Yesterday I received my Ego Evic-Vt, I immediately had trouble going to temperature mode. I have watched hours of how to videos and when I select temperature mode, it automatically goes back to power/wattage mode. I am using an Ego one mega tank with 1ohm coils. Since I am supposed to be in temp ni mode, hits in power mode are verrry burnt and horrible. I have contacted joyetech and have yet to receive a response. I am desperate please help!!
Evic-VT keeps going to wattage mode
- Thread starter BradyBlasphemy
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I don't know the variety of factory coils for the eGo One, but a 1.0 ohm is almost certainly not a nickel coil.
It senses either an "out of res range" reading, or a lack of rise in the res when fired... and kicks out of TC mode. Normal.
It senses either an "out of res range" reading, or a lack of rise in the res when fired... and kicks out of TC mode. Normal.
More then likely its reading the resistance above 1.0 ohm when this happens it goes into power mode. Described on page 5 under Wattage Adjustment in VT in the notes. mod specs can be viewed on page 1 of instruction book.
Thank you so much guys, I really appreciate the replies. Guess I'll just have to mess with the wattage more to get hits that aren't burnt
Anyone have any links for a specific brand of coils that they prefer that I could try?
For the eGo One tank, you'll use the Joyetech CL coils for that tank.
Available in Kanthal (for wattage mode), and both Nickel (Ni) and Titanium (Ti) for TC modes.
There are also rebuildable CLR heads in all three wire types, though you can choose any wire when you rebuild with your own coils.
Use Kanthal in power mode and Ni/Ti in temp control mode... only.
Other tanks you may buy will each have their own brand coils from the manufacturer.
What wattage are you using? It's easy to overpower and burn coils. Start low and ramp up.
So many little details... too much to guess what you still need to know.
Available in Kanthal (for wattage mode), and both Nickel (Ni) and Titanium (Ti) for TC modes.
There are also rebuildable CLR heads in all three wire types, though you can choose any wire when you rebuild with your own coils.
Use Kanthal in power mode and Ni/Ti in temp control mode... only.
Other tanks you may buy will each have their own brand coils from the manufacturer.
What wattage are you using? It's easy to overpower and burn coils. Start low and ramp up.
So many little details... too much to guess what you still need to know.
- VW/Bypass Resistance Range 0.1Ω-3.5Ω
- Temperature Control (Ti / Ni200)
- Temperature Range 100-315° C / 200-600 °F
- Temperature Mode Resistance Range 0.05-1.0Ω
I would think that if it is actually rated at 1.0 and you fire it, it would pop over the range and drop to power mode. I would guess the coil is just bad
The Stock JoyTech coils are 0.20 Ohm for Ni200 and 0.40 Ohm for Ti
A 1 Ohm Ni200 coil would be very very long! According to steam-engine.org a 1.0 ohm coil would be about 48 wraps on a 3.0mm mandrel or a total length of 530mm (that is over 1/2 a meter). That is more than likely a kanthal coil. Reason why is it burning is that it is hitting full power that you have set, and continues to do so until the resistance changes. Since the resistance doesn't change (because kanthal) it maintains that power level forever.
OP use a Ni200 coil with a blue band or a Ti coil with the red band. Try to stay low like around 0.1-0.5 ohms and you should be fine in TC mode.
Come play in the eVIC VT thread: Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt
There is lots of good information about the device contained inside.
OP use a Ni200 coil with a blue band or a Ti coil with the red band. Try to stay low like around 0.1-0.5 ohms and you should be fine in TC mode.
Come play in the eVIC VT thread: Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt
There is lots of good information about the device contained inside.
- Status
