Good morning everybody . I'm new and researching ,first mech / build......

[MacTechVpr]

Where you at on res right now @bood? What have you sampled, that is. Also, did you score some decent batt's? Glad to see you're hangin in with this thread.

Get the feeling you've already tried a bunch of hot vapes. So I'd tend to start you a bit lower, mebe as low as .5Ω (t.m.c.) using this table as a guide (if you have the batt's for it)…

MacTechVpr's Tensioned Rebuild Central | E-Cigarette Forum

.4mmx2 8/7 2.75mmØ=0.5175Ω 8.12A|34W|150mW/mm² @ 4.2V

Learn to use this tool B. It will save you tons of time and money. As well the Ohm's calculator tab to look at the power numbers.

26 Guage being the equiv of .4mm roughly, .45 for 25G. Both I'd start with and even 24G if you can get it. The latter will get you down towards .3Ω at 2.7mmØ. So you'll have a broad range to work with. I wouldn't build much below all this to start until you have a better sense how warm it gets your kit and batt's (not knowing how hard you'll push this).

The mW/mm² is a rough guide for surface heat output. The target at 150 is moderately towards the cooler side.

Good luck.

 

[VictorViper]

you tell me

what gauge/s wire would you go with ?
if you had to choose would you go 26 with kanthal , or there's something more efficient for mechs

26 is basically my go-to for mechs when using round builds with kanthal. But it's how you build that really counts. Any round wire is a good choice to start with, but 26 will support a fairly wide range of configurations and resistances to play with.

Wire gauge and material are simply variables to be used in your build calculations to achieve different things. You'll end up with a bunch of different wire if you find you like rebuilding, but 26ga. Kanthal is a pretty versatile choice if you have to pick just one.

[EDIT] Missed Mac's post, but seconded - really glad you're sticking with it and keeping us in the loop!

 

[MacTechVpr]

[EDIT] Missed Mac's post, but seconded - really glad you're sticking with it and keeping us in the loop!

This is how versatile Kanthal can be, a tensioned micro 95W multi-wire that vapes as cool as a 60W rig…

Strain's the foundation.

Good luck.

p.s. More details on this build over the weekend as I post on Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.

 

[bood]

Where you at on res right now @bood? What have you sampled, that is.

nothing really.I'm still into some simple slow porn with the things I received.. , and very few time to sit down and do things decently .

Also, did you score some decent batt's?

2x Sony vtc4
for that extra covering..just in case

 

[bood]

[EDIT] Missed Mac's post, but seconded - really glad you're sticking with it and keeping us in the loop!

it's me not you that is glad to have both of you, and more, that keep up in my very slow journey

 

[bood]

Where you at on res right now @bood
MacTechVpr's Tensioned Rebuild Central | E-Cigarette Forum

.4mmx2 8/7 2.75mmØ=0.5175Ω 8.12A|34W|150mW/mm² @ 4.2V

Learn to use this tool B. It will save you tons of time and money. As well the Ohm's calculator tab to look at the power numbers.

26 Guage being the equiv of .4mm roughly, .45 for 25G. Both I'd start with and even 24G if you can get it. The latter will get you down towards .3Ω at 2.7mmØ. So you'll have a broad range to work with. I wouldn't build much below all this to start until you have a better sense how warm it gets your kit and batt's (not knowing how hard you'll push this).
.

juse what i needed ..


do you build and use twisted coils normally for your mechs?

 

[MacTechVpr]

juse what i needed ..


do you build and use twisted coils normally for your mechs?

I use a mix of various coil designs. Mostly singles. But on high power variables and mechs I use two winds I introduced…the twisted lead parallel above and the 3-point (3 lead) tandem dual coils. A pair is actually a quad with the individual pairs heating like a single coil as strain makes them behave like a unified wind.



Fast firing low wire mass and lots of surface area. Less battery consumption and incredible surface contact. Couple that with fire hose ceramic wicking as in the above pic and you have a steam flavor maker on turbo.

Good luck.

 

[bood]

(little update)

I'm not completely satisfied by the lenght of the thing & sure its not too convenient to transport for everyday use; I guess I have a need for a more compact size mech ; I'm sure in the stealth group of vapers during the day and dont like to get very much pubblic attention when vaping

maybe should try a 18350 mod (?)

And:
I need a usb rechargeable battery mod too
( stick form or any very compact usb , battery only )
like an eleaf ijust S 3000mah

I also need this option as it is more convenient when being on the go

dont know
will search around bit more about 24mm/510 mod options

 

[stols001]

I think it's hard to be super stealthy with a mech, unless you put a tank on it which isn't really recommended? All that dripping....

I don't use very many internal battery mods, so I can't help you there, but I'm sure someone will be along with recommendations.

Good luck!

Anna

 

[bood]

Hi Anna!
I have bought yet an rdta .

The ATTO mod 18350 is tiny and safe , i really like it
this among many I've researched
But it sold off at the moment , and another minus its 22mm

 

[MacTechVpr]

I started off like that @bood. Compact and low profile on the move. My fav was a bottom button switch Caravella in 350 mode and a short carto tank. Went to the Magneto for a long time with a 15W Kick to emulate variables using a 350 batt as I could always throw an 18490 in one. A Magnetto is very compact in 350 mode. Wasn't vape bling but versatile. As your nic req (soon) goes down tho (or we try to get it so) you need more staying power than a 350. And walkin' around with a pocketful of 350 cases kinda blows the whole stealth thing, don't it? So let's cut to the chase.

Vape a tremendously wide var of things today but my walk around favorite is a low-profile hybrid and compact RDA like the Derringer. With a moderate build it's stealthy and can run the marathon. Some variations of these reduced chamber RDA's (good flavor potential at low power) have a slightly taller top cap which can allow for some bigger builds when the feeling hits ya.

Safety doesn't come from the device. It's only as safe as what you know it can do (and how to get it). The rest is illusion.

Good luck.

p.s. Not a big fan of telescopes but I'd have to say have a look at clones of the Grand Vapor M1 and Sentinel which can take down to 350. They'll tell ya it's old school but I get more looks and queries on my setups of these than most anything else I own. They look rugged steam punk broke in. The HCigar hits hard and they go 490/650 when you need. I've tried all the clones and got authentics early. If you have a chance to get in on the cheap. I like versatile.

 

[bood]

Mac
besides having to delay and answer better later this week..
just a fast point_ my main research would be for a 24mm circa diameter *compact mech and this narrows enormously the spectrum of choice

*edit, forgot to write another needed word: clean

 

[bood]

btw I appreciate enormously your posts....., you save me some time and supposely money too while giving me hint to refine my searches

disclaimer : this message is thanks bro' inclusive..

 

[MacTechVpr]

TY for the nod and so…preparation meets opportunity. I was just on the phone with two long term advanced vapers talking about this…

Wismec Noisy Cricket II-25 Mod | VapeSourcing

An absolutely redic deal for a 2-batt, voltage (not modulated or pulsed var watt). The closest thing to a straight mech in performance and protected. The three of us agree and vape low to high watt. We run this thing on the low volt side to get incredible output on good coils. Seems runnin on a fresh batt all the time. I run LG HB HE4's (20A) and they last forever on t.m.c.'s at low volt (builds). Love mine and getting another I need another mod like a hole in the head, right? Like I said redic value.

Good luck.

 

[bood]

I saw a lot of mods -really- and sure know about the Noisy Cricket , and I hear all that you say .../ but the boxshape factor really doesn't thrill me , pretty big too for my ideal size
I need a straight little thing.. to carry , and then to take out of a little custom pouch , to vape and to disappear in hands too . So not a 2 battery box . A Calvert style thing

the noisy cricket catched my eyes among many; and people definitely talk about it

 

[gpjoe]

Keep in mind that with an 18350 mod you will get a smaller size but lose a LOT in terms of continuous discharge rate. A good 18650 can be discharged at 20 amps - or more DEPENDING ON THE BATTERY, but even the best 18350 batteries will only safely allow 10-12 amps - maybe. I would only use an 18350 mod to vape in the 1-ohm or greater range - definitely not sub-ohm.

Translation into n00b-speak:

If you go too low with your coil resistance using an 18350 battery your mod will go bang. You can build a much lower resistance with the larger, high quality 18650 batteries - safely.

Also - the 18350 batteries are going to drain quickly compared to the 18650 - so plan on carrying a couple of spares - in a box.

As far as coils - just buy a Kuro Coil jig and some 24 and/or 26 gauge Kanthal. You also NEED an ohm meter to check the resistance of your RDA with the cap on before you fire it on your mech mod. That will tell you if your coil is shorted to the cap - which would also cause your battery to vent and possibly explode.

 

[bood]

thanks gpjoe
I liked the noob speak too a plus for me

26g kanthal: got it
ohm meter: got it
18350 bang on low ohm coil ( <1 ohm ): got it

1+ ohm vaping : how is it ? how is it that bad ?
people obsessed with going extra low .. for ?

 

[MacTechVpr]

Mac
besides having to delay and answer better later this week..
just a fast point_ my main research would be for a 24mm circa diameter *compact mech and this narrows enormously the spectrum of choice

*edit, forgot to write another needed word: clean

Well if you've gotten the gist…I lean towards suggesting stuff folks will grow in to. Your choices I like. I'd prolly be there too if you saw my Magneto/Kick suggestion. But I also know from experience if you have an efficient coil that suits you you'll be seeking higher more stable power sooner than most. I wean peeps off low power within a few months by showing them how to build or select coils that deliver similar vape temp at diff power levels whether 15 or 60 (just more vapor production). You don't want to be stuck with a low pwr solution if you can do/have that. I try not to lock folks into any pwr level/solution. Because honestly, you just don't know until you've gotten some miles. Most end up very moderate, 17-25W. Although in the past few years more are trying the higher watt levels, we like that mellow zone generally. That means a short pull for folks rigged for high watts. And I think that' what most actually do and want in practice. That moderate 17-25W vape.

Tensioned micro coil delivery devices. :)

• MacTechVpr
• Oct 31, 2017

For me, what I found and I think is ultimately desirable by most is greater vapor production on demand at a temp that's consistent or complementary to the juices that we like. Strictly fixing resistance or wattage is not a formula that will help you find that. Keep the horizons open and you'll get there quicker and cheaper.

Tensioned microcoil, Twisted Lead Parallel Build

• MacTechVpr
• Oct 31, 2017

As for 24's, lots of options. I like the AVID M1P5 (above) and the BJM Admiral 20700 for its versatility and hitting power. Authentic's come at a prince's ransom but clones are frankly a bargain. Even tho competition devices they can take smaller builds and as such are very efficient. Like the M1P5 with the mini cap as it's really small (short) with the 11mm Dragon low-profile drip tip for an 18650. Compact and feel, fire solid.

Enjoy the journey and…

Good luck.

 

[bood]

But I also know from experience if you have an efficient coil that suits you you'll be seeking higher more stable power sooner than most.

I'll take it

so you suggest me to leave around the 18350 pocket mech idea
for that extra mile to cover still, ..then eventually rethink about it

18650 mech : have it
I know someone wants prove of that
I will prove it. btw it's pretty modern and classy..but not stealth

so no big needs apart transportation and moving it around..
still searching for the pouch that I want

and the hassle of being around the office wanting a stealth vape here and there during the day, this nice peace is not really the stealth thing .
just that 4 cm less in lenght would have done the trick .

 

[MacTechVpr]

Keep in mind that with an 18350 mod you will get a smaller size but lose a LOT in terms of continuous discharge rate. A good 18650 can be discharged at 20 amps - or more DEPENDING ON THE BATTERY, but even the best 18350 batteries will only safely allow 10-12 amps - maybe. I would only use an 18350 mod to vape in the 1-ohm or greater range - definitely not sub-ohm.

Translation into n00b-speak:

If you go too low with your coil resistance using an 18350 battery your mod will go bang. You can build a much lower resistance with the larger, high quality 18650 batteries - safely.

Also - the 18350 batteries are going to drain quickly compared to the 18650 - so plan on carrying a couple of spares - in a box.

As far as coils - just buy a Kuro Coil jig and some 24 and/or 26 gauge Kanthal. You also NEED an ohm meter to check the resistance of your RDA with the cap on before you fire it on your mech mod. That will tell you if your coil is shorted to the cap - which would also cause your battery to vent and possibly explode.

Agree on the advantages of betters amps. A nice compromise is the 18490/500 for compact. And I have a bunch of the Zen/Steam-Monkey variants which I dial in at 80% of the amp limit for AW's. Mostly tabs and cooler vapes. But I disagree with you on the coiler for reasons I've posted about from time to time on using strain to optimize Kanthal and build coherent survivable rigidity into coils. Bending doesn't result in such consistent forms and just ignores Kanthal's deliberate material advantages, i.e. what it's designed for. And as Dampmaskin's Steam-Engine points out small variations in length (lateral or longitudinal spread) multiplied by #turns can add up in resistance and [I say] vary with each wind. So why not just simply wind a vape the same way always? Not just sorta like the last vape. Just the vape we like.

Yielding the soapbox Sorry Joe.

Good luck.