On Vapourday, we shall release 2 new products based on the X Tubes 18500, 18650 SS & LUX Edition:
GP X SS Edition
GP X LUX Edition
GP Series by VapourArt - Advance Notifications, Tips & Tricks & Updates Thread
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On Vapourday, we shall release 2 new products based on the X Tubes 18500, 18650 SS & LUX Edition:
GP X SS Edition
GP X LUX Edition
GP Service
We wish to provide client care instead of customer support, because most people who buy from VapourArt's store become repeated buyers and we feel obliged to honour their appreciation and support.
We did an agreement with DHL to offer a remote pickup delivery service for our clients worldwide for $25,58/€20 for our products in cases of repair, re-polish, laser etching, etc. When someone wants to use this service, he may contact us via email (until we create the GP Service inside the store). We'll send him a form, he has just to print and fill it for the DHL courier who is going to call them in 24 hours to pick up the shipment at an convenient hour and place.
The TiX has a free of charge polishing service, the shipping back and forth will be paid only, while the other GP Series products will have a small fee per item for polishing and laser etching plus shipping with registered mail or DHL/remote pickup.
We wish to provide client care instead of customer support, because most people who buy from VapourArt's store become repeated buyers and we feel obliged to honour their appreciation and support.
We did an agreement with DHL to offer a remote pickup delivery service for our clients worldwide for $25,58/€20 for our products in cases of repair, re-polish, laser etching, etc. When someone wants to use this service, he may contact us via email (until we create the GP Service inside the store). We'll send him a form, he has just to print and fill it for the DHL courier who is going to call them in 24 hours to pick up the shipment at an convenient hour and place.
The TiX has a free of charge polishing service, the shipping back and forth will be paid only, while the other GP Series products will have a small fee per item for polishing and laser etching plus shipping with registered mail or DHL/remote pickup.
Titanium grade 5
As many of you know, we started to play with Titanium a while ago. TiX was the fruit of our first attempt in Ti grade 2.
Nowadays we are messing with Titanium grade 5 - surgical grade. We made comparison tests between Ti grade 2 and grade 5 with laboratory and industrial sclerometers which of course favoured the grade 5. We used for both of them Rockwell (HCR) and Vickers (VH) tests to ensure reliable results. Grade 2 is softer and by doing one test only the result could be inaccurate. We found out that our Ti grade 5 bars have a Vickers hardness (VH) 380, while the Ti grade 2 bars showed a hardness (VH) 260.
The Rockwell hardness determines the hardness by measuring the depth of penetration of an indenter under a large load compared to the penetration made by a preload.
The Vickers hardness is to observe the questioned material's ability to resist plastic deformation from a standard source.
In our case, these tests can indicate the scratch resistance of a mod and indicate at a degree the coefficiency of friction in the threads and moving parts.
Then we proceeded to measure both grades, by hardening them in an industrial kiln at 1382 ºF, 1616 ºF and 2192 ºF. We cooled them down in 3 different ways: air, oil and petroleum, all of them showed the same results. Ti grade 2 hardened to 280 VH from 260 VH, while the Ti grade 5 remained at 380 VH!
Amazing! No need to harden it at all!
Ti grade 2 hardened at 2192 ºF. Almost burned but still softer than grade 5.
Ti grade 5 non hardened but tougher.
As many of you know, we started to play with Titanium a while ago. TiX was the fruit of our first attempt in Ti grade 2.
Nowadays we are messing with Titanium grade 5 - surgical grade. We made comparison tests between Ti grade 2 and grade 5 with laboratory and industrial sclerometers which of course favoured the grade 5. We used for both of them Rockwell (HCR) and Vickers (VH) tests to ensure reliable results. Grade 2 is softer and by doing one test only the result could be inaccurate. We found out that our Ti grade 5 bars have a Vickers hardness (VH) 380, while the Ti grade 2 bars showed a hardness (VH) 260.
The Rockwell hardness determines the hardness by measuring the depth of penetration of an indenter under a large load compared to the penetration made by a preload.
The Vickers hardness is to observe the questioned material's ability to resist plastic deformation from a standard source.
In our case, these tests can indicate the scratch resistance of a mod and indicate at a degree the coefficiency of friction in the threads and moving parts.
Then we proceeded to measure both grades, by hardening them in an industrial kiln at 1382 ºF, 1616 ºF and 2192 ºF. We cooled them down in 3 different ways: air, oil and petroleum, all of them showed the same results. Ti grade 2 hardened to 280 VH from 260 VH, while the Ti grade 5 remained at 380 VH!
Amazing! No need to harden it at all!
Ti grade 2 hardened at 2192 ºF. Almost burned but still softer than grade 5.
Ti grade 5 non hardened but tougher.
GP Salt & Pepper Tank
The GP® Salt & Pepper tank will be offered at 40% discount on Vapourday 29 November. Its development reached the technical limits as a construction, we can't improve it further. From the other side, we want to use our CNC machines for other works, so we have to discontinue its production. As a thank you to the people who support us all the time, we'll offer the last units and all their parts at extremely low price.
The GP® Salt & Pepper tank will be offered at 40% discount on Vapourday 29 November. Its development reached the technical limits as a construction, we can't improve it further. From the other side, we want to use our CNC machines for other works, so we have to discontinue its production. As a thank you to the people who support us all the time, we'll offer the last units and all their parts at extremely low price.
GP Series December Update
As you may know we use 4 CNC facilities, 2 in Sofia and 2 in Athens to make our creations, travelling frequently to coordinate the whole production. Our machinists in both countries cooperate with each other perfectly and after 2 years of collective and hard work ( and innumerable back and forth trips), it is impossible for anyone to distinguish their craftsmanship in terms of quality and that was planned from the beginning. Actually this was the most difficult task which defined the necessity of using aluminium bronze rods, EU certified 316 SS rods and a strict selection of quality materials like PEEK type II reinforced with glass fibres for the insulating parts. From a technical point of view the idea is simple: materials of higher specs have always the same behaviour during processing, ensuring uniform results and superior precision machining, satisfying the modders' compulsive - obsessive nature as well.
Ensuring all these, the next logical step is the cultivation and evolution of design and switch's efficiency under the golden rule of aesthetics: less is more.
Many switches in the market have a logo engraved on the button, which can be felt, especially when the travel is short and we find this sense somewhat distracting for an object stack in our hands for the most part of the day (and night for avid vapers like me). This is reason we haven't put our insignia of aeolipile or the GP logotype there. A smooth button surface gives the most satisfying feeling in my opinion.
Features of the GP Piccolo v4:
GPin No adjustments are needed to accommodate different atomizers and batteries. GPin is a double pogo pin that stands well down to 0,3 Ω, although we don't recommend to go below 1,0-1,5 Ω with a 14500 battery. GP Spheroid has a strong throat hit at 1,8Ω, so Ι don't find the reason to deplete your battery with subOhm resistance values.
Length The new version is 1 mm shorter than the previous ones as a result of the new design.
Innovational switch All the bottom switches I know, push and move the battery in order to close the circuit. This is not happening with GP Piccolo 4's switch. The battery is under the constant pressure from the GPin and the negative pole doesn't move, increasing in that way the conductivity.
Switch's throw Up to 0,3 mm, a feather touch switch.
Availability During January it comes out, I will post photos, pricing and more detailed features in a few days, when we finish the polishing. It will come with polished ends and brushed or bead blasted tubes to match with the corresponding GP Spheroid units.
Engravings Starting from the GP Piccolo v4 and onwards, all tubes will have engraved only the GP logotype and future atomisers like the Heron X will have the aeolipile insignia engraved on them. The top cap is redesigned as well, without the 3D engraving the GP PAPS v3 has. These changes saved manufacturing cost which will be reflected to a reduced price as well. Many months now, we design and redesign the GP Piccolo, trying to lessen processing time, increase conductivity, innovate and give better aesthetics without sacrificing quality in materials and finesse. The serial numbers will be laser etched inside the switch housing and they shall continue from the total of all versions of GP Piccolo to honour the history of this little mod that created back in 2012. This will be the norm with all the upcoming versions of existing mods and atomizers.
Precision machining This is hard to believe it, but the precision machining is better than before, with tolerance of the locking ring to be 0,01-0,02 mm, way below the calibration standards, for smooth operation. The threading of the moving parts is even smoother than before. It is a small gem!
Materials EU certified 316 SS is not what most machinists are happy to work with, due to its hardness, but when you polish it, especially in brushed finish, its beauty and surface structure is radically distinctive and without equal in mods made from lower grades.
Conductivity We estimate at least 20% increase in conductivity in comparison with the previous version of GP Piccolo due to the redesigned switch.
As you may know we use 4 CNC facilities, 2 in Sofia and 2 in Athens to make our creations, travelling frequently to coordinate the whole production. Our machinists in both countries cooperate with each other perfectly and after 2 years of collective and hard work ( and innumerable back and forth trips), it is impossible for anyone to distinguish their craftsmanship in terms of quality and that was planned from the beginning. Actually this was the most difficult task which defined the necessity of using aluminium bronze rods, EU certified 316 SS rods and a strict selection of quality materials like PEEK type II reinforced with glass fibres for the insulating parts. From a technical point of view the idea is simple: materials of higher specs have always the same behaviour during processing, ensuring uniform results and superior precision machining, satisfying the modders' compulsive - obsessive nature as well.
Ensuring all these, the next logical step is the cultivation and evolution of design and switch's efficiency under the golden rule of aesthetics: less is more.
Many switches in the market have a logo engraved on the button, which can be felt, especially when the travel is short and we find this sense somewhat distracting for an object stack in our hands for the most part of the day (and night for avid vapers like me). This is reason we haven't put our insignia of aeolipile or the GP logotype there. A smooth button surface gives the most satisfying feeling in my opinion.
Features of the GP Piccolo v4:
GPin No adjustments are needed to accommodate different atomizers and batteries. GPin is a double pogo pin that stands well down to 0,3 Ω, although we don't recommend to go below 1,0-1,5 Ω with a 14500 battery. GP Spheroid has a strong throat hit at 1,8Ω, so Ι don't find the reason to deplete your battery with subOhm resistance values.
Length The new version is 1 mm shorter than the previous ones as a result of the new design.
Innovational switch All the bottom switches I know, push and move the battery in order to close the circuit. This is not happening with GP Piccolo 4's switch. The battery is under the constant pressure from the GPin and the negative pole doesn't move, increasing in that way the conductivity.
Switch's throw Up to 0,3 mm, a feather touch switch.
Availability During January it comes out, I will post photos, pricing and more detailed features in a few days, when we finish the polishing. It will come with polished ends and brushed or bead blasted tubes to match with the corresponding GP Spheroid units.
Engravings Starting from the GP Piccolo v4 and onwards, all tubes will have engraved only the GP logotype and future atomisers like the Heron X will have the aeolipile insignia engraved on them. The top cap is redesigned as well, without the 3D engraving the GP PAPS v3 has. These changes saved manufacturing cost which will be reflected to a reduced price as well. Many months now, we design and redesign the GP Piccolo, trying to lessen processing time, increase conductivity, innovate and give better aesthetics without sacrificing quality in materials and finesse. The serial numbers will be laser etched inside the switch housing and they shall continue from the total of all versions of GP Piccolo to honour the history of this little mod that created back in 2012. This will be the norm with all the upcoming versions of existing mods and atomizers.
Precision machining This is hard to believe it, but the precision machining is better than before, with tolerance of the locking ring to be 0,01-0,02 mm, way below the calibration standards, for smooth operation. The threading of the moving parts is even smoother than before. It is a small gem!
Materials EU certified 316 SS is not what most machinists are happy to work with, due to its hardness, but when you polish it, especially in brushed finish, its beauty and surface structure is radically distinctive and without equal in mods made from lower grades.
Conductivity We estimate at least 20% increase in conductivity in comparison with the previous version of GP Piccolo due to the redesigned switch.
GP HERON -SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS
By Sedge
About Japanese cotton
If you have a cotton pad, notice the direction the fibers run and cut a strip parallel with the fibers. The size of the strip depends on the size of the coil diameter.
Now some folk will peel away the thin top and bottom layer of the pad first before cutting.
After you get your strip, twist the end and feed it through the coil.
Here I've peeled the woven outer layers of a Shiseido pad. They tend to be dense and less pliable. The thicker center is more fluffy.
The bottom two are the outer layers.
Here is a strip cut, and then twisted.
Now feed through coil and trim, then juice it up and vape.
By Sedge
About Japanese cotton
If you have a cotton pad, notice the direction the fibers run and cut a strip parallel with the fibers. The size of the strip depends on the size of the coil diameter.
Now some folk will peel away the thin top and bottom layer of the pad first before cutting.
After you get your strip, twist the end and feed it through the coil.
Here I've peeled the woven outer layers of a Shiseido pad. They tend to be dense and less pliable. The thicker center is more fluffy.
The bottom two are the outer layers.
Here is a strip cut, and then twisted.
Now feed through coil and trim, then juice it up and vape.
GP Series January Update
The Vapourday will be on the coming Friday with releases of GP PAPS X v1.5, GP X, GP PAPS v3, GP Piccolo v4, GP Spheroid v3, GP SnP v2.
Piccolo v4: We just now finished the fine tuning of the switch's travel, hence the delay.
We've designed a button with a draw of 0,30 mm - 0,35 mm, offering an almost touch sense.
The static negative post is our new innovation and an evolution of the previous switch, because it ensures (along with the GPin) a constant pressure to the battery, independently of the button's position.
Another feature of the negative post is its bottom: it is hollow with a concave area similar to the convex surface of the button's screw to increase the contact surface from 7 sq. mm to 12 sq. mm, and this is improving the conductivity 20% more than the previous version.
The air vents are designed inside the switch to avoid any external holes. The overall length of the Piccolo v4 is 1 mm shorter from the previous versions.
The price of the GP Piccolo v4 is reduced due to changes in the design after 8 months of brainstorming and prototyping, as I have mentioned before and it will come at €79. Optional parts like silver plated GPin and silver plated negative post and screw will cost €15 as upgrade during the order or €27 afterwards as spare parts.
We'll have available GP Piccolo v4 and GP Spheroid v3 in bead blasted finish offered as combo for €165 and GP Piccolo v4 and GP Spheroid v3 combo in brushed finish for €159. The silver plated parts for the Piccolo will be optional too.
The quality of the materials is as before, we used EU certified 316 SS and the machining has an even better precision machining with 0,01 mm tolerance in certain parts. The locking ring locks on 180º-270º turn instead of the initial 90º for convenience and safety reasons due to its tiny size. But after further experimentation we reduced it to 90º-120º. It can be locked with our pinky easily. The insulators of the GPin and negative post are held via O-rings, no room for threads in 16 mm. The air channels of the top cap are redesigned to look minimalistic from a side view and they have deep concave grooves for effectiveness.
More photos and updates regarding the product's description and its internals will follow the next days along with the exact time of the Vapourday.
The Vapourday will be on the coming Friday with releases of GP PAPS X v1.5, GP X, GP PAPS v3, GP Piccolo v4, GP Spheroid v3, GP SnP v2.
Piccolo v4: We just now finished the fine tuning of the switch's travel, hence the delay.
We've designed a button with a draw of 0,30 mm - 0,35 mm, offering an almost touch sense.
The static negative post is our new innovation and an evolution of the previous switch, because it ensures (along with the GPin) a constant pressure to the battery, independently of the button's position.
Another feature of the negative post is its bottom: it is hollow with a concave area similar to the convex surface of the button's screw to increase the contact surface from 7 sq. mm to 12 sq. mm, and this is improving the conductivity 20% more than the previous version.
The air vents are designed inside the switch to avoid any external holes. The overall length of the Piccolo v4 is 1 mm shorter from the previous versions.
The price of the GP Piccolo v4 is reduced due to changes in the design after 8 months of brainstorming and prototyping, as I have mentioned before and it will come at €79. Optional parts like silver plated GPin and silver plated negative post and screw will cost €15 as upgrade during the order or €27 afterwards as spare parts.
We'll have available GP Piccolo v4 and GP Spheroid v3 in bead blasted finish offered as combo for €165 and GP Piccolo v4 and GP Spheroid v3 combo in brushed finish for €159. The silver plated parts for the Piccolo will be optional too.
The quality of the materials is as before, we used EU certified 316 SS and the machining has an even better precision machining with 0,01 mm tolerance in certain parts. The locking ring locks on 180º-270º turn instead of the initial 90º for convenience and safety reasons due to its tiny size. But after further experimentation we reduced it to 90º-120º. It can be locked with our pinky easily. The insulators of the GPin and negative post are held via O-rings, no room for threads in 16 mm. The air channels of the top cap are redesigned to look minimalistic from a side view and they have deep concave grooves for effectiveness.
More photos and updates regarding the product's description and its internals will follow the next days along with the exact time of the Vapourday.
GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS
GP Spheroid cotton builds
By Yankeebobo
Any kind of "cotton" will likely twist as you assemble the spheroid tube to the base. SnC yarn and silica less so but still may. So what I do is generally thread the coil with the slightly rolled Kgd and then cut it even with the edges. Curl it slightly and that reaches perfectly for my taste. If you were to look down on my build, the "roll" of kgd length would not pass the edge. So the length is ~15-16mm long. The same as the diameter of the spheroid. You can go 17. As you go longer, the fluff will grab the ends and twist them on themselves which will impede the air chamber. It will also impede the wicking because the wick would almost meet at the middle under the cone.
Ok. Here is an older build. Similar to what I use and actually still do sometimes. In this case, it is probably more ~18-19mm long through the coil. But I push one end down to the base and lift the other up. Up wicks from fluff and bottom picks up any excess.
Here is a setup with a 1/16 jig (nail will do) it happens to be 8ish wraps of 28g. It works well on a 22mm mod and up. (paps and x) but its a bit much for the piccolo
And one last one with twisted wire. This wick "may" be slightly on the long side.
What I have not factored in is in the new spheroid, you may be able to avoid the twist by gently lifting the upper bell part some, assembling the tube and base, and once the wick is in place, push the bell down into place. The upper is held by oring instead of screwed. I will be testing this in the coming days or weeks.
GP Spheroid cotton builds
By Yankeebobo
Any kind of "cotton" will likely twist as you assemble the spheroid tube to the base. SnC yarn and silica less so but still may. So what I do is generally thread the coil with the slightly rolled Kgd and then cut it even with the edges. Curl it slightly and that reaches perfectly for my taste. If you were to look down on my build, the "roll" of kgd length would not pass the edge. So the length is ~15-16mm long. The same as the diameter of the spheroid. You can go 17. As you go longer, the fluff will grab the ends and twist them on themselves which will impede the air chamber. It will also impede the wicking because the wick would almost meet at the middle under the cone.
Ok. Here is an older build. Similar to what I use and actually still do sometimes. In this case, it is probably more ~18-19mm long through the coil. But I push one end down to the base and lift the other up. Up wicks from fluff and bottom picks up any excess.
Here is a setup with a 1/16 jig (nail will do) it happens to be 8ish wraps of 28g. It works well on a 22mm mod and up. (paps and x) but its a bit much for the piccolo
And one last one with twisted wire. This wick "may" be slightly on the long side.
What I have not factored in is in the new spheroid, you may be able to avoid the twist by gently lifting the upper bell part some, assembling the tube and base, and once the wick is in place, push the bell down into place. The upper is held by oring instead of screwed. I will be testing this in the coming days or weeks.
GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS
GP Spheroid mesh build
By Qorax
Spheroid: SS Mesh Wick : PICTORIAL√
Spheroid ~ Reinvented with SS Mesh 
Step-1: Sizing the Mesh
I used 400g Mesh and cut it to a 40x25 mm piece. Using the length of the weave I folded one end of it neatly, creased it and then used a needle at the other end to give it a feel of the roll.
Step-2: Tight but Hollow Roll
Using the needle as its core I rolled the mesh into a tight coil with a dia of 1.96 mm. Note that this wick needs to be inserted in a 2 mm ID Coil.
The Microcoil was made of 28g Kanthal wrapped over a 2.1 mm Allen Key.
Step-3: Check the Coil and Wick
Then placed the wick inside the microcoil and moved it along its length to check for its breathing space. Note that the wick must not be too tight or loose inside, else it will either be throttled or wont make surface contact. Under both circumstances there will be poor wicking leading to dry-hits. Now, using a suitable tool (a pen in this case) I gradually gave one end of the SS wick a smooth bend. This is needed since that bend will rest against the filler material and assist in juice feed.
Step-4: Torching the SS Wick
Until now the SS Mesh was untreated. Herein I grabbed one end of the wick and torched it. Note that I torched only half its length, the area which would make contact with the coil. The other half remain untreated since thats the portion which will touch the filler material and torching it wouldnt make any difference. In fact I think keeping that area untreated actually helps with a smoother flow of juice.
Step-5: Inserting the Treated SS Wick
At this moment I reinserted the needle into the treated end and rolled it once more to weed out any inconsistencies that might have occurred during the previous processes. Then using the needle as a guide fed the wick into the microcoil.
Step-6: Pulsing the setup
As with any SS mesh setup we need to pulse the wick before its use. This ensures two things, (1)removes hot spots, and (2)makes the entire SS wick non-conductive to negate shorts anywhere which is beyond the coiled area. Upon the pulsing process the end resultant wick & coil should glow evenly like this:
Step-7: Trimming the Wick & juicing it up
Keeping the untreated end at approximately 15 mm in length I cut-off the other end of the wick, a tad shorter than the OD of the Spheroids base. Next, using the tool again (pen in my case) I reinforced the bend at the untreated end into a 'snake head' shape. Note that all along the wicks length it still remains hollow in its core with a near smooth round exterior. Now is the time to juice it up and check its vapour production.
Step-8: Vapor Check
Step-9: Fill-up and Assembling the Tank
Ensure to keep the bent portion of the wick tail along the periphery of the tank - and away from the Chimney Tube. Then screw-in the tank tube into the Spheroid's base.
Step-10: The Vape Experience!
THOUGHTS: Built it early in the morning today and vaped it all thru the day. The setup has been wicking perfectly, no dry-hits or gurgles (aka over-wicking or under-wicking). The GP Spheroid is anyway designed to be one of the most flavourful attys whatever the setup be ~ but with this SS Mesh Wick I find it has hit the epitome of flavour! It has been my most flavourful day and the taste is stupefyingly fantastic!
BOTTOMLINE: Do you need to setup the Spheroid with a SS Mesh Wick? -NO-. The GP Spheroid is great in its usual builds as well, viz. the regular coils with Silica &/or a Microcoil with Cotton. Both of them offer superior vape experience. And a SS Mesh Build is not an easy task by any means. It takes additional efforts and time. Besides, it might just not be for a novice ~ while the other builds are. Which are easy. BUT if you can do it, love tinkering and want another shot at rebuilding this amazing atty ~ go for it! I have been using Spheroids for over a year now ~ and this SS Mesh Build is my most flavourful one!
GP Spheroid mesh build
By Qorax
Spheroid: SS Mesh Wick : PICTORIAL√
Spheroid ~ Reinvented with SS Mesh 
Step-1: Sizing the Mesh
I used 400g Mesh and cut it to a 40x25 mm piece. Using the length of the weave I folded one end of it neatly, creased it and then used a needle at the other end to give it a feel of the roll.
Step-2: Tight but Hollow Roll
Using the needle as its core I rolled the mesh into a tight coil with a dia of 1.96 mm. Note that this wick needs to be inserted in a 2 mm ID Coil.
The Microcoil was made of 28g Kanthal wrapped over a 2.1 mm Allen Key.
Step-3: Check the Coil and Wick
Then placed the wick inside the microcoil and moved it along its length to check for its breathing space. Note that the wick must not be too tight or loose inside, else it will either be throttled or wont make surface contact. Under both circumstances there will be poor wicking leading to dry-hits. Now, using a suitable tool (a pen in this case) I gradually gave one end of the SS wick a smooth bend. This is needed since that bend will rest against the filler material and assist in juice feed.
Step-4: Torching the SS Wick
Until now the SS Mesh was untreated. Herein I grabbed one end of the wick and torched it. Note that I torched only half its length, the area which would make contact with the coil. The other half remain untreated since thats the portion which will touch the filler material and torching it wouldnt make any difference. In fact I think keeping that area untreated actually helps with a smoother flow of juice.
Step-5: Inserting the Treated SS Wick
At this moment I reinserted the needle into the treated end and rolled it once more to weed out any inconsistencies that might have occurred during the previous processes. Then using the needle as a guide fed the wick into the microcoil.
Step-6: Pulsing the setup
As with any SS mesh setup we need to pulse the wick before its use. This ensures two things, (1)removes hot spots, and (2)makes the entire SS wick non-conductive to negate shorts anywhere which is beyond the coiled area. Upon the pulsing process the end resultant wick & coil should glow evenly like this:
Step-7: Trimming the Wick & juicing it up
Keeping the untreated end at approximately 15 mm in length I cut-off the other end of the wick, a tad shorter than the OD of the Spheroids base. Next, using the tool again (pen in my case) I reinforced the bend at the untreated end into a 'snake head' shape. Note that all along the wicks length it still remains hollow in its core with a near smooth round exterior. Now is the time to juice it up and check its vapour production.
Step-8: Vapor Check
Step-9: Fill-up and Assembling the Tank
Ensure to keep the bent portion of the wick tail along the periphery of the tank - and away from the Chimney Tube. Then screw-in the tank tube into the Spheroid's base.
Step-10: The Vape Experience!
THOUGHTS: Built it early in the morning today and vaped it all thru the day. The setup has been wicking perfectly, no dry-hits or gurgles (aka over-wicking or under-wicking). The GP Spheroid is anyway designed to be one of the most flavourful attys whatever the setup be ~ but with this SS Mesh Wick I find it has hit the epitome of flavour! It has been my most flavourful day and the taste is stupefyingly fantastic!
BOTTOMLINE: Do you need to setup the Spheroid with a SS Mesh Wick? -NO-. The GP Spheroid is great in its usual builds as well, viz. the regular coils with Silica &/or a Microcoil with Cotton. Both of them offer superior vape experience. And a SS Mesh Build is not an easy task by any means. It takes additional efforts and time. Besides, it might just not be for a novice ~ while the other builds are. Which are easy. BUT if you can do it, love tinkering and want another shot at rebuilding this amazing atty ~ go for it! I have been using Spheroids for over a year now ~ and this SS Mesh Build is my most flavourful one!
Piccoloid Review Part-1: GP Piccolo V4
Piccoloid Review Part-2: GP Spheroid V3
Piccoloid Review Part-2: GP Spheroid V3
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