The cappy silicone bottles WILL NOT work in this mod...wide metal top cap will sandwich between positive and battery and prevent firing....
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Frankenskull clone
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You don't need to do anything if your atty makes contact. Some do, some don't. You can buy the kit which comes with an atty that works. Otherwise, some attys you can adjust a _little_ bit by screwing out the pin. Best solution is a small washer under the head of the screw on the mod.
If you change out the 510 for a spring loaded adjustable you increase the voltage drop. If you like the convenience of swapping a bunch of different attys around with no problem it might be worth it. For me, no.
Reosmods in Maine sells the SuperSoft 8.5ml bottles but are currently out of stock. Wicks & Wires in Ontario also carries them. The provided bottle works, but just barely. With the soft bottle, it works great.
Edit: Wicks & Wires is now sold out as well. Bummer.
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Curious as to why you think there's a voltage drop with either the VT or FDV spring loaded 510? Springs in both carry no load so I'm wondering where the loss is?
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Agreed. Re extra bottles, just ordered these.
$3.22 Authentic Eleaf Pico Squeeze PC Bottle (10-Pack) 10-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I saw it on the Internet, so it must be true!
I've seen it in discussions on mechanical mods were they obsess over every detail that lowers voltage. The SMPL type is "best": 510 pin on the atty direct to the positive end of the battery. Next best: a screw in the 510 that connects directly to the battery. Adjustable, but not automatic. Least best: spring loaded 510.
Everything on a circuit is "load", every contact point, the atty itself even, not just your intended load which is the coils.
Myself, I push the button and vape. If it seems good, it is.
The FrankenFake setup is about as solid and direct as you can get. I put a washer in, my atty makes contact, and it's all sunshine and rainbows.
Taking a further look at it, if you epoxy that brass ring in place, you could probably adjust the 510 with a screw driver.
I get what you're saying. However given that the spring carries no load and that the positive pin is one solid pin in both the VT and FDV I fail to see where there would be voltage drop.
The VT is convertible between spring loaded and fixed. Same positive pin used in both setups. Just don't see how there would be any loss as long as the spring carries no load.
A direct to battery faux hybrid connection is entirely different and not really possible in a squonk box. That setup could see possible gains because it eliminates a connection.
I've taken a look at the Frankenskull connection. I liked the design so I left it and made it adjustable. So you don't have to read back. Posted these already.
Also ran solid silver contacts
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The VT is convertible between spring loaded and fixed. Same positive pin used in both setups. Just don't see how there would be any loss as long as the spring carries no load.
A direct to battery faux hybrid connection is entirely different and not really possible in a squonk box. That setup could see possible gains because it eliminates a connection.
I've taken a look at the Frankenskull connection. I liked the design so I left it and made it adjustable. So you don't have to read back. Posted these already.
Also ran solid silver contacts
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I guess it all depends on the design. I have a spring loaded squonk pin from FDV from a while back that I never used where the spring would carry the load. What you have there would definitely not add any resistance. I took another look at the mod and ruled out the epoxy idea. I'll stick with my washers. I just want to do the least possible to get good results. I've spent far too much time, effort, and money trying to make chicken salad out of chicken manure in the past.I get what you're saying. However given that the spring carries no load and that the positive pin is one solid pin in both the VT and FDV I fail to see where there would be voltage drop.
The VT is convertible between spring loaded and fixed. Same positive pin used in both setups. Just don't see how there would be any loss as long as the spring carries no load.
A direct to battery faux hybrid connection is entirely different and not really possible in a squonk box. That setup could see possible gains because it eliminates a connection.
I've taken a look at the Frankenskull connection. I liked the design so I left it and made it adjustable. So you don't have to read back. Posted these already.
View attachment 635049 View attachment 635051
Also ran solid silver contacts
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I've got another one of these coming from FastTech. Hopefully I'll get some SuperSoft bottles by then.
The only BF 510 that has ever worked as advertised from FD was the Classic BF510 that was used by George and Jasen in the Peko mod. The rest of the FD line of BF 510's have never passed the test in any device to date. They have all had either connection or leaking problems!! For anyone that installed a FD BF510 other than the Classic and not had leaking or connection problems should consider themselves very lucky for sure!!
Here's some vented Allen head and set screws that might work in frankenskull.
Most of my BF pins or 510 threads leak.
How is the Reo about leaks around 510 threads and pin?
I've wanted to get a reo P67 but I may have to settle for reo grand slotted.
McMaster-Carr
Most of my BF pins or 510 threads leak.
How is the Reo about leaks around 510 threads and pin?
I've wanted to get a reo P67 but I may have to settle for reo grand slotted.
McMaster-Carr
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Those screws need the heads cut down and the diameter ground so they will work inside the 510 of almost any device...
As to the other....I can't remember a time when my Reo's "ever" leaked!! There have been some that have, but it was underneath where the feed pin screws onto the 510.
Ive installed copper contacts and upgraded the bottle to a red cap soy. Got a new 510 on its way and spent the last few days giving it a new lick of paint!
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Indoor use only? The paint I mean. Will be curious how it handles liquid.
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Its suitable for outdoor use and is rock solid after 24hours.
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I finally got mine to stop leaking.
I put thread tape around threads on bottle and by using a long enough piece of tubing just make sure the top end hits the threads on pin.
One thread shows below the ring that contact hits.I didn't cut tube shorter so it hits bottom of bottle and this keeps other end of tube above the first thread on 510 pin.
So far no leaks after a few tanks full.
An oring would work better but thread tape seems to be working.
I put thread tape around threads on bottle and by using a long enough piece of tubing just make sure the top end hits the threads on pin.
One thread shows below the ring that contact hits.I didn't cut tube shorter so it hits bottom of bottle and this keeps other end of tube above the first thread on 510 pin.
So far no leaks after a few tanks full.
An oring would work better but thread tape seems to be working.
Those batteries aren't high drain nor safe(er) chemistry batteries. They are a great battery but, not for vaping in general. Even for a regulated. Be careful Pier.
My box tuning.
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I see it like crunchie does. There isn't much besides some tweaking with the spring switch and the bottle needed to get this one working like a champ.
The replacement bottles I got were softer (later batch) and push like my reo bottle. I still added the grommet to the metal cap hole and top oh the tube where it meets the 510 connection.
The replacement bottles I got were softer (later batch) and push like my reo bottle. I still added the grommet to the metal cap hole and top oh the tube where it meets the 510 connection.
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