? for ProVape, is it possible to adapt the tapered ProVari to P3 threading?

[Zen~]

We'll start offering this starting on September 27. I have the parts in stock, but I'm going to be away from the shop all next week and there is no point in having people ship their ProVari in for the modification if I won't be there to do it.

The price will be $45.00 for the conversion, plus return shipping to you. Between now and the time I leave for the week, I'll figure out how the logistics will work.

 

[coldgin96]

We'll start offering this starting on September 27. I have the parts in stock, but I'm going to be away from the shop all next week and there is no point in having people ship their ProVari in for the modification if I won't be there to do it.

The price will be $45.00 for the conversion, plus return shipping to you. Between now and the time I leave for the week, I'll figure out how the logistics will work.

Now, if only you could convert them to take flat top batteries, I'd have a couple to send you...

 

[ENAUD]

Now, if only you could convert them to take flat top batteries, I'd have a couple to send you...

The problem with that is the pin is recessed in the board, an extension to the pin would have to be soldered directly to the board. A much easier and direct approach is to modify the battery, which ALL button top batteries are, the button is spot welded to the positive terminal. I found a way to use flat top batteries in the V2-V2.5 units, but the last time I posted it the thread got moved to the "not advisable" sub-forum.

 

[coldgin96]

The problem with that is the pin is recessed in the board, an extension to the pin would have to be soldered directly to the board. A much easier and direct approach is to modify the battery, which ALL button top batteries are, the button is spot welded to the positive terminal. I found a way to use flat top batteries in the V2-V2.5 units, but the last time I posted it the thread got moved to the "not advisable" sub-forum.

Well... my deal is, I keep a spare V2 in a cigar caddy in the Jeep. I have to keep a couple of spare AW's out there with it as it won't take the Samsung 25R's that I prefer to use with the P3. At some point, Aw's are going to die and I'll be forced to buy another P3 (if I want a spare) due to the fact I won't be buying anymore AW's because I keep my batteries in a rotation. I have some phone calls to make but afterwards will look for said thread, Fred.

 

[ENAUD]

Check your PM's Gin.

 

[AstroTurf]

Why not just continue to buy AW Button Tops?

 

[Zen~]

Why not just continue to buy AW Button Tops?

Yeah, that was going to be my question... the Samsungs are great, but the AWs, for me at least, seem to have a much longer useful life... number of charge cycles etc... I actually prefer the AWs, myself.

Let's also mention the 2.5 NEEDS that nipple top because it's the only reverse battery protection it has.

 

[Baditude]

Yeah, that was going to be my question... the Samsungs are great, but the AWs, for me at least, seem to have a much longer useful life... number of charge cycles etc... I actually prefer the AWs, myself.

Let's also mention the 2.5 NEEDS that nipple top because it's the only reverse battery protection it has.

I still have AW IMR's in my battery rotation which are almost 3 years old. Granted, they don't last as long as new, but my 2.5 Provari's are more of a backup device to me now.

In my P3, I use either Samsung 25R or Sony VTC4's, the same that I use in my mechanical mod.

And to reinforce Provape's warranty, only button top batteries are recommended for use in the Provari 1 - 2.5 versions. Using a magnet or other device to make a flat top into a button top battery will void the warranty, and put you in poor standing with the Provarinati.

 

[WorksForMe]

We'll start offering this starting on September 27. I have the parts in stock, but I'm going to be away from the shop all next week and there is no point in having people ship their ProVari in for the modification if I won't be there to do it.

The price will be $45.00 for the conversion, plus return shipping to you. Between now and the time I leave for the week, I'll figure out how the logistics will work.

Do you know if your modifications will affect the warranty. I'm thinking about buying a new V2.5 and a stealth Kabuki to go with it.

 

[AstroTurf]

Do you know if your modifications will affect the warranty. I'm thinking about buying a new V2.5 and a stealth Kabuki to go with it.

Good Question!!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Zen~]

Do you know if your modifications will affect the warranty. I'm thinking about buying a new V2.5 and a stealth Kabuki to go with it.

Well, it is a factory authorized modification, but I will get a ruling from the grand poohbah so we know for sure.

 

[ENAUD]

@Vape360 and @Zen~
I want to thank you both for listening, and trying to make this dream a reality. I love my ProVari's, and especially the mini's. I am very excited at the thought of having my gunmetal V2.5 mini to be able to utilize the P3 Kabuki! Today is a very good day

 

[ckquatt]

Would love my Zombie 2.5 Mini converted! I'm definitely in!!


Sent from my Commodore 64 using Tapatalk

 

[Zen~]

So, after very little discussion or hoopla... the P3 conversion is a Factory Authorized service, and it will NOT void your warranty if you have one.

 

[jwbnyc]

I have a question.

Would the conversion use a carrier for the chip or will it still be glued in place?

 

[coldgin96]

Yeah, that was going to be my question... the Samsungs are great, but the AWs, for me at least, seem to have a much longer useful life... number of charge cycles etc... I actually prefer the AWs, myself.

Let's also mention the 2.5 NEEDS that nipple top because it's the only reverse battery protection it has.

Ok. First of all, thank you all for your replies and opinions. I seriously consider these things when making expensive and potentially life changing decisions.

I trust what you are saying, believe me. For the sake of argument and so maybe I can know, if AW's are at least as good as the Samsung's, why does ProVape recommend, and in fact make such a big deal about it on their website, the Samsung's over the Aw's?

I ask because I want to know before proceeding and perhaps changing my strategy. At the time of ordering our P3's and deciding just what 18650's to go with, I asked ProVape this question. They told me it was because the Samsung's had a better internal resistance. Not knowing what the Hell that exactly meant, I trusted what they said and decided to try a Samsung. The Samsung does seem to last two daze whereas the Aw's last one.

I am now in a bit of a quandary as what batteries to go with in the future.

 

[Zen~]

I have a question.

Would the conversion use a carrier for the chip or will it still be glued in place?

Still glued, not redesigning the whole PV, just changing the connector.

 

[Zen~]

Ok. First of all, thank you all for your replies and opinions. I seriously consider these things when making expensive and potentially life changing decisions.

I trust what you are saying, believe me. For the sake of argument and so maybe I can know, if AW's are at least as good as the Samsung's, why does ProVape recommend, and in fact make such a big deal about it on their website, the Samsung's over the Aw's?

I ask because I want to know before proceeding and perhaps changing my strategy. At the time of ordering our P3's and deciding just what 18650's to go with, I asked ProVape this question. They told me it was because the Samsung's had a better internal resistance. Not knowing what the Hell that exactly meant, I trusted what they said and decided to try a Samsung. The Samsung does seem to last two daze whereas the Aw's last one.

I am now in a bit of a quandary as what batteries to go with in the future.

So, I can only go by my experience, and I'll preface this by saying I am a DIE HARD AW fan boy... The Samsung IS a great battery, and it has good internal impedance specs... and it DOES last longer per charge cycle in some conditions... but in my experience, the AWs last longer in terms of number of charges before they start losing capacity. BUT... I did not design the P3... it was designed by the engineer that I most respect in the vaping world... and if he says the Samsung is the battery of choice for the P3, then it's the battery of choice for the P3. I still use the AWs and have had great results, YMMV, and I charge the batteries daily anyway.

See how I backpaddled on that? it's because I don't argue with a guy that I know is the best at what he does, and I wasn't aware that he said that's the best battery to use.

 

[coldgin96]

EDIT: double post

 

[coldgin96]

So, I can only go by my experience, and I'll preface this by saying I am a DIE HARD AW fan boy... The Samsung IS a great battery, and it has good internal impedance specs... and it DOES last longer per charge cycle in some conditions... but in my experience, the AWs last longer in terms of number of charges before they start losing capacity. BUT... I did not design the P3... it was designed by the engineer that I most respect in the vaping world... and if he says the Samsung is the battery of choice for the P3, then it's the battery of choice for the P3. I still use the AWs and have had great results, YMMV, and I charge the batteries daily anyway.

See how I backpaddled on that? it's because I don't argue with a guy that I know is the best at what he does, and I wasn't aware that he said that's the best battery to use.

Oh yeah, I can't argue with number of charges aspect, AT ALL! We are still using Aw's that are 3 years old...

Yeah, go to their website and check out the 18650 AW page and Samsung 25R page. Read the description for both. Also, on the P3 ordering page the only option (in the drop down menu anyway) for ordering extra 18650's is the 25R's