Help! Ohm, watts, amps help me!

[nathan.olson]

Hey everyone, I know some about ohms and watts and how it comes in to play with a rda, rba. I just don't understand where amps comes in to play. Anyways I want to start rebuilding coils, I have done tons of research. I just need some human to help me in what I need not the topic


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[Rabbit Slayer]

 

[CRizzo7]

Hey everyone, I know some about ohms and watts and how it comes in to play with a rda, rba. I just don't understand where amps comes in to play. Anyways I want to start rebuilding coils, I have done tons of research. I just need some human to help me in what I need not the topic


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Download the app called "Ohm's Law" from the App Store. You provide two variables and it calculates the rest. Before firing any coil, make sure to throw the build on an ohm meter prior. Be safe!

 

[IMFire3605]

Amps, Ohms, Voltage, and Wattage are all key factors relating to "Ohm's Law", change one variable, the other 3 change in relation to it. Amps are really affected the most by Ohms "resistance" and actual ending power being produced "Wattage". A 1.0ohm coil resistance at 4.2v = 4.2Amps, 0.5ohm coil resistance at 4.2v = 8.4amps, 0.25ohm coils resistance at 4.2v= 16.8amps (see how the relation comes into play here??)

Building coils, always use an Ohm's law calculator to check what your coil will request, excellent online vaping calculation set of tools can be found here
Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

 

[Robert Cromwell]

Use a regulated mod, much safer and safeguards are built in. You can check you ohms on a regulated mod.
And some like the VTC mini will even display the amps you are drawing.
Do NOT use a mech mod until you are comfortable with battery safety and understand ohms, amps, etc.

 

[nathan.olson]

Is the istick 20w a safe mod? I understand it is a bit low that's partly why I am re building and soon possibly to upgrade


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[vape0351]

Amps are the most important part! If your coils measure too low ohms and your battery doesn't have a high enough amp rating it could be really dangerous! Which is why people are recommending you stick with regulated mods, they do the thinking for you and won't fire if it's not within safety tolerances. Read this: The Simple Way To Not Blow A Hole In Your Face...A My Vape Guide.
and this: Checking Your Battery Voltage And Resistance Values Using A Multimeter...A My Vape Guide.
and don't use a mech until you get it

 

[CRizzo7]

Amps are the most important part! If your coils measure too low ohms and your battery doesn't have a high enough amp rating it could be really dangerous! Which is why people are recommending you stick with regulated mods, they do the thinking for you and won't fire if it's not within safety tolerances. Read this: The Simple Way To Not Blow A Hole In Your Face...A My Vape Guide.
and this: Checking Your Battery Voltage And Resistance Values Using A Multimeter...A My Vape Guide.
and don't use a mech until you get it

Too bad the fella from Colorado didn't see that article...too soon? Lol

 

[bacc.vap]

Is the istick 20w a safe mod? I understand it is a bit low that's partly why I am re building and soon possibly to upgrade


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I haven't owned one, but checked out the comments on some of the vendors websites. Most people seem to be happy with theirs. Keep in mind it won't fire a coil below one ohm, and some have said their 510 threads have worn out rather quickly. Don't know, maybe this problem has been fixed.

 

[Canadian_Vaper]

Basic calculator to help you understand the concept and determine the amps.
Watts/Volts/Amps/Ohms conversion calculator
use steam engine to find the build/ohm's you want though..

 

[vape0351]

Too bad the fella from Colorado didn't see that article...too soon? Lol

Ha yeah a little research goes a long way, especially where battery safety is concerned. If only he'd gotten himself some nice 25R's or HB2'S instead of what I'm sure was some terrible ****FIRE rewrap

 

[CRizzo7]

Ha yeah a little research goes a long way, especially where battery safety is concerned. If only he'd gotten himself some nice 25R's or HB2'S instead of what I'm sure was some terrible ****FIRE rewrap

I sure wish we could've seen what cell was inside there, probably a damn flashlight battery! Lol

 

[Canadian_Vaper]

I sure wish we could've seen what cell was inside there, probably a damn flashlight battery! Lol

LMAO! I've been using VTC4's in my flashlights forever lol, even before I started vaping To be fair though my flashlights run around 75 watts though '

VTC4's are aging though, just ordered a bunch of HE4's to replace them.

 

[evan le'garde]

Hey everyone, I know some about ohms and watts and how it comes in to play with a rda, rba. I just don't understand where amps comes in to play. Anyways I want to start rebuilding coils, I have done tons of research. I just need some human to help me in what I need not the topic


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It really does actually come down to the batteries you use for vaping. Buying batteries from a reputable vendor would be a good place to start.

My best suggestion would be to purchase a few Sony 18650 VTC4 batteries. These batteries should be able to handle anything you throw at them. You just have to make sure you buy authentic VTC4's and not re-wrapped second hand duds from ebay or some place. Their pulse discharge rating is approximately 30 amps (pulse meaning being discharged for a few seconds at a time eg : vaping). Their continuous discharge rating is approximately 20 amps (Continuous meaning if they were discharged say in a torch for a prolonged lenght of time).

Sub ohm'ing is what these particular Sony batteries are best for in the vaping world (they have the most capacity). Vapers will use thick wire to build simple sub ohm coils. If this is the case then when the coils are being fired up, and because the wire is thick, the coils will take a few seconds more than thinner wire to become hot enough to vapourize the liquid, this is what vapers refer to as "Ramp up time". In the case of using thinner wire to build coils above about 1 ohm not as many amps and watts are needed because the ramp up time is barely a second or two. The more watts you use with thick wire the quicker the ramp up time will be (the thicker the wire the more watts and amps needed- the more coils used the more watts and amps needed). So, the idea is to use enough watts to make a coil built with thick wire heat up as quickly as a coil built with thin wire would. And more watts requires more amps.

The sony 18650 VTC4 battery is perfect for this application.

I don't think i could have made it any simpler for a layman. Plus i don't have the knowhow to explain it any other way.

 

[Bunnykiller]

the amp rating of a battery is kinda like the RPM rating for an engine.... you dont want to have the engine running all the time in the redline zone...

 

[xiios]

Use a regulated mod, much safer and safeguards are built in. You can check you ohms on a regulated mod.
And some like the VTC mini will even display the amps you are drawing.
Do NOT use a mech mod until you are comfortable with battery safety and understand ohms, amps, etc.

On a regulated mod the ohms are of no high importance but seeing the resistance is nice of course as it helps in detecting a loose connection for example. On VTC Mini the amps unfortunately don't represent the input current drawn from battery, but output current fed into the coil instead. On regulated devices like Mini it is important to keep wattage below the threshold that makes input amperage exceed battery rate when battery voltage falls close to cut-off limit.

In case of a battery with 20A continuous discharge rate the calculation can be made like this: into the Ohm's law calculator enter max. continuous discharge rate and cut-off voltage, 20A and 3.2V respectively. Out comes the corresponding wattage, 64W, which is what the battery can take. As regulated devices are about 90% effective account for that too. 90% of 64 is 57.6 (on paper: 64/10=6.4, 6.4*9=57.6). So this is the max. wattage to use on a regulated mod with 90% efficiency and a 20A battery if one wants to stay under the max. continuous discharge rate at all times. I for one do because I tend to take long hits (close to 10 sec cut-off) with only short pauses in between.

The VTC Mini and many other regulated devices useing single battery can output 75W. If I have it right, at max. wattage it would mean (75/9)*10 = 83.3W for the battery -- which results in 19.8A-26A current while the cell discharges from 4.2-3.2V. I don't want to go there.

 

[xiios]

.

 

[Toronnah]

Think of electricity like water from a faucet.

Amps is the volume of water coming out.
Volts is the pressure of the water (think psi)
Amperes x volts is watts, the "impact" if you will of the water coming out of the faucet and causing your dish soap to foam.

Ohms are resistance. If the opening on the faucet or the supply pipe are narrow, the pressure, volts, will increase.

If you keep the pressure the same, the volume, amps, will decrease aka low flow shower head. Same pressure, less water.

 

[nathan.olson]

My understanding before this was that watts and volts were how much power being put on the coil just in different ways to read. Is that correct?


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[IMFire3605]

My understanding before this was that watts and volts were how much power being put on the coil just in different ways to read. Is that correct?

Wattage is the end result as a calculation formula of Ohm's Law, Voltage X Voltage/Resistance, so in actuality, a Variable Wattage Device is really just another method of Variable Voltage, only a little more precise fine tuning of voltage output. They shake hands in a very balanced manner. So you are pretty much correct in your assumption, Variable Voltage I generally use the analogy of a stick shift stock car you have to adjust the throttle and gearing manually, Variable Wattage is more akin to the same model stock car with an automatic transmission and cruise control, Voltage = Throttle, Wattage = End Resulting Set Speed Limit.