Yes, I tap the holes. I use a little vg on the tap for lubrication and it taps real easy. I believe that tapping the hole will make a better seal.
- Status
The vg for lubrication is brilliant. I will do that.
Now I can't wait for my grommets and o-rings to arrive. I was surprised how fast I got the poly tubing from McMaster.
Now I can't wait for my grommets and o-rings to arrive. I was surprised how fast I got the poly tubing from McMaster.
When I drill the hole, I have a drill press, I use a v block I made out of wood to help hold the tube. I use a wood dowel inserted into the tube for support. I first use a finish nail to make a small hole in the tube so the drill gets a starting hole and won't walk off. This pic is the v block I made. Good luck.
View attachment 75146
View attachment 75146
I use these as fill ports. Work good,
http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce...ywqdm?refinement=4294959341&searchandizedOk=N
http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce...ywqdm?refinement=4294959341&searchandizedOk=N
How did you get the syringe tube to be "blank" and not have measurement markings on it?
Looks nice, BTW.
It seems you have 4/40 screws and a 6/32 tap (?), which don't match up.
The hardware store near me has 4/40 socket head cap screws in stainless steel, which should look really nice and not be affected by juice.
Yeah, I clicked on the wrong socket head screw for the post. I was only able to get 7 of those screws and agree the stainless or nylon would be preferable so will look for those.
I got the P slip joint washers today. Alas, they are too small for the 5/8" id tubing. They seem to measure about 1/2" id. So I ordered a bit of 1/2" id polypropylene tubing from McMasters to experiment further. Here's the reason I think this might work.
With the Q slip joint washer, the carto was a nice snug fit inside before the washer was pushed into the tube. It was secure, but you could push the carto in and out with just a little force, PERFECT! When the washer gets pushed in the hole, it reduced the size of the hole for the carto, resulting in a very tight hole, too tight for me, because I like easy peasy filling and hot switching cartos. The hole is 9/32".
Now, with the P slip joint washer, the hole for the carto is 11/32", almost tight enough on its own, could be a smidge tighter. It looks like this washer will be a tight fit in 1/2" id tubing. If I am correct, when the washer is pushed into the tube, this will reduce the size of the cart hole just enough for it to hold tightly and stay put, but not so, so tightly, like the Q slip joint washer.
The only downside is that by using 1/2" id tube, the tank will hold a bit less juice, but I'm okay with that. If this works, the big plus for me is that this tank will fit in my RSM Destroyer, which is a mod that imbeds the tank inside the top.
As far as material, I do not belive it is rubber, vinyl perhaps, has no discernible smell of rubber.
I hope this makes sense. This will be my last stitch effort. I'll keep you posted.
With the Q slip joint washer, the carto was a nice snug fit inside before the washer was pushed into the tube. It was secure, but you could push the carto in and out with just a little force, PERFECT! When the washer gets pushed in the hole, it reduced the size of the hole for the carto, resulting in a very tight hole, too tight for me, because I like easy peasy filling and hot switching cartos. The hole is 9/32".
Now, with the P slip joint washer, the hole for the carto is 11/32", almost tight enough on its own, could be a smidge tighter. It looks like this washer will be a tight fit in 1/2" id tubing. If I am correct, when the washer is pushed into the tube, this will reduce the size of the cart hole just enough for it to hold tightly and stay put, but not so, so tightly, like the Q slip joint washer.
The only downside is that by using 1/2" id tube, the tank will hold a bit less juice, but I'm okay with that. If this works, the big plus for me is that this tank will fit in my RSM Destroyer, which is a mod that imbeds the tank inside the top.
As far as material, I do not belive it is rubber, vinyl perhaps, has no discernible smell of rubber.
I hope this makes sense. This will be my last stitch effort. I'll keep you posted.
You know, if you drill a filling port into the tube, tap it and plug it with a stainless or nylon screw, your carto can be as tight as it needs. This also helps with the air pressure thing.
I realize not everybody likes the screws, though.
I have a liquinator and two Mom & Pop Mini-subs with the screws and like the mini-subs with the screws better because they are so easy to insert and remove juice with a syringe, so I just ordered 100 6/32 X 1/4" stainless screws. I sure hope it works.
Good luck with those caps my4jewels, I think if they fit, they will be a lot better than grommets.
I realize not everybody likes the screws, though.
I have a liquinator and two Mom & Pop Mini-subs with the screws and like the mini-subs with the screws better because they are so easy to insert and remove juice with a syringe, so I just ordered 100 6/32 X 1/4" stainless screws. I sure hope it works.
Good luck with those caps my4jewels, I think if they fit, they will be a lot better than grommets.
Thanks! I didn't think that would work without damaging the plastic.
Not that this specifically applies to our application. Just something to think about. If it is happening in labware think of the less stringent standards used in making other things.
Plastic labware contaminant risk
Plastic labware contaminant risk
Thank you. I had read something about this a couple of weeks ago posted by someone else. Since I no longer smoke cigarettes, and I have eliminated 1000's of chemicals and poisons from entering my body, I'll take my chances with something that has not been proven to be harmful in such quanitites as we "may" get from our use...
The P slip joint washer and 1/2" tubing had the same result. When the washer was pushed into the tube the hole for the carto really tightened up. It works, but not with the results I had hoped for. I will be hostessing a coop soon for the new DCTanks with polypropylene in the clear. Keep your eyes open for it in the pif coop section. No pm's about it yet, please.
I was wondering how you cut the tubing. I have tried
but it doesn't always cut straight.
I have tried
but it squeezes the tubing, and doesn't cut it.
I have tried
but it makes the edges rough. I don't know how to smooth them down (as sandpaper doesn't work as good on polypropylene as it does on polycarbonate).
Any suggestions?
but it doesn't always cut straight.
I have tried
but it squeezes the tubing, and doesn't cut it.
I have tried
but it makes the edges rough. I don't know how to smooth them down (as sandpaper doesn't work as good on polypropylene as it does on polycarbonate).
Any suggestions?
For cutting, use item # 2 and find some doweling or something round, that is the size of the ID of the tubing for support.
I agree with oplholik. You need to put some sort of dowel inside of the tube so that it holds its round shape while you cut it. I use a wooden dowel; you want it to fit as tightly inside the tube as you can for a nice clean cut. It's really quite simple... 
With the flexible polypropylene?I use this. I don't use a dowel and get a good cut.
I used a tight fitting dowel, and it works perfectly! I even marked my dowel. I push until I reach my first mark, and have the other mark where I cut (1 3/16" for Boge and 1 9/16" for xl cartos).
If it's working fot you, lowboy, that's great. I have not had good luck at all not using a dowel with any type of tubing, polycarbonate or polypropylene. If you're cutting down the DCTanks, you really need a dowel inside because it has a much thinner wall.
- Status
