Good Tank for Subox Mini-C

[MrGiggles]

I bought a Kangertech Subox Mini-C a couple months ago. I'm very happy with it, draw and flavor are excellent, but the darn thing leaks like crazy.

I'm not sure if it's weeping through the coil or past the O-rings. The tank and coil on this unit are just a slip fit which I'm not that fond of.

I have tried rotating the tank to close off the juice holes but it still leaked.

Any suggestions for a proven leak-free tank (similar in capacity to the factory tank) that will work on the Subox Mini-C?

To clarify, I'm not that familiar with the terminology, but I want to replace the whole tank, mouthpiece, and coil assembly (RBA?) with something better.

 

[geoffd]

I bought a Kangertech Subox Mini-C a couple months ago. I'm very happy with it, draw and flavor are excellent, but the darn thing leaks like crazy.

I'm not sure if it's weeping through the coil or past the O-rings. The tank and coil on this unit are just a slip fit which I'm not that fond of.

I have tried rotating the tank to close off the juice holes but it still leaked.

Any suggestions for a proven leak-free tank (similar in capacity to the factory tank) that will work on the Subox Mini-C?

To clarify, I'm not that familiar with the terminology, but I want to replace the whole tank, mouthpiece, and coil assembly (RBA?) with something better.

I'm pretty new at this but after my first experience with a leaking tank I got an iSub Apex (3ml). Good airflow, top fill and it does not leak.

 

[JustWondering1]

I bought a Kangertech Subox Mini-C a couple months ago. I'm very happy with it, draw and flavor are excellent, but the darn thing leaks like crazy.

I'm not sure if it's weeping through the coil or past the O-rings. The tank and coil on this unit are just a slip fit which I'm not that fond of.

I have tried rotating the tank to close off the juice holes but it still leaked.

Any suggestions for a proven leak-free tank (similar in capacity to the factory tank) that will work on the Subox Mini-C?

To clarify, I'm not that familiar with the terminology, but I want to replace the whole tank, mouthpiece, and coil assembly (RBA?) with something better.

I use a few different tanks with my Mini-C mods, none of them are bad about leaking and all work well with the mod. My style of vaping is MTL though, so my tanks may not work for you.

My primary tanks are the 22 mm Digiflavor Siren GTA, the Kabuki, a Vika Fantasy Clone from Fast Tech, and a Joyetech eGo ONE tank with the CLR coils. The Siren is primarily a MTL tank, but some are very happy using it for restricted direct lung vaping using the afc opened up. The only time I've had problems with the Siren were when I didn't have enough wick in the juice channels.

 

[vernj]

I use a few different tanks with my Mini-C mods, none of them are bad about leaking and all work well with the mod. My style of vaping is MTL though, so my tanks may not work for you.

My primary tanks are the 22 mm Digiflavor Siren GTA, the Kabuki, a Vika Fantasy Clone from Fast Tech, and a Joyetech eGo ONE tank with the CLR coils. The Siren is primarily a MTL tank, but some are very happy using it for restricted direct lung vaping using the afc opened up. The only time I've had problems with the Siren were when I didn't have enough wick in the juice channels.

I know this is an old post but I wanted to make sure if the 22 mm Digiflavor Siren GTA is can be used with the subox mini C. While I am at it I wanted to ask if you are using 26 guage kanthal? If so, is there a particular one (mini, micro etc) or is it simply 26 guage kanthal? Also what diameter coil/number of wraps would you suggest as someone looking to buy this tank? Looking for more of a MTL experience and have seen great reviews of this product after reading your post where you mentioned it. Any help would be great! Thank you!

 

[JustWondering1]

I know this is an old post but I wanted to make sure if the 22 mm Digiflavor Siren GTA is can be used with the subox mini C. While I am at it I wanted to ask if you are using 26 guage kanthal? If so, is there a particular one (mini, micro etc) or is it simply 26 guage kanthal? Also what diameter coil/number of wraps would you suggest as someone looking to buy this tank? Looking for more of a MTL experience and have seen great reviews of this product after reading your post where you mentioned it. Any help would be great! Thank you!

I use the 22 mm Digiflavor Siren with the Subox Mini-C all the time. They work great together. I use either 26 ga. Kanthal or 28 ga. Kanthal exclusively. If you buy either 26 ga and 28 ga. kanthal, you are buying regular, round kanthal wire. You don't want the flat or ribbon kanthal to make the type of coils I make. If you are not familiar with building your own coils, I think 26 ga. is a little bit easier to work with.

For the Siren, I highly recommend you use a 3mm rod to wrap your wire around, which will give you a 3 mm diameter coil. With a 3 mm diameter coil, you will be able to stuff more wick in there, which is what you need for the Siren to make sure you do not get juice seepage through the airflow control. I usually make 10 or 12 wraps and then, while the kanthal is still on the rod, put it next to the screws on the build deck to see what size it should be to easily fit between the screw heads. Then, use needle nose pliers to unwrap some of the wraps on each side until it's the right size to fit.

I always make a slightly spaced coil, which is very easy to do. If you watch the more recent Phil Busardo you tube videos, you can see him make a slightly spaced coils. I do it the way he does it. While the coil is still on the 3 mm rod, I put my thumb over one of the coil leads to hold it in place, while I take needle nose pliers and grip the other lead and gently pull it outwards. Don't pull it too hard, or your coil will no longer fit between the screw heads. You can use your fingers to push the coil back together if you've stretched it too far. Then, use an ohm meter to make sure your coil gives you the ohm read you want. The coils I make are anywhere from .9 or 1.0 ohm to 2.0 ohms, but are usually around 1.2 ohms.

I'm a big fan of the Coil-Master DIY kits. It makes coil building much easier because it has a great coiling jig, and everything else I need, including an ohm meter all in one easily transportable kit. Once you have this kit, the only other things you need to make the coils I make is the 26 or 28 ga. kanthal and Japanese organic cotton pads for wicking. You can probably find a better price for this kit from another vendor, but I recommend you get an authentic kit, whether it's an authentic kit from Coil-Master, UD or anyone else.

Coil Master DIY Kit V3 - Coil Master

Good luck with your Siren! If you want to read more about the Siren, visit our Siren thread!

Digiflavor Siren GTA

 

[vernj]

I use the 22 mm Digiflavor Siren with the Subox Mini-C all the time. They work great together. I use either 26 ga. Kanthal or 28 ga. Kanthal exclusively. If you buy either 26 ga and 28 ga. kanthal, you are buying regular, round kanthal wire. You don't want the flat or ribbon kanthal to make the type of coils I make. If you are not familiar with building your own coils, I think 26 ga. is a little bit easier to work with.

For the Siren, I highly recommend you use a 3mm rod to wrap your wire around, which will give you a 3 mm diameter coil. With a 3 mm diameter coil, you will be able to stuff more wick in there, which is what you need for the Siren to make sure you do not get juice seepage through the airflow control. I usually make 10 or 12 wraps and then, while the kanthal is still on the rod, put it next to the screws on the build deck to see what size it should be to easily fit between the screw heads. Then, use needle nose pliers to unwrap some of the wraps on each side until it's the right size to fit.

I always make a slightly spaced coil, which is very easy to do. If you watch the more recent Phil Busardo you tube videos, you can see him make a slightly spaced coils. I do it the way he does it. While the coil is still on the 3 mm rod, I put my thumb over one of the coil leads to hold it in place, while I take needle nose pliers and grip the other lead and gently pull it outwards. Don't pull it too hard, or your coil will no longer fit between the screw heads. You can use your fingers to push the coil back together if you've stretched it too far. Then, use an ohm meter to make sure your coil gives you the ohm read you want. The coils I make are anywhere from .9 or 1.0 ohm to 2.0 ohms, but are usually around 1.2 ohms.

I'm a big fan of the Coil-Master DIY kits. It makes coil building much easier because it has a great coiling jig, and everything else I need, including an ohm meter all in one easily transportable kit. Once you have this kit, the only other things you need to make the coils I make is the 26 or 28 ga. kanthal and Japanese organic cotton pads for wicking. You can probably find a better price for this kit from another vendor, but I recommend you get an authentic kit, whether it's an authentic kit from Coil-Master, UD or anyone else.

Coil Master DIY Kit V3 - Coil Master

Good luck with your Siren! If you want to read more about the Siren, visit our Siren thread!

Digiflavor Siren GTA

Fantastic information! I was a bit confused at first because there is a subox mini and a mini c and I wanted to make absolutely sure before ordering for my subox mini c. I just ordered the Master of Cloud
Kanthal & Japanese Cotton - 100 ft 26 Gauge AWG A1 Round Wire 0.40mm A-1 26g. I will absolutely consider getting the Coil Master kits as they are not too pricey and seem to be worth the investment even for the sake of convenience and accuracy. In the meantime I have needle nose pliers and I at least ordered a 5 in 1 wick coiler tool. At least i'll have that in the meantime. I know this thing comes with a .0.5ohm SSOCC Atomizer Head. By the way why do you run the larger ohms? Does this help for MTL? Thank you again for all the great info!!!!!

 

[JustWondering1]

Fantastic information! I was a bit confused at first because there is a subox mini and a mini c and I wanted to make absolutely sure before ordering for my subox mini c. I just ordered the Master of Cloud
Kanthal & Japanese Cotton - 100 ft 26 Gauge AWG A1 Round Wire 0.40mm A-1 26g. I will absolutely consider getting the Coil Master kits as they are not too pricey and seem to be worth the investment even for the sake of convenience and accuracy. In the meantime I have needle nose pliers and I at least ordered a 5 in 1 wick coiler tool. At least i'll have that in the meantime. I know this thing comes with a .0.5ohm SSOCC Atomizer Head. By the way why do you run the larger ohms? Does this help for MTL? Thank you again for all the great info!!!!!

Happy to help! You got the right wire and wick. If your cotton is the organic japanese cotton, don't be alarmed if it has specs of darker cotton. That's how it is supposed to be because it's unbleached cotton, and will give you better flavor.

You might want to look at Phil Busardo's Digiflavor Siren You Tube review. If you've got the needle nose pliers, and the coiling tool, that's good. You will also need clippers for the wire, a small precision phillips head screwdriver for the build deck screws in the Siren, and an ohm meter. You can use fingernail clippers for the wire, but you really should have an ohm meter. All of this stuff comes in the Coil-Master kit, or any good coil building kit.

The SSOC atomizer head works in the tank that comes in the Subox Mini-C kit, but it won't work in the Siren. That tank is the Kanger Protank 5, and I've never used any of mine. I understand it is a good tank, but has pretty wide open airflow, so it's not great for MTL vaping. I've also heard the Protank 5 is press fit, so it is likely to leak eventually. Yes, MTL vapers generally make higher ohm coils, which provide more resistance and allows a tighter draw and a more flavorful vape.

 

[MrGiggles]

I'm sorry that I never updated this, but I ended up going with a Tobeco super tank mini.

No more leaks, great flavor, and the included .5 ohm coil works well with the K-box. It also delivers a nic hit that is far better than what I've experienced from other devices.

 

[Michiel]

I bought a Kangertech Subox Mini-C a couple months ago. I'm very happy with it, draw and flavor are excellent, but the darn thing leaks like crazy.

I'm not sure if it's weeping through the coil or past the O-rings. The tank and coil on this unit are just a slip fit which I'm not that fond of.

I have tried rotating the tank to close off the juice holes but it still leaked.

Any suggestions for a proven leak-free tank (similar in capacity to the factory tank) that will work on the Subox Mini-C?

To clarify, I'm not that familiar with the terminology, but I want to replace the whole tank, mouthpiece, and coil assembly (RBA?) with something better.

I would recommend the Veco One, however my subox mini C tank never leaked. Maybe don't prime the coils and vape at a high wattage?

Anyway: The veco one tank has good top airflow and excellent (and cheap!) coils. Mainly for 50/50 juices, but well, you aren't going above 50 watts with your system