coil and not have to make too many wraps for a good resistance for the evic, which does not take low ohms particularly well.

I use a Smok RSST with #400 steel mesh wicks (I'm lazy and mesh wicks hold up well) with 32 guage kanthal, and get nice vaping from that on the evic.

28 guage kanthal is great for coils for mech mods at sub ohms, but to get enough wraps to make 28 kanthal with enough resistance results in a slow firing coil on the evic. Just my .02!

 

[KevinW]

Yes, after I saw the post recommending 30 g and posting that I was asking for several different g's I found a lot of information pointing to 32 g being the best for the eVic. I changed my requests the other day - lol Thanks for the recommendation.

Does anyone know the answer to my original question - with the eVic's current volt and watt limits, are these limitations of the chip or could we possibly see a change / increase with future firmware updates?

Also, the whole concern over the soft threads of the eVic has me really thinking twice about this unit as a choice. Is it really that bad / soft that I should be looking at a different device in the $100.00 range? The air flow controller or a support ring is fine but should we really have to... how does the softness compare to say a Vision Spinner threads?

Thanks everyone for your help

Kevin

 

[roffles18963]

Just spend the $3.00 on the air flow controller or the ego beauty ring. When those threads get stripped, you replace it again for another $3.00, as opposed to spending $75 on getting a new evic control head. And it isn't just the evic in particular, pretty much all APVs out there have soft metal threads (not like super soft, but it ain't no SS threading).

And firmware (software) cannot make the hardware perform higher than its own limitations. Those are chip limitations, and honestly, you don't need more than 5V/11W anyways.

 

[KevinW]

Just spend the $3.00 on the air flow controller or the ego beauty ring. When those threads get stripped, you replace it again for another $3.00, as opposed to spending $75 on getting a new evic control head. And it isn't just the evic in particular, pretty much all APVs out there have soft metal threads (not like super soft, but it ain't no SS threading).

And firmware (software) cannot make the hardware perform higher than its own limitations. Those are chip limitations, and honestly, you don't need more than 5V/11W anyways.

Thanks for the feedback and answer to my original question.

Happy Vaping
Kevin

 

[crxess]

30 and 32ga are both reasonable choices for Evic. Both will heat more easily. 32 is better served in rebuilding bottom coil devices. ProTanks/etc.
Tanks with SS mesh are in your face so to speak and a overly hot coil may give poor results. Take a look at Design differences to understand. (Submerged vs. exposed)

Tank Ring or Air flow controller - How about BOTH
Air flow controller may help out with some bottom air feed tanks, but most stick up and the controller will not actually reduce air flow. Cranking the Tank down is BAD. It drives the pin down and will damage the eVic.

The Tank Ring serves 2 purposes on the eVic:
1) Supports Tanks to prevent Wobble and Thread Wear.
2) Allows Height adjustment to prevent over tightening Tank and Damaging eVic top Pin
*Pressure is transferred to the EGO threads rather than the Smaller 510 threading.

 

[KevinW]

Well Christmas has come and gone in a flash as always. I hope everyone had a safe and wonderful time with their families.

As for me here is what Santa ended up leaving under the tree for vape stuff!

1. Black eVic kit
2. extra Samsung 2600 mAh battery
3. Efest LUC charger
4. Kanger Protank II - Extra Glass - 10 Extra Heads 1.8 ohms
5. igo - L RDA
6. AGA-T2+ RBA
7. 10 feet of 3mm Silica
8. 32 feet of 32AWG Kanthal
9. 5 400x400 Mesh sheets that are 3.5 in. x 4 in.
10. Tons of eJuice from my favorite vendor

Already built my very first coil on the igo-l and it pretty happy with it. First shot with no hot spots at 1.5 ohms and rocked a berry / melon ejuice like my life depended on it. Not a ton of vapor but that might be an air hole size issue.

Also, I wanted to see how long the Samsung 2600 mAh battery would last me so I left the eVic on all day and night and vaped the you know what out of it at 10 watts. It lasted me about 48 hours.

 

[roffles18963]

Are you running mesh on your dripper? Honestly you'd be better off with silica or cotton (in my totally, humble and honest opinion), just confused on the hot spot. I didn't know you could get hot spots on silica XD

Running my RSST at 10 watts, I get roughly 36 hours of vaping off of my green Panasonic 3400mAh batteries, but that's because I'm on break from Uni and I'm spending more time doing nothing but pacify vaping. D:

Other than that, that's a pretty nice haul you have there. That silica and kanthal will last you FOREVER (I've barely made a dent in my silica and kanthal, and I've been religiously building with them since I got them back in August). Start off small when you drill your air holes out, better to play it safe and be satisfied than to over drill and regret it. As always, make sure you know how to properly use and set up your AGA T2+ and Igo-L via internet research, use a sewing needle to help wrap your silica coils (helps immensely). And torch the ever living doodoo out of your mesh when you get to building your AGA, try to keep it between 1.6 and 2.2 ohms for best results on 32g kanthal.

 

[Phone Guy]

When you build the T2 go get some SS rope. It wicks better than anything I've tried. It makes the t2 effortless. Seriously.

I picked up a piece at my local store for $1... or you can go buy ungalvanized wire rope...

Congrats on your gifts.

 

[JacobDaniel]

Great. I have been using the eVic and RSST (30 ga/mesh) for about a month.
It works great, I don't mind the power limitations and i'm use to 6V mod.

I like the features of the eVic, don't use most of them, just the battery indicator and the GPS.
Just kidding about the GPS, lol

 

[KevinW]

Are you running mesh on your dripper? Honestly you'd be better off with silica or cotton (in my totally, humble and honest opinion), just confused on the hot spot. I didn't know you could get hot spots on silica XD

Running my RSST at 10 watts, I get roughly 36 hours of vaping off of my green Panasonic 3400mAh batteries, but that's because I'm on break from Uni and I'm spending more time doing nothing but pacify vaping. D:

Other than that, that's a pretty nice haul you have there. That silica and kanthal will last you FOREVER (I've barely made a dent in my silica and kanthal, and I've been religiously building with them since I got them back in August). Start off small when you drill your air holes out, better to play it safe and be satisfied than to over drill and regret it. As always, make sure you know how to properly use and set up your AGA T2+ and Igo-L via internet research, use a sewing needle to help wrap your silica coils (helps immensely). And torch the ever living doodoo out of your mesh when you get to building your AGA, try to keep it between 1.6 and 2.2 ohms for best results on 32g kanthal.

You are probably 100% correct on the hot spots and silica comment. I didn't even think about that being a reason why. I mean the coils heated up nice and even so I was kind of proud that I did it on first try (yes, I know the igo-l is said to be very easy) but you might of rained on my parade a little... I mean pointed out the truth

As for the sewing needle... I used a large safety pin that I opened up to provide a little support for the silica as I wrapped it. Still haven't tried setting up the AGA-T2+ yet as my eJuice order just came in and it needs to steep a little more (not willing to fill a tank with weak eJuice).

Went to drill out the igo-L three times and didn't do it (yet). Don't want to wreck it and am nervous to attempt with a new toy. I don't mind the draw on it as is (not perfect but not bad either). I'd only drill for a little more vapor production. I just keep looking at the 1/16 drill and the tiny hole already there and think... you're going to mess this up Kevin lol.

Thanks again for the feedback and recommendations.

Oh, and the igo-L will be 100% used with silica and the AGA-T2+ with mesh

 

[KevinW]

I'm interested in SS rope, ribbon wire all kinds of other things I've seen on YouTube. I've built 1 coil to date and will wait before I try anything else new for a bit. I'm sure there are better options and setups out there but I want to get my feet wet first.

 

[KevinW]

I also got some other little stuff like ego thread covers and the air flow adapter thing to protect the eVic's threads but I do have a silly question... well my wife asked me and I didn't know the answer.

The battery that came with the eVic and the extra battery I received are the Samsung 2600 mAh 18650. Vendors say it is a 3.7v battery but when it is fully charged on the eFest LUC charger it states it is 4.2v. Why is this?

 

[JacobDaniel]

All (good) batts have higher volts than stated when fully charged. It's normal.

 

[Portertown]

I also got some other little stuff like ego thread covers and the air flow adapter thing to protect the eVic's threads but I do have a silly question... well my wife asked me and I didn't know the answer.

The battery that came with the eVic and the extra battery I received are the Samsung 2600 mAh 18650. Vendors say it is a 3.7v battery but when it is fully charged on the eFest LUC charger it states it is 4.2v. Why is this?

The nominal voltage of the batteries we use is 3.7. When fully charged the battery will have 4.2 volts. As it is used(discharged) the voltage will drop. When the voltage gets to around 3.3 to 3.4 volts the Evic will shutdown to keep from over discharging the battery. If a battery is discharged below a certain point, it will not be able to be recharged.