GG Tilemahos V2 and Penelope V4 mini official thread

[TheBloke]

Thank you very much, @imeothanasis !

And now I have received my new joy, 24 hour order-to-door. Wonderful. Now for some cleaning and coiling and vaping

 

[TheBloke]

PS. Love the bag. This is the second Greek atomizer I have bought inside one week, and both came with a bag. But the other one felt and looked a bit.. "home made." This one feels like quality and looks great Better than a box.

 

[TheBloke]

I have a quick question - what are the two holes in the edge of the deck for? There is the air hole in the middle, then there are two small holes either side of that

I am talking about these two holes at the edge, here they are near the juice channels but they can rotate into different positions if deck is adjusted:



They are open to the underside, through two slots:



But this area is then screwed down tight into the base, so they are not for airflow. And I don't think they are related to juice, because they go inside the base, not outside into the tank.

So I don't understand what these holes do? Actually, they are more like 'slots' than 'holes' - they are cut outs from the edge of the deck.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I have a quick question - what are the two holes in the edge of the deck for? There is the air hole in the middle, then there are two small holes either side of that

I am talking about these two holes at the edge, here they are near the juice channels but they can rotate into different positions if deck is adjusted:



They are open to the underside, through two slots:



But this area is then screwed down tight into the base, so they are not for airflow. And I don't think they are related to juice, because they go inside the base, not outside into the tank.

So I don't understand what these holes do? Actually, they are more like 'slots' than 'holes' - they are cut outs from the edge of the deck.

Check out @qorax review vid mate!!

 

[67style]

Hey, they are for the collectors tank at the bottom. If liquid floods the deck trough the channels it will not go in the air hole. They will prevent your deck of flooding.

 

[imeothanasis]

Thank you very much, @imeothanasis !

And now I have received my new joy, 24 hour order-to-door. Wonderful. Now for some cleaning and coiling and vaping

Wonderful bloke!
Please post your thoughts about Tilemahos or even better make a video about it when you are ready. I wish you great pleasure with your brand new GG item

 

[TheBloke]

Check out @qorax review vid mate!!

Thanks, have done so now.

Hey, they are for the collectors tank at the bottom. If liquid floods the deck trough the channels it will not go in the air hole. They will prevent your deck of flooding.

Thanks a lot!

Wonderful bloke!
Please post your thoughts about Tilemahos or even better make a video about it when you are ready. I wish you great pleasure with your brand new GG item

Thanks, and yes I will do so.

 

[TheBloke]

23mm looking very nice on the 23mm Dicodes (though actually I have just found the Dicodes is actually 23.75mm, so there's still the slightest ledge - a shame. I don't know why Dicodes made it slightly more than 23mm.)



I'm using 90% VG juice for the very first time - stupid, I should have used a juice I was already familiar with in the GG. I had some problems getting the wick right but it's a bit better now after I shredded it thoroughly with needle nosed tweezers. I have the juice control open very far in this picture but I have since closed it down a bit, as I don't need it open that far.

 

[TheBloke]

Has anyone tried stainless steel mesh in the Tilemahos v2?

It seems to me that it would work - I could have a flat tube going through the coil, to the top of the wick channels. My current rayon wick is only just touching the tops of the channels, not going down the channels at all. A mesh wick would be the same.

(I recently learned about the interesting properties of stainless steel mesh, and I am now interested to try it in any atomizer in which it can work.)

 

[taxnail]

Imeo will not like this ... but what the heck.
Yes i had it a long time in my Ithaka Update (which is comparable to your Thilemahos).
As long as it works, its perfekt (in truth: there's nothing better for Menthol etc). But it's really tricky to get to work. The slighted bit to long or to short and it ends with a flooded Atomizer or a short (electrically). Remember: the Liquid-Control ist moving and may cause some problems when it touches the SSM.
I stopped using SSM along with switching from Kanthal and NiCR to ESG Titanium. The problem is, that this wire heats pretty fast wherever its without liquid resulting in a bad to burned taste. With SSM you will run into this problem very easily. That's why Cotton or Rayon is much easier to handle with lower ohm settings.
But try it and see for yourself. If you ever made a Taifun GT to work with SSM then you have the best chances to get it to work with your Thilemahos.

 

[TheBloke]

Thanks a lot @taxnail that is very helpful.

My SSM arrives tomorrow, and I have ordered a Taifun GT2 and GS2 (clones), and a Vape4Me Horizon (authentic). The Horizon should be here tomorrow and the Taifuns in some days. The Horizon requires mesh and that is why I started learning about SSM. Then I realised it could also be used as a normal wick in other atomizers, so I was interested to try this.

So when I get my mesh I will try in the Taifuns first and if/when I get this right I will try the Tilemahos as well.

You mention you use Titanium. Do you know, does SSM have to be oxidised to use with Titanium? I have been told it does not need oxidising with Ni200, but it does with Kanthal. I am guessing this is because Ni200 is so low resistance. Titanium is higher resistance than Ni200, but still lower than Kanthal and Stainless Steel. So I am thinking SSM might not need oxidising with Titanium either. Have you tried it?

 

[taxnail]

SSM with GT works definitively. As I said: its tricky. But if it works, its splendit.
And then try it with your Thilemahos. You can even use the used SSM Tube from the Taifun in your Thilemahos. Theres nothing better than a used SSM Tube.
Regarding the resistance of NI200 or Titanium Gr. 1 compared to SSM.
A rolled tube of SSM has a lot of material compared to a small wire. Resistance goes down ... real down i think. But you can try to measure that. Tell me what you found out.
You can try pulsing the coil with the SSM tube. If you are lucky this is enough. I tried it lastly. Because i wanted to have a SSM Tube Atomizer again. I was very careful and it worked. And all without heating the material to glow.

And what I said in the first post hasn't anything to do with oxidising. It was about free, not cooled Parts of your coil.
Those can be problematic. Look at the wire, which goes from the Coil to the posts. This may heat to fast with SSM.
If you use kanthal or NiCr this problem is rare. With Titanium (i used grade 2) this problem occured immediately. At the moment i use SS (V4A) for coiling. This works very good ... even with SSM.

at last one thing.
dont try to much at once. Do it step by step.

 

[hobbes4]

Imeo, will the new center airflow piece (flavor chaser) work with the current Tile V2? Meaning, can i buy just the new center airflow piece or do i need to buy the entire rebuild part? Thanks.

 

[calinbotez]

I just bought 3 (three) V2 plus from ESG. One for me and the other two for my vaping friends, which I converted from smoking to vaping, by the way... And a brass cap ( I couldn't resist). I hope V2 plus is up to the expectations.

 

[imeothanasis]

I dont think that esg will sell only the center post hobbes

 

[imeothanasis]

bloke, its not a good idea to use oxidised materials for your vaping. Be careful

 

[Ariel_MX]

After a epic fight with my aboulomania, I bought a Tilemahos v2 Plus, 22mm shined and a Flavor Chaser Upgrade

 

[TheBloke]

bloke, its not a good idea to use oxidised materials for your vaping. Be careful

How do you mean, Imeo? Kanthal will oxidise the first time you press fire - that is one of its advantages, that it oxidises immediately which prevents shorts (allows micro coil) and prevents corrosion.

So I did not think that oxidisation was in itself a bad thing? It just depends on the metal. For example Titanium must not be oxidised. But I believe it is OK with Stainless Steel, like it is with Kanthal.

 

[imeothanasis]

kanthal doesnt get oxidised when you press the button bloke. Also, no metal must be oxidised before vaping. Its the most dangerous thing on vaping. Dont listen to ingnorant people.

 

[TheBloke]

Maybe we're talking about different things. What I am referring to: "Kanthal FeCrAl alloy forms a protective layer of aluminum oxide (alumina)" It's this oxide layer - occurring as soon as you heat the coil - that prevents shorts and protects against corrosion.

I suppose what you mean is that the Kanthal itself does not oxidise? It forms an aluminium oxide layer, separate from the Kanthal itself.

Anyway I'm not quite sure what you're saying is unsafe to do? What we are talking about is pre-heating stainless steel mesh to form a non-conductive oxide layer, so it will not conduct inside the coil. Is that what you are talking about as well? If so, are you saying you think it is unsafe to ever vape with Stainless Steel - either as mesh or as a coil wire?