Since we've been down the "3 batteries will kill you " , " sub vaping is for addicts" , "get a plane if you like to live in the clouds", "Throw that thing away" roads , I've posted this to only the dyed in the wool God lovers who understand all of the plus features of this unit and want nothing else for sub vaping.That said however, the God does have serious issues which I'm sure SMY has already recieved feedback about. All concern the battery compartment alignment , the plunger switch that connects to the actual fire button, and the depth adjuster that controls how deeply one can push on the external stainless square firing button outside the case ....
I've made mods that are easy and address these issues due to the shorting out of my unit talked about in a post of 2 weeks ago ... see the attached picks while I explain the repairs made :
1. There is too much space between the 3 batteries. Almost 1/8 of an inch in fact. Batteries can move around,slide together and they also can make any one battery lean at an angle. I believe this causes an overheat arcing at either the top or bottom of 2 batteries in such close contact ... you can often see sparking at a terminal as you insert a third battery anywhere in the lineup.
I've spaced out all 3 with a channel of heated plastic, then pushed the batteries in to make the hot plastic form a perfect seating for each. They can no longer move. The cobra like head at the top of battery slot one is also covering the negative lead attachment point. Small wooden dowels can also work as seperaters too but I wanted a molded 'saddle' that was conformed to the batteries shape exactly.
2. At the bottom it was found that although these contacts look heavy they bend easily, and bend upward or downward depending on how roughly you've inserted batteries. this causes a very light intermittent gapping and small sparking as the batteries engage and disengage its own bottom terminal.
The Insta Morph warm plastic was pushed in under all 3 lower terminals making it impossible for them to loosen or move during daily use and general knock around activity. Neither the channel guide strips you add nor this terminal filler prevent the blue circuit board from being removed if necessary as long as you've not covered the 7 board screws.
3. At the top right and a bit hard to see is the internal fire switch and it has the ability to back away from the external plunger you push to activate it. They used hot glue to prevent this but hot glue broke away after about 2 months of use. Insta Morph was packed over top of it gripping the switch outer jacket and the black part of the switch while being careful not to touch the tiny push button itself. It is impossible for the button housing to move inward now, ... away from the plunger as you push.
4. Lastly, to the right of the now covered switch you see a small set screw ... this screw is a tapered screw that adjusts the depth stroke one can push the outside plunger metel case fire button . It turns itself over time causing your screen selections and your save or turn on/off abilities to become hit and miss ... adjust it with all batteries in and the black plastic cover that hides all of this at the top terminal area removed ... lock the tapered screw down but understand that when you push the fire button this screw in its threaded base MOVES LEFT AND RIGHT BY DESIGN ! The trick is a light lock on the turning action of the screw but NOT a lock on its ability to slide left and right. If you lock the entire screw down, say ... with crazy glue in its threaded hole you will NO LONGER be able to operate your fire button ... if this last job is too difficult then just remember when your screen selections seem amiss, open the unit and simply re - calibrate this set screw. I used a dremyl to very lightly touch the last twist of the screw's bottom thread to make it drag and screw in a bit more stubbornly, as the problem is simply that this screw adjuster straight from the factory turns way too easily, changing the screen selection results.
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