General Genesis Blather

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milandjikic

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I need a mesh that wicks. Last shipment from vape-atomizer-mesh is weird. I have never had problems with wicking up untill last couple months when i recieved my last order. I got #200, #300, #325, #400, #500 and nothing seems to work properly. I have even tried ss rope and wraped it with some mesh, tried more wraps and less wraps, but it's no different. Just because there's no difference makes me wonder is it possible that soneting is wrong with the mesh? Also tried all possible liquid ratios, from pure pg to pure vg. Almost no difference...

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Vaslovik

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In my experience mesh is mesh is mesh. If you went though that many grades of it and still have problems you need to review your methods of wick rolling and building. It might well have nothing to do with the mesh, but how you are coiling it. Something is amiss here, and unless you are being sold counterfeit mesh made of something other than stainless steel the fault lies elsewhere.
 
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Annie56

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Are you vaping outside? I have experienced a couple dry hits this winter, tho our winter has been really mild. Plus, both of my NextTinys belched a bunch of juice onto the mods when i took them from my car to the house. Weird--never had leaking from them before.

I have trouble sometimes, esp in subzero weather--my house is usually ~65F in winter. My juice turns to sludge
 

milandjikic

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For outside i carry a subtank with mesh build, so i have amost no problems even with -30 celsius and when im home i use my cobra or silver fox. Im using gennies since day one, thath almost 3 years now, and never had such problems up untill recently. Before, for example, 35mm wide and 40mm long mesh was my standard build for Silver Fox and it would drain every last drop out of the tank. Now, as soon as it goes under half of a tank it starts dry hitting on me. Spent 2 sheets of A4 size trying different builds but no results. I have even bumped pg from 30% up to 50, and still the same. Going nuts allready. Got a clone of a nextgen, he is sort off ok, somtimes even he will surprise me with a dry hit... :(

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Annie56

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Gennies are gr8, but they are fickle, and i think there are alot of variables

Got to thinking one day whilst combing out the rats-nest that grows outta my head--sometimes when i roll a mesh wick, it just doesnt want to roll down. Like it gets tangled amongst itself or something

I get alot of little cuts on my hands from work. I cant build worth a damn when my hands hurt.

If i'm crabby my builds aren't as good.

I bought some truck-stop juice (njoy classic tobacco) just for gigs. Was sitting there all weekend. Finally, i built an aga t2. I figured if the juice was crumby, i wouldnt really care because it would be in an atty i no longer use much.

All chilled out. And i built this thing. And that juice RAWKED.

So i took an aga t loaded up with truck-stop ejuice--on a box mod to my work today, lol
 

Vaya

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If you roll a wick and it fits too tightly into the wick hole, that can greatly impede wicking. I like to leave half a mm, give or take, of 'wiggle room' on either side of my wick as its sitting in the hole.

You might also try rolling hollow or 'straw' wicks, and beyond that, try rolling a hollow wick of one type of mesh with another 'pinner' wick of different mesh in the center.

SS rope is more standard, however. I'm truly surprised you're having that many issues up to and including with the use of SS rope...
 

milandjikic

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Trust me buddy, i've done my research on how to build genny, and for m main atties i was always building wick same way. Same amount of mesh, same gauge of kanthal and same amount of wraps. Everything identical. And then just suddenly boom, nothing seems to work properly. Then i tried to do some extra research, so i finded out, washing the mesh prior to oxidizing with dish soap helps. Tried -failed. After many countless battles got to the point where i typed into google "mesh from vape-atomizer-mesh not wicking properly" and suddenly realised i'm not the only one. People have been complaining a lots stating something changed in the manufacturng procedure or in material used. Later on, i stumbled on couple of them stating that mesh from Zivipf.de for some reason wicks alot better. That got me confused, but i have nothing to loose, lost a whole bunch of nerves allready, i might as well loose some money. So on my next pay day i'm ordering mesh from zivipf.de, just to make my self sure that i tried everything i could come up with.. If that doesn't work, i'm not sure what to do next...
 

Annie56

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I have been ordering 200 from kidney puncher for a long while. It used to be very coarse and hard to roll down. Several months ago, they started shipping 200 superfine mesh. Alot thinner. And i have ordered 200 from other vendors--same thing. Superfine. So you need to cut a few mm more-wider mesh. Ive been rolling straws with a small hole down the center. Been doing PetarK, its not as easy as it looks. But i like being able to take my wick out to clean it, before dry burning the coil. Thats the only thing i dont like about Nextgen. But they are still great to-go rigs
 
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Shawn Hoefer

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Ran into difficulties, or...?

How do you like it?
It's tough building verticals in a well with shared positive and negative posts... Every time I tried to tighten the positive nuts, one of the coils came off. I finally got smart and wrapped the tails around the post before tightening, but still... Came in at .5 Ohms, 500 SS Mesh, resting on my King V2 and tasting great with a 3 nic Green Apple Berry DIY blend.
 
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milandjikic

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I have been ordering 200 from kidney puncher for a long while. It used to be very coarse and hard to roll down. Several months ago, they started shipping 200 superfine mesh. Alot thinner. And i have ordered 200 from other vendors--same thing. Superfine. So you need to cut a few mm more-wider mesh. Ive been rolling straws with a small hole down the center. Been doing PetarK, its not as easy as it looks. But i like being able to take my wick out to clean it, before dry burning the coil. Thats the only thing i dont like about Nextgen. But they are still great to-go rigs
I never bought #200 that wasn't superfine. All my order up so far were from vape atomizer mesh, never had problems up untill recently... As far as build goes, i do peter k method on sfox, don't want to burn the insulator while dry burnin the coil, and for cobra, rsst, mini did clone, aga-t i go classic way, and when i change kanthal i change the mesh. Usually, straw works the best, but with this mesh nozhing seems to work right :(

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Annie56

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If your building method isn't varying--i'm still blaming weather.

Even if the mesh shrinks/contracts just a little--due to extreme cold--all it takes is one little gap to create a hotspot.

For awhile, this summer--i was chewing the nic gum and just vaping a genny at nite. My ceiling collapsed--and i couldn't gain access to my bins full of rebuilding supplies. That sucked
 

Vaslovik

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Weird thing just now, picked up my before-work mech and genny and it was vaping weak. Hmmmm... Checked the battery, it was good, checked the ohms on the genny, too high at .73 so I threw a new coil on it and that went even higher. Same 6/5 wrap 26 kanthal coil I've been using for a year and a half, and it's testing out too high. So I wrap another coil, and that one on the DID measures 1.37 ohm!

Now I'm not doing anything different, I do this every morning, and I'm doing it exactly the same way, but I cannot get that coil to .7 ohm on this genny for some reason. I set it aside, and pulled out one of my 3 work vapes. Tomorrow morning I'll take that DID apart and clean it thoroughly, put it back together and see what happens then.

This is really strange.
 

Annie56

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So--some insight on your DiDs, @Vaslovik .
They work on tension screws. I'm referring to assembling the atty, before you get to the coiling and wicking part.
The problem that I had with the DiDs--the post is too short to fit the insulator, spacer nut, the two jam nuts that go above it, and the pos lead wire. I noticed in pics of DiD builds when the product was first released--people just used three nuts--one screwed down onto the insulator, space--then a two nut sandwich that holds the pos lead. It's tricky. I just built one tonight--using the 26g wire that you suggested. 3mm jig--5/4 wrap gave me 0.9Ω. I was having problems, because no matter how much i tightened the nut onto the pos post insulator, the post itself just kept spinning and floating. So i disassembled the tank again, and got a new bottom (black) insulator for the 510 connection. Reassembled--was able to tighten the first nut onto the deck. Locked the wire between the top two jam nuts. Put the jig into wick hole. Sewed my coil from the top down and attached the neg screw. Made a thick-walled straw.
I think if one were to use 32g--the spacer nut would work. But unless you used a Provari or a VV/VW mod--the vape would be anemic. Thicker wires don't fit, with that odd spacer nut.
image.jpg

I am going to avoid rebuilding my DiDs. All of my 'traditional' gennys. Because my theory is this--the more you rebuild them--the more you strip the insulators. So i am going to avoid doing this--to save on wear-and-tear.
 
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Vaslovik

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. I was having problems, because no matter how much i tightened the nut onto the pos post insulator, the post itself just kept spinning and floating.

Yes, I figured that out early on. You have to have the DID mounted on a mech to keep that center post from spinning whey you tighten it down on top. Then you can tighten that top screw down as you please. I stripped that DID down this morning, cleaned it thoroughly, put it back together, threw a build on it, and presto! It tests out at a solid .7 ohm again. I'm guessing that with successive builds on it that bottom nut on the center post was slipping up.... or something, but it's all good again.

I see that you do your DID's a bit different on the post than I do. Are you tightening the nuts together on the post around the kanthal? It also looks like the nuts on your DID are different than mine. I just do it like this:

 
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Annie56

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Mine are stainless steel, smaller than brass nuts. I assemble the atty. Leave a tiny space between top two nuts. Hook wire between top nuts. Take two pair of needlenose. Rotate top nut clockwise, nut underneath counterclockwise--locking the wire. Then i rotate top nut clockwise, swinging wire in position by the wick hole. Jig in hole. Sew a coil from top down, get neg lead thumbscrew, screw it onto deck, attach neg lead. That is how i deal with these jam nut atty systems
 

Vaslovik

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Mine are stainless steel, smaller than brass nuts. I assemble the atty. Leave a tiny space between top two nuts. Hook wire between top nuts. Take two pair of needlenose. Rotate top nut clockwise, nut underneath counterclockwise--locking the wire. Then i rotate top nut clockwise, swinging wire in position by the wick hole. Jig in hole. Sew a coil from top down, get neg lead thumbscrew, screw it onto deck, attach neg lead. That is how i deal with these jam nut atty systems

Thank you Annie :)

I'll have to revisit this thread later and I look forward to the exchange of building methods over the weekend when I'm not so very burnt out. It was a 22 hour shift yesterday, I got home at 5:00 am, then had to get up and deal with assorted pressing matters. At this point I can't think well enough to exchange views with you, and I'm just going to veg out here with a glass or two of absinthe, maybe more.

Yeah... more.
 
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