No my friend, there isn't any left. You can achieve almost the same result with the AFR inserts without any extra cost.
GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3
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No my friend, there isn't any left. You can achieve almost the same result with the AFR inserts without any extra cost.
Thanks for the explanation Perseas. I see that your US reseller has them for sale, but given your suggestion, the cost is more than I'm willing to part with. You can disregard the message that I included with my order, it's good as is.
Who here has bought the reduced cap? And also compared to single coil use after inserting reducers ? Does anyone have a photo of the reducer cap next to the standard ? A view inside? I cant seem to find a view of it besides the standard exterior shot (again super slow hotel wifi prevents massive searches or browsing)
Id appreciate the help. I'm trying to decide if I should order the reducer cap while it is available even though my dripper wont be here yet.
Vapor day today. Exciting!!
Id appreciate the help. I'm trying to decide if I should order the reducer cap while it is available even though my dripper wont be here yet.
Vapor day today. Exciting!!
Its sold out and not produced further
The only place i know to
Get it is
GP Dripper Reducer Cap
There may be European vendors with jt if you're not in the usa
Even though i don't have the dripper yet the fact it is nit made and i am an always mtl vaper pushed me into Ordering. Despite the added cost. I want the best dripper experience possible and almost always build single coils. Lets see if i can get he gp dripper soon hopefully. To go with the cap
Its very possible they're not making it anymore because the drop in air flow reducers make it very similar. But i have to think the cap which reduced to one coil and makes a smaller chamber is going to push better flavor and density for single coil mtl builds. Though likely most people wont want to pay half as much again for the slight increase.
I love gp. And i am a mtl vaper who chases flavor. So i bought the cap likely to offer the best experience. Worst case scenario i don't need or like it and gp got my small Purchase price. I owe them Much more than the price of the added cap for their kindness and support. . I just wish i could have bought it direct with the dripper so all the money went to them but I suppose they wont mind their reseller making money as it helps sell kore ultimately to have a reseller !
So
If you're a brand loyalist or case the absolute best flavor and density for single coil . I have to imagine this cap offers it. Though it may he a very small percentage better given the 40-50% of the dripper price.
Maybe they'll sell the base only sometime too. Then you can have the extra cap make a second dripper.
Just some thoughts and info.
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Sorry, it's difficult to take a clear photo, but the 'normal' cap is on the left, reducer on the right. The reducer is the same size, but has only one air hole. Internally, opposite the air hole, the ultem is not completely cut away, so there is a block of ultem that sits over the deck's second airhole. In the first picture, this 'block' is on the bottom. In the second, it is on the right.
Sorry about the quality of the second pic - trying to hold the phone in one hand and the dripper in the other with the light picking up the ultem block meant focusing went out the window
Just a little confused does the dripper come with a drip tip or rather does it come with both drip tips or no drip tips and has to be ordered separately and the other thing I don't see is the diameter of the internal bore for both drip tips
Cheers
Thanks very much. So the reduction in cap size is where the "block" sits on the one side. It would have had considerably more impact i think had the ultem block started just on the other side of the posts rather than being so far out - or ak i seeing it wrong ? If its not starting just oast the posts then had it they would have almost halved the chamber size. Here it looks to be reduced by 10-15% so i can see why there may not be that much impact.
What is your thought on the reducer cap vs just closing one airflow with the standard cap? I fear i thought the design was different and would have more impact.
Do you see a difference and if so what would it be. Flavor. Density ? That small of a reduction in volume seems unlikely to go much however I've seen small changes make big differences. If the base was available separately like for the heron etc it would be worth playing for $10-20 increase vs buying one assembled dripper but half the price is an awful lot for what seems such a minor change.
Thanks for the great pics showing the difference. As Perseus said its not much.unless im
Seeing it wrong ajd it does start just oast the posts ?
@perseus I'm
Still holding hope you make a dripper / bf thats small like 16-19mm for single coil flavor chasing.
@qorax i am supposing this Vapes a lot like the charm?
A LONG POST ABOUt AIR FLOW REDUCERS
i purchased some 304ss tubing with outer diameter 3mm inner diameter 2mm. To cut to size to accomplish the same task as the air reducers GP thoughtfully includes. I have been using ptfe previously . In case anyone didn't grasp or missed my numerous posts before-. This is what several of us have been doing on the heron v2 to improve flavor and density. As well as on non GP products.
Ive asked @Perseus if they plan On making the peak part something for sale separately. The way the reducers work they don't need to run down the entire air inlet. Once you pass about 3mm -5mm any more length is basically superfluous. As such a one size fits all piece could be crafted. I hope if the next heron has an air outlet greater than 2mm a reducer will be included for that. It would have been a good addition to the v2.
Reducing air flow like this from 3 to 2mm on the heron has an amazing impact on flavor and even more on density. Reducing to 1.5mm i find is too far. Though we are testing boring 1.5 out to 1.8 than 2mm. Had I any idea where to go to have a production run of inserts made i would have done it a couple years ago. So it's great to see a company like gp with such high standards in material and workmanship make this part. Now we just need a universal one at a reasonable price for packs of 2
For heron v2 owners with the dripper who have never tried a reducer and vape mtl try this. Use one of the reducers in the air hole below the heron coil. Elevate your coil a touch more to offset the lip. See what you think of the improved vape.
I would prefer gp release a universal peak or maybe preferably SS insert as their design is easier to install and remove and everything they make is top notch. Ive been banging on about reducer in the heron for ages now. So I'm very very pleased to see GP offer this no. @perseus nobody makes a high quality universal insert - or if they do I've never seen it. I was literally going to start doing it until my conditions worsened. Sure PTFE is very similar toPeak and cheap to cut another 5mm length off But i think there would be those of us who leave reducers always in looking for a stainless option or more professional Solution.
For me the bottom line is for MTL vaping air flow above 2mm degrades the experience. Time and time again we see this with multiple manufacturers and devices and with the masses abandoning ship for Lung hitting we mtl gapers are going to need reducers in everything. Then the designers need tk avoid non circular holes unless matching peak or stainless plugs are also crafted. Look at the list of devices from all over. Virtually no mtl devices are coming. Just "universal" with big air flow and the position its fine once air flow is closed down WITH AN EXTERNAL AFC - which is patently false especially when using mechanical mods.
So i say the need is there for someone to step up and offer high quality insert sets. I personally would like to see stainless steel inserts. To he sure dry burning doesn't cause issues.
@perseus what made you decide on PEAK rather than SS? while it has a high melt point its not high enough to avoid damage from a Clapton coil 1 mm away being dry burned to form is it ? My experience with another product which had a peak chamber ended in disaster but maybe their peak was different ir not as good. Whats the melt
Point of the material you use ? Would you consider for an accessory stainless inserts? Surely your expertise with that material and the availability of hollow rods would make it pretty easy, if a bit fiddly, to produce.
Cheers
Sorry, it's difficult to take a clear photo, but the 'normal' cap is on the left, reducer on the right. The reducer is the same size, but has only one air hole. Internally, opposite the air hole, the ultem is not completely cut away, so there is a block of ultem that sits over the deck's second airhole. In the first picture, this 'block' is on the bottom. In the second, it is on the right.
Sorry about the quality of the second pic - trying to hold the phone in one hand and the dripper in the other with the light picking up the ultem block meant focusing went out the window
Thanks very much. So the reduction in cap size is where the "block" sits on the one side. It would have had considerably more impact i think had the ultem block started just on the other side of the posts rather than being so far out - or ak i seeing it wrong ? If its not starting just oast the posts then had it they would have almost halved the chamber size. Here it looks to be reduced by 10-15% so i can see why there may not be that much impact.
What is your thought on the reducer cap vs just closing one airflow with the standard cap? I fear i thought the design was different and would have more impact.
Do you see a difference and if so what would it be. Flavor. Density ? That small of a reduction in volume seems unlikely to go much however I've seen small changes make big differences. If the base was available separately like for the heron etc it would be worth playing for $10-20 increase vs buying one assembled dripper but half the price is an awful lot for what seems such a minor change.
Thanks for the great pics showing the difference. As Perseus said its not much.unless im
Seeing it wrong ajd it does start just oast the posts ?
@perseus I'm
Still holding hope you make a dripper / bf thats small like 16-19mm for single coil flavor chasing.
@qorax i am supposing this Vapes a lot like the charm?
A LONG POST ABOUt AIR FLOW REDUCERS
i purchased some 304ss tubing with outer diameter 3mm inner diameter 2mm. To cut to size to accomplish the same task as the air reducers GP thoughtfully includes. I have been using ptfe previously . In case anyone didn't grasp or missed my numerous posts before-. This is what several of us have been doing on the heron v2 to improve flavor and density. As well as on non GP products.
Ive asked @Perseus if they plan On making the peak part something for sale separately. The way the reducers work they don't need to run down the entire air inlet. Once you pass about 3mm -5mm any more length is basically superfluous. As such a one size fits all piece could be crafted. I hope if the next heron has an air outlet greater than 2mm a reducer will be included for that. It would have been a good addition to the v2.
Reducing air flow like this from 3 to 2mm on the heron has an amazing impact on flavor and even more on density. Reducing to 1.5mm i find is too far. Though we are testing boring 1.5 out to 1.8 than 2mm. Had I any idea where to go to have a production run of inserts made i would have done it a couple years ago. So it's great to see a company like gp with such high standards in material and workmanship make this part. Now we just need a universal one at a reasonable price for packs of 2
For heron v2 owners with the dripper who have never tried a reducer and vape mtl try this. Use one of the reducers in the air hole below the heron coil. Elevate your coil a touch more to offset the lip. See what you think of the improved vape.
I would prefer gp release a universal peak or maybe preferably SS insert as their design is easier to install and remove and everything they make is top notch. Ive been banging on about reducer in the heron for ages now. So I'm very very pleased to see GP offer this no. @perseus nobody makes a high quality universal insert - or if they do I've never seen it. I was literally going to start doing it until my conditions worsened. Sure PTFE is very similar toPeak and cheap to cut another 5mm length off But i think there would be those of us who leave reducers always in looking for a stainless option or more professional Solution.
For me the bottom line is for MTL vaping air flow above 2mm degrades the experience. Time and time again we see this with multiple manufacturers and devices and with the masses abandoning ship for Lung hitting we mtl gapers are going to need reducers in everything. Then the designers need tk avoid non circular holes unless matching peak or stainless plugs are also crafted. Look at the list of devices from all over. Virtually no mtl devices are coming. Just "universal" with big air flow and the position its fine once air flow is closed down WITH AN EXTERNAL AFC - which is patently false especially when using mechanical mods.
So i say the need is there for someone to step up and offer high quality insert sets. I personally would like to see stainless steel inserts. To he sure dry burning doesn't cause issues.
@perseus what made you decide on PEAK rather than SS? while it has a high melt point its not high enough to avoid damage from a Clapton coil 1 mm away being dry burned to form is it ? My experience with another product which had a peak chamber ended in disaster but maybe their peak was different ir not as good. Whats the melt
Point of the material you use ? Would you consider for an accessory stainless inserts? Surely your expertise with that material and the availability of hollow rods would make it pretty easy, if a bit fiddly, to produce.
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Some more bad cheap phone pics. If I wait till I get the camera out, it would be days I've only used the reducer cap with AF wide open, which means a single 3.5mm dia airhole. I've been loving it, but for some reason I run most of my squonkers a lot airier than I do tanks.
In fiddling around to take pics I've popped the coil, so I'll recoil and come back with a comparison running a single coil with the peek reducer instead of the reducer cap. In the mean time ...
1. Looking from the base of the reducer cap towards the drip tip, with the AFR 'block' on the right. The block can't really be any larger without blocking the drip tip.
2. The integrated drip tip is what I would call wide bore - 13mm OD, ~8.6 ID; but the internal diameter reduces to around 5mm further down for spit-back control (red arrow below). Both the standard cap and the reducer cap have the chamber slightly reduced by the slightly thicker delrin all the way round (green arrow).
3. Looking down into the integrated drip tip where you may, or may not, be able to see the reduced diameter for spit-back control.
4. The ID of the integrated drip tip allows a standard '510' drip tip to be used. Here's the GP delrin tip added (the GP addition tip is ~11.5mm OK and ~4.8mm ID):
5. And here's a random other drip tip:
I've only used the reducer cap with AF wide open, which means a single 3.5mm dia airhole. I've been loving it, but for some reason I run most of my squonkers a lot airier than I do tanks. In fiddling around to take pics I've popped the coil, so I'll recoil and come back with a comparison running a single coil with the peek reducer instead of the reducer cap. In the mean time ...
1. Looking from the base of the reducer cap towards the drip tip, with the AFR 'block' on the right. The block can't really be any larger without blocking the drip tip.
2. The integrated drip tip is what I would call wide bore - 13mm OD, ~8.6 ID; but the internal diameter reduces to around 5mm further down for spit-back control (red arrow below). Both the standard cap and the reducer cap have the chamber slightly reduced by the slightly thicker delrin all the way round (green arrow).
3. Looking down into the integrated drip tip where you may, or may not, be able to see the reduced diameter for spit-back control.
4. The ID of the integrated drip tip allows a standard '510' drip tip to be used. Here's the GP delrin tip added (the GP addition tip is ~11.5mm OK and ~4.8mm ID):
5. And here's a random other drip tip:
Ok, I've now inserted both peek AFRs (hint: if you plan on using the AFRs, insert them before attaching the coil 
).
Single SS coil, 2.5mm ID, around 0.9 ohm when cold, native wicks cotton.
After vaping myself into a nic stupour, can I tell the difference between using the reducer cap and the standard cap? Not really. But then, my taste buds are totally shot after 5 decades of smoking so I'm really not the person to judge. The subtleties of flavour have always escaped me.
If you're after a really tight draw with a single coil, use the standard cap with the peek AFRs and turn the AFC so the single air hole is visually just closed. Air still enters in the gap between the o-rings and gives a really nice vape.
I'm keeping the peek AFRs in place, but returning to the reducer cap with the single AFC wide open. As I mentioned, when squonking I like a much airier vape.
I'm never going to use dual coils with both holes wide open, but I imagine two 3.5mm dia air holes would give a lot of air, making this a dripper for everyone
).Single SS coil, 2.5mm ID, around 0.9 ohm when cold, native wicks cotton.
After vaping myself into a nic stupour, can I tell the difference between using the reducer cap and the standard cap? Not really. But then, my taste buds are totally shot after 5 decades of smoking so I'm really not the person to judge. The subtleties of flavour have always escaped me.
If you're after a really tight draw with a single coil, use the standard cap with the peek AFRs and turn the AFC so the single air hole is visually just closed. Air still enters in the gap between the o-rings and gives a really nice vape.
I'm keeping the peek AFRs in place, but returning to the reducer cap with the single AFC wide open. As I mentioned, when squonking I like a much airier vape.
I'm never going to use dual coils with both holes wide open, but I imagine two 3.5mm dia air holes would give a lot of air, making this a dripper for everyone
Thank you very much for the suggestions! We also observed the wide bores on the majority of atties today to be the norm. We haven't produced a fit to all accessory and we can't do it, because everyone has his own specs. For example we cannot know a priori the depth we can go with an insert, how much space is available beneath the deck. A PEEK insert can grasp better the edges of a hole than a SS one, but the hole has to be certain, any deviation in tenths of millimetre matters and it can render the solution ineffective. The 20x1 threading is often uncalibrated, the 510 connection which is supposed to be standard, tends to differ in length, among the manufacturers. Common metric standards known for over 100 years are not followed and even the terminology gets irrelevant. The 510 is M7x0.5 mm, but we see the drip tip hole (8,65 mm) to be called 510 drip tip!
Our PEEK's melting point is around 340 °C (644 °F). I would be more worried of what happens in the chemistry of the liquid, when the wire is overheated than everything else. We also have designed SS AFR, but we decided to use PEEK in this case. If you feel your coil may affect the AFR, you need seconds to remove it, before you dry burn the coil, without the need to undo your build. A chamber made of PEEK is another story though. We indeed sell the AFR separately and maybe in the future, we make a few for Heron v2.
Ok, I've now inserted both peek AFRs (hint: if you plan on using the AFRs, insert them before attaching the coil
Single SS coil, 2.5mm ID, around 0.9 ohm when cold, native wicks cotton.
After vaping myself into a nic stupour, can I tell the difference between using the reducer cap and the standard cap? Not really. But then, my taste buds are totally shot after 5 decades of smoking so I'm really not the person to judge. The subtleties of flavour have always escaped me.
If you're after a really tight draw with a single coil, use the standard cap with the peek AFRs and turn the AFC so the single air hole is visually just closed. Air still enters in the gap between the o-rings and gives a really nice vape.
I'm keeping the peek AFRs in place, but returning to the reducer cap with the single AFC wide open. As I mentioned, when squonking I like a much airier vape.
I'm never going to use dual coils with both holes wide open, but I imagine two 3.5mm dia air holes would give a lot of air, making this a dripper for everyone
Thank you so much for all the photos and sharing your experience with the GP Dripper!
The AFR can be inserted or removed before and after attaching the coils, because their depth is too shallow to be a problem. You may need tweezers to do it afterwards though. You explained exactly what is happening with the AFR, when you close the air and this is the reason we don't produce the reducers anymore; the flavour difference is negligible. It would be more profitable to sell many extra parts, but we act in terms of efficiency, less is more
Your two posts are a great "travelogue" through the new dripper.Ok, I've now inserted both peek AFRs (hint: if you plan on using the AFRs, insert them before attaching the coil
Single SS coil, 2.5mm ID, around 0.9 ohm when cold, native wicks cotton.
After vaping myself into a nic stupour, can I tell the difference between using the reducer cap and the standard cap? Not really. But then, my taste buds are totally shot after 5 decades of smoking so I'm really not the person to judge. The subtleties of flavour have always escaped me.
If you're after a really tight draw with a single coil, use the standard cap with the peek AFRs and turn the AFC so the single air hole is visually just closed. Air still enters in the gap between the o-rings and gives a really nice vape.
I'm keeping the peek AFRs in place, but returning to the reducer cap with the single AFC wide open. As I mentioned, when squonking I like a much airier vape.
I'm never going to use dual coils with both holes wide open, but I imagine two 3.5mm dia air holes would give a lot of air, making this a dripper for everyone
Thanks for your work.
What size are the post screws and what size Allen do they take ?
I recently picked this up as a space saver and to get away from slippery crappy tony allen wrenches and it works very well and is inexpensive. Along with taking almost no space in a kit. Anything under 1.5 can be turned without detriment by small screwdrivers. So it should cover anything you need. They have these with various standards available. Not just hex. Id you need something more. (Don't get the regular screwdriver one theres a better 4 in one screwdriver which costs less )
BW[emoji768] 4 in 1 RC Helicopter Vehicle Car Hex Driver Screw Hexagon Head Screw Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T63R8J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ILwbyb1WRBGDH
To put the size in proportion with all bits stowed in the handle
That said 304-316 headless screws in Phillips or standard can be purchased in any size if we have the info - @perseus did you publish the screw specs and i missed it , sorry if so.
Of course we know the gp screws are the highest quality. Id be researching heavily before buying from ebay. China. Amazon. Then id see id they were magnetic and sacrifice a few to rust testing all before using them to vape
Id love other tips on deducing true 304 and higher stainless steel. Tips that don't include scratching / scoring or acid baths.
I recently picked this up as a space saver and to get away from slippery crappy tony allen wrenches and it works very well and is inexpensive. Along with taking almost no space in a kit. Anything under 1.5 can be turned without detriment by small screwdrivers. So it should cover anything you need. They have these with various standards available. Not just hex. Id you need something more. (Don't get the regular screwdriver one theres a better 4 in one screwdriver which costs less )
BW[emoji768] 4 in 1 RC Helicopter Vehicle Car Hex Driver Screw Hexagon Head Screw Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T63R8J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ILwbyb1WRBGDH
To put the size in proportion with all bits stowed in the handle
That said 304-316 headless screws in Phillips or standard can be purchased in any size if we have the info - @perseus did you publish the screw specs and i missed it , sorry if so.
Of course we know the gp screws are the highest quality. Id be researching heavily before buying from ebay. China. Amazon. Then id see id they were magnetic and sacrifice a few to rust testing all before using them to vape
Id love other tips on deducing true 304 and higher stainless steel. Tips that don't include scratching / scoring or acid baths.
My GP Dripper arrived today! I'm using it with the single coil reducer cap - SS 0.87 ohm when cold. So far I'm not using the peek air flow reducer inserts, since the single coil top cap cuts off one of the air holes anyway. It's only been about 30 minutes, so there's lots more I could experiment with and it's a bit early for an in-depth analysis
Is that a brass cc mod? I thought he didn't make those? Or he used to and doesn't anymore?
Yes, it's a brass CC. I don't think he's made any more brass since using up his stock and diversifying into SS and Ti.
Just pulled the trigger for the piccoloid. I just hope I get in time for my birthday[emoji1]
Sent from mTalk
Sent from mTalk
If it wasn't with custom finish, it would be in your hands on 27-28 of October. But we a few days more for the custom finish and I also sent you an email with further clarifications. Thank you!
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