@mikepetro & any others who are wrapping 2x26ga Ti core wires with 40ga SS316L...
What jig/3rd hand/etc. are you using to successfully achieve a consistent uniform wrap? I attempted this for the first time yesterday on my Daedalus jig and could not prevent the SS wire from overlapping on itself. Is it simply a matter of adjusting the tension on the spool +/- ?
Spanx in advance for any comments, suggestions, etc., berating or otherwise.
What jig/3rd hand/etc. are you using to successfully achieve a consistent uniform wrap? I attempted this for the first time yesterday on my Daedalus jig and could not prevent the SS wire from overlapping on itself. Is it simply a matter of adjusting the tension on the spool +/- ?
Spanx in advance for any comments, suggestions, etc., berating or otherwise.
I use a vise, a couple of fishing swivels, a wire tamer on the 40g spool, and a drill.@mikepetro & any others who are wrapping 2x26ga Ti core wires with 40ga SS316L...
What jig/3rd hand/etc. are you using to successfully achieve a consistent uniform wrap? I attempted this for the first time yesterday on my Daedalus jig and could not prevent the SS wire from overlapping on itself. Is it simply a matter of adjusting the tension on the spool +/- ?
Spanx in advance for any comments, suggestions, etc., berating or otherwise.
I will take a pic next time I do it.
Took off a couple days from the morning coffee somehow and find this posted...↓↓↓
NOOOOOOOOOOO......y'all keep that up i might be able to retire soon
ummm.... what he said...↑↑↑Noooo! Your coffee will always be the best coffee!
I've wrapped it, one 500ft. spool worth of it and 38g but found no benefit over using 36g for wrapping claptons or aliens. The gaps in 38 and 40 are too small and gunk up quicker, takes way too many ft of wire, adds nothing to flavor imo, is harder to clean and takes forever to wrap. My
Here for $29.99
Silo 950 billet aluminum DNA mod case
(appears to not use Evolv's 510)
Not to be confused with these:
for $49.99 (out of stock)
Here:Silo billet aluminum DNA-200D mod case
Look at the button holes.
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y'all keep that up i might be able to retire soon
Lets not hear any retiring talk! You serve the Best! Coffee
We count on you, your like the coffee queen of the "evolving thread"
Here for $29.99
Silo 950 billet aluminum DNA mod case
(appears to not use Evolv's 510)
Not to be confused with these:
for $49.99 (out of stock)
Here:Silo billet aluminum DNA-200D mod case
Look at the button holes.
Not Bad for 29.99
Even if it don't use the Evolv 510 I have too many of those now, I really don't need any more
Did I miss the eclipse ?? I didn't notice any thing all day!
They said on the radio, we would get 65% sun coverage & the sky would darken substantially!
But I must have missed it
We could have used some sun coverage today! 29 celsius 35 with the humidex. You's need to keep that hot sticky weather for your selves, we don't need/ want it!
Steamer's been at it again........
Well, you guys "up north" seem to enjoy sharing that %&^!%# cold weather in the winter so it's only fair we share some of the warm weather in the summer.
OK, Mike, what the heck is that thing?
An update on my K1 with the sticky fire button. I took it apart and used a jewelers fie, carefully on the hole for the fire button and on the flanges of the button itself. It's still sticking occasionally so I'm going to take it apart, again, and use the file on the guide posts inside the case.
It's developed another, unusual and unsettling, quirk. It sometimes wakes itself up, all by itself. I had it on the end table the other day and noticed the display was on full brightness even though it hadn't been touched in over an hour. When I had it apart I looked at the build and board. Other than the silicon used at the 510 and positive battery connection being a mess, it looks fine. If that continues I'll throw another board in and RMA this one to Evolv. It is making me wonder if the sticking fire button is actually the button, itself, that's sticking.
OK, Mike, what the heck is that thing?
An update on my K1 with the sticky fire button. I took it apart and used a jewelers fie, carefully on the hole for the fire button and on the flanges of the button itself. It's still sticking occasionally so I'm going to take it apart, again, and use the file on the guide posts inside the case.
It's developed another, unusual and unsettling, quirk. It sometimes wakes itself up, all by itself. I had it on the end table the other day and noticed the display was on full brightness even though it hadn't been touched in over an hour. When I had it apart I looked at the build and board. Other than the silicon used at the 510 and positive battery connection being a mess, it looks fine. If that continues I'll throw another board in and RMA this one to Evolv. It is making me wonder if the sticking fire button is actually the button, itself, that's sticking.
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Lets not hear any retiring talk! You serve the Best! Coffee
We count on you, your like the coffee queen of the "evolving thread"
Not Bad for 29.99
I have too many of those now, I really don't need any more
Did I miss the eclipse ?? I didn't notice any thing all day!
They said on the radio, we would get 65% sun coverage & the sky would darken substantially!
But I must have missed it
We could have used some sun coverage today! 29 celsius 35 with the humidex. You's need to keep that hot sticky weather for your selves, we don't need/ want it!
Here in NY we saw about 80% eclipse, it got dark enough inside the house it was hard to read when away from a window. I went outside to check it out, it wasn't just the strange dimming of the light but there was a very weird feeling, first thing I noticed was they were right, absolutely zero birds singing. The air was heavy and still, dead still, the temperature dropped a good 20 deg F and it was quite except for passing cars. I went to the shop and removed the glass from a welding helmet, I saw the eclipse at its peak here, there was a small crescent on top and the moon covering the bottom, once it started to expose more of the sun it was too bright too look at through the welding glass.
Is that a coil? Does he vape it or put it on display as Art?
We really do! When we see you's act like your freezing to death & it's not even real cold by our standards!
It's Funny
I guess I was too wrapped up in work
It was sunny all day, it should have been obvious
& at about 2.30 I was wondering if it had happened or not?
What can I say?
Funny thing happened today with one of my 250's.
It was ohm locked but wouldn't hold the ohm? It ran like that all day, with both atty's I had with me.
I connected it to my PC, reuploaded my settings & it works fine now??
It was ohm locked but wouldn't hold the ohm? It ran like that all day, with both atty's I had with me.
I connected it to my PC, reuploaded my settings & it works fine now??
I have a similar sticking fire button on my black k1. The white one works fine. The black one sticks if I press on the left side of the button.
I also developed auto-firing today. It turned out that it was the DoggyStyle rda I was using. The long 510 pin makes it autofire. Hitting the fire button made it read SHORTED. I think the atty is pushing down the pin and hitting the battery + terminal. Maybe a little heat shrink in there will fix it. I just put a different atomizer on it (Taifun gs II) and it is working fine again. I got the DoggyStyle for pocket carrying which the k1 clearly is unsuited for so it isn't a big problem for me.
I opened it up to look at the sticking button. It hangs up on that left edge. I had hoped that filing would fix it but I haven't tried it yet. Your experience leads me to believe that more modifications will be required. I saw that the board was mounted a bit off center. Maybe that is the problem. I may open up the working white one (which doesn't stick and didn't auto-fire but I didn't force the atty down all the way to find out.)
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Oh great Queen, thou image appearest not lest I striketh reply. Me thinks ecf is on the blink again.
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