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I was tinkering with it again, and I guess the hot spot at the top didn't go away as much as I thought. I'll have to tinker some more.
Yep, it is the one that came with it. I also picked up some spare mesh, so I will try some of that.
I didn't wash mine. I will the second time around, though.
Thanks for the tips, everyone!
They are allegedly the same size. I just measured the stock AGA-T+ PC tank that came with mine and it is 20mm D x 23mm L.
I must have gone thru 15 wicks from the top wire popping. I finally made one that did not get a hot spot and was working properly when my YJ 2 decided it was working to well developed a problem with center pin. It is just out of warranty, go figure. Well at least my coil and wick are working.
I just got my AGA T2 ... Let the adventure begin...I just ordered some 500 ss mesh. I noticed that most are using 400 ss mesh...guess im still ok. Im going to try to form my wick with a little bend towards the center post and get a magnifing glass because these old eyes are straining.
400 and 500 mesh are very similar- perhaps more similar to each other than other sizes of mesh are when compared, because they are made of the same-diameter steel thread. The only difference is the size and number of capillary holes. I use 400 twill-weave, which is somewhere in-between 400 straight weave and 500.
400 mesh will wick 100% VG, 500 mesh will wick 70/30 PG/VG fine.
This is what I did to avoid having to bend my wick on the AGA-T+:
When you wrap the positive end around the post and twist it (over/under/over/under) back towards the wick, then cut it off, it will avoid the hot spot.
i really dont like making silica and coil wicks and thought i would try the genesis style rebuildables. i'm looking at the aga-t2 as my option. is there a general concensus on which genesis clone is the better buy in the $30 price range? also, i've been reading up on ss mesh and it looks like the 500 ss mesh wicks fastest. any thoughts on that also appreciated.
The AGA T Plus is new on the market, but the company that manufactures them (Youde Tech) has a history of making high-quality devices out of better materials than what most of the rest of the Chinese use. Factor in the pop-top cap, ease of setup, glass tank, etc., and it's probably the only chinese device I would put my full support behind.
Also, just a bit of semantics here... but Youde is one of the only (possibly the only) large asian manufacturers of genesis devices that doesn't blatantly copy a single device (to the last detail) when designing their products- so the AGA is as much a clone as any other genesis device is. That's the other main reason that I support them.
Also, just a bit of semantics here... but Youde is one of the only (possibly the only) large asian manufacturers of genesis devices that doesn't blatantly copy a single device (to the last detail) when designing their products- so the AGA is as much a clone as any other genesis device is. That's the other main reason that I support them.
another question on the aga-t2 - they dont sell with a drip tip but offer specific tips. does this mean a standard 510 drip tips does not fit? best price i found is at Hoosier Vapes for 24.90 and for mesh The Mesh Company. sound about right? thanks for the help.
AGA, AGA-T, AGA-T+ all accept standard 510 drip tips, any you have will fit. The new T+/T2 is available with a pyrex glass tank, o-ring cap that makes air hole alignment a snap, all SS including center post and nuts.
DV has them in stock:
AGA Tiamat PLUS - Rebuildable Atomizer
Picked up an AGA-T+ today and just set it up. My first time doing a SS wick and coil. Took my time (almost an hour) and it worked out pretty good. I had the same issue with the coil between the wick and the positive post being hot that so many newbies to this seem to go through. This is a great thread and really answered most of my questions. Thanks everyone!
I really like the idea of using a small washer on the positive post to reduce the length of that segment of wire and will try that. For tonight, I didn't want to make another coil so what I tried was to bend the wick to shorten the wire. Not straight towards the + post, but at an angle, so the wire got wrapped around the + post a bit. I was surprised how much I could shorten it. The hot spot is still there, but very much reduced. 1.7 ohm 5/4 coil running at 3.7 V very nicely now. Taste is lacking a bit, but it vapes well and I think I'll leave it alone for a couple of tanks and see how it goes.
I really like the idea of using a small washer on the positive post to reduce the length of that segment of wire and will try that. For tonight, I didn't want to make another coil so what I tried was to bend the wick to shorten the wire. Not straight towards the + post, but at an angle, so the wire got wrapped around the + post a bit. I was surprised how much I could shorten it. The hot spot is still there, but very much reduced. 1.7 ohm 5/4 coil running at 3.7 V very nicely now. Taste is lacking a bit, but it vapes well and I think I'll leave it alone for a couple of tanks and see how it goes.
I ordered one today from Discount Vapors and it will be my first RBA. I've watched a couple of videos of Genesis style RBA's but still have much to learn to even start with this thing. I've always believed that the future of juice carrying devices somehow lied with rebuildables, but not being one who particularly likes to tinker, I hesitated purchasing one to play around with.
I spontaneously purchased one today when I saw it. I had heard the previous version was well-liked, and when I saw this model came with a glass tank, I knew it was time to make the move. So many of these become out-of-stock once they become popular, and I didn't want to be left behind being on a long waiting list.
I spontaneously purchased one today when I saw it. I had heard the previous version was well-liked, and when I saw this model came with a glass tank, I knew it was time to make the move. So many of these become out-of-stock once they become popular, and I didn't want to be left behind being on a long waiting list.
Hope you enjoy it Baditude!
Mine has been getting better through the night. But holy vape batman, this thing uses a lot of juice! Or maybe I've just been on it that much
. I've used about 2 ml in the last 4 hours and normally I go through 2 1/2 a day. The hot spot is gone now, the wicking keeps improving and I've learned some of it's tricks. Nice to find a cool new toy!
Mine has been getting better through the night. But holy vape batman, this thing uses a lot of juice! Or maybe I've just been on it that much
. I've used about 2 ml in the last 4 hours and normally I go through 2 1/2 a day. The hot spot is gone now, the wicking keeps improving and I've learned some of it's tricks. Nice to find a cool new toy!
Looking forward to hear what you think of it Bad, I've been tempted to get one also. The recent purchase of ProVari#2, ZAP, and DUD kind of has the vape budget pretty depleted.
Thanks for the encouragement. Any recommended threads or video demos that would be particularly useful for a total newbie to RBA's? You know how I like video demos. I've watched the Provape video with Zen a couple of times now, which was wonderfully explained and well shot. Links are appreciated.
The one Zen did with the ZAP is one of the best that I know of. It does not include any info on oxidizing the SS mesh though. I've seen a few that go into detail about wick prep. When I got the DUD I just used a Bic lighter to oxidize my mesh, seems to have worked ok, been vaping it for almost two weeks now. I gave it a quick once over before I twisted it up, and another quick blast on the top half after winding it up. No quenching, no burning juice on it.
The big thing is to make sure the coils are glowing evenly with no hot spots before you add juice to the tank.
The big thing is to make sure the coils are glowing evenly with no hot spots before you add juice to the tank.
Bad, I watched a few videos on wick rolling and coil wrapping before I bought my RBA. I ended up combining what I felt was the best of them all. I am still using the the very first wick and coil that I made from the materials included with the AGA-T, and haven't yet touched the supplies I bought to go with it. The included SS mesh is not big enough to make a solid wick (and I I want to try that next) so I rolled it around a 1mm rod tightly, and was able to fit it into the 3/32" drill bit wrapped coil I made.
You can find plenty of vids on youtube, but here are the general methods I used:
(Four methods to battle top coil hot spots are "twisted lead", "L kink", "washers on post", and "bend wick to positive post". I will describe twisted lead method).
Coil:
1. 3/32" drill bit was largest that I had that would fit in wick hole, use largest you have available.
2. (Before placing bit in wick hole) Wrap wire around solid shank end using even, snug tension and keeping your loops very close together. (It is easier to spread them than to compress them later to fine tune the fit). If you are right handed wrap counter clockwise.
3. Take the drill bit off, meter the coil, reinsert drill bit (using even tension, add or remove coil to suit.)
4. Place drill bit with coil inside tank (I placed fluted cutting end in tank so I was working with the solid shank end, depends on how long your bit is, but don't let the coil sit on the cutting edge while working).
5. while holding drill bit steady, pull negative lead to opposite side of screw (should be coming off right side of bit to left side of screw) making an "S", wrapping back around next to the drill bit, tighten negative.
6. Take positive end coming off right side of bit, to left side of positive post making "S".
Here is where it takes practice or finness; Tightening the positive nut will pull everything tight. If it is too tight you will have problems getting your bit back out without stressing the wire.
7. Carefully tighten positive and with remaining wire, pass it over and under the lead between the bit and the positive post so it forms a twisted section (see pic in post 67) leading back to coil.
8. With the side of a needle and your thumb nail, make sure coil loops are even.
9. Remove drill bit and check resistance. Dry burn coil at about 8w and look for hot spot/ even glowing. If everything is ok, dry fire the coil 3-4 times to allow it to stiffen up.
Mesh:
1. If you use the included mesh roll a hollow wick, If you want to jump straight to a solid wick use a piece 3.5 - 4 inches long, depending on your actual coil diameter, and how tight you roll it. (It is easier to cut off a 1/4" if you find your wick too fat than it is to deal with your wick not being fat enough)
2. Roll mesh folding the back edge inward before you finish to eliminate possible shorted frays later.
3. Roll/roll/roll tighten tighten tighten.
4. Using my gas stove I do the three burn oxidation then coat with PG or VG and burn three times, then check with meter in various spots to ensure a high resistance.
5. When the wick is able to be placed inside the coil without difficulty (twisting motion helps) and will stay where ever you put it you are good.
Note: THE KEY TO HAVING NO HOT SPOTS ALONG THE LENGTH OF THE COIL IS HAVING THE COILS BARELY TOUCHING THE WICK.
This is why the drill bit method works so well over wrapping it directly on the wick. You are fitting a round rod into a circle, not wompiness into gobllygook (leaving varying spaced gaps all along the coiled wire)
6. If the wick is too big or too tight in the coil it will cause shorts/ hot spots and you will have a hard time removing and putting it back in without dinging your coils.
7. If the wick is too loose it can drop to the bottom of the tank and/or cause shorts due to the coil to wick gap.
8. Put your wick in all the way to the bottom and back it off 1-2mm.
9. Dry burn and check for even heating. A good coil will heat from the center coils first then out to the edge coils.
I have to keep my tank fill screw off to avoid vapor-lock.
If all done properly You will get plumes of vapor, no metallic taste, but very little flavor.
It takes a tank or two for the wick to break in and flavor to come through like a champ.
If you taste metal, you either have a wicking problem or a hot spot.
I did have to learn the "Genny tilt".
You can find plenty of vids on youtube, but here are the general methods I used:
(Four methods to battle top coil hot spots are "twisted lead", "L kink", "washers on post", and "bend wick to positive post". I will describe twisted lead method).
Coil:
1. 3/32" drill bit was largest that I had that would fit in wick hole, use largest you have available.
2. (Before placing bit in wick hole) Wrap wire around solid shank end using even, snug tension and keeping your loops very close together. (It is easier to spread them than to compress them later to fine tune the fit). If you are right handed wrap counter clockwise.
3. Take the drill bit off, meter the coil, reinsert drill bit (using even tension, add or remove coil to suit.)
4. Place drill bit with coil inside tank (I placed fluted cutting end in tank so I was working with the solid shank end, depends on how long your bit is, but don't let the coil sit on the cutting edge while working).
5. while holding drill bit steady, pull negative lead to opposite side of screw (should be coming off right side of bit to left side of screw) making an "S", wrapping back around next to the drill bit, tighten negative.
6. Take positive end coming off right side of bit, to left side of positive post making "S".
Here is where it takes practice or finness; Tightening the positive nut will pull everything tight. If it is too tight you will have problems getting your bit back out without stressing the wire.
7. Carefully tighten positive and with remaining wire, pass it over and under the lead between the bit and the positive post so it forms a twisted section (see pic in post 67) leading back to coil.
8. With the side of a needle and your thumb nail, make sure coil loops are even.
9. Remove drill bit and check resistance. Dry burn coil at about 8w and look for hot spot/ even glowing. If everything is ok, dry fire the coil 3-4 times to allow it to stiffen up.
Mesh:
1. If you use the included mesh roll a hollow wick, If you want to jump straight to a solid wick use a piece 3.5 - 4 inches long, depending on your actual coil diameter, and how tight you roll it. (It is easier to cut off a 1/4" if you find your wick too fat than it is to deal with your wick not being fat enough)
2. Roll mesh folding the back edge inward before you finish to eliminate possible shorted frays later.
3. Roll/roll/roll tighten tighten tighten.
4. Using my gas stove I do the three burn oxidation then coat with PG or VG and burn three times, then check with meter in various spots to ensure a high resistance.
5. When the wick is able to be placed inside the coil without difficulty (twisting motion helps) and will stay where ever you put it you are good.
Note: THE KEY TO HAVING NO HOT SPOTS ALONG THE LENGTH OF THE COIL IS HAVING THE COILS BARELY TOUCHING THE WICK.
This is why the drill bit method works so well over wrapping it directly on the wick. You are fitting a round rod into a circle, not wompiness into gobllygook (leaving varying spaced gaps all along the coiled wire)
6. If the wick is too big or too tight in the coil it will cause shorts/ hot spots and you will have a hard time removing and putting it back in without dinging your coils.
7. If the wick is too loose it can drop to the bottom of the tank and/or cause shorts due to the coil to wick gap.
8. Put your wick in all the way to the bottom and back it off 1-2mm.
9. Dry burn and check for even heating. A good coil will heat from the center coils first then out to the edge coils.
I have to keep my tank fill screw off to avoid vapor-lock.
If all done properly You will get plumes of vapor, no metallic taste, but very little flavor.
It takes a tank or two for the wick to break in and flavor to come through like a champ.
If you taste metal, you either have a wicking problem or a hot spot.
I did have to learn the "Genny tilt".
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anybody still having probs with hotspots on the top coil should try this, just loosen the tension on the nuts a little, sounds weird but honestly works....while washers will work as well anyone looking for a temp solution tried this after watching a vid of rip trippers on the did and it works everytime.
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